scholarly journals EFFECTS OF TIDE ON WAVES IN THE OUTER SEINE ESTUARY AND THE HARBOR OF LE HAVRE

2012 ◽  
Vol 1 (33) ◽  
pp. 47
Author(s):  
Nicolas Guillou ◽  
Georges Chapalain
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
High Tide ◽  
Numerical Procedure ◽  
Water Levels ◽  
Seine Estuary ◽  
Topographic Features ◽  
Southern Central ◽  
Spatio Temporal ◽  
Ambient Currents ◽  
Induced Changes

The present study examines the influences of time-varying tide-induced water depths and currents on waves in the outer Seine estuary (southern central English Channel) and their penetration in the harbor of Le Havre and its new infrastructures Port 2000. The investigation is based on a numerical procedure which links regional phase-averaged wave modules with a local phase-resolving wave module within Port 2000 harbor. Required spatio-temporal evolutions of tidal free-surface elevation and current are computed by circulation modules. Numerical results of wave height are compared with field data collected at three wave buoys in the access harbor channel and its inner basin. Predictions exhibit a local increase (up to 30 %) of wave height induced by current refraction at slack tide in the access harbor channel. Respective mappings of the wave height modified by the tide, the water levels alone and the currents alone confirm this finding. The effect of currents on waves are pronounced along the southern breakwater of Port 2000 harbor and in the vicinity of coastal topographic features of the outer Seine estuary. Ultimate predictions of wave propagation within Port 2000 basin exhibit, however, the negligible direct influence of local ambient currents on wave height. Observed-semidiurnal wave-height variations in the inner basin are thus mainly associated with the propagation of the outer tide-induced modulation. Mappings of maximum wave-height within harbor basin reveal an increased exposition of the northern wharves at high tide and the southern western breakwater at low tide in relation to current-induced changes in the approaching-waves direction.

scholarly journals Environmental controls on surf zone injuries on high-energy beaches

2019 ◽  
Vol 19 (10) ◽  
pp. 2183-2205 ◽  
Author(s):  
Bruno Castelle ◽  
Tim Scott ◽  
Rob Brander ◽  
Jak McCarroll ◽  
Arthur Robinet ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
High Tide ◽  
High Energy ◽  
Water Levels ◽  
Small Scale ◽  
Beach Morphology ◽  
Environmental Controls ◽  
Flow Activity ◽  
Incident Waves

Abstract. The two primary causes of surf zone injuries (SZIs) worldwide, including fatal drowning and severe spinal injuries, are rip currents (rips) and shore-break waves. SZIs also result from surfing and bodyboarding activity. In this paper we address the primary environmental controls on SZIs along the high-energy meso–macro-tidal surf beach coast of southwestern France. A total of 2523 SZIs recorded by lifeguards over 186 sample days during the summers of 2007, 2009 and 2015 were combined with measured and/or hindcast weather, wave, tide, and beach morphology data. All SZIs occurred disproportionately on warm sunny days with low wind, likely because of increased beachgoer numbers and hazard exposure. Relationships were strongest for shore-break- and rip-related SZIs and weakest for surfing-related SZIs, the latter being also unaffected by tidal stage or range. Therefore, the analysis focused on bathers. More shore-break-related SZIs occur during shore-normal incident waves with average to below-average wave height (significant wave height, Hs = 0.75–1.5 m) and around higher water levels and large tide ranges when waves break on the steepest section of the beach. In contrast, more rip-related drownings occur near neap low tide, coinciding with maximised channel rip flow activity, under shore-normal incident waves with Hs >1.25 m and mean wave periods longer than 5 s. Additional drowning incidents occurred at spring high tide, presumably due to small-scale swash rips. The composite wave and tide parameters proposed by Scott et al. (2014) are key controlling factors determining SZI occurrence, although the risk ranges are not necessarily transferable to all sites. Summer beach and surf zone morphology is interannually highly variable, which is critical to SZI patterns. The upper beach slope can vary from 0.06 to 0.18 between summers, resulting in low and high shore-break-related SZIs, respectively. Summers with coast-wide highly (weakly) developed rip channels also result in widespread (scarce) rip-related drowning incidents. With life risk defined in terms of the number of people exposed to life threatening hazards at a beach, the ability of morphodynamic models to simulate primary beach morphology characteristics a few weeks or months in advance is therefore of paramount importance for predicting the primary surf zone life risks along this coast.

scholarly journals Environmental controls on surf zone injuries on high-energy beaches

2019 ◽  
Author(s):  
Bruno Castelle ◽  
Tim Scott ◽  
Rob Brander ◽  
Jak McCarroll ◽  
Arthur Robinet ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
High Tide ◽  
High Energy ◽  
Water Levels ◽  
Small Scale ◽  
Beach Morphology ◽  
Environmental Controls ◽  
Flow Activity ◽  
Incident Waves

Abstract. The two primary causes of surf zone injuries (SZIs) worldwide, including fatal drowning and severe spinal injuries, are rip currents (rips) and shore-break waves. SZIs also result from surfing and body boarding activity. In this paper we address the primary environmental controls on SZIs along the high-energy meso-macrotidal surf beach coast of SW France. A total of 2523 SZIs recorded by lifeguards over 186 sample days during the summers of 2007, 2009 and 2015 were combined with measured and/or hindcast weather, wave, tide and beach morphology data. All SZIs occurred disproportionately on warm sunny days with low wind likely because of increased beachgoer numbers and hazard exposure. Relationships were strongest for shore break and rip related SZIs and weakest for surfing related SZIs, the latter being also unaffected by tidal stage or range. Therefore the analysis focussed on bathers. Shore-break related SZIs disproportionately occur during shore-normal incident waves with average to below-average wave height (significant wave height Hs = 0.75–1.5 m) and around higher water levels and large tide range when waves break on the steepest section of the beach. In contrast, rip related drownings occur disproportionally near neap low tide, coinciding with maximized channel rip flow activity, under shore-normal incident waves with Hs > 1.25 m and periods mean wave period longer than 5 s. Additional drowning incidents occurred at spring high tide, presumably due to small-scale swash rips. The composite wave and tide parameters proposed by Scott et al. (2014) are key controlling factors determining SZI occurrence, although the risk ranges are not necessarily transferable to all sites. Summer beach and surf zone morphology is highly interannually variable, which is critical to SZI patterns. The upper beach slope can vary from 0.06 to 0.18 between summers, resulting in low and high shore-break related SZIs, respectively. Summers with coast-wide highly (weakly) developed rip channels also result in widespread (scarce) rip related drowning incidents. With life risk defined in terms of the number of people exposed to life threatening hazards at a beach, the ability of morphodynamic models to simulate primary beach morphology characteristics a few weeks/months in advance is therefore of paramount importance to predict the primary surf-zone life risks along this coast.

Vegetation, hydrology, and development of a coastal mire in Hokkaido, Japan, affected by flooding and tephra deposition

2001 ◽  
Vol 79 (3) ◽  
pp. 341-361 ◽  
Author(s):  
Stefan Hotes ◽  
Peter Poschlod ◽  
Hiroshige Sakai ◽  
Takashi Inoue
Keyword(s):  
Sea Water ◽  
Ionic Composition ◽  
Plant Macrofossils ◽  
Vegetation Pattern ◽  
Water Levels ◽  
Myrica Gale ◽  
Mineral Deposition ◽  
Volcanic Ejecta ◽  
Induced Changes ◽  
Flooding Events

Mires in coastal lowlands in Hokkaido, northern Japan, have repeatedly been affected by flooding events and tephra (aerially transported volcanic ejecta) deposition during their development. Vegetation, hydrology, and stratigraphy of Kiritappu Mire in eastern Hokkaido were investigated along two transects and are discussed in relation to disturbance by mineral deposition. The vegetation pattern showed little relation to past geologic events. Five plant communities, two of which (A and C) could be further divided into subgroups, were distinguished (A, Alnus japonica - Spiraea salicifolia community; B, Sasa chartacea community; C, Myrica gale var. tomentosa - Sphagnum fuscum community; D, Carex lyngbyei community; E, Carex subspathacea - Aster tripolium community). Water levels, pH, electric conductivity, and ionic composition of groundwater and surface water were measured in communities A-C. Mean water levels were similar in communities A and C; in community B, it was lower. The pH was higher in community A than in communities B and C. Ion concentrations were influenced by sea water at some sites. Plant macrofossils and ash contents of 31 cores were analysed. Sedge roots were the dominant peat component, often mixed with remains of Phragmites australis, Sphagnum spp., and Polytrichum juniperinum var. strictum. Ash contents were high, and up to nine different mineral layers consisting of tephra, sand, silt, and clay were detected. In some cases, mineral deposition induced changes in the macrofossil composition of the peat. However, in a greater number of cases, no changes in the macrofossil composition were found at the mineral layers, and most shifts were not related to mineral deposition.Key words: mire, vegetation, hydrology, disturbance, flooding, tephra.

scholarly journals Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics Simulation of a Mariculture Platform under Waves

Water ◽  
2021 ◽  
Vol 13 (20) ◽  
pp. 2847
Author(s):  
Feng Zhang ◽  
Li Zhang ◽  
Yanshuang Xie ◽  
Zhiyuan Wang ◽  
Shaoping Shang
Keyword(s):  
Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics ◽  
Graphics Processing Units ◽  
Degrees Of Freedom ◽  
High Tide ◽  
Theoretical Data ◽  
Emergency Evacuation ◽  
Water Levels ◽  
Computational Time ◽  
Particle Hydrodynamics ◽  
Smoothed Particle

This work investigates the dynamic behaviors of floating structures with moorings using open−source software for smoothed particle hydrodynamics. DualSPHysics permits us to use graphics processing units to recreate designs that include complex calculations at high resolution with reasonable computational time. A free damped oscillation was simulated, and its results were compared with theoretical data to validate the numerical model developed. The simulated three degrees of freedom (3−DoF) (surge, heave, and pitch) of a rectangular floating box have excellent consistency with experimental data. MoorDyn was coupled with DualSPHysics to include a mooring simulation. Finally, we modelled and simulated a real mariculture platform on the coast of China. We simulated the 3−DoF of this mariculture platform under a typical annual wave and a Typhoon Dujuan wave. The motion was light and gentle under the typical annual wave but vigorous under the Typhoon Dujuan wave. Experiments at different tidal water levels revealed an earlier motion response and smaller motion range during the high tide. The results reveal that DualSPHysics combined with MoorDyn is an adaptive scheme to simulate a coupled fluid–solid–mooring system. This work provides support to disaster warning, emergency evacuation, and proper engineering design.

Short-term growth (RNA/DNA ratio) of yellow perch (Perca flavescens) in relation to environmental influences and spatio-temporal variation in a shallow fluvial lake

2007 ◽  
Vol 64 (12) ◽  
pp. 1646-1655 ◽  
Author(s):  
Hélène Glémet ◽  
Marco A Rodríguez
Keyword(s):  
Temporal Variation ◽  
Water Level ◽  
Yellow Perch ◽  
Perca Flavescens ◽  
Negative Influence ◽  
Water Levels ◽  
Short Term ◽  
Ecological Processes ◽  
Flood Pulse Concept ◽  
Spatio Temporal

Shallow fluvial lakes are heterogeneous ecosystems in which marked spatio-temporal variation renders difficult the analysis of key ecological processes, such as growth. In this study, we used generalized additive modelling of the RNA/DNA ratio, an index of short-term growth, to investigate the influence of environmental variables and spatio-temporal variation on growth of yellow perch (Perca flavescens) in Lake St. Pierre, Quebec, Canada. Temperature and water level had seemingly stronger effects on short-term growth than seasonal change or spatial variation between and along the lakeshores. Consistent with previous studies, the maximum RNA/DNA ratio was found at 20.5 °C, suggesting that our approach provides a useful tool for estimating thermal optima for growth in the field. The RNA/DNA ratio showed a positive relationship with water level, as predicted by the flood pulse concept, a finding with implications for ecosystem productivity in fluvial lakes. The RNA/DNA ratio was more variable along the north than the south shore, possibly reflecting exposure to more differentiated water masses. The negative influence of both high temperatures and low water levels on growth points to potential impacts of climatic change on fish production in shallow fluvial lakes.

Extreme waves and surges interaction with tides during storms in winter 2013/2014.

2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
Julia Rulent
Keyword(s):  
Tidal Cycle ◽  
Grid Point ◽  
High Tide ◽  
Water Levels ◽  
Extreme Waves ◽  
Near Shore ◽  
The Uk ◽  
The Waves ◽  
Tidal Stage

<p>The interaction between waves, surges and tides is one of the main drivers of coastal total water levels (TWL).  Understanding this interaction is crucial for studying high TWL formation near shore, and to do this it is important to not only evaluate how high the TWL is but also when and where it occurs.</p><p>In this study we use a high resolution (1.5 km) three-way coupled (waves-atmosphere-ocean) numerical model developed by the MetOffice (UKC4) to study coastal conditions at the UK coast during the extreme events of winter 2013, which was chosen as case study because of the amount of flooding that occurred in relation to storms and surges during this period.</p><p>For each coastal grid point the ten strongest storms of that winter, ranked by the significant wave height (Hs) magnitude, were selected. During these storm periods, the number of hours in which Hs and surges exceeded the 90<sup>th</sup> percentile of winter 2013 were evaluated considering what tidal stage they occurred on. The same was done for instances where high Hs and surges occurred simultaneously. The aim is to understand if specific areas were predominantly affected by one of the TWL components and how Hs and surges interacted with the tide. What was the spatial distribution of the waves, surges, and tides during winter 2013? Did extreme Hs and Surges occur more often over specific stages of the tidal cycle? Did they occur simultaneously? </p><p>In this study we show that during the winter 2013, Hs and surges above the 90<sup>th</sup> percentile value did occur simultaneously at all stages of the tidal cycle. They more often occurred together over the rising tide with in average 8.7% and 8.6% of instances found two and three hours before high tide. In 7.7% of cases high wave and surges also concurred at high tide.</p>

scholarly journals A NEW HYBRID APPROACH IN THE CALIBRATION OF BOUSSINESQ-TYPE WAVE BREAKING MODELS

2018 ◽  
pp. 24
Author(s):  
Joaquín Moris ◽  
Patricio Catalán ◽  
Rodrigo Cienfuegos
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Numerical Models ◽  
Hybrid Approach ◽  
Boussinesq Equations ◽  
Water Levels ◽  
Statistical Parameters ◽  
Time Space ◽  
Forcing Mechanisms ◽  
Set Up

Wave breaking is one of the main forcing mechanisms in coastal hydrodynamics, driving mean water levels and currents. Understanding its behavior is key in the goal of improving our comprehension of coastal morphodynamics variations. One way to improve our understanding is through the use of numerical models, such as phase-resolving numerical models based on the Boussinesq equations (Kirby, 2016), which are modified to include breaking by the inclusion of a breaking criteria and a dissipation mechanism. Since there is not a universal law capable of characterizing the wave breaking, the existing models must be calibrated. Traditionally, this is done by adjusting wave height profiles and other free surface statistical parameters without explicitly considering the time-space location and duration of the breaking process. Consequently, it is possible to calibrate a model that accurately represents wave elevation statistics parameters, such as wave height and wave set-up; however, it might not necessarily represent the breaking location-duration and therefore, the forcing.

scholarly journals New elevation data triple estimates of global vulnerability to sea-level rise and coastal flooding

2019 ◽  
Vol 10 (1) ◽  
Author(s):  
Scott A. Kulp ◽  
Benjamin H. Strauss
Keyword(s):  
Sea Level Rise ◽  
Sea Level ◽  
High Tide ◽  
Water Levels ◽  
Low Carbon ◽  
Digital Elevation ◽  
Elevation Data ◽  
Global Mean Sea Level ◽  
Elevation Model ◽  
Global Mean

Abstract Most estimates of global mean sea-level rise this century fall below 2 m. This quantity is comparable to the positive vertical bias of the principle digital elevation model (DEM) used to assess global and national population exposures to extreme coastal water levels, NASA’s SRTM. CoastalDEM is a new DEM utilizing neural networks to reduce SRTM error. Here we show – employing CoastalDEM—that 190 M people (150–250 M, 90% CI) currently occupy global land below projected high tide lines for 2100 under low carbon emissions, up from 110 M today, for a median increase of 80 M. These figures triple SRTM-based values. Under high emissions, CoastalDEM indicates up to 630 M people live on land below projected annual flood levels for 2100, and up to 340 M for mid-century, versus roughly 250 M at present. We estimate one billion people now occupy land less than 10 m above current high tide lines, including 230 M below 1 m.

scholarly journals Stress induced gene expression drives transient DNA methylation changes at adjacent repetitive elements

eLife ◽  
2015 ◽  
Vol 4 ◽  
Author(s):  
David Secco ◽  
Chuang Wang ◽  
Huixia Shou ◽  
Matthew D Schultz ◽  
Serge Chiarenza ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Dna Methylation ◽  
Temporal Dynamics ◽  
Phosphate Starvation ◽  
A Genome ◽  
Genome Bisulfite Sequencing ◽  
Induced Genes ◽  
Spatio Temporal ◽  
Meiotic Transmission ◽  
Species Specific ◽  
Induced Changes

Cytosine DNA methylation (mC) is a genome modification that can regulate the expression of coding and non-coding genetic elements. However, little is known about the involvement of mC in response to environmental cues. Using whole genome bisulfite sequencing to assess the spatio-temporal dynamics of mC in rice grown under phosphate starvation and recovery conditions, we identified widespread phosphate starvation-induced changes in mC, preferentially localized in transposable elements (TEs) close to highly induced genes. These changes in mC occurred after changes in nearby gene transcription, were mostly DCL3a-independent, and could partially be propagated through mitosis, however no evidence of meiotic transmission was observed. Similar analyses performed in Arabidopsis revealed a very limited effect of phosphate starvation on mC, suggesting a species-specific mechanism. Overall, this suggests that TEs in proximity to environmentally induced genes are silenced via hypermethylation, and establishes the temporal hierarchy of transcriptional and epigenomic changes in response to stress.

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