scholarly journals SOME CHARACTERISTICS OF BREAKING WAVES

1988 ◽  
Vol 1 (21) ◽  
pp. 26 ◽  
Author(s):  
Frederic Raichlen ◽  
Panos Papanicolaou
Keyword(s):  
Solitary Waves ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Extensive Study ◽  
Shallow Water Waves ◽  
Engineering Research ◽  
Before And After ◽  
Particle Velocities ◽  
High Degree ◽  
Oscillatory Waves

In recent years there has been a surge in coastal engineering research devoted to various aspects of breaking waves including their kinematics at and after breaking. For a review of certain aspects of this field the interested reader is referred to Peregrine (1983) and Battjes (1988); in this discussion only certain publications pertinent to this investigation will be mentioned briefly. With the advent of laser-Doppler velocimetry (LDV) a number of investigators have measured the internal velocities of waves both before, at, and after breaking. For example, Nadaoka (1986) measured the velocities in the shoaling region under periodic breaking shallow water waves. This extensive study of the nearshore regions resulted in vector diagrams which described very well several spatial aspects of the flow shoreward of breaking. Skjelbreia (1987) also used LDV techniques to define the kinematic characteristics of breaking solitary waves. Measurements were made of the water particle velocities under spilling and plunging breaking waves both very near breaking and after breaking, close to the water surface and to the bottom. A high degree of reproducibility was possible with the laboratory wave generation system used so experiments were conducted at different locations with essentially the same wave; this will be discussed more fully later. Skjelbreia (1987) also presented vector diagrams of the velocities under plunging and spilling solitary breakers. These measurements when compared to those of Nadoaka (1986) raise several questions regarding similarities and differences between breaking oscillatory waves and waves of translation. In addition to detailed kinematic measurements, a macroscopic view of shoaling solitary waves was also taken by Skjelbreia (1987) yielding results on the variation of the wave height with distance both before and after breaking. Although there has been a considerable amount of work along these lines in the past, observations of the changes in the wave at and after breaking are still quite useful in developing an overall understanding of the breaking process.

Asynchronous whirl in a rotating cylinder partially filled with liquid

1985 ◽  
Vol 150 ◽  
pp. 311-327 ◽  
Author(s):  
A. S. Berman ◽  
T. S. Lundgren ◽  
A. Cheng
Keyword(s):  
Surface Waves ◽  
Shallow Water ◽  
Solitary Waves ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Rotating Cylinder ◽  
The Self ◽  
Hydraulic Jumps ◽  
Centrifugal Forces ◽  
Shallow Water Waves ◽  
Analytical Results

Experimental and analytical results are presented for the self-excited oscillations that occur in a partially filled centrifuge when centrifugal forces interact with shallow-water waves. Periodic and aperiodic modulations of the basic whirl phenomena are both observed and calculated. The surface waves are found to be hydraulic jumps, undular bores or solitary waves.

Experiments on strong interactions between solitary waves

1978 ◽  
Vol 85 (3) ◽  
pp. 417-431 ◽  
Author(s):  
P. D. Weidman ◽  
T. Maxworthy
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water ◽  
Solitary Waves ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Vries Equation ◽  
Rectangular Channel ◽  
Quantitative Agreement ◽  
Strong Interactions ◽  
Shallow Water Waves ◽  
Qualitative And Quantitative ◽  
The Waves

Experiments on the interaction between solitary shallow-water waves propagating in the same direction have been performed in a rectangular channel. Two methods were devised to compensate for the dissipation of the waves in order to compare results with Hirota's (1971) solution for the collision of solitons described by the Kortewegde Vries equation. Both qualitative and quantitative agreement with theory is obtained using the proposed corrections for wave damping.

scholarly journals Gaussian solitary waves to Boussinesq equation with dual dispersion and logarithmic nonlinearity

2018 ◽  
Vol 23 (6) ◽  
pp. 942-950 ◽  
Author(s):  
Anjan Biswasa ◽  
Mehmet Ekici ◽  
Abdullah Sonmezoglu
Keyword(s):  
Solitary Wave ◽  
Shallow Water ◽  
Solitary Waves ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Trial Function ◽  
Boussinesq Equation ◽  
Solitary Wave Solutions ◽  
Shallow Water Waves ◽  
Wave Solutions ◽  
Extended Trial

This paper discusses shallow water waves that is modeled with Boussinesq equation that comes with dual dispersion and logarithmic nonlinearity. The extended trial function scheme retrieves exact Gaussian solitary wave solutions to the model.

scholarly journals NUMERICAL STUDY OF ROSENAU-KDV EQUATION USING FINITE ELEMENT METHOD BASED ON COLLOCATION APPROACH

2017 ◽  
Vol 22 (3) ◽  
pp. 373-388 ◽  
Author(s):  
Turgut Ak ◽  
Sharanjeet Dhawan ◽  
S. Battal Gazi Karakoc ◽  
Samir K. Bhowmik ◽  
Kamal R. Raslan
Keyword(s):  
Solitary Waves ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Numerical Study ◽  
Kdv Equation ◽  
Uniform Mesh ◽  
Shallow Water Waves ◽  
Undular Bore ◽  
Von Neumann ◽  
B Spline ◽  
Collocation Approach

In the present paper, a numerical method is proposed for the numerical solution of Rosenau-KdV equation with appropriate initial and boundary conditions by using collocation method with septic B-spline functions on the uniform mesh points. The method is shown to be unconditionally stable using von-Neumann technique. To check accuracy of the error norms L2 and L∞ are computed. Interaction of two and three solitary waves are used to discuss the effect of the behavior of the solitary waves during the interaction. Furthermore, evolution of solitons is illustrated by undular bore initial condition. These results show that the technique introduced here is suitable to investigate behaviors of shallow water waves.

scholarly journals APPLICATIONS OF A NUMERICAL SHALLOW WATER WAVES MODEL

1982 ◽  
Vol 1 (18) ◽  
pp. 54
Author(s):  
A. Hauguel ◽  
Ph. Pechon
Keyword(s):  
Numerical Model ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Scale Model ◽  
Dimensional Model ◽  
Longshore Current ◽  
Shallow Water Waves ◽  
Storm Waves ◽  
Mean Sea Surface ◽  
The Mean

This paper relates three applications of a numerical model of storm waves in shallow waters developed in LNH. The equations are recalled at first and then the applications performed are presented. The numerical model has been used in the case of the port of Fecamp, on the English Channel coast, on which the results of a scale model were available. The computed results compare well with the scale model measurements. The second case is the s imulation of a t sumami induced by a submarine landslide which appeared in 1979 near Nice ; the mode 1 has permitted the simulation of the rising of the wave. The last applications consisted in simulating breaking waves by introducing a dispersion term in the equations. This simulation has been tested with a one-dimensional model at first. The results show that the numerical model reproduces the elevation of the mean sea surface due to the loss of energy in breakings. Then the longshore current induced by breaking waves coming obliquely over a rectilinear sloping shore has been reproduced with a two dimensional model. The results show that the model is able to compute with a good accuracy re fraction, diffraction and reflection, and that it appears to be very interesting for longshore currents simulation.

Investigation of shallow water waves and solitary waves to the conformable 3D-WBBM model by an analytical method

2021 ◽  
Vol 403 ◽  
pp. 127388
Author(s):  
Muhammad Bilal ◽  
Shafqat-ur-Rehman ◽  
Usman Younas ◽  
Haci Mehmet Baskonus ◽  
Muhammad Younis
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water ◽  
Solitary Waves ◽  
Analytical Method ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Shallow Water Waves
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