scholarly journals NUMERICAL COMPUTATION OF INFRAGRAVITY WAVE DYNAMICS AND VELOCITY PROFILES USING A FULLY NONLINEAR BOUSSINESQ MODEL

2011 ◽  
Vol 1 (32) ◽  
pp. 48 ◽  
Author(s):  
Rodrigo Cienfuegos ◽  
L. Duarte ◽  
L. Suarez ◽  
P. A. Catalán

We present experimental and numerical analysis of nonlinear processes responsible for generating infragravity waves in the nearshore. We provide new experimental data on random wave propagation and associated velocity profiles in the shoaling and surf zones of a very mild slope beach. We analyze low frequency wave generation mechanisms and dynamics along the beach and examine in detail the ability of the fully nonlinear Boussinesq- type model SERR1D (Cienfuegos et al., 2010) to reproduce the complex dynamics of high frequency wave propagation and energy transfer mechanisms that enhance infragravity wave generation in the laboratory.

2012 ◽  
Vol 1 (33) ◽  
pp. 5
Author(s):  
Gonzalo Simarro ◽  
Alvaro Galan ◽  
Alejandro Orfila

A fully nonlinear Boussinessq-type model with 7 Nwogu’s α-like coefficients is considered. The model is one-layer and low-order to simplify the numerical solvability. The coefficients of the model are here considered functions of the local water depth so as to allow an improvement of the dispersive properties for narrow banded trains in very deep waters. The proposed model is fully nonlinear in weakly dispersive conditions, so that nonlinear wave decomposition in shallower waters is well reproduced.


2012 ◽  
Vol 1 (33) ◽  
pp. 28 ◽  
Author(s):  
Marion Tissier ◽  
Philippe Bonneton ◽  
Gerben Ruessink ◽  
Fabien Marche ◽  
Florent Chazel ◽  
...  

Recent field studies over low sloping beaches have shown that infragravity waves could dissipate a significant part of their energy in the inner surf zone. This phenomenon and the associated short- and long-wave transformations are not well-understood. In this paper, we assess the ability of the fully nonlinear Boussinesq-type model introduced in Bonneton et al. (2011) to reproduce short and long wave transformation in a case involving a strong infragravity wave dissipation close to the shoreline. This validation study, based on van Dongeren et al. (2008)’s laboratory experiments, suggests that the model is able to predict infragravity wave breaking as well as the complex interactions between short and long waves in the surf zone.


Author(s):  
Hongqiang Zhou ◽  
Michelle H. Teng

In this paper, a recently derived (Zhou, 2008) fully nonlinear and higher-order dispersive Boussinesq-type model for wave generation and propagation is presented. This new model is an extension of the wave propagation model by Gobbi and Kirby (1999) and Gobbi et al. (2000) to include the time-varying seabed bathymetry. The resulting new version retains the 4th-order approximation of the dispersion relation and the velocity distribution in the vertical direction, and extends the application to both water wave propagation and wave generation by seabed disturbances such as submarine landslides. The model equations are solved numerically through a higher-order finite difference scheme. To examine the validity of the new model and the improvement due to the higher-order extensions, numerical simulations of two wave generation cases are carried out based on the new 4th order model and an existing lower order Boussinesq model. The results show that the higher order model provides the more accurate prediction for the generated waves, especially those in the trailing region of shorter wavelengths where the traditional lower order Boussinesq model becomes much less accurate.


2011 ◽  
Vol 1 (32) ◽  
pp. 12
Author(s):  
Hong-sheng Zhang ◽  
Hua-wei Zhou ◽  
Guang-wen Hong ◽  
Jian-min Yang

A set of high-order fully nonlinear Boussinesq-type equations is derived from the Laplace equation and the nonlinear boundary conditions. The derived equations include the dissipation terms and fully satisfy the sea bed boundary condition. The equations with the linear dispersion accurate up to [2,2] padé approximation is qualitatively and quantitatively studied in details. A numerical model for wave propagation is developed with the use of iterative Crank-Nicolson scheme, and the two-dimensional fourth-order filter formula is also derived. With two test cases numerically simulated, the modeled results of the fully nonlinear version of the numerical model are compared to those of the weakly nonlinear version.


2006 ◽  
Vol 128 (4) ◽  
pp. 477-488 ◽  
Author(s):  
A. Chakraborty ◽  
S. Gopalakrishnan

A new spectral plate element (SPE) is developed to analyze wave propagation in anisotropic laminated composite media. The element is based on the first-order laminated plate theory, which takes shear deformation into consideration. The element is formulated using the recently developed methodology of spectral finite element formulation based on the solution of a polynomial eigenvalue problem. By virtue of its frequency-wave number domain formulation, single element is sufficient to model large structures, where conventional finite element method will incur heavy cost of computation. The variation of the wave numbers with frequency is shown, which illustrates the inhomogeneous nature of the wave. The element is used to demonstrate the nature of the wave propagating in laminated composite due to mechanical impact and the effect of shear deformation on the mechanical response is demonstrated. The element is also upgraded to an active spectral plate clement for modeling open and closed loop vibration control of plate structures. Further, delamination is introduced in the SPE and scattered wave is captured for both broadband and modulated pulse loading.


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