scholarly journals SHOALING OF NONLINEAR INTERNAL WAVES ON A UNIFORMLY SLOPING BEACH

2012 ◽  
Vol 1 (33) ◽  
pp. 72 ◽  
Author(s):  
Kei Yamashita ◽  
Taro Kakinuma ◽  
Keisuke Nakayama

The internal waves in the two-layer systems have been numerically simulated by solving the set of nonlinear equations in consideration of both strong nonlinearity and strong dispersion of waves. After the comparison between the numerical results and the BO solitons, as well as the experimental data, the internal waves propagating over the uniformly sloping beach are simulated including the cases of the mild and long slopes. The internal waves show remarkable shoaling after the interface touches the critical level. In the lower layer, the horizontal velocity becomes larger than the local linear celerity of internal waves in shallow water just before the crest peak and the position is defined as the wave-breaking point when the ratio of nonlinear parameter to beach slope is large. The ratio of initial wave height to wave-breaking depth becomes larger as the slope is milder and the wave nonlinearity is stronger. The wave height does not increase so much before wave-breaking on the mildest slope.

2011 ◽  
Vol 1 (32) ◽  
pp. 24
Author(s):  
Kei Yamashita ◽  
Taro Kakinuma ◽  
Keisuke Nakayama

A set of nonlinear surface/internal-wave equations, which have been derived on the basis of the variational principle without any assumptions concerning wave nonlinearity and dispersion, is applied to compare numerical results with experimental data of surface/internal waves propagating through a shallow- or a deep-water region in a tank. Internal waves propagating over a submerged breakwater or a uniformly sloping beach are also simulated. The internal progressive wave shows remarkable shoaling when the interface reaches the critical level, after which physical variables including wave celerity become unstable near the wave-breaking point. In the case of the internal-wave trough reflecting at the vertical wall, the vertical velocities of water particles in the vicinity of the interface are different from that of the moving interface at the wall near the wave breaking, which means that the kinematic boundary condition on the interface of trough has been unsatisfied.


Author(s):  
Taro Kakinuma ◽  
Naoto Ochi ◽  
Kei Yamashita ◽  
Keisuke Nakayama

The internal waves propagating from the deep to shallow, and the shallow to deep, areas in the two-layer fluid systems, have been numerically simulated by solving the set of nonlinear equations, based on the variational principle in consideration of both the strong nonlinearity and strong dispersion of internal waves. The incident wave in the deep area, is the BO-type downward convex internal wave, which is the numerical solution obtained for the present fundamental equations. In the cases where the interface elevation is below, or equal to, the critical level in the shallow area, the disintegration of the internal waves occurs remarkably, leading to a long wave train. The lowest elevation of the interface, increases after its gradual decrease in the shallow area, where the interface is above the critical level, while the lowest elevation of the interface, increases through the internal-wave propagation in the shallow area, where the interface elevation is below, or equal to, the critical level, after its steep decrease around the boundary between the area over the upslope, and the shallow region.


1976 ◽  
Vol 1 (15) ◽  
pp. 32 ◽  
Author(s):  
Toru Sawaragi ◽  
Koichiro Iwata

By wave breaking, an incident monocromatic wave is transformed to a wave composed of its harmonic frequency waves inside a surf zone. Based on a dimensional consideration, the "-1 power law ", the "-2 power law ", the "-2/3 power law " and the "-1/2 power law " on the wave height spectrum ,H(f), are derived as sorts of equilibrium spectra. These spectra except"-l/2 power law" are shown to agree with experimental data.


1966 ◽  
Vol 1 (10) ◽  
pp. 14 ◽  
Author(s):  
Kiyoshi Horikawa ◽  
Chin-Tong Kuo

The wave transformation inside surf zone is treated analytically m this paper under the several appropriate assumptions. The theoretical curves computed numerically have a consistant agreement with the experimental data in the case of wave transformation on a horizontal bottom. On the other hand, m the case of wave transformation on a uniformly sloping beach, the analytical treatment seems to be inadequate to clarify the actual phenomena. Besides them the numerous data on wave height attenuation and others are presented m the graphical forms.


2001 ◽  
Vol 428 ◽  
pp. 349-386 ◽  
Author(s):  
E. J. STRANG ◽  
H. J. S. FERNANDO

The results of a laboratory experiment designed to study turbulent entrainment at sheared density interfaces are described. A stratified shear layer, across which a velocity difference ΔU and buoyancy difference Δb is imposed, separates a lighter upper turbulent layer of depth D from a quiescent, deep lower layer which is either homogeneous (two-layer case) or linearly stratified with a buoyancy frequency N (linearly stratified case). In the parameter ranges investigated the flow is mainly determined by two parameters: the bulk Richardson number RiB = ΔbD/ΔU2 and the frequency ratio fN = ND=ΔU.When RiB > 1.5, there is a growing significance of buoyancy effects upon the entrainment process; it is observed that interfacial instabilities locally mix heavy and light fluid layers, and thus facilitate the less energetic mixed-layer turbulent eddies in scouring the interface and lifting partially mixed fluid. The nature of the instability is dependent on RiB, or a related parameter, the local gradient Richardson number Rig = N2L/ (∂u/∂z)2, where NL is the local buoyancy frequency, u is the local streamwise velocity and z is the vertical coordinate. The transition from the Kelvin–Helmholtz (K-H) instability dominated regime to a second shear instability, namely growing Hölmböe waves, occurs through a transitional regime 3.2 < RiB < 5.8. The K-H activity completely subsided beyond RiB ∼ 5 or Rig ∼ 1. The transition period 3.2 < RiB < 5 was characterized by the presence of both K-H billows and wave-like features, interacting with each other while breaking and causing intense mixing. The flux Richardson number Rif or the mixing efficiency peaked during this transition period, with a maximum of Rif ∼ 0.4 at RiB ∼ 5 or Rig ∼ 1. The interface at 5 < RiB < 5.8 was dominated by ‘asymmetric’ interfacial waves, which gradually transitioned to (symmetric) Hölmböe waves at RiB > 5:8.Laser-induced fluorescence measurements of both the interfacial buoyancy flux and the entrainment rate showed a large disparity (as large as 50%) between the two-layer and the linearly stratified cases in the range 1.5 < RiB < 5. In particular, the buoyancy flux (and the entrainment rate) was higher when internal waves were not permitted to propagate into the deep layer, in which case more energy was available for interfacial mixing. When the lower layer was linearly stratified, the internal waves appeared to be excited by an ‘interfacial swelling’ phenomenon, characterized by the recurrence of groups or packets of K-H billows, their degeneration into turbulence and subsequent mixing, interfacial thickening and scouring of the thickened interface by turbulent eddies.Estimation of the turbulent kinetic energy (TKE) budget in the interfacial zone for the two-layer case based on the parameter α, where α = (−B + ε)/P, indicated an approximate balance (α ∼ 1) between the shear production P, buoyancy flux B and the dissipation rate ε, except in the range RiB < 5 where K-H driven mixing was active.


2010 ◽  
Vol 67 (2) ◽  
pp. 434-451 ◽  
Author(s):  
Sukyoung Lee

Abstract A two-layer quasigeostrophic model is used to study the equilibration of baroclinic waves. In this model, if the background flow is relaxed toward a jetlike profile, a finite-amplitude baroclinic wave solution can be realized in both supercritical and subcritical regions of the model’s parameter space. Analyses of the model equations and numerical model calculations indicate that the finite-amplitude wave equilibration hinges on the breaking of Rossby waves before they reach their critical latitude. This “jetward” wave breaking results in an increase in the upper-layer wave generation and a reduction in the vertical phase tilt. This change in the phase tilt has a substantial impact on the Ekman pumping, as it weakens the damping on the lower-layer wave for some parameter settings and enables the Ekman pumping to serve as a source of wave growth at other settings. Together, these processes can account for the O(1)-amplitude wave equilibration. From a potential vorticity (PV) perspective, the wave breaking reduces the meridional scale of the upper-layer eddy PV flux, which destabilizes the mean flow. This is followed by a strengthening of the lower-layer eddy PV flux, which weakens the lower-layer PV gradient and constrains the growth of the lower-layer eddy PV. The same jetward wave breaking focuses the upper-layer PV flux toward the jet center where the upper-layer PV gradient is greatest. This results in an intensification of the upper-layer eddy PV relative to lower-layer eddy PV. Because of this large ratio, the upper-layer eddy PV plays the primary role in inducing the upper- and lower-layer eddy streamfunction fields, decreasing the vertical phase tilt. As a result, the Ekman pumping on the eddies is weakened, and for some parameter settings the Ekman pumping can even act as a wave source, contributing toward O(1)-amplitude wave equilibration. By reducing the horizontal shear of the zonal wind, the same wave breaking process weakens the barotropic decay, which also contributes to the wave amplification.


2012 ◽  
Vol 490-495 ◽  
pp. 3405-3409
Author(s):  
Chun Liu Li ◽  
Yun Peng Zhao

To study motion range changes with wave condition and motion relationship between cages, physical model experiments were carried out. The authors designed 2 models of composite-type sea cages. Experimental data obtained by the CCD data acquisition system. The experiment results showed that 1.in the same period, horizontal motion range,vertical motion range and inclination changes of float collar increase with wave height; 2.In the same wave height, horizontal motion range of the float collar increases with period; 3.The laws between vertical motion and period are not obvious 4.The laws between inclination changes and period are not obvious 5.Motion range of the first cage along the direction of waves is less than other cages.


2014 ◽  
Vol 638-640 ◽  
pp. 1769-1777
Author(s):  
Zi Tong Yan ◽  
Liang Qiu Cheng ◽  
Feng Yi ◽  
Tai Zhong Chen ◽  
Han Sun ◽  
...  

Internal waves will break in the process of communication, the broken will make water in upper and lower mixing, which has significant influence on the hydrodynamic and layered characteristics of density stratification of the water. In order to reveal the propagation of internal solitary waves, a 3d numerical wave flume was built. The research of the propagation of internal solitary waves in the regular topography and broken on slopes was based on FLUENT. Comparing the fragmentation degree of different slope angle and researching the energy dissipation of the wave propagation process , which are supposed to successfully match the results with the experiment results, can provide new methods and means for the further study of internal wave breaking characteristics and the improvement of ecological environment of water bodies.


2011 ◽  
Vol 1 (32) ◽  
pp. 15
Author(s):  
Yang-Yih Chen ◽  
Meng-Syue Li ◽  
Hung-Chu Hsu ◽  
Ying-Pin Lin

In this paper, a new third-order Lagrangian asymptotic solution describing nonlinear water wave propagation on the surface of a uniform sloping bottom is presented. The model is formulated in the Lagrangian variables and we use a two-parameter perturbation method to develop a new mathematical derivation. The particle trajectories, wave pressure and Lagrangian velocity potential are obtained as a function of the nonlinear wave steepness  and the bottom slope  perturbed to third order. The analytical solution in Lagrangian form satisfies state of the normal pressure at the free surface. The condition of the conservation of mass flux is examined in detail for the first time. The two important properties in Lagrangian coordinates, Lagrangian wave frequency and Lagrangian mean level, are included in the third-order solution. The solution can also be used to estimate the mean return current for waves progressing over the sloping bottom. The Lagrangian solution untangle the description of the features of wave shoaling in the direction of wave propagation from deep to shallow water, as well as the process of successive deformation of a wave profile and water particle trajectories leading to wave breaking. The proposed model has proved to be capable of a better description of non-linear wave effects than the corresponding approximation of the same order derived by using the Eulerian description. The proposed solution has also been used to determine the wave shoaling process, and the comparisons between the experimental and theoretical results are presented in Fig.1a~1b. In addition, the basic wave-breaking criterion, namely the kinematical Stokes stability condition, has been investigated. The comparisons between the present theory, empirical formula of Goda (2004) and the experiments made by Iwagali et al.(1974), Deo et al.(2003) and Tsai et al.(2005) for the breaking index(Hb/L0) versus the relative water depth(d0/L0) under two different bottom slopes are depicted in Figs 2a~2b. It is found that the theoretical breaking index is well agreement with the experimental results for three bottom slopes. However,for steep slope of 1/3 shown in Fig 2b, the result of Goda‘s empirical formula gives a larger value in comparison with the experimental data and the present theory. Some of empirical formulas presented the breaking wave height in terms of deepwater wave condition, such as in Sunamura (1983) and in Rattanapitikon and Shibayama(2000). Base on the results depicted in Fig. 3a~3b, it showed that the theoretical results are in good agreement with the experimental data (Iwagali et al. 1974, Deo et al.2003 and Tsai et al. 2005) than the empirical formulas. The empirical formula of Sunamura (1983) always predicts an overestimation value.


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