scholarly journals LABORATORY STUDY ON TWO-DIMENSIONAL BEACH TRANSFORMATION DUE TO IRREGULAR WAVES

1986 ◽  
Vol 1 (20) ◽  
pp. 102 ◽  
Author(s):  
Nubuo Mimura ◽  
Yukinori Otsuka ◽  
Akira Watanabe
Keyword(s):  
Wave Train ◽  
Irregular Waves ◽  
Two Dimensional ◽  
Beach Profile ◽  
Irregular Wave ◽  
Sand Ripple ◽  
Ripple Formation ◽  
Sand Movement ◽  
Incident Waves ◽  
Profile Change

In the present study, effects of irregular waves on two-dimensional beach transformation and related phenomena were investigated through a series of laboratory experiments. Attempts were made to determine a representative wave of irregular wave trains which controlled individual phenomenon related to the two-dimensional beach profile change. It was found that the representative wave is different for each phenomenon. For the macroscopic beach profile change, it is the mean wave which represents whole incident waves. On the other hand, some of microscopic phenomena, such as initiation of sand movement and sand ripple formation, are controlled by larger waves in the wave train selectively, of which representative wave is the significant wave.

Alternative Methodologies for Subsea Flexible Strength Analysis

2018 ◽  
Author(s):  
Anskey A. Miranda ◽  
Fred P. Turner ◽  
Nigel Barltrop
Keyword(s):  
Real World ◽  
Wave Train ◽  
Irregular Waves ◽  
Wave Crest ◽  
Strength Analysis ◽  
New Wave ◽  
Regular Wave ◽  
Wave Analysis ◽  
Sea State ◽  
Irregular Wave

This paper presents a study of the analysis methodologies used to predict the most likely response of flexibles in a subsea environment, with the aim of determining an efficient and reliable prediction methodology. The most accurate method involves simulating multiple wave realisations of a real world sea state, i.e. irregular waves, and post-processing the results to determine the most probable maximum (MPM). Due to the computationally intensive nature of this approach, however, regular wave analysis is typically used to determine flexible response. This approach considers the maximum wave within a design storm at a desired period; the choice of periods may leave room for uncertainty in the conservatism of the approach. With proper screening, regular wave analysis can be a valid yet overly conservative approach resulting in over design and additional cost. However, if screened incorrectly, there is a possibility that the choice of periods could give results that are under conservative. In addition to regular wave analysis, the paper presents two alternative methodologies to determine the most likely response, with the focus on reducing the computational resources required. The first alternative is an ‘Irregular Wave Screen’ approach in which the wave train is screened at areas of interest for waves within a user defined threshold of the maximum wave height, in addition to other user defined parameters. Only waves within these parameters are simulated to determine responses. The second alternative is the ‘New Wave’ approach, which models the most probable wave elevation around the maximum wave crest. The calculated new wave is then placed at the desired location to determine responses. The responses of the Regular, Irregular Wave Screen and New Wave methodologies are compared with the Irregular MPM approach to determine their feasibility to predict the response of flexibles in a real world irregular sea state with lower computational requirements.

scholarly journals EXPERIMENTS ON BEACH PROFILE CHANGE WITH A LARGE WAVE FLUME

1982 ◽  
Vol 1 (18) ◽  
pp. 85 ◽  
Author(s):  
Ryoichi Kajima ◽  
Takao Shimizu ◽  
Kohki Maruyama ◽  
Shozo Saito
Keyword(s):  
Simple Model ◽  
Transport Rate ◽  
Sand Transport ◽  
Two Dimensional ◽  
Beach Profile ◽  
Large Wave ◽  
Wave Flume ◽  
Grain Sizes ◽  
Profile Changes ◽  
Profile Change

Two-dimensional beach profile changes were investigated with a newly constructed prototype-scale wave flume. The flume is 205 m long, 3.4 m wide and 6 m deep. Sand of two grain sizes was used in the experiments. Analysis of the results was made through use of the parameter C, introduced by Sunamura and Horikawa (1974) to classify beaches as either erosional and accretionary. Beach profile changes obtained in the flume were similar to those in the prototype (field). Net sand transport rate distributions were classified into five types, two of which do not seem to have been observed in laboratory (smallscale) experiments. A simple model describing the five types was developed for evaluating two-dimensional beach profile changes.

A Study for Statistical Characteristics of Riser Response in Global Dynamic Analysis With Irregular Wave

2014 ◽  
Author(s):  
Yanqiu Zhang ◽  
Zhimin Tan ◽  
Yucheng Hou ◽  
Jiabei Yuan
Keyword(s):  
Dynamic Simulation ◽  
Wave Train ◽  
Time History ◽  
Irregular Waves ◽  
Statistical Characteristics ◽  
Normal Process ◽  
Autocorrelation Functions ◽  
Irregular Wave ◽  
Global Dynamic ◽  
Time Histories

A study was conducted to have a deeper understanding to the statistical characteristics of response of flexible riser in global dynamic simulation with irregular wave. If consider the numerical simulation model as a system and the input wave train as an excitation to it, the time histories of riser load should be the response of the system to the excitation. In order to look the effect of riser configuration and water depth, the study was conducted with three kinds of configuration: Free-Hanging, Lazy-S and Tethered-Wave, which were in different water depths. In order to examine the stationarity and ergodicity of riser response, 100 simulations were performed. Each simulation was performed with a 3-hours-long storm. Except the seeds used to generate the random phases to the wave components, the 100 irregular wave processes for each riser are completely the same. When the number of wave components is enough large, the input irregular wave train should be a stationary normal process. Since the software used for the dynamic simulation is high nonlinear, however, the time history of riser response may not be perfectly stationary normal process. Then different probability distribution theories were applied to fit these time histories and the most fitting one was found out for different riser responses and for different riser configurations. The ensemble autocorrelation functions and the time autocorrelation functions were also examined for both irregular waves and the riser responses. Then the study indicated that both irregular waves and riser responses as random processes should be ergodic stationary. Finally the cross correlations between the irregular waves and riser responses were also examined and it was found that the irregular wave for each riser should be jointly stationary with each response of the riser.

scholarly journals Emergence of Solitons from Irregular Waves in Deep Water

2021 ◽  
Vol 9 (12) ◽  
pp. 1369
Author(s):  
Weida Xia ◽  
Yuxiang Ma ◽  
Guohai Dong ◽  
Jie Zhang ◽  
Xiaozhou Ma
Keyword(s):  
Deep Water ◽  
Rogue Wave ◽  
Wave Train ◽  
Irregular Waves ◽  
Peak Wavelength ◽  
Long Distance ◽  
Irregular Wave ◽  
Resonant Interactions ◽  
Dispersion Effects ◽  
Wave Trains

Numerical simulations were performed to study the long-distance evolution of irregular waves in deep water. It was observed that some solitons, which are the theoretical solutions of the nonlinear Schrödinger equation, emerged spontaneously as irregular wave trains propagated in deep water. The solitons propagated approximately at a speed of the linear group velocity. All the solitons had a relatively large amplitude and one detected soliton’s height was two times larger than the significant wave height of the wave train, therefore satisfying the rogue wave definition. The numerical results showed that solitons can persist for a long distance, reaching about 65 times the peak wavelength. By analyzing the spatial variations of these solitons in both time and spectral domains, it is found that the third-and higher-order resonant interactions and dispersion effects played significant roles in the formation of solitons.

scholarly journals TWO-DIMENSIONAL EMPIRICAL EIGENFUNCTION MODEL FOR THE ANALYSIS AND PREDICTION OF BEACH PROFILE CHANGES

1986 ◽  
Vol 1 (20) ◽  
pp. 87 ◽  
Author(s):  
T.W. Hsu ◽  
S.R. Liaw ◽  
S.K. Wang ◽  
S.H. Ou
Keyword(s):  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Relative Importance ◽  
Two Dimensional ◽  
Coastal Structures ◽  
Beach Profile ◽  
Radiation Stress ◽  
Profile Data ◽  
Profile Changes ◽  
D Model ◽  
Profile Change

A two-dimensional empirical eigenfunction model is proposed for the analysis and the prediction of beach profile change due to longshore and cross-shore sediment transports. Beach profile data from Redhill coast, Taiwan, measured every two months at 150 meters interval along the detached breakwaters are analyzed and the relative importance from two directions is investigated. Furthermore, by employing the method of Markov process and linear regression, a prediction model is formulated which takes into account the effect of breaking waves, bottom sediment and radiation stress of waves. This 2-D model is shown to be effective in the analysis and the prediction of beach changes near the coastal structures.

scholarly journals SEDIMENT TRANSPORT AND BEACH TRANSFORMATION

1982 ◽  
Vol 1 (18) ◽  
pp. 88 ◽  
Author(s):  
Tomoya Shibayama ◽  
Kiyoshi Horikawa
Keyword(s):  
Sediment Transport ◽  
Wave Motion ◽  
Wave Theory ◽  
Linear Wave ◽  
Two Dimensional ◽  
Beach Profile ◽  
Field Investigations ◽  
Transport Calculation ◽  
Profile Changes ◽  
Profile Change

Laboratory and field investigations were performed in order to formulate a predictive model of two-dimensional beach profile change. The observed transport was classified into six types, and transport formulas were deduced for each type based on a microscale description of sediment movement caused by wave action. A numerical model of two-dimensional beach transformation was then developed. Beach profile changes calculated with the model were then compared with the laboratory results. The model was found to give reasonable results except in the vicinity of the wave plunging point. The sediment transport calculation is based on a sinusoidal velocity profile. The model appeares to give good results as long as the wave motion can be reasonably approximated by linear wave theory.

scholarly journals BEACH PROFILE CHANGE UNDER VARYING WAVE CLIMATES

1988 ◽  
Vol 1 (21) ◽  
pp. 114
Author(s):  
Yen Kai ◽  
Ren Rushu ◽  
Wang Liang
Keyword(s):  
Experimental Study ◽  
Sandy Beach ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Scale Effects ◽  
Characteristic Point ◽  
Beach Erosion ◽  
Two Dimensional ◽  
Regular Waves ◽  
Beach Profile ◽  
Profile Change

In the present paper results of experimental study of two-dimensional transformation of sandy beach under varying wave climates are presented. The varying wave climates were composed of different systems of regular waves exerted one after another on the model beach. Through experiments it was found that sandy beach transformation within surf zone could be expressed by the changes of characteristic point A and characteristic slope tan 13, and that although the expression for beach erosion-accretion criteria is dimensionless, similitude scale effects should still be taken into consideration.

Two Dimensional Linear Irregular Wave Propagation by FMBEM

2016 ◽  
Author(s):  
Wanggang Shen ◽  
Zhiliang Lin
Keyword(s):  
Wave Propagation ◽  
Boundary Element Method ◽  
High Efficiency ◽  
Numerical Technique ◽  
Wave Train ◽  
High Accuracy ◽  
Two Dimensional ◽  
Numerical Wave Tank ◽  
Irregular Wave ◽  
Numerical Wave

In this paper, Fast Multipole Boundary Element Method (FMBEM) is developed to build a numerical wave tank, which is used to simulate a linear irregular wave train. Comparison is illustrated between the simulated and theoretical waves to validate the precision of FMBEM. Furthermore, the time consumptions of FMBEM are also compared with the traditional BEM to demonstrate its high efficiency. Besides, this effective numerical method is used to simulate the wave propagation with the influence of a fixed surface piercing body. All the results demonstrate that the proposed method is an effective numerical technique to study the linear irregular wave propagation with both high accuracy and efficiency.

scholarly journals NUMERICAL SIMULATION OF BEACH PROFILE CHANGES

1986 ◽  
Vol 1 (20) ◽  
pp. 106
Author(s):  
Hitoshi Nishimura ◽  
Tsuguo Sunamura
Keyword(s):  
Numerical Simulation ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Wave Profile ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Two Dimensional ◽  
Beach Profile ◽  
Profile Changes ◽  
Wave Shoaling ◽  
Profile Change ◽  
Dimensional Wave

This paper presents an overall numerical model for predicting beach profile changes due to waves. The local rate of net on/offshore sediment transport is empirically formulated as a function of the Ursell number and Hallermeier parameter. A sub-model of two-dimensional wave transformation includes the wave shoaling, breaking and damping in a surf zone. It is combined with another sub-model of beach profile change for the analyses of wave-profile interaction. The validity of the model is examined through hindcasting of profile changes observed in ordinary and prototype-scale flumes.

Irregular Wave Forces on Monopile Foundations: Effect of Full Nonlinearity and Bed Slope

2011 ◽  
Author(s):  
Signe Schlo̸er ◽  
Henrik Bredmose ◽  
Harry B. Bingham
Keyword(s):  
Stream Function ◽  
Function Theory ◽  
Wave Train ◽  
Wave Theory ◽  
Irregular Waves ◽  
Wave Forces ◽  
Linear Wave ◽  
Irregular Wave ◽  
Bed Slope ◽  
Force Profiles

Forces on a monopile from a nonlinear irregular unidirectional wave model are investigated. Two seabed profiles of different slopes are considered. Morison’s equation is used to investigate the forcing from fully nonlinear irregular waves and to compare the results with those obtained from linear wave theory and with stream function wave theory. The latter of these theories is only valid on a flat bed. The three predictions of wave forces are compared and the influence of the bed slope is investigated. Force-profiles of two selected waves from the irregular wave train are further compared with the corresponding force-profiles from stream function theory. The results suggest that the nonlinear irregular waves give rise to larger extreme wave forces than those predicted by linear theory and that a steeper bed slope increases the wave forces both for linear and nonlinear waves. It is further found that stream function theory in some cases underestimate the wave forces acting on the monopile.

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