scholarly journals EXPERIMENTAL AND NUMERICAL STUDIES ON WAVE TRANSFORMATION OVER ARTIFICIAL REEFS

2011 ◽  
Vol 1 (32) ◽  
pp. 17
Author(s):  
Shan-Hwei Ou ◽  
Tai-Wen Hsu ◽  
Jian-Feng Lin ◽  
Jian-Wu Lai ◽  
Shih-Hsiang Lin ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Phase Speed ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Energy Dissipation Rate ◽  
Artificial Reefs ◽  
Low Flow ◽  
Bubble Velocity ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Charge Coupled Device ◽  
Numerical Studies ◽  
Spilling Breakers

A laboratory measurement on the flow field, turbulence and wave energy of spilling breakers over artificial reefs is presented. Instantaneous velocity fields of propagating breaking waves on artificial reefs were measured using Particle Image Velocimeter (PIV) and Bubble Image Velocimeter (BIV). Variations of water surface elevation were observed by using Charge Coupled Device (CCD) cameras with horizontal posture. The experimental results showed that the initial bubble velocity in the aerated region is faster than phase speed with a factor of 1.26. The velocity profiles are identical to the shallow water theory. It is found that a low flow velocity exists due to an opposite but equal onshore and offshore velocity. Significant turbulent kinetic energy and turbulent Reynolds stress are produced by breaking waves in the front of aerated region, then move offshore and decay. The calculated total energy dissipation rate was compared to that based on a bore approximation.

An experimental investigation of incipient spilling breakers

2009 ◽  
Vol 633 ◽  
pp. 271-283 ◽  
Author(s):  
J. D. DIORIO ◽  
X. LIU ◽  
J. H. DUNCAN
Keyword(s):  
Wave Breaking ◽  
High Speed ◽  
Phase Speed ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Front Face ◽  
Geometrical Parameters ◽  
Instability Mechanism ◽  
Scaling Relationships ◽  
Self Similar ◽  
Spilling Breakers

In the present paper, the profiles of incipient spilling breaking waves with wavelengths ranging from 10 to 120cm were studied experimentally in clean water. Short-wavelength breakers were generated by wind, while longer-wavelength breakers were generated by a mechanical wavemaker, using either a dispersive focusing or a sideband instability mechanism. The crest profiles of these waves were measured with a high-speed cinematic laser-induced fluorescence technique. For all the wave conditions reported herein, wave breaking was initiated with a capillary-ripple pattern as described in Duncan et al. (J. Fluid Mech., vol. 379, 1999, pp. 191–222). In the present paper, it is shown that at incipient breaking the crest shape is self-similar with two geometrical parameters that depend only on the slope of a particular point on the front face of the gravity wave. The scaling relationships appear to be universal for the range of wavelengths studied herein and hold for waves generated by mechanical wavemakers and by wind. The slope measure is found to be dependent on the wave phase speed and the rate of growth of the crest height prior to incipient breaking.

scholarly journals Spectrally Resolved Energy Dissipation Rate and Momentum Flux of Breaking Waves

2008 ◽  
Vol 38 (6) ◽  
pp. 1296-1312 ◽  
Author(s):  
Johannes R. Gemmrich ◽  
Michael L. Banner ◽  
Chris Garrett
Keyword(s):  
Energy Dissipation ◽  
Wave Field ◽  
Wave Energy ◽  
Dissipation Rate ◽  
Momentum Flux ◽  
Phase Speed ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Energy Dissipation Rate ◽  
Small Scale ◽  
Breaking Wave

Abstract Video observations of the ocean surface taken from aboard the Research Platform FLIP reveal the distribution of the along-crest length and propagation velocity of breaking wave crests that generate visible whitecaps. The key quantity assessed is Λ(c)dc, the average length of breaking crests per unit area propagating with speeds in the range (c, c + dc). Independent of the wave field development, Λ(c) is found to peak at intermediate wave scales and to drop off sharply at larger and smaller scales. In developing seas breakers occur at a wide range of scales corresponding to phase speeds from about 0.1 cp to cp, where cp is the phase speed of the waves at the spectral peak. However, in developed seas, breaking is hardly observed at scales corresponding to phase speeds greater than 0.5 cp. The phase speed of the most frequent breakers shifts from 0.4 cp to 0.2 cp as the wave field develops. The occurrence of breakers at a particular scale as well as the rate of surface turnover are well correlated with the wave saturation. The fourth and fifth moments of Λ(c) are used to estimate breaking-wave-supported momentum fluxes, energy dissipation rate, and the fraction of momentum flux supported by air-entraining breaking waves. No indication of a Kolmogorov-type wave energy cascade was found; that is, there is no evidence that the wave energy dissipation is dominated by small-scale waves. The proportionality factor b linking breaking crest distributions to the energy dissipation rate is found to be (7 ± 3) × 10−5, much smaller than previous estimates.

PHYSICAL INTERPRETATION OF WAVE BREAKING CRITERIA

2017 ◽  
Author(s):  
Sergey Kuznetsov ◽  
Sergey Kuznetsov ◽  
Yana Saprykina ◽  
Yana Saprykina ◽  
Boris Divinskiy ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Nonlinear Wave ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Second Harmonic ◽  
Vertical Axis ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Spectral Structure ◽  
Similarity Parameter ◽  
Nonlinear Harmonics ◽  
The Waves

On the base of experimental data it was revealed that type of wave breaking depends on wave asymmetry against the vertical axis at wave breaking point. The asymmetry of waves is defined by spectral structure of waves: by the ratio between amplitudes of first and second nonlinear harmonics and by phase shift between them. The relative position of nonlinear harmonics is defined by a stage of nonlinear wave transformation and the direction of energy transfer between the first and second harmonics. The value of amplitude of the second nonlinear harmonic in comparing with first harmonic is significantly more in waves, breaking by spilling type, than in waves breaking by plunging type. The waves, breaking by plunging type, have the crest of second harmonic shifted forward to one of the first harmonic, so the waves have "saw-tooth" shape asymmetrical to vertical axis. In the waves, breaking by spilling type, the crests of harmonic coincides and these waves are symmetric against the vertical axis. It was found that limit height of breaking waves in empirical criteria depends on type of wave breaking, spectral peak period and a relation between wave energy of main and second nonlinear wave harmonics. It also depends on surf similarity parameter defining conditions of nonlinear wave transformations above inclined bottom.

scholarly journals Velocity bias in intrusive gas-liquid flow measurements

2021 ◽  
Vol 12 (1) ◽  
Author(s):  
B. Hohermuth ◽  
M. Kramer ◽  
S. Felder ◽  
D. Valero
Keyword(s):  
Liquid Flow ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Correction Method ◽  
Force Balance ◽  
Bubble Velocity ◽  
Natural Environments ◽  
Flow Measurements ◽  
Gas Liquid Flow ◽  
Liquid Flows ◽  
Velocity Bias

AbstractGas–liquid flows occur in many natural environments such as breaking waves, river rapids and human-made systems, including nuclear reactors and water treatment or conveyance infrastructure. Such two-phase flows are commonly investigated using phase-detection intrusive probes, yielding velocities that are considered to be directly representative of bubble velocities. Using different state-of-the-art instruments and analysis algorithms, we show that bubble–probe interactions lead to an underestimation of the real bubble velocity due to surface tension. To overcome this velocity bias, a correction method is formulated based on a force balance on the bubble. The proposed methodology allows to assess the bubble–probe interaction bias for various types of gas-liquid flows and to recover the undisturbed real bubble velocity. We show that the velocity bias is strong in laboratory scale investigations and therefore may affect the extrapolation of results to full scale. The correction method increases the accuracy of bubble velocity estimations, thereby enabling a deeper understanding of fundamental gas-liquid flow processes.

scholarly journals PARAMETERIZATION OF EVOLUTION OF BIPHASE DURING NONLINEAR TRANSFORMATION OF WAVES IN COASTAL ZONE

2017 ◽  
pp. 3
Author(s):  
Yana Saprykina ◽  
Sergey Kuznetsov ◽  
Margarita Shtremel
Keyword(s):  
Experimental Data ◽  
Phase Shift ◽  
Coastal Zone ◽  
Energy Exchange ◽  
Wave Motion ◽  
Empirical Relation ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Nonlinear Harmonics ◽  
Sloping Bottom

Based on experimental data, the problem of parametrization of spatial variation of the phase shift (biphase) between the first and second nonlinear harmonics of wave motion during wave transformation over sloping bottom in the coastal zone is discussed. It is revealed that the biphase values vary in the range [–π/2, π/2]. Biphase variations rigorously follow fluctuations in amplitudes of the first and second harmonics and the periodicity of energy exchange between them. The empirical relation applied in modern practice to calculate the biphase, which depends on the Ursell number, is incorrect for calculating the biphase for wave evolution in the coastal zone, because it does not take into account periodic energy exchange between the nonlinear harmonics. The new approximations of the biphase values for typical scenarios of wave transformations are suggested. It was demonstrated that the biphase of breaking waves defines breaking index and breaking type.

scholarly journals NON-BREAKING AND BREAKING WAVE LOADS ON A COOLING WATER OUTFALL

1978 ◽  
Vol 1 (16) ◽  
pp. 148
Author(s):  
G.R. Mogridge ◽  
W.W. Jamieson
Keyword(s):  
Water Level ◽  
Cooling Water ◽  
High Water ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Irregular Waves ◽  
Scale Model ◽  
Breaking Wave ◽  
Wave Loads ◽  
Eastern Canada ◽  
Spilling Breakers

Cooling water from a power generating station in Eastern Canada is pumped to an outfall and distributed into the ocean through discharge ports in the sidewalls of a diffuser cap. The cap is essentially a shell-type structure consisting of a submerged circular cylinder 26.5 ft in diameter and 14 ft high. It is located in 25 ft of water at low water level and 54 ft at high water level. Horizontal forces, vertical forces and overturning moments exerted by waves on a 1:36 scale model of the diffuser cap were measured with and without cooling water discharging from the outfall. Tests were run with regular and irregular waves producing both non-breaking and breaking wave loads on the diffuser cap. The overturning moments measured on the diffuser cap were up to 150 percent greater than those on a solid submerged cylinder sealed to the seabed. Unlike sealed cylinders, all of the wave loads measured on the relatively open structure reached maximum values at approximately the same time. The largest wave loads were measured on the diffuser structure when it was subjected to spilling breakers at low water level. For a given wave height, the spilling breakers caused wave loads up to 100 percent greater than those due to non-breaking waves.

scholarly journals Narrowband Oscillations in the Upper Equatorial Ocean. Part I: Interpretation as Shear Instabilities

2011 ◽  
Vol 41 (3) ◽  
pp. 397-411 ◽  
Author(s):  
J. N. Moum ◽  
J. D. Nash ◽  
W. D. Smyth
Keyword(s):  
Phase Change ◽  
Dissipation Rate ◽  
Phase Speed ◽  
Internal Gravity Waves ◽  
Energy Dissipation Rate ◽  
Turbulence Energy ◽  
Equatorial Undercurrent ◽  
Measured Velocity ◽  
Mixing Rates ◽  
Oscillation Frequencies

Abstract Extended measurements of temperature fluctuations that include the turbulence wavenumber band have now been made using rapidly sampled fast thermistors at multiple depths above the core of the Equatorial Undercurrent on the Tropical Atmosphere Ocean (TAO) mooring at 0°, 140°W. These measurements include the signature of narrowband oscillations as well as turbulence, from which the temperature variance dissipation rate χT and the turbulence energy dissipation rate εχ are estimated. The narrowband oscillations are characterized by the following:groupiness—packets consist of O(10) oscillations;spectral peaks of up to two orders of magnitude above background;a clear day–night cycle with more intensive activity at night;enhanced mixing rates;frequencies of 1–2 × 10−3 Hz, close to both the local buoyancy and shear frequencies, N/2π and S/2π, which vary slowly in time;high vertical coherence over at least 30-m scales; andabrupt vertical phase change (π/2 over <20 m).The abrupt vertical phase change is consistent with instabilities formed in stratified shear flows. Linear stability analysis applied to measured velocity and density profiles leads to predicted frequencies that match those of the observed oscillations. This correspondence suggests that the observed oscillation frequencies are set by the phase speed and wavelength of instabilities as opposed to the Doppler shifting of internal gravity waves with intrinsic frequency set by the local stratification N.

scholarly journals SURF ZONE MEASUREMENTS OF SUSPENDED SEDIMENT

1978 ◽  
Vol 1 (16) ◽  
pp. 104 ◽  
Author(s):  
Timothy W. Kana
Keyword(s):  
South Carolina ◽  
Suspended Sediment ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Sediment Concentration ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Bulk Water ◽  
Scatter Plots ◽  
Water Volumes ◽  
Spilling Breakers

Suspended sediment concentration was measured in approximately 250 breaking waves on undeveloped beaches near Price Inlet, South Carolina, U.S.A., using portable in situ bulk water samplers. As many as 10 instantaneous 2-liter water volumes were obtained in each wave for a total of 1500 samples. Concentrations of suspended sediment were determined at fixed intervals of 10, 30, 60 and 100 cm above the bed for various surf zone positions relative to the breakpoint. The majority of waves sampled during 22 days in June and July, 1977 were relatively long crested, smooth, spilling to plunging in form, with breaker heights ranging from 20 to 150 cm. Surf zone process variables measured included breaker height and depth, breaker type, wave period, surface longshore current velocity, wind velocity and direction. Scatter plots of mean concentration against various process parameters indicate the amount of sediment entrained in breaking waves is primarily a function of elevation above the bed, breaker type, breaker height and distance from the breakpoint. Concentration ranged over 3 orders of magnitude up to 10 gm/1, but varied less than 1 order for samples collected under similar conditions with regard to elevation and breaker type. Plunging breakers generally entrain 1 order more sediment than spilling breakers equal in height. Despite considerable scatter, these data indicate concentration decreases with increasing wave height for waves 50 to 150 cm high, suggesting that small waves can be important in the transport of sand on gently-sloping open coasts.

Characteristics of Transforming Waves Breaking Over a Fringing Reef

2019 ◽  
Author(s):  
Fuxian Gong ◽  
Manhar R. Dhanak
Keyword(s):  
Energy Flux ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Reef Flat ◽  
Stokes Equations ◽  
Second Harmonic ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Fundamental Wave ◽  
Fringing Reef ◽  
Wave Shoaling

Abstract Direct numerical simulation (DNS), based on solution of the Navier Stokes equations, is used to study the characteristics of the transformation of monochromatic waves over a simplified fringing reef, including wave shoaling, and wave breaking that occurs under certain circumstances. The reef geometry involves a sloped plane beach extended with a simple submerged horizontal reef flat. The characteristics are studied for several case studies involving a selection of submergence depths on the reef flat and for a range of incident wave conditions, corresponding to nonbreaking, a spilling breaker and a plunging breaker, are considered. The results are compared with those of laboratory experiments (Kouvaras and Dhanak, 2018). Consistent with other studies, generation of harmonics of the fundamental wave frequency is found to accompany the wave transformation over the reef and the process of transfer of energy through wave breaking. The energy flux decreases dramatically in the onshore direction when the waves break. The more severe the wave breaking process, the greater the decrease in energy flux, particularly in the wave shoaling process. Most of the wave energy is carried by the first harmonic throughout its passage over the fringing reef. In nonbreaking waves, the energy gradually transfers from the first harmonic to the second harmonic due to bottom effects in terms of flat wave troughs and secondary waves. The further the distance away from the fore edge of the reef, the larger the percentage of the transmission, resulting in a single dominant harmonic frequency at the end of the wave surfing zone. For breaking waves, the energy carried by the first harmonic gradually decreases in the onshore direction. Energy transmission between harmonics is not as efficient as nonbreaking waves, while wave dissipation is significant in the wave breaking process.

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