scholarly journals A NEW PARAMETER FOR WAVE BREAKING WITH OPPOSING CURRENT ON SLOPING SEA BED

1988 ◽  
Vol 1 (21) ◽  
pp. 77
Author(s):  
Shigeki Sakai ◽  
Ken-ichi Hirayama ◽  
Hiroshi Saeki

Opposing currents affect the wave breaking processes. The condition of wave breaking caused by opposing currents in deep water is described by the ratio of the wave celerity to the velocity of the opposing current(Yu(1952)). For the wave breaking caused by the opposing currents in shallow water on a flat bed, the equation given by Miche(1951) for the breaking criteria without current remains available (Iwagaki et al.(1980)). However, it is the breaking of shoaling wave in the presence of opposing current on a uniform slope, which is of concern in this paper. Sakai et al.(1981) showed that the wave breaking affected by opposing currents on a sloping sea bed is characterized by a normalized unit width discharge q*, as well as an incident wave steepness Ho/Lo and a slope of sea bed S, where q* is defined as q*= q/g2T3; q: a unit width discharge, g; the gravitational acceleration, T: a wave period. They proposed diagrams for the breaker height and the breaking depth as a function of these three parameters. The breaker index curves in their diagrams show the relationships between the breaker height (or the breaking depth) and q* for waves with particular values of Ho/Lo and S, and it is much more convenient to give a general expression for the breaker indices for arbitrary conditions of q*, Ho/Lo and S. The purpose of this study is to formulate the effects of these parameters on wave breaking, based on the results of systematic experiments performed by the authors, and to derive an empirical and simplified expression for the breaker height and depth in the presence of opposing currents.

A systematic study is presented of pressures on a vertical wall resulting from controlled, plunging waves in deep water. Simultaneous measurements of the kinematics and dynamics of impact show that impact occurs through the focusing of the incident wave front onto the wall, trapping some amount of air in the process. Impact leads to high impulsive pressures, and the dynamics of trapped air can lead to even higher pressures coupled with pressure oscillations. Impact pressures may be decomposed into contributions due to the hydrodynamics of impact and the trapped-air dynamics. The latter is still poorly understood and the extrapolation of measured pressure maxima from laboratory scales to prototype scales is at this stage impossible. Overall, the characteristics and distributions of impact pressures depend significantly on the wall location relative to the wave-breaking location. However, at each wall location, identical incident wave conditions could yield significantly different impact pressures, mainly because of the randomness of the trapped-air dynamics during wave breaking.


2011 ◽  
Vol 1 (8) ◽  
pp. 4
Author(s):  
Thorndike Saville

The distribution of wave steepness (H/T ) for fully developed sea is obtained from Bretschneider's joint distribution of wave height and wave period. This steepness distribution is used with standard wave runup curves to develop a frequency curve of wave run-up. Use of this run-up distribution curve will permit more accurate estimation of the variability in wave run-up for design cases, and particularly the percent of time in which run-ups will exceed that predicted for the significant wave. The distribution may also be used with normal overtopping procedures to determine more accurate estimates of overtopping quantities. Wave run-up may be defined as the vertical height above mean water level to which water from a breaking wave will rise on a structure face. Accurate design data on the height of wave run-up is needed for determination of design crest elevations of protective structures subject to wave action such as seawalls, beach fills, surge barriers, and dams. Such structures are normally designed to prevent wave overtopping with consequent flooding on the landward side and, if of an earth type, possible failure by rearface erosion. Because of the importance of wave run-up elevations in determining structure heights and freeboards, a great deal of work has been done in the past six years in an attempt to relate wave run-up to incident wave characteristics, and slope or structure characteristics. Compilations based largely on laboratory experimental work have been made and have fe-?* suited in curves similar to those shown in Figure 1 which is reprinted from the U. S. Beach Erosion Board Technical Report No. 4. Such curves most frequently have related the dimensionless ratio of relative run-up (R/H ) to incident wave steepness in deep water (H /T ), as a function of structure type or slope. (H is the equivalent deep water wave height.) The curves shown in Figure 1 are of this type, and pertain to structures having a depth of water greater than three wave heights at the toe of the structure; this depth limitation in effect means that the wave breaks directly on the structure. The curves shown in Figure 1 are a portion of a set of five separate figures, covering different structure depths (d/H ). All are published in Beach Erosion Board Technical Report Number 4. These curves were derived primarily from small scale laboratory tests. Further laboratory tests with much larger waves (heights two to five feet) have shown that a scale effect exists for some conditions.


Author(s):  
Jon R. Ineson ◽  
John S. Peel

NOTE: This article was published in a former series of GEUS Bulletin. Please use the original series name when citing this article, for example: Ineson, J. R., & Peel, J. S. (1997). Cambrian shelf stratigraphy of North Greenland. Geology of Greenland Survey Bulletin, 173, 1-120. https://doi.org/10.34194/ggub.v173.5024 _______________ The Lower Palaeozoic Franklinian Basin is extensively exposed in northern Greenland and the Canadian Arctic Islands. For much of the early Palaeozoic, the basin consisted of a southern shelf, bordering the craton, and a northern deep-water trough; the boundary between the shelf and the trough shifted southwards with time. In North Greenland, the evolution of the shelf during the Cambrian is recorded by the Skagen Group, the Portfjeld and Buen Formations and the Brønlund Fjord, Tavsens Iskappe and Ryder Gletscher Groups; the lithostratigraphy of these last three groups forms the main focus of this paper. The Skagen Group, a mixed carbonate-siliciclastic shelf succession of earliest Cambrian age was deposited prior to the development of a deep-water trough. The succeeding Portfjeld Formation represents an extensive shallow-water carbonate platform that covered much of the shelf; marked differentiation of the shelf and trough occurred at this time. Following exposure and karstification of this platform, the shelf was progressively transgressed and the siliciclastics of the Buen Formation were deposited. From the late Early Cambrian to the Early Ordovician, the shelf showed a terraced profile, with a flat-topped shallow-water carbonate platform in the south passing northwards via a carbonate slope apron into a deeper-water outer shelf region. The evolution of this platform and outer shelf system is recorded by the Brønlund Fjord, Tavsens Iskappe and Ryder Gletscher Groups. The dolomites, limestones and subordinate siliciclastics of the Brønlund Fjord and Tavsens Iskappe Groups represent platform margin to deep outer shelf environments. These groups are recognised in three discrete outcrop belts - the southern, northern and eastern outcrop belts. In the southern outcrop belt, from Warming Land to south-east Peary Land, the Brønlund Fjord Group (Lower-Middle Cambrian) is subdivided into eight formations while the Tavsens Iskappe Group (Middle Cambrian - lowermost Ordovician) comprises six formations. In the northern outcrop belt, from northern Nyeboe Land to north-west Peary Land, the Brønlund Fjord Group consists of two formations both defined in the southern outcrop belt, whereas a single formation makes up the Tavsens Iskappe Group. In the eastern outcrop area, a highly faulted terrane in north-east Peary Land, a dolomite-sandstone succession is referred to two formations of the Brønlund Fjord Group. The Ryder Gletscher Group is a thick succession of shallow-water, platform interior carbonates and siliciclastics that extends throughout North Greenland and ranges in age from latest Early Cambrian to Middle Ordovician. The Cambrian portion of this group between Warming Land and south-west Peary Land is formally subdivided into four formations.The Lower Palaeozoic Franklinian Basin is extensively exposed in northern Greenland and the Canadian Arctic Islands. For much of the early Palaeozoic, the basin consisted of a southern shelf, bordering the craton, and a northern deep-water trough; the boundary between the shelf and the trough shifted southwards with time. In North Greenland, the evolution of the shelf during the Cambrian is recorded by the Skagen Group, the Portfjeld and Buen Formations and the Brønlund Fjord, Tavsens Iskappe and Ryder Gletscher Groups; the lithostratigraphy of these last three groups forms the main focus of this paper. The Skagen Group, a mixed carbonate-siliciclastic shelf succession of earliest Cambrian age was deposited prior to the development of a deep-water trough. The succeeding Portfjeld Formation represents an extensive shallow-water carbonate platform that covered much of the shelf; marked differentiation of the shelf and trough occurred at this time. Following exposure and karstification of this platform, the shelf was progressively transgressed and the siliciclastics of the Buen Formation were deposited. From the late Early Cambrian to the Early Ordovician, the shelf showed a terraced profile, with a flat-topped shallow-water carbonate platform in the south passing northwards via a carbonate slope apron into a deeper-water outer shelf region. The evolution of this platform and outer shelf system is recorded by the Brønlund Fjord, Tavsens Iskappe and Ryder Gletscher Groups. The dolomites, limestones and subordinate siliciclastics of the Brønlund Fjord and Tavsens Iskappe Groups represent platform margin to deep outer shelf environments. These groups are recognised in three discrete outcrop belts - the southern, northern and eastern outcrop belts. In the southern outcrop belt, from Warming Land to south-east Peary Land, the Brønlund Fjord Group (Lower-Middle Cambrian) is subdivided into eight formations while the Tavsens Iskappe Group (Middle Cambrian - lowermost Ordovician) comprises six formations. In the northern outcrop belt, from northern Nyeboe Land to north-west Peary Land, the Brønlund Fjord Group consists of two formations both defined in the southern outcrop belt, whereas a single formation makes up the Tavsens Iskappe Group. In the eastern outcrop area, a highly faulted terrane in north-east Peary Land, a dolomite-sandstone succession is referred to two formations of the Brønlund Fjord Group. The Ryder Gletscher Group is a thick succession of shallow-water, platform interior carbonates and siliciclastics that extends throughout North Greenland and ranges in age from latest Early Cambrian to Middle Ordovician. The Cambrian portion of this group between Warming Land and south-west Peary Land is formally subdivided into four formations.


Author(s):  
Elton J. B. Ribeiro ◽  
Zhimin Tan ◽  
Yucheng Hou ◽  
Yanqiu Zhang ◽  
Andre Iwane

Currently the oil and gas industry is focusing on challenging deep water projects, particularly in Campos Basin located coast off Brazil. However, there are a lot of prolific reservoirs located in shallow water, which need to be developed and they are located in area very far from the coast, where there aren’t pipelines facilities to export oil production, in this case is necessary to use a floating production unit able to storage produced oil, such as a FPSO. So, the riser system configuration should be able to absorb FPSO’s dynamic response due to wave load and avoid damage at touch down zone, in this case is recommended to use compliant riser configuration, such as Lazy Wave, Tethered Wave or Lazy S. In addition to, the proposed FPSO for Tubarão Martelo development is a type VLCC (Very Large Crude Carrier) using external turret moored system, which cause large vertical motion at riser connection and it presents large static offset. Also are expected to install 26 risers and umbilicals hanging off on the turret, this large number of risers and umbilicals has driven the main concerns to clashing and clearance requirement since Lazy-S configuration was adopted. In this paper, some numerical model details and recommendations will be presented, which became a feasible challenging risers system in shallow water. For instance, to solve clashing problem it is strictly recommended for modeling MWA (Mid Water Arch) gutter and bend stiffener at top I-tube interface, this recommendation doesn’t matter in deep water, but for shallow water problem is very important. Also is important to use ballast modules in order to solve clashing problems.


1949 ◽  
Vol 7c (7) ◽  
pp. 432-448 ◽  
Author(s):  
Viola M. Davidson

Underyearling salmon in a circular pond of moving water at 20–25 °C. swam during the day and rested on the bottom at night. Before feeding they translocated actively upstream in rapid shallow water and in all directions in slow deep water. During feeding they held position in slow water, but made short excursions to seize food. After feeding, most moved into rapid, shallow water, the largest into the most rapid water.Translocating salmon usually went upstream and swam faster in more rapid water so that the rate of translocation remained constant. The rate of translocation increased with the size of the fish, more than doubling from 3 to 4 cm. in length.While steady illumination caused the salmon to swim up in the water from the bottom, a sudden change in light intensity when they were swimming, as by an object moving against the sky, caused them to swim quickly from shallow to deep water.Eels translocated upstream regularly only in the more rapid water, the swimming rate increasing with current rate. Eels 7 cm. long translocated almost twice as rapidly as salmon 3.5 cm. long. Eels burrowed in the gravel in bright daylight, came out in the evening and translocated rapidly even at night when the salmon were resting.


2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
Li Zhang ◽  
Lei Xing ◽  
Mingyu Dong ◽  
Weimin Chen

Abstract Articulated pusher barge vessel is a short-distance transport vessel with good economic performance and practicability, which is widely used in the Yangtze River of China. In this present work, the resistance performance of articulated pusher barge vessel in deep water and shallow water was studied by model tests in the towing tank and basin of Shanghai Ship and Shipping Research Institute. During the experimental investigation, the articulated pusher barge vessel was divided into three parts: the pusher, the barge and the articulated pusher barge system. Firstly, the deep water resistance performance of the articulated pusher barge system, barge and the pusher at design draught T was studied, then the water depth h was adjusted, and the shallow water resistance at h/T = 2.0, 1.5 and 1.2 was tested and studied respectively, and the difference between deep water resistance and shallow water resistance at design draught were compared. The results of model tests and analysis show that: 1) in the study of deep water resistance, the total resistance of the barge was larger than that of the articulated pusher barge system. 2) for the barge, the shallow water resistance increases about 0.4–0.7 times at h/T = 2.0, 0.5–1.1 times at h/T = 1.5, and 0.7–2.3 times at h/T = 1.2. 3) for the pusher, the shallow water resistance increases about 1.0–0.4 times at h/T = 2.7, 1.2–0.9 times at h/T = 2.0, and 1.7–2.4 times at h/T = 1.6. 4) for the articulated pusher barge system, the shallow water resistance increases about 0.2–0.3 times at h/T = 2.0, 0.5–1.3 times at h/T = 1.5, and 1.0–3.5 times at h/T = 1.2. Furthermore, the water depth Froude number Frh in shallow water was compared with the changing trend of resistance in shallow water.


2000 ◽  
Vol 79 (2-3) ◽  
pp. 335-343 ◽  
Author(s):  
Marit-Solveig Seidenkrantz ◽  
Karen Luise Knudsen ◽  
Peter Kristensen

AbstractThe marine Eemian (marine oxygen-isotope substage 5e: MIS 5e) is represented by shallow-water deposits in southern and western Denmark, while relatively deep-water environments occurred to the north and north-east, where complete interglacial successions seem to be present. We present an overview of the marine Eemian deposits in Denmark, and discuss in more detail indications of climate variability, both for the late Saalian and within the Eemian.


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