scholarly journals GENERALIZED WAVE DIFFRACTION DIAGRAMS

2000 ◽  
Vol 1 (2) ◽  
pp. 2
Author(s):  
J. W. Johnson

Wave diffraction is the phenomenon in which water waves are propagated into a sheltered region formed by a breakwater or similar barrier which interrupts a portion of a regular wave train (Fig. 1). The principles of diffraction have considerable practical application in connection with the design of breakwaters as discussed by Dunham (1951) at the Long Beach Conference. The phenomenon is analogous to the diffraction of light, sound, and electromagnetic waves. Two general types of diffraction problems usually are encountered: one, the passage of waves around the end of a semi-infinite impermeable breakwater (Putnam and Arthur, 1948), and, second, the passage of waves through a gap in a breakwater (Blue and Johnson, 1949t Carr and Stelzriede, 1951). In general, the theoretical solutions have been found to apply with conservative results, that is, the predicted wave heights in the lee of a breakwater are found to be slightly larger than the height of waves that may be expected under actual conditions. The use of the diffraction theory in breakwater design is made convenient when summarized in the form of diagrams with curves of equal values of diffraction coefficients on a coordinate system in which the origin of the Bystem is at the tip of a single breakwater (Figs. 2a-2b, and 3) or at the center of a gap (Figs. 2c, and 4-6). The diffraction coefficient in this instance is defined as the ratio of the diffracted wave height to the incident wave height and usually is designated by the symbol K». The procedure in preparing diffraction diagrams appears elsewhere (Johnson, 1950). The purpose of this paper is to present diffraction diagrams to supplement the material of Dunham (1951). For complete details on the application of diffraction diagrams to typical harbor problems the reader is referred to this latter paper.

1976 ◽  
Vol 1 (15) ◽  
pp. 45 ◽  
Author(s):  
Udo Berger ◽  
Soren Kohlhase

As under oblique wave approach water waves are reflected by a vertical wall, a wave branching effect (stem) develops normal to the reflecting wall. The waves progressing along the wall will steep up. The wave heights increase up to more than twice the incident wave height. The £jtudy has pointed out that this effect, which is usually called MACH-REFLECTION, is not to be taken as an analogy to gas dynamics, but should be interpreted as a diffraction problem.


The diffraction of sea waves round the end of a long straight breakwater is investigated, use being made of the solutions of mathematically analogous problems in the diffraction of light. The wave patterns and wave heights are determined on both the leeward and windward sides of the breakwater, and for points quite close to the breakwater. This involves some extension of the calculations previously made for optical phenomena. The conditions obtaining in the lee of a small island are discussed. The penetration of waves through a single gap in a long breakwater is examined, and the result is shown to depend very much on whether the gap is small or not compared with the length of the waves. The investigation was suggested by problems arising in the construction of the Mulberry harbours.


1974 ◽  
Vol 1 (14) ◽  
pp. 21
Author(s):  
Ake Sandstrom

A method is proposed for measurement of the incident wave height in a composite wave train. The composite wave train is assumed to consist of a superposition of regular incident and reflected waves with the same wave period. An approximate value of the incident wave height is obtained as the arithmetic mean of the wave heights measured "by two gauges separated a quarter of a wave length. The accuracy of the method in relation to the location of the gauges and the wave parameters is investigated using linear and second order wave theory. Results of the calculations are presented in diagrams.


1966 ◽  
Vol 1 (10) ◽  
pp. 26 ◽  
Author(s):  
Jan M. Jordaan

The wave action due to a sudden impulse in a body of water was studied in a wave basin with beach in the laboratory. Waves were impulsively generated in the 90 ft. tank of water, 3 ft. deep, by the impact or sudden withdrawal of a paraboloidal plunger 14 ft. in diameter. The waves had a dominant height of 2 inches and period of 3 seconds, respectively, at a distance of 50 ft. from the plunger. Such waves are scale representations of those generated by sudden impulses in the ocean, such as an underwater nuclear explosion, a sudden change in the ocean bed due to earthquakes, or the impact of a land slide. The waves produced by a downward impulse, or by an underwater explosion, form a dispersive system: whose properties are not constant as in a uniform progressive wave train. Wave periodicities, celerities and wave lengths increase with time of travel and wave heights decrease with travel distance. Theory has already been developed to predict the wave properties at a given travel time and distance for given source energy, displacement and travel path depth profile (Jordaan 1965). Measurements agree fairly well with predictions.


1960 ◽  
Vol 7 (1) ◽  
pp. 33-52 ◽  
Author(s):  
F. Ursell ◽  
R. G. Dean ◽  
Y. S. Yu

This paper describes an attempt to verify experimentally the wavemaker theory for a piston-type wavemaker. The theory is based upon the usual assumptions of classical hydrodynamics, i.e. that the fluid is inviscid, of uniform density, that motion starts from rest, and that non-linear terms are neglected. If the water depth, wavelength, wave period, and wavemaker stroke (of a harmonically oscillating wavemaker) are known, then the wavemaker theory predicts the wave motion everywhere, and in particular the wave height a few depths away from the wavemaker.The experiments were conducted in a 100 ft. wave channel, and the wave-height envelope was measured with a combination hook-and-point gauge. A plane beach (sloping 1:15) to absorb the wave energy was located at the far end of the channel. The amplitude-reflexion coefficient was usually less than 10%. Unless this reflexion effect is corrected for, it imposes one of the most serious limitations upon experimental accuracy. In the analysis of the present set of measurements, the reflexion effect is taken into account.The first series of tests was concerned with verifying the wavemaker theory for waves of small steepness (0.002 ≤ H/L ≤ 0.03). For this range of wave steepnesses, the measured wave heights were found to be on the average 3.4% below the height predicted by theory. The experimental error, as measured by the scatter about aline 3.4% below the theory, was of the order of 3%. The systematic deviation of 3.4% is believed to be partly due to finite-amplitude effects and possibly to imperfections in the wavemaker motion.The second series of tests was concerned with determining the effects of finite amplitude. For therange of wave steepnesses 0.045 ≤ H/L ≤ 0.048, themeasured wave heights were found to be on the average 10% below the heightspredictedfrom the small-amplitude theory. The experimental error was again of the order of 3%.It is considered that these measurements confirm the validity of the small-amplitude wave theory. No confirmation of this accuracy has hitherto been given for forced motions.


2012 ◽  
Vol 1 (33) ◽  
pp. 16
Author(s):  
Tri Cao Mai ◽  
Torsten Schlurmann

In this paper, the fluctuation of water surface has been recovered from subsurface dynamic pressures exerted on a small vertical cylinder of a tripod structure and it finds that the wave heights can be estimated accurately from the pressures measured at θ = 180°. Seven pressure transducers were mounted around the cylinder to get the circumference distribution of the dynamic pressures. The time histories of the water surface fluctuations and the concurrent dynamic pressures upon the cylinder have been analyzed in frequency domain. A part of the linear diffraction theory of MacCamy & Fuchs has been applied to analyze the experimental data. Additionally, the empirical factor, which is the ratio of the measured and recovered wave height, is presented.


Author(s):  
Biswajit Basu

Bounds on estimates of wave heights (valid for large amplitudes) from pressure and flow measurements at an arbitrary intermediate depth have been provided. Two-dimensional irrotational steady water waves over a flat bed with a finite depth in the presence of underlying uniform currents have been considered in the analysis. Five different upper bounds based on a combination of pressure and velocity field measurements have been derived, though there is only one available lower bound on the wave height in the case of the speed of current greater than or less than the wave speed. This article is part of the theme issue ‘Nonlinear water waves’.


2021 ◽  
Vol 13 (2) ◽  
pp. 195
Author(s):  
He Wang ◽  
Jingsong Yang ◽  
Jianhua Zhu ◽  
Lin Ren ◽  
Yahao Liu ◽  
...  

Sea state estimation from wide-swath and frequent-revisit scatterometers, which are providing ocean winds in the routine, is an attractive challenge. In this study, state-of-the-art deep learning technology is successfully adopted to develop an algorithm for deriving significant wave height from Advanced Scatterometer (ASCAT) aboard MetOp-A. By collocating three years (2016–2018) of ASCAT measurements and WaveWatch III sea state hindcasts at a global scale, huge amount data points (>8 million) were employed to train the multi-hidden-layer deep learning model, which has been established to map the inputs of thirteen sea state related ASCAT observables into the wave heights. The ASCAT significant wave height estimates were validated against hindcast dataset independent on training, showing good consistency in terms of root mean square error of 0.5 m under moderate sea condition (1.0–5.0 m). Additionally, reasonable agreement is also found between ASCAT derived wave heights and buoy observations from National Data Buoy Center for the proposed algorithm. Results are further discussed with respect to sea state maturity, radar incidence angle along with the limitations of the model. Our work demonstrates the capability of scatterometers for monitoring sea state, thus would advance the use of scatterometers, which were originally designed for winds, in studies of ocean waves.


2021 ◽  
Vol 9 (6) ◽  
pp. 660
Author(s):  
Sagi Knobler ◽  
Daniel Bar ◽  
Rotem Cohen ◽  
Dan Liberzon

There is a lack of scientific knowledge about the physical sea characteristics of the eastern part of the Mediterranean Sea. The current work offers a comprehensive view of wave fields in southern Israel waters covering a period between January 2017 and June 2018. The analyzed data were collected by a meteorological buoy providing wind and waves parameters. As expected for this area, the strongest storm events occurred throughout October–April. In this paper, we analyze the buoy data following two main objectives—identifying the most appropriate statistical distribution model and examining wave data in search of rogue wave presence. The objectives were accomplished by comparing a number of models suitable for deep seawater waves. The Tayfun—Fedele 3rd order model showed the best agreement with the tail of the empirical wave heights distribution. Examination of different statistical thresholds for the identification of rogue waves resulted in the detection of 99 unique waves, all of relatively low height, except for one wave that reached 12.2 m in height which was detected during a powerful January 2018 storm. Characteristics of the detected rogue waves were examined, revealing the majority of them presenting crest to trough symmetry. This finding calls for a reevaluation of the crest amplitude being equal to or above 1.25 the significant wave height threshold which assumes rogue waves carry most of their energy in the crest.


2016 ◽  
Vol 62 (3) ◽  
pp. 263-268 ◽  
Author(s):  
Yu. A. Eremin ◽  
A. G. Sveshnikov

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