scholarly journals SHALLOW WATER WAVES: A SPECTRAL APPROACH

1984 ◽  
Vol 1 (19) ◽  
pp. 26 ◽  
Author(s):  
Charles L. Vincent
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Finite Depth ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Shallow Water Waves ◽  
Self Similar ◽  
Wind Sea ◽  
Spectral Equation ◽  
Depth Water

Bouws et al. (1983, 1984) have shown that wind sea spectra in finite depth water can be described by a self-similar spectral equation that in the deep water limit is the JONSWAP spectrum (Hasselmann et al. 1973). This paper shows that the spectral parameter a is linked to wave steepness, for wind sea and swell; presents a simple model for wave transformation across the surf zone; and shows that the spectral theory provides data similar to the results of Bretschneider (1958) for shallow water wave growth.

scholarly journals BOTTOM DISSIPATION IN FINITE-DEPTH WATER WAVES

1978 ◽  
Vol 1 (16) ◽  
pp. 24 ◽  
Author(s):  
S.V. Hsiao ◽  
O.H. Shemdin
Keyword(s):  
Friction Coefficient ◽  
Shallow Water ◽  
Wave Energy ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Field Measurements ◽  
Finite Depth ◽  
Bottom Friction ◽  
Friction Mechanism ◽  
Spectral Transformation ◽  
Depth Water

The dissipation of wave energy by various bottom mechanisms plays an important role in the spectral transformation of waves as they propagate from deep to shallow water. Three bottom dissipation mechanisms are discussed. The bottom friction mechanism is investigated in detail and a method for calculating the friction coefficient is proposed. The method is tested by comparison with field measurements. Dissipation due to percolation and bottom motion are also discussed. The magnitude of dissipation rates induced by the different mechanisms are compared under various wave and bottom conditions.

RESPONSE CHARACTERISTICS OF GRAVEL BEACH FROM THE VIEWPOINT OF SHALLOW WATER WAVES AND MOVEMENT OF GRAVELS

2020 ◽  
Vol 76 (2) ◽  
pp. I_565-I_570
Author(s):  
Shin-ichi AOKI ◽  
Tomoki HAMANO ◽  
Taishi NAKAYAMA ◽  
Eiichi OKETANI ◽  
Takahiro HIRAMATSU ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Shallow Water Waves ◽  
Response Characteristics ◽  
Gravel Beach

scholarly journals Active-subspace analysis of exceedance probability for shallow-water waves

2021 ◽  
Vol 126 (1) ◽  
Author(s):  
Kenan Šehić ◽  
Henrik Bredmose ◽  
John D. Sørensen ◽  
Mirza Karamehmedović
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Exceedance Probability ◽  
Subspace Analysis ◽  
Shallow Water Waves ◽  
Active Subspace

scholarly journals Shallow water waves in a rotating rectangular basin

2000 ◽  
Vol 24 (10) ◽  
pp. 649-661 ◽  
Author(s):  
Mohamed Atef Helal
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Equations Of Motion ◽  
System Of Nonlinear Equations ◽  
System Of Equations ◽  
Order Of Approximation ◽  
Shallow Water Waves ◽  
Nonlinear System Of Equations ◽  
Rectangular Basin ◽  
Shallow Water Approximation

This paper is mainly concerned with the motion of an incompressible fluid in a slowly rotating rectangular basin. The equations of motion of such a problem with its boundary conditions are reduced to a system of nonlinear equations, which is to be solved by applying the shallow water approximation theory. Each unknown of the problem is expanded asymptotically in terms of the small parameterϵwhich generally depends on some intrinsic quantities of the problem of study. For each order of approximation, the nonlinear system of equations is presented successively. It is worthy to note that such a study has useful applications in the oceanography.

Sign in / Sign up

Export Citation Format

Share Document