scholarly journals A PRE-DREDGING SAND MOBILITY STUDY USING A RADIOISOTOPE TRACER

1984 ◽  
Vol 1 (19) ◽  
pp. 138
Author(s):  
A. Davison

The wave-driven movement of sand across the alignment of a proposed navigation channel was investigated using radioactive chromium-51 labelled tracer sand. The mean particle velocity and thickness of the mobile layer were determined over a two-month period, and an annual infill rate estimated. Wave height and period were measured concurrently. Despite two storms, during which near-bed oscillating velocities of 1.5 m s-1 were calculated the sand transport at 10 m (BMWL) appears to occur within the wave boundary layer. Onshore transport in the direction of wave propagation, due to mass transport velocity and wave asymmetry effects, was easily identified. Tidal currents up to 1.2 m s-1 (at 3 m above bed) had less than the expected effect on the tracer dispersion pattern.

Author(s):  
M. S. Longuet-Higgins

ABSTRACTThe following theorems are proved for irrotational surface waves of finite amplitude in a uniform, incompressible fluid:(a) In any space-periodic motion (progressive or otherwise) in uniform depth, the mean square of the velocity is a decreasing function of the mean depth z below the surface. Hence the fluctuations in the mean pressure increase with z.(b) In any space-periodic motion in infinite depth, the particle motion tends to zero exponentially as z tends to infinity. The pressure fluctuations at great depths are therefore simultaneous, but they do not in general tend to zero.(c) In a progressive periodic wave in uniform depth the mass-transport velocity is a decreasing function of the mean depth of a particle below the free surface, and the tangent to the velocity profile is vertical at the bottom. This result conflicts with observations in wave tanks, and shows that the waves cannot be wholly irrotational.(d) Analogous results are proved for the solitary wave.


1966 ◽  
Vol 1 (10) ◽  
pp. 11 ◽  
Author(s):  
Arthur Brebner ◽  
J.A. Askew ◽  
S.W. Law

On the basis of non-viscous small amplitude firstorder theory the maximum value of the horizontal orbital motion at the bed in water of constant depth his given by /U/n yy* »* " r •»** */i where k = /L, H is the wave height crest to trough, T is the period, and L the wave length (L = Sry2jr Arf 2*%/L ). On the basis of finite amplitude wave theory where the particle orbits are not closed ana by the insertion of the viscous laminar boundary layer (the conducti6n solution) the mean drift velocity or mass transport velocity on a perfectly smooth bed is given by Longuet- Higgins (1952) as 7, K H* kcr where


1995 ◽  
Vol 297 ◽  
pp. 231-254 ◽  
Author(s):  
Jiangang Wen ◽  
Philip L.-F. Liu

Effects of viscous damping on mass transport velocity in a two-layer fluid system are studied. A temporally decaying small-amplitude interfacial wave is assumed to propagate in the fluids. The establishment and the decay of mean motions are considered as an initial-boundary-value problem. This transient problem is solved by using a Laplace transform with a numerical inversion. It is found that thin ‘second boundary layers’ are formed adjacent to the interfacial Stokes boundary layers. The thickness of these second boundary layers is of O(ε1/2) in the non-dimensional form, where ε is the dimensionless Stokes boundary layer thickness defined as $\epsilon = \hat{k}\hat{\delta}=\hat{k}(2\hat{v}/\hat{\sigma})^{1/2}$ for an interfacial wave with wave amplitude â, wavenumber $\hat{k}$ and frequency $\hat{\sigma}$ in a fluid with viscosity $\hat{v}$. Inside the second boundary layers there exists a strong steady streaming of O(α2ε−1/2), where $\alpha = \hat{k}\hat{a}$ is the surface wave slope. The mass transport velocity near the interface is much larger than that in a single-layer system, which is O(α2) (e.g. Longuet-Higgins 1953; Craik 1982). In the core regions outside the thin second boundary layers, the mass transport velocity is enhanced by the diffusion of the mean interfacial velocity and vorticity. Because of vertical diffusion and viscous damping of the mean interfacial vorticity, the ‘interfacial second boundary layers’ diminish as time increases. The mean motions eventually die out owing to viscous attenuation. The mass transport velocity profiles are very different from those obtained by Dore (1970, 1973) which ignored viscous attenuation. When a temporally decaying small-amplitude surface progressive wave is propagating in the system, the mean motions are found to be much less significant, O(α2).


1976 ◽  
Vol 76 (4) ◽  
pp. 819-828 ◽  
Author(s):  
B. D. Dore

The double-boundary-layer theory of Stuart (1963, 1966) and Riley (1965, 1967) is employed to investigate the mass transport velocity due to two-dimensional standing waves in a system comprising two homogeneous fluids of different densities and viscosities. The most important double-boundary-layer structure occurs in the neighbourhood of the oscillating interface, and the possible existence of jet-like motions is envisaged at nodal positions, owing to the nature of the mean flows in the layers. In practice, the magnitude of the mass transport velocity can be a significant fraction of that of the primary, oscillatory velocity.


1970 ◽  
Vol 1 (12) ◽  
pp. 40 ◽  
Author(s):  
Richard Silvester ◽  
Geoffrey R. Mogridge

The physiography of Continental Shelves and their major composition of sediment indicate strongly their terrigenous origin and their smoothing by wave action This premise is supported by the geologic time over which waves have existed and the mass-transport velocity in these relatively shallow depths, particularly the net movement within the wave boundary layer at the bed A given wave tram arriving obliquely to the shore can transport material along the coast, both beyond the breaker line and within the surf zone It is shown that for equal over-all discharge in the two zones, the average sediment concentration offshore close to the bed need be reasonably small, indicating that transport near the beach could be a fraction of that from the breakers to the reach of the waves This latter limit is shown to extend at least half way across the Shelf, with possibilities of greater reach when more realistic prototype conditions are introduced into experiments.


1994 ◽  
Vol 266 ◽  
pp. 121-145 ◽  
Author(s):  
Jiangang Wen ◽  
Philip L.-F. Liu

Mass transport under partially reflected waves in a rectangular channel is studied. The effects of sidewalls on the mass transport velocity pattern are the focus of this paper. The mass transport velocity is governed by a nonlinear transport equation for the second-order mean vorticity and the continuity equation of the Eulerian mean velocity. The wave slope, ka, and the Stokes boundary-layer thickness, k (ν/σ)½, are assumed to be of the same order of magnitude. Therefore convection and diffusion are equally important. For the three-dimensional problem, the generation of second-order vorticity due to stretching and rotation of a vorticity line is also included. With appropriate boundary conditions derived from the Stokes boundary layers adjacent to the free surface, the sidewalls and the bottom, the boundary value problem is solved by a vorticity-vector potential formulation; the mass transport is, in gneral, represented by the sum of the gradient of a scalar potential and the curl of a vector potential. In the present case, however, the scalar potential is trivial and is set equal to zero. Because the physical problem is periodic in the streamwise direction (the direction of wave propagation), a Fourier spectral method is used to solve for the vorticity, the scalar potential and the vector potential. Numerical solutions are obtained for different reflection coefficients, wave slopes, and channel cross-sectional geometry.


The mass transport velocity in water waves propagating over an elastic bed is investigated. Water is assumed to be incompressible and slightly viscous. The elastic bed is also incompressible and satisfies the Hooke’s law. For a small amplitude progressive wave perturbation solutions via a boundary-layer approach are obtained. Because the wave amplitude is usually larger than the viscous boundary layer thickness and because the free surface and the interface between water and the elastic bed are moving, an orthogonal curvilinear coordinate system (Longuet-Higgins 1953) is used in the analysis of free surface and interfacial boundary layers so that boundary conditions can be applied on the actual moving surfaces. Analytical solutions for the mass transport velocity inside the boundary layer adjacent to the elastic seabed and in the core region of the water column are obtained. The mass transport velocity above a soft elastic bed could be twice of that over a rigid bed in the shallow water.


2018 ◽  
Vol 841 ◽  
pp. 1-27 ◽  
Author(s):  
Leon Vanstone ◽  
Mustafa Nail Musta ◽  
Serdar Seckin ◽  
Noel Clemens

This study investigates the mean flow structure of two shock-wave boundary-layer interactions generated by moderately swept compression ramps in a Mach 2 flow. The ramps have a compression angle of either $19^{\circ }$ or $22.5^{\circ }$ and a sweep angle of $30^{\circ }$. The primary diagnostic methods used for this study are surface-streakline flow visualization and particle image velocimetry. The shock-wave boundary-layer interactions are shown to be quasi-conical, with the intermittent region, separation line and reattachment line all scaling in a self-similar manner outside of the inception region. This is one of the first studies to investigate the flow field of a swept ramp using particle image velocimetry, allowing more sensitive measurements of the velocity flow field than previously possible. It is observed that the streamwise velocity component outside of the separated flow reaches the quasi-conical state at the same time as the bulk surface flow features. However, the streamwise and cross-stream components within the separated flow take longer to recover to the quasi-conical state, which indicates that the inception region for these low-magnitude velocity components is actually larger than was previously assumed. Specific scaling laws reported previously in the literature are also investigated and the results of this study are shown to scale similarly to these related interactions. Certain limiting cases of the scaling laws are explored that have potential implications for the interpretation of cylindrical and quasi-conical scaling.


2018 ◽  
Vol 48 (5) ◽  
pp. 1079-1088 ◽  
Author(s):  
Alexander V. Babanin ◽  
Jason McConochie ◽  
Dmitry Chalikov

AbstractThe concept of a constant-flux layer is usually employed for vertical profiling of the wind measured at some elevation near the ocean surface. The surface waves, however, modify the balance of turbulent stresses very near the surface, and therefore such extrapolations can introduce significant biases. This is particularly true for buoy measurements in extreme conditions, when the anemometer mast is within the wave boundary layer (WBL) or even below the wave crests. In this paper, field data and a WBL model are used to investigate such biases. It is shown that near the surface the turbulent stresses are less than those obtained by extrapolation using the logarithmic-layer assumption, and the mean wind speeds very near the surface, based on Lake George field observations, are up to 5% larger. The behavior is then simulated by means of a WBL model coupled with nonlinear waves, which confirmed the observations and revealed further details of complex behaviors at the wind-wave boundary layer.


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