scholarly journals MODELLING INFRAGRAVITY WAVES AND CURRENTS ACROSS A FRINGING CORAL REEF

2012 ◽  
Vol 1 (33) ◽  
pp. 29 ◽  
Author(s):  
Ap Van Dongeren ◽  
Ryan Lowe ◽  
Andrew Pomeroy ◽  
Trang Minh Duong ◽  
Dano Roelvink ◽  
...  

Low-frequency (infragravity) wave dynamics on a fringing coral reef were investigated using the numerical model XBeach (Roelvink et al, 2009). First, the skill of the one-dimensional model was evaluated based on its predictions of short waves (0.04-0.2 Hz), infragravity waves (0.004-0.04 Hz) and water level measurements (tidal and wave setup) obtained during a 2009 field study at Ningaloo Reef in Western Australia. The model calibration was sensitive to friction coefficients for short waves and current / infragravity bed friction, which were assumed independent in this model study. The infragravity waves were found to be generated primarily in the surf zone through the breakpoint generation mechanism rather than through offshore forcing. The infragravity waves were strongly also modulated over the reef by tidal depth variations, primarily due to the variability in frictional dissipation rates when the total water depth over the reef varied. The results reveal that short waves dominated bottom stresses on the fore reef and near the reef crest; however, inside the lagoon, infragravity waves become increasingly dominant, accounting up to 50% of the combined bottom stresses

2013 ◽  
Vol 73 ◽  
pp. 178-190 ◽  
Author(s):  
Ap Van Dongeren ◽  
Ryan Lowe ◽  
Andrew Pomeroy ◽  
Duong Minh Trang ◽  
Dano Roelvink ◽  
...  

1993 ◽  
Vol 247 ◽  
pp. 551-588 ◽  
Author(s):  
Hemming A. Schäffer

A theoretical model for infragravity waves generated by incident short-wave groups is developed. Both normal and oblique short-wave incidence is considered. The depth-integrated conservation equations for mass and momentum averaged over a short-wave period are equivalent to the nonlinear shallow-water equations with a forcing term. In linearized form these equations combine to a second-order long-wave equation including forcing, and this is the equation we solve. The forcing term is expressed in terms of the short-wave radiation stress, and the modelling of these short waves in regard to their breaking and dynamic surf zone behaviour is essential. The model takes into account the time-varying position of the initial break point as well as a (partial) transmission of grouping into the surf zone. The former produces a dynamic set-up, while the latter is equivalent to the short-wave forcing that takes place outside the surf zone. These two effects have a mutual dependence which is modelled by a parameter K, and their relative strength is estimated. Before the waves break, the standard assumption of energy conservation leads to a variation of the radiation stress, which causes a bound, long wave, and the shoaling bottom results in a modification of the solution known for constant depth. The respective effects of this incident bound, long wave and of oscillations of the break-point position are shown to be of the same order of magnitude, and they oppose each other to some extent. The transfer of energy from the short waves to waves at infragravity frequencies is analysed using the depth-integrated conservation equation of energy. For the case of normally incident groups a semi-analytical steady-state solution for the infragravity wave motion is given for a plane beach and small primary-wave modulations. Examples of the resulting surface elevation as well as the corresponding particle velocity and mean infragravity-wave energy flux are presented. Also the sensitivity to the variation of input parameters is analysed. The model results are compared with laboratory experiments from the literature. The qualitative agreement is good, but quantitatively the model overestimates the infragravity wave activity. This can, in part, be attributed to the neglect of frictional effects.


1996 ◽  
Vol 351 (1347) ◽  
pp. 1623-1634 ◽  

Analyses of changes in frequency of the gene medionigra in colonies of the moth Panaxia dominul a, begun by R. A. Fisher, E. B. Ford and P. M. Sheppard, have long been regarded as a model study of natural selection under field conditions. Recently, their conclusions have been criticized, on the grounds that phenotypes have been improperly scored and that population structure has been misunderstood. The results are re-examined here, including recent unpublished collections. It is argued that the colonies studied are distinct populations, as usually defined, and that the results could not arise as a result of migration. Fluctuation in population size from year to year, large variance in fecundity and some features of mating behaviour probably reduce the effective number to less than half the estimated population size. Variable expressivity and consequent subjective variation in scoring, casts some doubt on earlier claims that selection fluctuates significantly from generation to generation, and on a reported case of increase in frequency from a very low starting point. However, the one natural and three artificial colonies studied are consistent in providing estimates of selection of 7 per cent or more against medionigra, despite the variation introduced by small population size and scoring difficulties. There appears to be an equilibrium at a low frequency, and the rate of approach to it suggests that the selection is frequency dependent. One artificial colony, at West Kirby on the Wirral, Merseyside, U. K. , does not show an equivalent decline. Selection cannot be as strong as indicated elsewhere, but since the population size is small some disadvantage to medionigra cannot be rejected.


Author(s):  
O. R. Sørensen ◽  
P. A. Madsen ◽  
H. A. Schäffer

2021 ◽  
Vol 11 (1) ◽  
Author(s):  
Magdalena Janc ◽  
Mariola Sliwinska-Kowalska ◽  
Piotr Politanski ◽  
Marek Kaminski ◽  
Magdalena Jozefowicz-Korczynska ◽  
...  

AbstractThe aim of our study was to validate the method of head-shake static posturography (HS-posturography) in healthy individuals and to establish the value of this novel method in the diagnostics of patients with unilateral vestibular lesion (UV). The study included 202 participants divided into two groups, one consisting of 133 patients with canal paresis CP > 19% and one of 69 healthy subjects. Participant was tested according to the standard protocol of static posturography (SP), and with head movements of 0.3 Hz (HS 40), 0.6 Hz (HS 70) in random order controlled by a metronome. HS-posturography revealed a similar repeatability and internal consistency as the standard posturography. In patients with UV, 4th condition revealed higher sensitivity (74%) and specificity (71%) in HS 40 than in the standard posturography (67%, 65% respectively) and HS 70 (54%, 70% respectively). Static posturography and HS- posturography revealed a high reliability of the testing method. The head movements added to static posturography improve the sensitivity and specificity of the method in group with vestibular impairment. The most important test for that purpose seems to be the one on unstable surface with the eyes closed, with low frequency of head movements.


2021 ◽  
Vol 11 (3) ◽  
pp. 1243
Author(s):  
Hongseok Jeong ◽  
Jeung-Hoon Lee ◽  
Yong-Hyun Kim ◽  
Hanshin Seol

The dominant underwater noise source of a ship is known to be propeller cavitation. Recently, attempts have been made to quantify the source strength using on-board pressure sensors near the propeller, as this has advantages over conventional noise measurement. In this study, a beamforming method was used to estimate the source strength of a cavitating propeller. The method was validated against a model-scale measurement in a cavitation tunnel, which showed good agreement between the measured and estimated source levels. The method was also applied to a full-scale measurement, in which the source level was measured using an external hydrophone array. The estimated source level using the hull pressure sensors showed good agreement with the measured one above 400 Hz, which shows potential for noise monitoring using on-board sensors. A parametric study was carried out to check the practicality of the method. From the results, it was shown that a sufficient recording time is required to obtain a consistent level at high frequencies. Changing the frequency resolution had little effect on the result, as long as enough data were provided for the one-third octave band conversion. The number of sensors affected the mid- to low-frequency data.


2012 ◽  
Vol 140 (8) ◽  
pp. 2628-2646 ◽  
Author(s):  
Shu-Chih Yang ◽  
Eugenia Kalnay ◽  
Brian Hunt

Abstract An ensemble Kalman filter (EnKF) is optimal only for linear models because it assumes Gaussian distributions. A new type of outer loop, different from the one used in 3D and 4D variational data assimilation (Var), is proposed for EnKF to improve its ability to handle nonlinear dynamics, especially for long assimilation windows. The idea of the “running in place” (RIP) algorithm is to increase the observation influence by reusing observations when there is strong nonlinear error growth, and thus improve the ensemble mean and perturbations within the local ensemble transform Kalman filter (LETKF) framework. The “quasi-outer-loop” (QOL) algorithm, proposed here as a simplified version of RIP, aims to improve the ensemble mean so that ensemble perturbations are centered at a more accurate state. The performances of LETKF–RIP and LETKF–QOL in the presence of nonlinearities are tested with the three-variable Lorenz model. Results show that RIP and QOL allow LETKF to use longer assimilation windows with significant improvement of the analysis accuracy during periods of high nonlinear growth. For low-frequency observations (every 25 time steps, leading to long assimilation windows), and using the optimal inflation, the standard LETKF RMS error is 0.68, whereas for QOL and RIP the RMS errors are 0.47 and 0.35, respectively. This can be compared to the best 4D-Var analysis error of 0.53, obtained by using both the optimal long assimilation windows (75 time steps) and quasi-static variational analysis.


1990 ◽  
Vol 45 (3-4) ◽  
pp. 536-540
Author(s):  
Mariusz Máckowiak ◽  
Costas Dimitropoulos

Abstract The second-order Raman phonon process for a multilevel spin system is shown to give a quadru-polar spin-lattice relaxation rate T1-1varying as T5 at very low temperatures. This relaxation rate for quadrupole spins is similar to the one discussed for a paramagnetic spin system having a multilevel ground state. The temperature dependence of T1 is discussed on the basis of some simplifying assumptions about the nature of the lattice vibrations in the Debye approximation. This type of relaxation process has been observed below 20 K in tetramethylammonium hydrogen bis-trichloroacetate for the 35Cl T1-1 . Below 20 K the NQR frequency in the same crystal reveals a T4 temperature dependence due to the induced modulations of the vibrational and librational coordinates by the low-frequency acoustic phonons.


2011 ◽  
Vol 77 (7) ◽  
pp. 2502-2507 ◽  
Author(s):  
Mete Yilmaz ◽  
Edward J. Phlips

ABSTRACTAphanizomenon ovalisporumis the only confirmed cylindrospermopsin producer identified in the United States to date. On the other hand,Cylindrospermopsis raciborskiiis a prominent feature of many lakes in Florida and other regions of the United States. To see the variation in cylindrospermopsincyrBgene adenylation domain sequences and possibly discover new cylindrospermopsin producers, we collected water samples for a 3-year period from 17 different systems in Florida. Positive amplicons were cloned and sequenced, revealing that approximately 92% of sequences wereA. ovalisporum-like (>99% identity). Interestingly, 6% of sequences were very similar (>99% identity) tocyrBsequences ofC. raciborskiifrom Australia and ofAphanizomenonsp. from Germany. Neutrality tests suggest thatA. ovalisporum-likecyrBadenylation domain sequences are under purifying selection, with abundant low-frequency polymorphisms within the population. On the other hand, when compared between species by codon-based methods, amino acids of CyrB also seem to be under purifying selection, in accordance with the one proposed amino acid thought to be activated by the CyrB adenylation domain.


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