scholarly journals IRREGULAR WAVE TRANSFORMATION IN A BOUSSINESO WAVE MODEL

1986 ◽  
Vol 1 (20) ◽  
pp. 205
Author(s):  
H.H. Pruser ◽  
H. Schaper ◽  
W. Zielke
Keyword(s):  
Water Waves ◽  
Wave Equations ◽  
Numerical Models ◽  
Wave Model ◽  
Wave Climate ◽  
Irregular Waves ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Diffraction Reflection ◽  
Irregular Wave ◽  
Wave Models

Numerical wave models for shallow water waves are of particular importance for the calculation of the wave climate in harbours and coastal areas. Especially nonlinear time domain models, which are based on the Boussinesq-Wave- Equations, may be helpful in the future for simulating the interaction of currents with refraction, diffraction, reflection and for simulating shoaling..-of irregular waves in natural areas; a potential which has not yet been fully developed. During the last ten years numerical models, based on these equations, have been published; such as ABBOTT et. al. , HAUGUEL and SCHAPER / ZIELKE . Research on this topic is currently being carried on. Some efforts have been made to verify the capability of the models to describe the various physical phenomena. However, up to now, verification has been limited to regular waves. The aim of this paper therefore is, to consider questions concerning irregular, nonlinear waves.

scholarly journals Inner harbour wave agitation using boussinesq wave model

2015 ◽  
Vol 7 (1) ◽  
Author(s):  
Jitendra K. Panigrahi ◽  
C.P. Padhy ◽  
A.S.N. Murty
Keyword(s):  
Water Waves ◽  
Wave Model ◽  
Wave Climate ◽  
Short Wave ◽  
Operating Conditions ◽  
Critical Threshold ◽  
Random Waves ◽  
Near Shore ◽  
Wave Models ◽  
Offshore Wave

ABSTRACTShort crested waves play an important role for planning and design of harbours. In this context a numerical simulation is carried out to evaluate wave tranquility inside a real harbour located in east coast of India. The annual offshore wave climate proximity- to harbour site is established using Wave Model (WAM) hindcast wave data. The deep water waves are transformed to harbour front using a Near Shore spectral Wave model (NSW). A directional analysis is carried out to determine the probable incident wave directions towards the harbour. Most critical threshold wave height and wave period is chosen for normal operating conditions using exceedence probability analysis. Irregular random waves from various directions are generated confirming to Pierson Moskowitz spectrum at 20m water depth. Wave incident into inner harbor through harbor entrance is performed using Boussinesq Wave model (BW). Wave disturbance experienced inside the harbour and at various berths are analysed. The paper discusses the progresses took place in short wave modeling and it demonstrates application of wave climate for the evaluation of harbor tranquility using various types of wave models.

scholarly journals Estimation of Irregular Wave Runup on Intermediate and Reflective Beaches Using a Phase-Resolving Numerical Model

2020 ◽  
Vol 8 (12) ◽  
pp. 993
Author(s):  
Jonas Pinault ◽  
Denis Morichon ◽  
Volker Roeber
Keyword(s):  
Time Series ◽  
Best Practices ◽  
Numerical Models ◽  
Laboratory Data ◽  
Irregular Waves ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Model Parameters ◽  
Wave Runup ◽  
Data Set ◽  
Promising Alternative

Accurate wave runup estimations are of great interest for coastal risk assessment and engineering design. Phase-resolving depth-integrated numerical models offer a promising alternative to commonly used empirical formulae at relatively low computational cost. Several operational models are currently freely available and have been extensively used in recent years for the computation of nearshore wave transformations and runup. However, recommendations for best practices on how to correctly utilize these models in computations of runup processes are still sparse. In this work, the Boussinesq-type model BOSZ is applied to calculate runup from irregular waves on intermediate and reflective beaches. The results are compared to an extensive laboratory data set of LiDAR measurements from wave transformation and shoreline elevation oscillations. The physical processes within the surf and swash zones such as the transfer from gravity to infragravity energy and dissipation are accurately accounted for. In addition, time series of the shoreline oscillations are well captured by the model. Comparisons of statistical values such as R2% show relative errors of less than 6%. The sensitivity of the results to various model parameters is investigated to allow for recommendations of best practices for modeling runup with phase-resolving depth-integrated models. While the breaking index is not found to be a key parameter for the examined cases, the grid size and the threshold depth, at which the runup is computed, are found to have significant influence on the results. The use of a time series, which includes both amplitude and phase information, is required for an accurate modeling of swash processes, as shown by computations with different sets of random waves, displaying a high variability and decreasing the agreement between the experiment and the model results substantially. The infragravity swash SIG is found to be sensitive to the initial phase distribution, likely because it is related to the short wave envelope.

scholarly journals Far-Field Characteristics of Linear Water Waves Generated by a Submerged Landslide over a Flat Seabed

2020 ◽  
Vol 8 (3) ◽  
pp. 196
Author(s):  
Haixiao Jing ◽  
Yanyan Gao ◽  
Changgen Liu ◽  
Jingming Hou
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water ◽  
Water Depth ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Wave Model ◽  
Linear Wave ◽  
Far Field ◽  
Constant Depth ◽  
Low Froude Number ◽  
Dispersive Model ◽  
Wave Models

Understanding the propagation of landslide-generated water waves is of great help against tsunami hazards. In order to investigate the effects of landslide shapes on the far-field leading wave generated by a submerged landslide at a constant depth, three linear wave models with different degrees of dispersive properties are employed in this study. The linear fully dispersive model is then validated by comparing the results against the experimental data available for landslides with a low Froude number. Three simplified shapes of landslides with the same volume, which are unnatural for a body of incoherent material, are used to investigate the effects of landslide shapes on the far-field properties of the generated leading wave over a flat seabed. The results show that the far-field leading crest over a constant depth is independent of the exact landslide shape and is invalid at a shallow water depth. Therefore, the most popular non-dispersive model (also called the shallow water wave model) cannot be used to reproduce the phenomenon. The weakly dispersive wave model can predict this phenomenon well. If only the leading wave is considered, this model is accurate up to at least μ = h0/Lc = 0.6, where h0 is the water depth and Lc denotes the characteristic length of the landslide.

Towards a unified framework for maximum wave computation from numerical models: outcomes from the LATEMAR project.

2020 ◽  
Author(s):  
Alvise Benetazzo ◽  
Francesco Barbariol ◽  
Paolo Pezzutto ◽  
Luciana Bertotti ◽  
Luigi Cavaleri ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Numerical Models ◽  
Wave Spectrum ◽  
Wave Model ◽  
Ocean Waves ◽  
Unified Framework ◽  
Sea State ◽  
Large Wave ◽  
Wavewatch Iii ◽  
Wave Models ◽  
The Impact

<p>Reliable prediction of oceanic waves during severe marine storms has always been foremost for offshore platform design, coastal activities, and navigation safety. Indeed, many damaging accidents and casualties during storms were ascribed to the impact with abnormal and unexpected waves. However, predicting extreme wave occurrence is a challenging task, at first, because of their inherent randomness, and because the observation of large ocean waves, of primary importance to assess theoretical and numerical models, is limited by the costs and risks of deployment during severe open-ocean sea-state conditions.</p><p>In the context of the EU-based Copernicus Marine Environment Monitoring Service (CMEMS) evolution, the LATEMAR project (https://www.mercator-ocean.fr/en/portfolio/latemar/) aimed at improving the modelling of large wave events during marine storms. Indeed, at present, operational systems only provide average and peak wave parameters, with no information on individual waves whatsoever. However, developments of the state-of-the-art third-generation wave models demonstrated that using the directional wave spectrum moments into theoretical statistical models for wave extremes, forecasters are able to accurately infer the expected shape and likelihood of the maximum waves during storms.</p><p>The main purpose of the activity is therefore to provide the wave models WAM and WAVEWATCH III with common procedures to explicitly estimate the maximum wave heights for each sea state. LATEMAR achieved this goal by: performing an extensive assessment of the model maximum waves using field observations collected from an oceanographic tower; comparing WAM and WAVEWATCH III maximum wave estimates in the Mediterranean Sea; investigating the sensitivity of the maximum waves on the main sea state parameters. All model developments and evaluations resulting from this research project will be directly applicable to the wave model forecasting systems to expand their catalogue.</p>

Définition des conditions de vagues pour la conception d'un havre de pêche à Sept-îles

1991 ◽  
Vol 18 (5) ◽  
pp. 851-863 ◽  
Author(s):  
Y. Ouellet ◽  
A. Drouin
Keyword(s):  
Key Words ◽  
Numerical Models ◽  
Wave Climate ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Forecasting Model ◽  
Wave Modeling ◽  
Long Period ◽  
Numerical Studies ◽  
Small Craft ◽  
Wave Forecasting

This paper presents the results of numerical studies to define the wave climate inside the Bay of Sept-îles, where it is proposed to build a small craft harbour. This wave climate is relatively complex as it results from waves coming from outside the Bay, that is from the estuary of the St. Lawrence, or generated inside the Bay itself. Such information is required to select the configuration of the harbour and the best location among the various sites proposed. Waves have been recorded at a station outside the Bay in 1966 – 1967 and inside the Bay in 1983. These records were used to calibrate the wave forecasting model based on wind data recorded at Sept-îles airport. They were also used to validate results obtained from a refraction model used to determine wave transformation from outside to inside the Bay. Then waves were forecasted over a long period (1953 – 1984), for the ice-free season, and used to study wave agitation inside different schemes proposed for harbour configuration and site. The study shows that there is a need to obtain better wave information and to improve the numerical models. Key words: wave forecasting, wave transformation, wave records, wave modeling, harbor, Sept-îles.

On the analytical solutions for water waves generated by a prescribed landslide

2017 ◽  
Vol 821 ◽  
pp. 85-116 ◽  
Author(s):  
Hong-Yueh Lo ◽  
Philip L.-F. Liu
Keyword(s):  
Analytical Solutions ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Initial Conditions ◽  
Numerical Models ◽  
Wave Model ◽  
Dispersive Wave ◽  
Forcing Function ◽  
Resonance Solution ◽  
The Difference ◽  
The One

This paper presents a suite of analytical solutions, for both the free-surface elevation and the flow velocity, for landslide-generated water waves. The one-dimensional (horizontal, 1DH) analytical solutions for water waves generated by a solid landslide moving at a constant speed in constant water depth were obtained for the linear and weakly dispersive wave model as well as the linear and fully dispersive wave model. The area enclosed by the landslide was shown to have stronger lasting effects on the generated water waves than the exact landslide shape. In addition, the resonance solution based on the fully dispersive wave model was examined, and the growth rate was derived. For the 1DH linear shallow water equations (LSWEs) on a constant slope, a closed-form analytical solution, which could serve as a useful benchmark for numerical models, was found for a special landslide forcing function. For the two-dimensional (horizontal, 2DH) LSWEs on a plane beach, we rederived the solutions using the quiescent water initial conditions. The difference between the initial conditions used in the new solutions and those used in previous studies was found to have a permanent effect on the generated waves. We further noted that convergence rate of the 2DH LSWE analytical solutions varies greatly, and advised that case-by-case convergence tests be conducted whenever the modal analytical solutions are numerically evaluated using a finite number of modes.

Computing Acceleration Loads on Free-Fall Lifeboat Occupants: Consequences of Including Nonlinearities in Water Waves and Mother Vessel Motions

2010 ◽  
Author(s):  
Neil Luxcey ◽  
Se´bastien Fouques ◽  
Thomas Sauder
Keyword(s):  
Water Waves ◽  
Three Dimensional ◽  
Free Fall ◽  
Momentum Conservation ◽  
Irregular Waves ◽  
Stokes Waves ◽  
Induced Motion ◽  
Wave Models ◽  
Wave Induced ◽  
The Impact

The safety of occupants in free-fall lifeboats (FFL) launched from a skid is addressed, and the focus is on numerical evaluation of acceleration loads during water impact. This paper investigates the required level of detail when modeling the physics of a lifeboat launch in waves. The first part emphasizes the importance of the non-linearity of the wave surface. Severity of impacts in linear (Airy) waves is compared to impacts in regular Stokes waves of the 5th order. Correspondingly, severity of impacts in irregular waves of the 2nd order is statistically compared to impacts in linear irregular waves. Theory of the two wave models are also briefly presented. The second part discusses the importance of a more detailed modeling of the launching system. This concerns especially cases for which damage to the mother vessel induces major lifeboat heel angles. A three-dimensional skid model is presented, along with validation against experimental measurements. In addition, the wave induced motion of the mother vessel is included. Consequences on the severity of the impact of the lifeboat in regular waves are discussed. This study is based on MARINTEK’s impact simulator for free-fall lifeboats, in which slamming loads are evaluated based on momentum conservation, a long wave approximation, and a von Karman type of approach. It is coupled here to the SIMO software, also developed at MARINTEK. Performance of this coupling is discussed.

scholarly journals Parameter sensitivity and uncertainty analysis for a storm surge and wave model

2016 ◽  
Vol 16 (10) ◽  
pp. 2195-2210 ◽  
Author(s):  
Luis A. Bastidas ◽  
James Knighton ◽  
Shaun W. Kline
Keyword(s):  
Numerical Models ◽  
Model Performance ◽  
Wave Model ◽  
Parameter Sensitivity ◽  
Sensitivity Threshold ◽  
Model Parameters ◽  
Hurricane Wind ◽  
Output Uncertainty ◽  
Model Response ◽  
Wave Models

Abstract. Development and simulation of synthetic hurricane tracks is a common methodology used to estimate hurricane hazards in the absence of empirical coastal surge and wave observations. Such methods typically rely on numerical models to translate stochastically generated hurricane wind and pressure forcing into coastal surge and wave estimates. The model output uncertainty associated with selection of appropriate model parameters must therefore be addressed. The computational overburden of probabilistic surge hazard estimates is exacerbated by the high dimensionality of numerical surge and wave models. We present a model parameter sensitivity analysis of the Delft3D model for the simulation of hazards posed by Hurricane Bob (1991) utilizing three theoretical wind distributions (NWS23, modified Rankine, and Holland). The sensitive model parameters (of 11 total considered) include wind drag, the depth-induced breaking γB, and the bottom roughness. Several parameters show no sensitivity (threshold depth, eddy viscosity, wave triad parameters, and depth-induced breaking αB) and can therefore be excluded to reduce the computational overburden of probabilistic surge hazard estimates. The sensitive model parameters also demonstrate a large number of interactions between parameters and a nonlinear model response. While model outputs showed sensitivity to several parameters, the ability of these parameters to act as tuning parameters for calibration is somewhat limited as proper model calibration is strongly reliant on accurate wind and pressure forcing data. A comparison of the model performance with forcings from the different wind models is also presented.

scholarly journals IRREGULAR WAVE TRANSFORMATION AFFECTED BY OPPOSING CURRENTS

1986 ◽  
Vol 1 (20) ◽  
pp. 53
Author(s):  
Shigeki Sakai ◽  
Kouestu Hiyamizu ◽  
Hiroshi Saeki
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Present Model ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Transformation Model ◽  
Irregular Waves ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Irregular Wave ◽  
Sea Bed ◽  
Dimensionless Unit ◽  
Deep Water Wave

Transformation of irregular waves affected by opposing currents on a sloping sea bed was discussed, experimentally and theoretically. It was found that representative values of wave height, such as a significant wave height, are larger before breaking and the wave height decaying occurs more promptly in a surf zone as opposing currents become dominant, and that characteristics of a irregular wave transformation are determined by the dimensionless unit width discharge q* and the deep water wave steepness. This means that the effects of opposing currents on irregular wave transformation are qualitatively identical to that on the regular waves. A transformation model of irregular waves affected by opposing currents was presented. In the model, formulations for a regular wave transformation, in which the effects of opposing currents were taken into account, were applied to individual waves defined by zero-down" cross-method from irregular wave profiles. Comparisons between experimental results and the prediction by the model showed that the present model gives a good explanation for wave height distributions and the experimental finding that the surf zone is moved offshore by opposing currents.

Sign in / Sign up

Export Citation Format

Share Document