scholarly journals INTERACTION OF IDEALIZED URBAN INFRASTRUCTURE AND LONG WAVES DURING RUN-UP AND ON-LAND FLOW PROCESS IN COASTAL REGIONS

2012 ◽  
Vol 1 (33) ◽  
pp. 18 ◽  
Author(s):  
Nils Goseberg ◽  
Torsten Schlurmann
Keyword(s):  
Shock Wave ◽  
Urban Infrastructure ◽  
Coastal Regions ◽  
Flow Process ◽  
Long Wave ◽  
Roughness Elements ◽  
Shock Wave Generation ◽  
Run Up ◽  
Sloping Beach ◽  
Good Agreement

This paper reports experimental results of long wave run-up climbing up a 1:40 sloping beach. The resulting maximum run-up is compared with analytical results and a good agreement is found for single sinusoidal waves with uniform wave period and varying amplitude. Subsequently, the interaction with macro-roughness elements on the beach is investigated for different long-shore obstruction ratios. The reduction in wave run-up is expressed by means of a nomogram relating the wave run-up without macro-roughness elements present to those cases where on-land flow is modified by macro-roughness. The presented results mainly focus on a non-staggered and non-rotated macro-roughness configuration. In addition to the run-up reduction, surface elevation profiles on the shore are presented, that address the shock wave generation when the wave tongue approaches the first row of macro-roughness elements.

scholarly journals Numerical study of periodic long wave run-up on a rigid vegetation sloping beach

2017 ◽  
Vol 121 ◽  
pp. 158-166 ◽  
Author(s):  
Jun Tang ◽  
Yongming Shen ◽  
Derek M. Causon ◽  
Ling Qian ◽  
Clive G. Mingham
Keyword(s):  
Numerical Study ◽  
Rigid Vegetation ◽  
Long Wave ◽  
Run Up ◽  
Sloping Beach

scholarly journals NUMERICAL AND EXPERIMENTAL STUDY ON TSUNAMI RUN-UP AND INUNDATION INFLUENCED BY MACRO ROUGHNESS ELEMENTS

2011 ◽  
Vol 1 (32) ◽  
pp. 13 ◽  
Author(s):  
Nils Goseberg ◽  
Torsten Schlurmann
Keyword(s):  
Effective Area ◽  
Second Step ◽  
Wave Channel ◽  
Long Wave ◽  
Roughness Elements ◽  
First Results ◽  
Alternative Methodology ◽  
Run Up ◽  
Tsunami Run Up ◽  
Flow Cross

This research study considers long wave run-up experimentally and numerically. At first, an alternative methodology in long wave physical modeling is presented by means of a set of pipe pumps forcing the inflow of a controlled volume of water into a wave channel mimicking a tsunami-like wave shape that is consistently contained by a proportional plus integral plus derivative controller (PID) controller. Arbitrary wave lengths are persistently generated by means of the proposed methodology. First results are compared to tsunami data stemming from conventional experimental configurations with solitary waves as well as with recent numerical modeling results. Comparisons are thoroughly discussed and – in a second step – numerical simulations are accomplished taking the interaction of long wave run-up and macro-roughness elements into account. Four different experimental configurations of macro-roughness elements are carried out while spacing between elements and numbers of obstacle rows are alternated. A fundamental correlation analysis reveals that a correlation of the number of macro-roughness rows, effective area of flow cross section and a grouping factor of different element configurations exists in principle.

scholarly journals TRANSFORMATION, BREAKING AND RUN-UP OF A LONG WAVE OF FINITE HEIGHT

2011 ◽  
Vol 1 (8) ◽  
pp. 5
Author(s):  
Tsutomu Kishi
Keyword(s):  
Approximate Solutions ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Beach Profile ◽  
Parabolic Profile ◽  
Long Wave ◽  
Short Period ◽  
Run Up ◽  
Sloping Beach ◽  
Linear Shallow Water Theory ◽  
Considerable Deformation

On studying the transformation, breaking and run-up of a relatively steep wave of a short period, the theory for waves of permanent type has given us many fruitful results. However, the theory gradually loses its applicability as a wave becomes flat, since a considerable deformation of the wave profile is inevitable in its propagation. In § 1, a discussion concerning the transformation of a long wave in a channel of variable section is presented based on the non-linear shallow water theory. Approximate solutions obtained by G. B. Whitham's method (1958) are shown. Further, some brief considerations are given to the effects of bottom friction on wave transformation. In § 2, breaking of a long wave is discussed. Breakings on a uniformly sloping beach and on a beach of parabolic profile are considered and the effects of beach profile on breaking are clarified. Finally in § 3, experimental results on wave run-up over l/30 slope are described in comparing with the Kaplan's results.

scholarly journals Long Wave Run-Up Resonance in a Multi-Reflection System

2020 ◽  
Vol 10 (18) ◽  
pp. 6172
Author(s):  
Shanshan Xu ◽  
Frédéric Dias
Keyword(s):  
Boundary Condition ◽  
Shallow Water ◽  
Shallow Water Equations ◽  
Incoming Wave ◽  
Wave Trapping ◽  
Relaxation Zone ◽  
Long Wave ◽  
Nonlinear Shallow Water Equations ◽  
Run Up ◽  
Sloping Beach

Wave reflection and wave trapping can lead to long wave run-up resonance. After reviewing the theory of run-up resonance in the framework of the linear shallow water equations, we perform numerical simulations of periodic waves incident on a linearly sloping beach in the framework of the nonlinear shallow water equations. Three different types of boundary conditions are tested: fully reflective boundary, relaxation zone, and influx transparent boundary. The effect of the boundary condition on wave run-up is investigated. For the fully reflective boundary condition, it is found that resonant regimes do exist for certain values of the frequency of the incoming wave, which is consistent with theoretical results. The influx transparent boundary condition does not lead to run-up resonance. Finally, by decomposing the left- and right-going waves into a multi-reflection system, we find that the relaxation zone can lead to run-up resonance depending on the length of the relaxation zone.

Numerical Investigation of Wave Period Influence on Long Wave Run-Up on Slope With Rigid Vegetation

2016 ◽  
Author(s):  
Jun Tang ◽  
Yongming Shen
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water Equations ◽  
Water Wave ◽  
Wave Period ◽  
Coastal Vegetation ◽  
Coastal Structures ◽  
Rigid Vegetation ◽  
Comparison With Experiment ◽  
Long Wave ◽  
Nonlinear Shallow Water Equations ◽  
Run Up

Coastal vegetation can not only provide shade to coastal structures but also reduce wave run-up. Study of long water wave climb on vegetation beach is fundamental to understanding that how wave run-up may be reduced by planted vegetation along coastline. The present study investigates wave period influence on long wave run-up on a partially-vegetated plane slope via numerical simulation. The numerical model is based on an implementation of Morison’s formulation for rigid structures induced inertia and drag stresses in the nonlinear shallow water equations. The numerical scheme is validated by comparison with experiment results. The model is then applied to investigate long wave with diverse periods propagating and run-up on a partially-vegetated 1:20 plane slope, and the sensitivity of run-up to wave period is investigated based on the numerical results.

Asymptotic modal approximation of nonlinear resonant sloshing in a rectangular tank with small fluid depth

2002 ◽  
Vol 470 ◽  
pp. 319-357 ◽  
Author(s):  
ODD M. FALTINSEN ◽  
ALEXANDER N. TIMOKHA
Keyword(s):  
Finite Depth ◽  
Modal System ◽  
Full Account ◽  
Inviscid Flows ◽  
State Response ◽  
Linear Damping ◽  
Convergence Problems ◽  
Run Up ◽  
Fourth Order Polynomial ◽  
Good Agreement

The modal system describing nonlinear sloshing with inviscid flows in a rectangular rigid tank is revised to match both shallow fluid and secondary (internal) resonance asymptotics. The main goal is to examine nonlinear resonant waves for intermediate depth/breadth ratio 0.1 [lsim ] h/l [lsim ] 0.24 forced by surge/pitch excitation with frequency in the vicinity of the lowest natural frequency. The revised modal equations take full account of nonlinearities up to fourth-order polynomial terms in generalized coordinates and h/l and may be treated as a modal Boussinesq-type theory. The system is truncated with a high number of modes and shows good agreement with experimental data by Rognebakke (1998) for transient motions, where previous finite depth modal theories failed. However, difficulties may occur when experiments show significant energy dissipation associated with run-up at the walls and wave breaking. After reviewing published results on damping rates for lower and higher modes, the linear damping terms due to the linear laminar boundary layer near the tank's surface and viscosity in the fluid bulk are incorporated. This improves the simulation of transient motions. The steady-state response agrees well with experiments by Chester & Bones (1968) for shallow water, and Abramson et al. (1974), Olsen & Johnsen (1975) for intermediate fluid depths. When h/l [lsim ] 0.05, convergence problems associated with increasing the dimension of the modal system are reported.

Report on the International Workshop on Long-Wave Run-up

1991 ◽  
Vol 229 (-1) ◽  
pp. 675 ◽  
Author(s):  
Philip L.-F. Liu ◽  
Costas E. Synolakis ◽  
Harry H. Yeh
Keyword(s):  
International Workshop ◽  
Long Wave ◽  
Run Up
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