scholarly journals THE SOLITARY WAVE: ITS CELERITY, PROFILE, INTERNAL VELOCITIES AND AMPLITUDE ATTENUATION IN A HORIZONTAL SMOOTH CHANNEL

2000 ◽  
Vol 1 (3) ◽  
pp. 2 ◽  
Author(s):  
James W. Daily ◽  
Samuel C. Stephan, Jr.
Keyword(s):  
Solitary Wave ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Water Depth ◽  
Wave Length ◽  
Horizontal Displacement ◽  
Smooth Channel ◽  
Amplitude Attenuation ◽  
Oscillatory Waves

The solitary wave consists of a single elevation of water above the originally undisturbed level as shown in Figure 1. It is translatory, a passing wave causing a definite net horizontal displacement of the liquid. While the characteristics of oscillatory waves depend on wave length as well as wave height and water depth, the solitary wave is apparently described completely by the wave height and water depth so long as attenuation due to friction is unimportant.

LARGE SCALE EXPERIMENTS ON EVOLUTION AND RUN-UP OF BREAKING SOLITARY WAVES

2007 ◽  
Vol 01 (03) ◽  
pp. 257-272 ◽  
Author(s):  
KAO-SHU HWANG ◽  
YU-HSUAN CHANG ◽  
HWUNG-HWENG HWUNG ◽  
YI-SYUAN LI
Keyword(s):  
Solitary Wave ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Solitary Waves ◽  
Water Depth ◽  
Large Scale ◽  
Scale Effects ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
Run Up ◽  
Hydraulics Laboratory ◽  
The Waves

The evolution and run-up of breaking solitary waves on plane beaches are investigated in this paper. A series of large-scale experiments were conducted in the SUPER TANK of Tainan Hydraulics Laboratory with three plane beaches of slope 0.05, 0.025 and 0.017 (1:20, 1:40 and 1:60). Solitary waves of which relative wave heights, H/h0, ranged from 0.03 to 0.31 were generated by two types of wave-board displacement trajectory: the ramp-trajectory and the solitary-wave trajectory proposed by Goring (1979). Experimental results show that under the same relative wave height, the waveforms produced by the two generation procedures becomes noticeably different as the waves propagate prior to the breaking point. Meanwhile, under the same relative wave height, the larger the constant water depth is, the larger the dimensionless run-up heights would be. Scale effects associated with the breaking process are discussed.

scholarly journals DEFORMATION UP TO BREAKING OF PERIODIC WAVES ON A BEACH

1976 ◽  
Vol 1 (15) ◽  
pp. 26 ◽  
Author(s):  
Ib A. Svendson ◽  
J. Buhr Hansen
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Water Depth ◽  
Wave Length ◽  
Empirical Relation ◽  
Breaking Point ◽  
Periodic Waves ◽  
Depth Ratio ◽  
Surface Profiles ◽  
Deep Water Wave ◽  
Sloping Beach

An experimental description is presented for 'the transformation of periodic waves which approach breaking on a gently sloping beach. The data include the variation of wave height, phase velocity, wave surface profiles, and the maximum value of the wave height to water depth ratio (H/h)max around the breaking point. The results are compared with the theories of sinusoidal and cnoidal wave shoaling, and the latter is shown in most cases to agree remarkably well when the laminar energy loss along the walls and bottom of the wave tank is included. An empirical relation is established between wave length to water depth ratio L/h at the breaking point and the deep water wave steepness H0/L0. Also the maximum wave height to water depth ratio at breaking shows considerably less scattering than found previously, when plotted versus S = hx L/h, hx being bottom slope.

scholarly journals EXPERIMENTAL INVESTIGATIONS OF PERIODIC WAVES NEAR BREAKING

1980 ◽  
Vol 1 (17) ◽  
pp. 14 ◽  
Author(s):  
J. Buhr Hansen
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Water Depth ◽  
Wave Length ◽  
Experimental Investigations ◽  
Periodic Waves ◽  
Wave Energy Flux ◽  
Surface Profiles ◽  
Series Of Experiments ◽  
Sloping Beach ◽  
Theory And Experiments

The results presented are from a series of experiments of periodic waves approaching breaking on a gently sloping beach. The recorded surface profiles are compared with a cnoidal theory taking into account the effect of the bottom slope. In both theory and experiments a skewness of the profile is observed. A fair agreement is found within certain limits of the wave height to water depth ratio and when the slope is sufficiently gentle. The change in water depth over a wave length must be sufficiently small. The detailed analysis of the surface profiles including the skewness element shows good agreement with the cnoidal theory in cases where the wave height variation is as predicted by cnoidal wave shoaling. The recorded surface profiles together with the recorded phase velocities are further used in computing the wave energy flux based on the theoretical relations from linear and cnoidal theories. Reasonable constancy is observed over the whole length covered by the experiments. Finally the recorded wave set-down is compared with the results of linear and cnoidal theories. When approaching breaking neither of the theories can apparently predict the recorded water level changes.

scholarly journals A Preliminary Laboratory Study of Motion of Floating Debris Generated by Solitary Waves Running up a Beach

2014 ◽  
Vol 08 (03) ◽  
pp. 1440006 ◽  
Author(s):  
Yao Yao ◽  
Zhenhua Huang ◽  
Edmond Y. M. Lo ◽  
Hung-Tao Shen
Keyword(s):  
Solitary Wave ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Solitary Waves ◽  
Water Depth ◽  
Laboratory Study ◽  
Current Understanding ◽  
Final Position ◽  
Coastal Structures ◽  
The Difference

Destructive tsunamis can destroy coastal structures and move huge amounts of tsunami debris. Our current understanding of motion of tsunami debris in tsunami flows is limited. In this paper, we present a preliminary laboratory study of motion of model debris under the action of solitary waves running up a beach. The difference between the waterline of maximum inundation and the final position of debris was examined under various conditions. Effects of solitary wave height, water depth, and the distance of debris source to the shoreline on the maximum inundation, the debris limit, and the final position of debris were examined. In general, the final positions of the debris are different from the waterline at maximum inundation and there is a low possibility that a large amount of debris can be carried by retreating water offshore into the sea.

scholarly journals THE EXACT SOLUTION OF THE HIGHEST WAVE DERIVED FROM A UNIVERSAL WAVE MODEL

1984 ◽  
Vol 1 (19) ◽  
pp. 70
Author(s):  
Yang Yih Chen ◽  
Frederick L.W. Tang
Keyword(s):  
Exact Solution ◽  
Solitary Wave ◽  
Gravity Wave ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Water Depth ◽  
Series Solution ◽  
Wave Model ◽  
Finite Depth

The solitary wave is first established in this paper by extending the series solution of periodic gravity wave as the wavelength approaches to infinite. Then, the highest gravity wave of permanent type in finite depth of water is immediately analyzed. The maximum ratio of wave height to water depth is obtained as 0.85465')..., and the angle at the crest for the considered highest wave is estimated to be 90°.

scholarly journals RESEARCHES ON DOUBLE CURTAIN WALL BREAKWATER

1966 ◽  
Vol 1 (10) ◽  
pp. 51
Author(s):  
Shigeru Tanaka
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Water Depth ◽  
High Speed ◽  
Wave Length ◽  
High Tide ◽  
North Coast ◽  
Curtain Wall ◽  
Remarkable Effect ◽  
The North ◽  
Sea Bottom

It has been clarified by some researchers(R. L. Wiegel1 , F. Ursell", R. Morihira & S. Anezaki3), etc.) that the single curtain wall breakwater has no good wave-dissipating effect at the usual coastal area where the ratio of water-depth to wave-length is considerably small. The author has made researches concerning "Multiple Curtain Wall Breakwater", anticipating the supposition that it may be very effective for the dissipation of wave energy even at a shallow coastal zone, because of its peculiar effectiveness upon wave dissipation. Double curtain wall breakwater is composed of two parallel rows of curtain walls attached to the supporting props installed at an adequate interval. The interval of the said two rows is very important, and the determination of a proper interval, relating to a high wind wave having a definite length and a definite wave height, is one of the main objects of this research. These researches were mainly made experimentally. At first the author assumed that the design wave had the period of 5-6 sec, the length of 50 - 60 m and the height of 1.5 m. The results of the model experiment show that the double curtain wall breakwater, installed at the depth ranging 3 - 10 m, has remarkable effect on wave dissipation.Secondly the author selected a particular location on the north coast of Osaka Bay where the design wave has the period of 7 - 9 sec, the wave length of 65 - 70 m and the wave height of 3.8 - 4.0 m at offshore. At the expected site of thebreakwater, the sea bottom is flat and nearly horizontal, and the water depth under the condition of the extraordinary high tide is 10.5 m above the sea bottom, and an experiment was carried out by the model for this location. One kind of model was constructed in a shallow basin of 0.5 m x 25 m x 30 m, in the scale of 1 to 40 and of 1 to 70, in order to determine its transmission coefficient of wave height. Another kind of model was made in a glazed steel frame tank of 1.6 mx 1.8 m x 28 m, equipped with a piston type wave generator operated by 5 HP motor. The scale of this model is 1 to 10, and its purpose is to secure the surface disturbance and to trace the trajectories of small suspended particles by a 16 mm cine camera and a high speed motion camera.

Surf zone transformation of wave height to water depth ratios

1992 ◽  
Vol 17 (1-2) ◽  
pp. 49-70 ◽  
Author(s):  
R.C. Nelson ◽  
J. Gonsalves
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Water Depth ◽  
Surf Zone

scholarly journals Wave Interaction with Single and Twin Vertical and Sloped Slotted Walls

2020 ◽  
Vol 8 (8) ◽  
pp. 589
Author(s):  
Mohamad Alkhalidi ◽  
Noor Alanjari ◽  
S. Neelamani
Keyword(s):  
Energy Dissipation ◽  
Transmission Coefficient ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Wave Reflection ◽  
Wave Length ◽  
Wave Interaction ◽  
Wave Transmission ◽  
Random Wave ◽  
Dissipation Coefficient ◽  
Energy Dissipation Coefficient

The interaction between waves and slotted vertical walls was experimentally studied in this research to examine the performance of the structure in terms of wave transmission, reflection, and energy dissipation. Single and twin slotted barriers of different slopes and porosities were tested under random wave conditions. A parametric analysis was performed to understand the effect of wall porosity and slope, the number of walls, and the incoming relative wave height and period on the structure performance. The main focus of the study was on wave transmission, which is the main parameter required for coastal engineering applications. The results show that reducing wall porosity from 30% to 10% decreases the wave transmission by a maximum of 35.38% and 38.86% for single and twin walls, respectively, increases the wave reflection up to 47.6%, and increases the energy dissipation by up to 23.7% on average for single walls. For twin-walls, the reduction in wall porosity decreases the wave transmission up to 26.3%, increases the wave reflection up to 40.5%, and the energy dissipation by 13.3%. The addition of a second wall is more efficient in reducing the transmission coefficient than the other wall parameters. The reflection and the energy dissipation coefficients are more affected by the wall porosity than the wall slope or the existence of a second wall. The results show that as the relative wave height increases from 0.1284 to 0.2593, the transmission coefficient decreases by 21.2%, the reflection coefficient decreases by 15.5%, and the energy dissipation coefficient increases by 18.4% on average. Both the transmission and the reflection coefficients increase as the relative wave length increases while the energy dissipation coefficient decreases. The variation in the three coefficients is more significant in deep water than in shallower water.

Statistical Analysis of a Set of Basin Waves

2011 ◽  
Author(s):  
Jule Scharnke ◽  
Janou Hennig
Keyword(s):  
Statistical Analysis ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Water Depth ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Rayleigh Distribution ◽  
Second Order ◽  
Distribution Functions ◽  
Wave Crest ◽  
Intermediate Water ◽  
Wave Measurements

In a recent paper the effect of variations in calibrated wave parameters on wave crest and height distributions was analyzed (OMAE2010-20304, [1]). Theoretical distribution functions were compared to wave measurements with a variation in water depth, wave seed (group spectrum) and location of measurement for the same initial power spectrum. The wave crest distribution of the shallow water waves exceeded both second-order and Rayleigh distribution. Whereas, in intermediate water depth the measured crests followed the second order distribution. The distributions of the measured waves showed that different wave seeds result in the same wave height and crest distributions. Measured wave heights were lower closer to the wave maker. In this paper the results of the continued statistical analysis of basin waves are presented with focus on wave steepness and their influence on wave height and wave crest distributions. Furthermore, the sampling variability of the presented cases is assessed.

A New Methodology for Generation of Solitary Water Waves in Laboratory

2020 ◽  
Author(s):  
Xiao Liu ◽  
Yong Liu
Keyword(s):  
Solitary Wave ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Particle Image ◽  
Fluid Velocity ◽  
Simple System ◽  
Wave Surface ◽  
Wave Flume ◽  
Image Velocimetry ◽  
Laboratory Flume

Abstract In this article, a very simple system based on the enhanced dam-break flows was proposed and implemented to generate solitary wave with larger relative wave height (the ratio of wave height to water depth) in a laboratory flume. The experimental results showed that stable waves with the solitary wave profiles were successfully generated in the wave flume. The wave surface elevations were recorded by a series of wave gauges, and the fluid velocity field of the solitary wave was measured by Particle Image Velocimetry (PIV) system. The measurements of solitary wave profile, celerity and horizontal fluid velocity were also compared with the predictions by three different solitary wave theories. Results demonstrated that the present simple system was reliable and effective for the generation of solitary waves in laboratory.

Sign in / Sign up

Export Citation Format

Share Document