scholarly journals 2DH COMPUTATION OF TRANSIENT SEA BED EVOLUTIONS

1986 ◽  
Vol 1 (20) ◽  
pp. 123 ◽  
Author(s):  
Huib J. De Vriend

The interaction between the constituent models for waves, currents, sediment transport and bottom level changes in a class of compound 2DH mathematical models of transient sea bed evolutions in the coastal zone is investigated mathematically, using the theory of characteristics and a harmonic analysis technique. This leads to contrary indications as to the importance of including diffraction in the wave model and to the unambiguous conclusion that the bottom slope effect on the sediment transport is indespensable for the mathematical system to be inherently stable. This conclusion is shown to imply that depth-integrated current model are insufficient to describe the flow in this type of morphological computations for the nearshore zone or complex coastal areas.

1995 ◽  
Vol 32 (2) ◽  
pp. 77-83
Author(s):  
Y. Yüksel ◽  
D. Maktav ◽  
S. Kapdasli

Submarine pipelines must be designed to resist wave and current induced hydrodynamic forces especially in and near the surf zone. They are buried as protection against forces in the surf zone, however this procedure is not always feasible particularly on a movable sea bed. For this reason the characteristics of the sediment transport on the construction site of beaches should be investigated. In this investigation, the application of the remote sensing method is introduced in order to determine and observe the coastal morphology, so that submarine pipelines may be protected against undesirable seabed movement.


2021 ◽  
Vol 9 (3) ◽  
pp. 245
Author(s):  
Cuiping Kuang ◽  
Xuejian Han ◽  
Jiabo Zhang ◽  
Qingping Zou ◽  
Boling Dong

Beach nourishment, a common practice to replenish an eroded beach face with filling sand, has become increasingly popular as an environmentally friendly soft engineering measure to tackle coastal erosion. In this study, three 200 m long offshore submerged sandbars were placed about 200 m from the shore in August 2017 for both coastal protection and beach nourishment at Shanhai Pass, Bohai Sea, northeastern China. A series of 21 beach profiles were collected from August 2017 to July 2018 to monitor the morphological changes of the nourished beach. Field observations of wave and tide levels were conducted for one year and tidal current for 25 h, respectively. To investigate the spatial-temporal responses of hydrodynamics, sediment transport, and morphology to the presence of three artificial submerged sandbars, a two-dimensional depth-averaged (2DH) multi-fraction sediment transport and morphological model were coupled with wave and current model and implemented over a spatially varying nested grid. The model results compare well with the field observations of hydrodynamics and morphological changes. The tidal range was around 1.0 m and the waves predominately came from the south-south-east (SSE) direction in the study area. The observed and predicted beach profiles indicate that the sandbars moved onshore and the morphology experienced drastic changes immediately after the introduction of sandbars and reached an equilibrium state in about one year. The morphological change was mainly driven by waves. Under the influences of the prevailing waves and the longshore drift toward the northeast, the coastline on the leeside of the sandbars advanced seaward by 35 m maximally while the rest adjacent coastline retreated severely by 44 m maximally within August 2017–July 2018. The model results demonstrate that the three sandbars have little effect on the tidal current but attenuate the incoming wave significantly. As a result, the medium-coarse sand of sandbars is transported onshore and the background silt is mainly transported offshore and partly in the longshore direction toward the northeast. The 2- and 5-year model simulation results further indicate that shoreline salient may form behind the sandbars and protrude offshore enough to reach the sandbars, similar to the tombolo behind the breakwater.


2006 ◽  
Vol 18 (S1) ◽  
pp. 201-207
Author(s):  
Ze-xuan Zhou ◽  
Peng-zhi Lin

2021 ◽  
Vol 9 (11) ◽  
pp. 1258
Author(s):  
Viet Thanh Nguyen ◽  
Minh Tuan Vu ◽  
Chi Zhang

Two-dimensional models of large spatial domain including Cua Lo and Cua Hoi estuaries in Nghe An province, Vietnam, were established, calibrated, and verified with the observed data of tidal level, wave height, wave period, wave direction, and suspended sediment concentration. The model was then applied to investigate the hydrodynamics, cohesive sediment transport, and the morphodynamics feedbacks between two estuaries. Results reveal opposite patterns of nearshore currents affected by monsoons, which flow from the north to the south during the northeast (NE) monsoon and from the south to the north during the southeast (SE) monsoon. The spectral wave model results indicate that wave climate is the main control of the sediment transport in the study area. In the NE monsoon, sediment from Cua Lo port transported to the south generates the sand bar in the northern bank of the Cua Hoi estuary, while sediment from Cua Hoi cannot be carried to the Cua Lo estuary due to the presence of Hon Ngu Island and Lan Chau headland. As a result, the longshore sediment transport from the Cua Hoi estuary to the Cua Lo estuary is reduced and interrupted. The growth and degradation of the sand bars at the Cua Hoi estuary have a great influence on the stability of the navigation channel to Ben Thuy port as well as flood drainage of Lam River.


2015 ◽  
Vol 64 (2) ◽  
pp. 215-226
Author(s):  
Tommi Peussa ◽  
Anouar Belahcen

AbstractThe coupling of the propagating stress wave with the eddy current model is presented. The applied stress produces magnetization in the sample that can be measured outside the sample by measuring the resulting magnetic flux density. The stress and flux density measurements are made on a mechanically excited steel bar. The problem is modelled with the finite element method for both the propagating wave and the eddy current. Three aspects are considered: eddy current model using magnetization from the measurements, coupled wave and eddy current models, and coupled different dimensions in the wave model. The measured stress can be reproduced from the measured flux density by modelling. The coupled models work both for stress and flux couplings as well as for the different dimensionality couplings.


2020 ◽  
Vol 8 (1) ◽  
pp. 55
Author(s):  
Jesbin George ◽  
V. Sanil Kumar ◽  
R. Gowthaman ◽  
Jai Singh

The nearshore wave characteristics and variations in littoral drift (longshore sediment transport; LST) are estimated based on different approaches for four years along the Vengurla coast, with comparable wind-sea and swell energy assessed. The waverider buoy-measured data at 15 m water depth is utilized as the input wave parameters along with the reanalysis model data, and the numerical wave model Delft-3D is used for estimating the nearshore wave parameters. The relative contribution of wind-seas and swells on LST rates are specifically examined. The clear prevalence of west-southwest waves implies the prevalence of south to north longshore sediment transport with net transport varying from 0.19–0.37 × 105 m3/yr. LST is strongly dependent on the breaker angle and a small change in the wave direction substantially alters the LST, and hence reanalysis/model data with coarse resolutions produce large errors (~38%) in the LST estimate. The annual gross LST rate based on integral wave parameters is only 58% considering the wind-seas and swells separately, since the wind-sea energy is comparable to swell energy, and the direction of these two systems differs significantly.


Water ◽  
2020 ◽  
Vol 12 (2) ◽  
pp. 346 ◽  
Author(s):  
Albert Grases ◽  
Vicente Gracia ◽  
Manuel García-León ◽  
Jue Lin-Ye ◽  
Joan Pau Sierra

Episodic coastal hazards associated to sea storms are responsible for sudden and intense changes in coastal morphology. Climate change and local anthropogenic activities such as river regulation and urban growth are raising risk levels in coastal hotspots, like low-lying areas of river deltas. This urges to revise present management strategies to guarantee their future sustainability, demanding a detailed diagnostic of the hazard evolution. In this paper, flooding and erosion under current and future conditions have been assessed at local scale at the urban area of Riumar, a touristic enclave placed at the Ebro Delta (Spain). Process-based models have been used to address the interaction between beach morphology and storm waves, as well as the influence of coastal environment complexity. Storm waves have been propagated with SWAN wave model and have provided the forcings for XBeach, a 2DH hydro-morphodynamic model. Results show that future trends in sea level rise and wave forcing produce non-linear variations of the flooded area and the volume of mobilized sediment resulting from marine storms. In particular, the balance between flooding and sediment transport will shift depending on the relative sea level. Wave induced flooding and long-shore sand transport seem to be diminished in the future, whereas static sea level flooding and cross-shore sediment transport are exacerbated. Therefore, the characterization of tipping points in the coastal response can help to develop robust and adaptive plans to manage climate change impact in sandy wave dominated coasts with a low-lying hinterland and a complex shoreline morphology.


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