scholarly journals SEDIMENTATION PROCESSES ALONG THE EAST FRIESIAN ISLANDS, WEST GERMANY

1984 ◽  
Vol 1 (19) ◽  
pp. 203 ◽  
Author(s):  
Duncan M. FitzGerald ◽  
Shea Penland ◽  
Dag Nummedal

The East Friesian Islands are located on a high energy shoreline. The average deepwater significant wave height exceeds 1.0 m and the spring tidal range varies from 2.7 to 2.9 m. A large easterly net longshore transport rate has caused eastward growth of the barrier islands. Reclamation of tidal flats has significantly reduced the backbarrier area and has resulted in a decrease in the ratio of inlet width to barrier island length from 42% to 16% during the past 300 years. The headwaters of the major channel dissecting the tidal flats erode in an eastward direction in response to tidal and wave driven currents, wave suspension, and eastward barrier island elongation. Consequently, the drainage systems of most of the inlets are highly asymmetric with 70-80% of the tidal prism coming from the east. This pattern results in a hooked main channel. The location of the channel at the inlet throat is controlled by the westward ebb flow in the main channel, the inertia of ebb flow in the tributary creeks, eastward longshore sediment transport, and the regional stratigraphy. The position and orientation of the main ebb channel controls the symmetry of the ebb-tidal delta about the inlet shoreline. This, in turn, affects the location of swash bar attachment to the beach and overall trends of erosion and deposition along the downdrift barrier.

1977 ◽  
Vol 14 (11) ◽  
pp. 2524-2532 ◽  
Author(s):  
G. E. Reinson

The mouth of the microtidal Miramichi estuary, New Brunswick, is enclosed by a barrier-island system which is cut by two major tidal inlets. The submarine morphology adjacent to these inlets indicates the presence of large tidal deltas which formed predominantly by tidal-current processes. The extensive shoal water on the landward side of the barrier is due to the landward transport of sand through the inlets and the deposition of this sand as coalescing flood-tidal delta deposits. The creation of an artificial channel inside the main inlet in the late 19th century, and its maintenance since that time, have resulted in substantial channel-flow bypassing of the natural channel seaward of the barrier. This promoted the scouring of a new channel through the ebb-tidal delta shoal.Large tidal deltas apparently are not common morphological features of estuaries on microtidal, barrier-island coastlines, but they do occur at the entrances of very large microtidal estuaries such as the Miramichi. In such cases they are usually completely subtidal, and much larger than tidal deltas of mesotidal estuaries reported in the literature. Rather than tidal range, the tidal prism, which takes into account both tidal range and estuary surface area, may play the major role in the formation of tidal deltas in both mesotidal and microtidal estuaries.


1977 ◽  
Vol 14 (11) ◽  
pp. 2429-2439 ◽  
Author(s):  
J. W. Armon ◽  
S. B. McCann

Wave hindcasting and refraction techniques were used to establish inshore wave conditions and longshore sediment transport rates along a 43 km barrier island shoreline at Malpeque, Prince Edward Island, in the southern Gulf of St. Lawrence. Net longshore sediment transport is directed southeastwards, at rates varying from 40 000 m3 year−1 to greater than 200 000 m3 year−1. The information on longshore transport was combined with volumetric estimates of shore normal sedimentary exchanges to define the sediment budget of the barrier sands at Malpeque. The results of the budget analysis indicate that subtidal erosion in the shoreface zone is the principal source of sand for the longshore transport system.


2021 ◽  
Vol 91 (10) ◽  
pp. 1040-1066
Author(s):  
Thomas C. Neal ◽  
Christian M. Appendini ◽  
Eugene C. Rankey

ABSTRACT Although carbonate ramps are ubiquitous in the geologic record, the impacts of oceanographic processes on their facies patterns are less well constrained than with other carbonate geomorphic forms such as isolated carbonate platforms. To better understand the role of physical and chemical oceanographic forces on geomorphic and sedimentologic variability of ramps, this study examines in-situ field measurements, remote-sensing data, and hydrodynamic modeling of the nearshore inner ramp of the modern northeastern Yucatán Shelf, Mexico. The results reveal how sediment production and accumulation are influenced by the complex interactions of the physical, chemical, and biological processes on the ramp. Upwelled, cool, nutrient-rich waters are transported westward across the ramp and concentrated along the shoreline by cold fronts (Nortes), westerly regional currents, and longshore currents. This influx supports a mix of both heterozoan and photozoan fauna and flora in the nearshore realm. Geomorphically, the nearshore parts of this ramp system in the study area include lagoon, barrier island, and shoreface environments, influenced by the mixed-energy (wave and tidal) setting. Persistent trade winds, episodic tropical depressions, and winter storms generate waves that propagate onto the shoreface. Extensive shore-parallel sand bodies (beach ridges and subaqueous dune fields) of the high-energy, wave-dominated upper shoreface and foreshore are composed of fine to coarse skeletal sand, lack mud, and include highly abraded, broken and bored grains. The large shallow lagoon is mixed-energy: wave-dominated near the inlet, it transitions to tide-dominated in the more protected central and eastern regions. Lagoon sediment consists of Halimeda-rich muddy gravel and sand. Hydrodynamic forces are especially strong where bathymetry focuses water flow, as occurs along a promontory and at the lagoon inlet, and can form subaqueous dunes. Explicit comparison among numerical models of conceptual shorefaces in which variables are altered and isolated systematically demonstrates the influences of the winds, waves, tides, and currents on hydrodynamics across a broad spectrum of settings (e.g., increased tidal range, differing wind and wave conditions). Results quantify how sediment transport patterns are determined by wave height and direction relative to the shoreface, but tidal forces locally control geomorphic and sedimentologic character. Similarly, the physical oceanographic processes acting throughout the year (e.g., daily tides, episodic winter Nortes, and persistent easterly winds and waves) have more impact on geomorphology and sedimentology of comparable nearshore systems than intense, but infrequent, hurricanes. Overall, this study provides perspectives on how upwelling, nutrient levels, and hydrodynamics influence the varied sedimentologic and geomorphic character of the nearshore areas of this high-energy carbonate ramp system. These results also provide for more accurate and realistic conceptual models of the depositional variability for a spectrum of modern and ancient ramp systems.


1976 ◽  
Vol 1 (15) ◽  
pp. 70 ◽  
Author(s):  
Richard O. Bruno ◽  
Christopher G. Gable

Analysis of longshore transport at a littoral barrier is presented. Channel Islands Harbor, California was selected as the study site because its offshore breakwater and jetties form a unique complete littoral barrier. Through repetitive surveys an accurate determination of longshore material transport in one direction was made. Measured transport rates ranged from 160,000 to 1,284,000 cubic meters per year. Utilizing visual observations of surf parameters, estimates of longshore wave thrust were computed. The range of wave thrust was 145 to 1,988 Newtons per meter. Comparison of the relation of wave thrust and longshore sediment transport is made. This study indicates that in an environment of high transport, nearly twice as much transport is predicted tinder corresponding wave thrust as that of the data summarized in the Coastal Engineering Research Center's Shore Protection Manual.


2012 ◽  
Vol 1 (33) ◽  
pp. 22
Author(s):  
Giuseppe Barbaro ◽  
Giuseppe Roberto Tomasicchio ◽  
Giovanni Malara ◽  
Felice D'Alessandro

The present paper deals with the determination of longshore sediment transport rate. Specifically, case study of Saline Joniche (Reggio Calabria, Italy, is discussed. This case is of interest because, in this location, an artificial basin was built in the 70’s. After few years, port entrance experienced total obstruction by sand. Actually, the area is abandoned and several projects have been proposed for revitalising port activities. This paper discusses a method for estimating the longshore sediment transport rate at Saline Joniche and complements previous methodology.


2021 ◽  
Vol 21 (7) ◽  
pp. 2075-2091
Author(s):  
Elias de Korte ◽  
Bruno Castelle ◽  
Eric Tellier

Abstract. A Bayesian network (BN) approach is used to model and predict shore-break-related injuries and rip-current drowning incidents based on detailed environmental conditions (wave, tide, weather, beach morphology) on the high-energy Gironde coast, southwest France. Six years (2011–2017) of boreal summer (15 June–15 September) surf zone injuries (SZIs) were analysed, comprising 442 (fatal and non-fatal) drownings caused by rip currents and 715 injuries caused by shore-break waves. Environmental conditions at the time of the SZIs were used to train two separate Bayesian networks (BNs), one for rip-current drownings and the other one for shore-break wave injuries. Each BN included two so-called “hidden” exposure and hazard variables, which are not observed yet interact with several of the observed (environmental) variables, which in turn limit the number of BN edges. Both BNs were tested for varying complexity using K-fold cross-validation based on multiple performance metrics. Results show a poor to fair predictive ability of the models according to the different metrics. Shore-break-related injuries appear more predictable than rip-current drowning incidents using the selected predictors within a BN, as the shore-break BN systematically performed better than the rip-current BN. Sensitivity and scenario analyses were performed to address the influence of environmental data variables and their interactions on exposure, hazard and resulting life risk. Most of our findings are in line with earlier SZI and physical hazard-based work; that is, more SZIs are observed for warm sunny days with light winds; long-period waves, with specifically more shore-break-related injuries at high tide and for steep beach profiles; and more rip-current drownings near low tide with near-shore-normal wave incidence and strongly alongshore non-uniform surf zone morphology. The BNs also provided fresh insight, showing that rip-current drowning risk is approximately equally distributed between exposure (variance reduction Vr=14.4 %) and hazard (Vr=17.4 %), while exposure of water user to shore-break waves is much more important (Vr=23.5 %) than the hazard (Vr=10.9 %). Large surf is found to decrease beachgoer exposure to shore-break hazard, while this is not observed for rip currents. Rapid change in tide elevation during days with large tidal range was also found to result in more drowning incidents. We advocate that such BNs, providing a better understanding of hazard, exposure and life risk, can be developed to improve public safety awareness campaigns, in parallel with the development of more skilful risk predictors to anticipate high-life-risk days.


2021 ◽  
Vol 4 (1) ◽  
pp. 36-60
Author(s):  
Wout M. van Dijk ◽  
Jana R. Cox ◽  
Jasper R.F.W. Leuven ◽  
Jelmer Cleveringa ◽  
Marcel Taal ◽  
...  

Shipping fairways in estuaries are continuously dredged to maintain access for large vessels to major ports. However, several estuaries worldwide show adverse side effects to dredging activities, in particular affecting morphology and ecologically valuable habitats. We used physical scale experiments, field assessments of the Western Scheldt estuary (the Netherlands), and morphodynamic model runs to analyse the effects of dredging and future stresses (climate and sediment management) on a multi-channel system and its ecologically valuable intertidal flats. All methods indicate that dredging and disposal strategies are unfavourable to long-term morphology because dredging creates and propagates the imbalance between shallow and deeper parts of the estuary, causing a loss of valuable connecting channels and fixation of the tidal flats and main channel positions, while countering adverse effects by disposal strategy has limited effectiveness. Changing the disposal strategy towards main channel scour disposal can be economically and ecologically beneficial for the preservation of the multi-channel system. Further channel deepening will accelerate the adverse side effects, whereas future sea-level rise may revive the multi-channel system.


Author(s):  
PING WANG

The shoreline of northern Colombia is located in the tropical zone along the south coast of Caribbean Sea. Its coastal processes are strongly influenced by the northeast trade wind, which results in the dominating northeasterly approaching wave occurring over 95% of the time. This drives a persistent southwestward longshore sand transport. The state of the beach along the generally northeast-southwest trending northern Colombia coast is strongly influenced by this constant unidirectional longshore sediment transport. At locations where this westward longshore sand transport is interrupted, naturally or  anthropogenically, beach accretion occurs along the updrift shoreline coupled with erosion at the downdrift side. Natural interruption of longshore transport can be caused by tidal inlets, protruding headland, shoreline orientation change, and nearshore bathymetry variations. Anthropogenic interruption of the longshore transport along the northern Colombia coast is mainly caused by the construction of groins, as well as harbors at some locations. Numerous groins were constructed due to their local success in creating beach accretion at the drift side. However, severe beach erosion occurs along the downdrift shoreline. Shoreline protection along the northern Colombia coast, and coasts in the tropical area in general, should carefully consider the persistent unidirectional longshore sand transport and should not be misguided by the local updrift accumulation as being a successful project.


1986 ◽  
Vol 1 (20) ◽  
pp. 103
Author(s):  
J.P. Moller ◽  
K.C. Owen ◽  
D.H. Swart

This paper describes a diamond mining operation on the west coast of Africa in Namibia (South West Africa, see Figures 1a and 1b), where a sea-wall of normal beach sand has been built out to a distance of more than 300 m seawards of the original coastline. The wall which runs alongshore is maintained in the high energy environment, which is characterized by northbound longshore transport rates, by means of artificial suppletion at a rate of up to and more than 300 000 m / month. Before embarking on the project the company had to be assured of the sand on the sand-wall; to allow completion of the project free of severe damage by wave action. This implied being able to predict the erosion rate of the sea-wall by the waves. The data set used consisted of wave measurements by Waverider and wave observations obtained from voluntary observing ships; aerial photographs at monthly intervals of the waterline in the study area; and soundings of the beach, sea-wall and nearshore topography by using a helicopter as a platform. Various methods of prediction and projection were used to quantify sediment movement.


1985 ◽  
Vol 1985 (1) ◽  
pp. 379-383 ◽  
Author(s):  
Erich R. Gundlach ◽  
Timothy W. Kana ◽  
Paul D. Boehm

ABSTRACT The shoreline of a potential spill impact area can be divided into units, each with a specific geomorphology. As oil enters each unit, it will (to varying extents) evaporate, dissolve, interact with suspended particles and sink, biodegrade, photo-oxidize, be transported to the next unit, or strand on the shoreline. In the last case, oil will reenter the aquatic system after a given time and again be exposed to these same processes. For modeling purposes, the world's shorelines can be divided into sedimentary beaches and tectonic rocky coasts, varying in wave energy and tidal range. The size of beach sediments can range from very coarse grained (gravels) to very fine grained (silts and clays). Coarse-grained shorelines have higher incoming wave energy than fine-grained areas. Along all coasts, several partitioning components remain relatively constant for medium to light crude oils, e.g., evaporation (30 to 50 percent) and biodegradation/photo-oxidation (0 to 5 percent). Others may vary substantially. For instance, sedimentation may reach 10 to 20 percent in fine-grained estuaries, but only 0 to 2 percent along high energy coasts having very coarse-grained bottom sediments. Similarly, along sandy beaches the stranding of oil along the shoreline may reach 25 to 35 percent, as compared to only 1 to 2 percent along steep, rocky coasts. Dissolution, in general, does not vary so radically, being approximately 10 to 15 percent along high-energy rocky coasts, as compared to 5 to 10 percent in sheltered estuaries that do not have the mixing energy to drive additional oil into the water column.


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