scholarly journals BREAKING WAVE DESIGN CRITERIA

1984 ◽  
Vol 1 (19) ◽  
pp. 2
Author(s):  
E.B. Thornton ◽  
C.S. Wu ◽  
R.T. Guza
Keyword(s):  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Laboratory Experiments ◽  
Wave Model ◽  
Rayleigh Distribution ◽  
The United States ◽  
Random Wave ◽  
Breaking Wave ◽  
Shore Protection ◽  
Design Procedures ◽  
Wave Heights

Breaking wave heights measured in both field and random wave laboratory experiments are examined. The dependence of breaker height and breaker depth on beach slope and deep water steepness is presented. The results are compared with the design curves of the Shore Protection Manual (SPM) and the predictions of the randan wave model by Goda (1975). The comparisons indicate that the significant breaker height, based on Goda's model, is slightly conservative for the experimental cases; but the maximum breaker heights are reasonably predicted by the model. The design procedures in the SPM are based on a monochromatic wave breaking, and appear overly conservative, particularly for low wave steepness (less than 0.01) which occur frequently on the West Coast of the United States. The use of the Rayleigh distribution to predict wave height statistics is tested with random wave data for both deep and shallow water regions.

scholarly journals PROBABILITIES OF BREAKING WAVE CHARACTERISTICS

1970 ◽  
Vol 1 (12) ◽  
pp. 25 ◽  
Author(s):  
J. Ian Collins
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water ◽  
Probability Density ◽  
Deep Water ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Probability Distributions ◽  
Rayleigh Distribution ◽  
Breaking Wave ◽  
Wave Characteristics ◽  
Probability Densities ◽  
Wave Heights

Utilizing the hydrodynamic relationships for shoaling and refraction of waves approaching a shoreline over parallel bottom contours a procedure is developed to transform an arbitrary probability density of wave characteristics in deep water into the corresponding breaking characteristics in shallow Water A number of probability distributions for breaking wave characteristics are derived m terms of assumed deep water probability densities of wave heights wave lengths and angles of approach Some probability densities for wave heights at specific locations in the surf zone are computed for a Rayleigh distribution in deep water The probability computations are used to derive the expectation of energy flux and its distribution.

scholarly journals Trial Manufacture of the Breaking Wave Gauge and Measurement of Multi-Directional Random Wave Breaking

1998 ◽  
Vol 14 ◽  
pp. 161-166
Author(s):  
Koichiro Iwata ◽  
Naoto Kawasima ◽  
Tatuya Niimi ◽  
Takasi Tomita ◽  
Dong Soo Hur ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Random Wave ◽  
Breaking Wave

scholarly journals WAVE HEIGHT DISTRIBUTION IN CONSTANT AND FINITE DEPTHS

2012 ◽  
Vol 1 (33) ◽  
pp. 15 ◽  
Author(s):  
Sofia Caires ◽  
Marcel R.A. Van Gent
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Rayleigh Distribution ◽  
Height Distribution ◽  
High Wave ◽  
Wave Height Distribution ◽  
Individual Wave ◽  
Wave Heights

Several alternatives to the Rayleigh distribution have been proposed for describing individual wave heights in regions where depth-induced wave breaking occurs. The most widely used of these is the so-called Battjes and Groenendijk distribution. This distribution has been derived and validated in a context of a shallow water foreshore waves propagating over a gently sloping shallow region towards the shore. Its validity for waves propagating in regions with shallow flat bottoms is investigated here. It is concluded that the distribution on average underestimates (outside its range of validity) high wave height measurements in shallow flat bottoms by as much as 15%.

EXPERIMENTAL STUDY ON RANDOM WAVE PRESSURE AFTER WAVE BREAKING ACTING ON SEAWALL ON LAND SIDE OF SHORELINE

2018 ◽  
Vol 74 (2) ◽  
pp. I_1063-I_1068
Author(s):  
Kenya TAKAHASHI ◽  
Yu SOUMA ◽  
Toshimasa ISHII ◽  
Takeshi NISHIHATA ◽  
Takeru MICHIMAE ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Experimental Study ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Random Wave ◽  
Wave Pressure

scholarly journals Characteristics of Breaking Wave Forces on Piles over a Permeable Seabed

2021 ◽  
Vol 9 (5) ◽  
pp. 520
Author(s):  
Zhenyu Liu ◽  
Zhen Guo ◽  
Yuzhe Dou ◽  
Fanyu Zeng
Keyword(s):  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Stokes Equations ◽  
Slope Angle ◽  
Wave Force ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Offshore Wind ◽  
Secondary Wave ◽  
Wave Forces ◽  
Breaking Wave ◽  
Breaking Wave Forces

Most offshore wind turbines are installed in shallow water and exposed to breaking waves. Previous numerical studies focusing on breaking wave forces generally ignored the seabed permeability. In this paper, a numerical model based on Volume-Averaged Reynolds Averaged Navier–Stokes equations (VARANS) is employed to reveal the process of a solitary wave interacting with a rigid pile over a permeable slope. Through applying the Forchheimer saturated drag equation, effects of seabed permeability on fluid motions are simulated. The reliability of the present model is verified by comparisons between experimentally obtained data and the numerical results. Further, 190 cases are simulated and the effects of different parameters on breaking wave forces on the pile are studied systematically. Results indicate that over a permeable seabed, the maximum breaking wave forces can occur not only when waves break just before the pile, but also when a “secondary wave wall” slams against the pile, after wave breaking. With the initial wave height increasing, breaking wave forces will increase, but the growth can decrease as the slope angle and permeability increase. For inclined piles around the wave breaking point, the maximum breaking wave force usually occurs with an inclination angle of α = −22.5° or 0°.

scholarly journals Assessment of Numerical Methods for Plunging Breaking Wave Predictions

2021 ◽  
Vol 9 (3) ◽  
pp. 264
Author(s):  
Shanti Bhushan ◽  
Oumnia El Fajri ◽  
Graham Hubbard ◽  
Bradley Chambers ◽  
Christopher Kees
Keyword(s):  
Solitary Wave ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Large Scale ◽  
Turbulence Models ◽  
Navier Stokes ◽  
Wave Crest ◽  
Breaking Wave ◽  
Rans Turbulence Models ◽  
Run Up ◽  
Better Than

This study evaluates the capability of Navier–Stokes solvers in predicting forward and backward plunging breaking, including assessment of the effect of grid resolution, turbulence model, and VoF, CLSVoF interface models on predictions. For this purpose, 2D simulations are performed for four test cases: dam break, solitary wave run up on a slope, flow over a submerged bump, and solitary wave over a submerged rectangular obstacle. Plunging wave breaking involves high wave crest, plunger formation, and splash up, followed by second plunger, and chaotic water motions. Coarser grids reasonably predict the wave breaking features, but finer grids are required for accurate prediction of the splash up events. However, instabilities are triggered at the air–water interface (primarily for the air flow) on very fine grids, which induces surface peel-off or kinks and roll-up of the plunger tips. Reynolds averaged Navier–Stokes (RANS) turbulence models result in high eddy-viscosity in the air–water region which decays the fluid momentum and adversely affects the predictions. Both VoF and CLSVoF methods predict the large-scale plunging breaking characteristics well; however, they vary in the prediction of the finer details. The CLSVoF solver predicts the splash-up event and secondary plunger better than the VoF solver; however, the latter predicts the plunger shape better than the former for the solitary wave run-up on a slope case.

scholarly journals Laboratory experiments on CO2 gas exchange with wave breaking

2020 ◽  
Author(s):  
shuo li ◽  
Alexander V. Babanin ◽  
Fangli Qiao ◽  
Dejun Dai ◽  
Shumin Jiang ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Gas Exchange ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Laboratory Experiments ◽  
Co2 Gas ◽  
Co2 Gas Exchange

Morphological characterization of bicontinuous structures in polymer blends and microemulsions by the inverse-clipping method in the context of the clipped-random-wave model

2000 ◽  
Vol 61 (6) ◽  
pp. 6773-6780 ◽  
Author(s):  
Hiroshi Jinnai ◽  
Yukihiro Nishikawa ◽  
Sow-Hsin Chen ◽  
Satoshi Koizumi ◽  
Takeji Hashimoto
Keyword(s):  
Polymer Blends ◽  
Wave Model ◽  
Morphological Characterization ◽  
Random Wave

Incorporating wave-breaking data in the calibration of a Boussinesq-type wave model

2021 ◽  
pp. 103945
Author(s):  
Joaquin P. Moris ◽  
Patricio A. Catalán ◽  
Rodrigo Cienfuegos
Keyword(s):  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Wave Model ◽  
Type Wave
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