scholarly journals TRANSFORMATION OF SHALLOW WATER WAVE SPECTRA

1988 ◽  
Vol 1 (21) ◽  
pp. 44
Author(s):  
Genowefa Bendykowska ◽  
Gosta Werner
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water ◽  
Water Wave ◽  
Peak Frequency ◽  
Wave Spectra ◽  
Linear Dispersion ◽  
Mean Frequency ◽  
Wave Flume ◽  
Strongly Nonlinear ◽  
Shallow Water Wave ◽  
The Mean

Investigations are presented, on some effects of nonlinearity in the motion of shallow water wave spectra. The waves were generated, mechanically in a laboratory wave flume with fixed bottom. Essential differences with the linear dispersion relation are found, showing vanishing dispersivity of higher frequency spectral components in strongly nonlinear spectra. The mean frequency increases with decreasing water depth. The relation of the peak frequency to the mean frequency varied in the experiments from 0.9 to 0.5, for deep to shallow water wave spectra respectively.

scholarly journals Shallow water wave turbulence

2019 ◽  
Vol 874 ◽  
pp. 1169-1196 ◽  
Author(s):  
Pierre Augier ◽  
Ashwin Vishnu Mohanan ◽  
Erik Lindborg
Keyword(s):  
Reynolds Number ◽  
Structure Function ◽  
Shallow Water ◽  
Water Wave ◽  
Structure Functions ◽  
Wave Turbulence ◽  
Order Structure ◽  
Third Order ◽  
Shallow Water Wave ◽  
The Mean

The dynamics of irrotational shallow water wave turbulence forced at large scales and dissipated at small scales is investigated. First, we derive the shallow water analogue of the ‘four-fifths law’ of Kolmogorov turbulence for a third-order structure function involving velocity and displacement increments. Using this relation and assuming that the flow is dominated by shocks, we develop a simple model predicting that the shock amplitude scales as $(\unicode[STIX]{x1D716}d)^{1/3}$, where $\unicode[STIX]{x1D716}$ is the mean dissipation rate and $d$ the mean distance between the shocks, and that the $p$th-order displacement and velocity structure functions scale as $(\unicode[STIX]{x1D716}d)^{p/3}r/d$, where $r$ is the separation. Then we carry out a series of forced simulations with resolutions up to $7680^{2}$, varying the Froude number, $F_{f}=(\unicode[STIX]{x1D716}L_{f})^{1/3}/c$, where $L_{f}$ is the forcing length scale and $c$ is the wave speed. In all simulations a stationary state is reached in which there is a constant spectral energy flux and equipartition between kinetic and potential energy in the constant flux range. The third-order structure function relation is satisfied with a high degree of accuracy. Mean energy is found to scale approximately as $E\sim \sqrt{\unicode[STIX]{x1D716}L_{f}c}$, and is also dependent on resolution, indicating that shallow water wave turbulence does not fit into the paradigm of a Richardson–Kolmogorov cascade. In all simulations shocks develop, displayed as long thin bands of negative divergence in flow visualisations. The mean distance between the shocks is found to scale as $d\sim F_{f}^{1/2}L_{f}$. Structure functions of second and higher order are found to scale in good agreement with the model. We conclude that in the weak limit, $F_{f}\rightarrow 0$, shocks will become denser and weaker and finally disappear for a finite Reynolds number. On the other hand, for a given $F_{f}$, no matter how small, shocks will prevail if the Reynolds number is sufficiently large.

scholarly journals CRITICAL TRAVEL DISTANCE OF WAVES IN SHALLOW WATER

1974 ◽  
Vol 1 (14) ◽  
pp. 24
Author(s):  
Winfried Siefert
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Water Wave ◽  
Characteristic Parameter ◽  
Wave Climate ◽  
Height Distribution ◽  
Shallow Water Wave ◽  
German Coast ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
The Mean

A new criterion for shallow water wave analysis is evaluated from prototype data off the German coast on the reef and wadden sea areas south of the outer Elbe river. Correlations of mean wave heights H with mean wave peri- - H ods T, and wave height distribution factors C. /•, = —l/3 t-^ respectively show that the mean periods and both complete height and period distributions of waves in shallow water can be expressed as functions of mean height and topography. So the mean wave height H proves to be the characteristic parameter for the description of the complete shallow water wave climate. The upper envelop of the values H = f (meteorology, topography) is defined as the case of fully developed sea, which leads to the function of the highest mean wave heights Hmax.

scholarly journals Exact Solutions and Conserved Vectors of the Two-Dimensional Generalized Shallow Water Wave Equation

Mathematics ◽  
2021 ◽  
Vol 9 (12) ◽  
pp. 1439
Author(s):  
Chaudry Masood Khalique ◽  
Karabo Plaatjie
Keyword(s):  
Differential Equation ◽  
Wave Equation ◽  
Shallow Water ◽  
Water Wave ◽  
Elliptic Integral ◽  
Momentum Conservation ◽  
Two Dimensional ◽  
Order Ordinary Differential Equation ◽  
Closed Form Solutions ◽  
Shallow Water Wave

In this article, we investigate a two-dimensional generalized shallow water wave equation. Lie symmetries of the equation are computed first and then used to perform symmetry reductions. By utilizing the three translation symmetries of the equation, a fourth-order ordinary differential equation is obtained and solved in terms of an incomplete elliptic integral. Moreover, with the aid of Kudryashov’s approach, more closed-form solutions are constructed. In addition, energy and linear momentum conservation laws for the underlying equation are computed by engaging the multiplier approach as well as Noether’s theorem.

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