scholarly journals SWASH ON A NATURAL BEACH

1984 ◽  
Vol 1 (19) ◽  
pp. 46 ◽  
Author(s):  
Masaur Mizuguchi
Keyword(s):  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Fluid Motion ◽  
Wave Theory ◽  
Regular Waves ◽  
Beach Profile ◽  
Partial Reflection ◽  
Reflection Model ◽  
Lower Frequency Region ◽  
Good Agreement

A field measurement was conducted in order to clarify the swash motion on a natural beach. It is found on this particular beach, which had a rather steep foreshore slope, that cross spectra calculated between the surface elevations, onshore velocities and the swash agree very well with those given by linear long two-dimensional standing wave theory in the lower frequency region than a certain value. This finding together with the observed f~ (f; frequency) high frequency saturation in swash spectra encourages a partial reflection model to describe the fluid motion in the inner surf zone, including the swash. The model developed shows a good agreement with the observed results, in which being employed an analogy to regular waves for the criticality of wave reflection. This model makes it possible to predict the swash spectrum for a given incident wave spectra and a given beach profile, as far as wave breaking takes place on a foreshore slope.

scholarly journals BEACH PROFILE CHANGE UNDER VARYING WAVE CLIMATES

1988 ◽  
Vol 1 (21) ◽  
pp. 114
Author(s):  
Yen Kai ◽  
Ren Rushu ◽  
Wang Liang
Keyword(s):  
Experimental Study ◽  
Sandy Beach ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Scale Effects ◽  
Characteristic Point ◽  
Beach Erosion ◽  
Two Dimensional ◽  
Regular Waves ◽  
Beach Profile ◽  
Profile Change

In the present paper results of experimental study of two-dimensional transformation of sandy beach under varying wave climates are presented. The varying wave climates were composed of different systems of regular waves exerted one after another on the model beach. Through experiments it was found that sandy beach transformation within surf zone could be expressed by the changes of characteristic point A and characteristic slope tan 13, and that although the expression for beach erosion-accretion criteria is dimensionless, similitude scale effects should still be taken into consideration.

scholarly journals COMPUTATIONS OF LONGSHORE CURRENTS

1964 ◽  
Vol 1 (9) ◽  
pp. 12
Author(s):  
Tsao-Yi Chiu ◽  
Per Bruun
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Wave Spectrum ◽  
Wave Theory ◽  
Breaking Wave ◽  
Height Distribution ◽  
Longshore Current ◽  
Longshore Currents ◽  
Actual Height

This article introduces the longshore current computations based on theories published under the title "Longshore Currents and Longshore Troughs" (Bruun, 1963). Two approaches are used to formulate the longshore current velocities for a beach profile with one bar under the following assumptions: (1) that longshore current is evenly distributed (or a mean can be taken) along the depthj (2) that the solitary wave theory is applicable for waves in the surf zone; (3) that the statistical wave-height distribution for a deep water wave spectrum with a single narrow band of frequencies can be used near the shore, and (4) that the depth over the bar crest, Dcr, equal 0.8Hv/i /o\. Breaking wave height H^Q/^X is designated to be the actual height equal to Hw-j (significant wave height). Diagrams have been constructed for both approaches for beach profiles with one bar, from which longshore current velocities caused by various wave-breaking conditions can be read directly. As for longshore currents along the beach with a multibar system, fifteen diagrams covering a great variety of wave-breaking conditions are provided for obtaining longshore current velocities in different troughs.

Surf Shoaling and Breaking on Two-Slope Flume Experiments

2014 ◽  
Vol 971-973 ◽  
pp. 760-763
Author(s):  
Jia Xuan Yang ◽  
Xun Qiang Li ◽  
Li Jun Yu ◽  
Lei Wang ◽  
Hong Wang
Keyword(s):  
Wave Breaking ◽  
High Speed ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Steep Slope ◽  
Regular Waves ◽  
Flume Experiments ◽  
Forecasting Methods ◽  
Transient Period ◽  
Primary Breakup ◽  
Secondary Breakup

A flume experiment is carried out to explore regular waves shoaling and breaking in surf zone. The topography is two-slope model, which is composed of a steep slope 1:5 and a gentle slope 1:40. The incidence waves have heights of 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09 and 0.10 m, and periods of 1.0 sec. In order to describe the wave propagation in surf zone, wave height is collected by wave gauges and wave breaking is recorded by high-speed camera. The results show that, when incidence height is increased, the breaking height increases, while the location of breaking point moves forward. When the incidence height is larger enough, the trend slow down. Besides, secondary breakup is observed in case 0.08, 0.09 and 0.10m. The transient period from primary breakup to secondary breakup is a very important phase. Computing and forecasting methods of surf with complicated topography need further study.

MONTE CARLO STUDY OF THE SPIN-1/2 HEISENBERG MODEL IN 1, 2, AND 3 DIMENSIONS

1991 ◽  
Vol 05 (13) ◽  
pp. 907-914 ◽  
Author(s):  
RICHARD J. CRESWICK ◽  
CYNTHIA J. SISSON
Keyword(s):  
Monte Carlo ◽  
High Temperature ◽  
Spin Wave ◽  
Heisenberg Model ◽  
Transition Probability ◽  
Lattice Models ◽  
Wave Theory ◽  
Temperature Expansion ◽  
High Temperature Expansion ◽  
Good Agreement

The properties of the spin-1/2 Heisenberg model on 1, 2, and 3-dimensional lattices are calculated using the Decoupled Cell Method of Homma et al., and these results are compared with high temperature and spin-wave expansions, and with other numerical approaches. The DCM has advantages over other Monte Carlo methods currently in wide use in that the transition probability is positive definite, there is no need to introduce an additional imaginary time, or Trotter, dimension, and the acceptance rate for transitions is comparable to that of classical lattice models. We find very good agreement between the DCM and the high temperature expansion in the temperature region where the high temperature expansion is valid, and reasonably good agreement at low temperatures with spin wave theory. The DCM fails for temperatures T < Tc which decreases with the size of the cell.

scholarly journals BREAKWATER ARMOR DISPLACEMENT THRESHOLDS: A POSSIBLE CORRELATION WITH CUMULATIVE WAVE ENERGY

1984 ◽  
Vol 1 (19) ◽  
pp. 186
Author(s):  
Daniel L. Behnke ◽  
Frederic Raichlen
Keyword(s):  
Wave Energy ◽  
Wave Train ◽  
Wave Length ◽  
Simple Wave ◽  
Wave Theory ◽  
Irregular Waves ◽  
Reconstruction Technique ◽  
Regular Wave ◽  
Regular Waves ◽  
Three Dimensional Model

An extensive program of stability experiments in a highly detailed three-dimensional model has recently been completed to define a reconstruction technique for a damaged breakwater (Lillevang, Raichlen, Cox, and Behnke, 1984). Tests were conducted with both regular waves and irregular waves from various directions incident upon the breakwater. In comparison of the results of the regular wave tests to those of the irregular wave tests, a relation appeared to exist between breakwater damage and the accumulated energy to which the structure had been exposed. The energy delivered per wave is defined, as an approximation, as relating to the product of H2 and L, where H is the significant height of a train of irregular waves and L is the wave length at a selected depth, calculated according to small amplitude wave theory using a wave period corresponding to the peak energy of the spectrum. As applied in regular wave testing, H is the uniform wave height and L is that associated with the period of the simple wave train. The damage in the model due to regular waves and that caused by irregular waves has been related through the use of the cumulative wave energy contained in those waves which have an energy greater than a threshold value for the breakwater.

scholarly journals LABORATORY EXPERIMENTS ON THE INFLUENCE OF WIND ON NEARSHORE WAVE BREAKING

1988 ◽  
Vol 1 (21) ◽  
pp. 46
Author(s):  
Scott L. Douglass ◽  
J. Richard Weggel
Keyword(s):  
Wind Direction ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Laboratory Experiments ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Wave Tank ◽  
Zone Width

The influence of wind on nearshore breaking waves was investigated in a laboratory wave tank. Breaker location, geometry, and type depended upon the wind acting on the wave as it broke. Onshore winds tended to cause waves to break earlier, in deeper water, and to spill: offshore winds tended to cause waves to break later, in shallower water, and to plunge. A change in wind direction from offshore to onshore increased the surf zone width by up to 100%. Wind's effect was greatest for waves which were near the transition between breaker types in the absence of wind. For onshore winds, it was observed that microscale breaking can initiate spilling breaking by providing a perturbation on the crest of the underlying wave as it shoals.

Effect of Shallow Water on a Mathematical Hull at High Subcritical and Supercritical Speeds

1986 ◽  
Vol 30 (02) ◽  
pp. 85-93
Author(s):  
A. Millward ◽  
M. G. Bevan
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water ◽  
Wave Theory ◽  
Hull Form ◽  
Towing Tank ◽  
Resistance Peak ◽  
Good Agreement ◽  
Made In

Experiments have been made in a towing tank to measure the resistance of a mathematical hull form in deepwater and in shallow water at high subcritical and supercritical speeds. The data have been compared with calculations using linearized wave theory for the same hull shape. The results have shown fairly good agreement, with the greatest differences occurring near the subcritical resistance peak.

Numerical Simulations of Ship Bow and Shoulder Wave Breaking in Different Advancing Speeds

2018 ◽  
Author(s):  
Zhen Ren ◽  
Jianhua Wang ◽  
Decheng Wan
Keyword(s):  
Free Surface ◽  
Numerical Simulations ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Wave Pattern ◽  
Breaking Wave ◽  
Wake Field ◽  
Bow Wave ◽  
Calm Water ◽  
Wave Phenomena ◽  
Good Agreement

The KCS model is employed for the numerical simulations to investigate the wave breaking phenomena of the bow and shoulder wave. RANS approach coupled with high resolution VOF technique is used to resolve the free surface. In order to study the speed effects on the phenomena of ship wave breaking, four different speeds, i.e. Fr = 0.26, 0.30, 0.32, 0.35, are investigated in calm water. Predicted resistance and wave patterns under Fr = 0.26 are validated with the available experiment data, and good agreement is achieved. For the Fr = 0.26 case, the wave pattern is steady, and the alternate variation of vorticity appear near the free surface is associated with the wake field. The breaking wave phenomena can be observed when the Froude number is over 0.32 and the Fr = 0.35 case shows most violent breaking bow wave. For the Fr = 0.35 case, the process of overturning and breaking of bow wave is observed clearly, and at the tail of bow wave, some breaking features of free surface are also captured. The reconnection of the initial plunger with the free surface results in a pair of counter-rotating vortex that is responsible for the second plunger and scar.

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