scholarly journals SUSPENDED SAND TRANSPORT ON A DISSIPATIVE BEACH

1984 ◽  
Vol 1 (19) ◽  
pp. 119 ◽  
Author(s):  
John P. Downing

Field studies were conducted in November 1979 to measure suspended sand transport on Twin Harbor Beach, Washington U.S.A. This beach has an average slope of 0.02 and is composed of well-sorted sand with a mean diameter of 0.21mm. The significant height of breaking swells approaching the beach at small angles can be estimated from variance spectra of water level by 4.36 0^. In the surf zone significant wave heights are linearly related to the local mean water depth by Y = H /h » 0.45. Variance, a \, in the gravity wave band (0.048 to 1.0 Hz) is proportional to water depth squared. Low-frequency variance (less than 0.048 Hz) although not systematically related to water depth, is usually largest in the inner surf zone where breakers are small. Sand suspension is correlated with strong offshore flows that recur at about one-fifth the incident wave frequency. Vertical mixing of sand in the water column by these water motions rather than turbulence generated by shear at the bed associated with individual wave oscillations is a key mechanism in sand transport on dissipative beaches. The largest sediment loads occur in the inner surf zone where lowfrequency motions dominate the breakers. Maximum longshore transport rates, however, were measured in the middle of the surf zone because of the higher longshore current speeds there. The suspended load probably accounts for as much as 45 percent of the litoral drift on a dissipative beach exposed to moderately-high swells approaching the shore at small angles.

2006 ◽  
Vol 33 (2) ◽  
pp. 35 ◽  
Author(s):  
ELÍRIO TOLDO JR ◽  
LUIZ ALMEIDA ◽  
LUCIANO ABSALONSEN ◽  
NELSON GRUBER

Zones of erosion and accretion were delimited by comparing a DGPS shoreline mapping in 1997 and the beach line reproduced from the army chart collection of 1975. The results show extensive shore retreat along of Rio Grande do Sul central coast, while accretion was observed in Mostardas and Dunas Altas beach. Mathematical estimative of the regional longshore transport potential along the Rio Grande do Sul coast, a 630-km long holocenic fine sand barrier, resulted in a large net northward annual sand volume. Additionally, the estimated potential of sediment transport based on the CERC formula predicts a substantial variation of the energy flux into the surf zone, due to little changes in shoreline alignments and in the potential alongshore sediment transport. The reduction in the sediment flux due to changes in the shoreline alignment produce a jam in the longshore transport, meaning that part of the sediment arriving from the upstream stretch may be deposited or diverted offshore by coastal jet. Based on that, it is possible that changes in the net longshore sand transport are responsible for the increase in the shoreface width from less than 1 km to more than 3 km in Mostardas beach and Dunas Altas beach. Interesting to note that wider dune fields are associated to those beaches where shoreface is also wider. In this way, the volume of longshore sand transport and the sediment jam provide by changes on shoreline alignment in Mostardas and Dunas Altas beaches are important for both coastal dune fields and shoreface width.


1988 ◽  
Vol 1 (21) ◽  
pp. 88 ◽  
Author(s):  
Nicholas C. Kraus ◽  
Kathryn J. Gingerich ◽  
Julie Dean Rosati

This paper presents results of two field experiments performed using portable traps to obtain point measurements of the longshore sand transport rate in the surf zone. The magnitude of the transport rate per unit width of surf zone is found to depend on the product of the local wave height and mean longshore current speed, but correlation is much improved by including two correction terms, one accounting for local wave energy dissipation and the other for the fluctuation in the longshore current. The field transport rates are also found to be compatible with laboratory rates obtained under combined unidirectional and oscillatory flow. Total transport rates previously reported for this experiment program are revised with recently determined sand trapping efficiencies.


2016 ◽  
Vol 142 (10) ◽  
pp. 04016040 ◽  
Author(s):  
Daniel G. Wren ◽  
Eddy J. Langendoen ◽  
Roger A. Kuhnle

1992 ◽  
Vol 17 (1-2) ◽  
pp. 49-70 ◽  
Author(s):  
R.C. Nelson ◽  
J. Gonsalves
Keyword(s):  

2007 ◽  
Vol 60 (1) ◽  
pp. 31-47 ◽  
Author(s):  
Brian Greenwood ◽  
Allana Permanand-Schwartz ◽  
Christopher A. Houser

Abstract Burley Beach (southeastern Lake Huron) exhibits a multi-barred shoreface, the long-term equilibrium morphology characteristic of many low angle, sandy beaches in the Canadian Great Lakes. During a single major storm, a new bar emerged 50-60 m offshore as an irregular trough-crest form, through differential erosion of an existing shore terrace. Emergence, bar growth and offshore migration were associated with: (a) an overall negative sediment balance in the inner surf zone initially (‑2.30 m3>/m beach width), but with a large positive sediment balance (+5.10 m3/m) subsequent to the storm peak and during the storm decay; (b) progradation of the beach step to produce a new shore terrace; and (c) offshore migration of the two outer bars to provide the accommodation space necessary for the new bar. The primary transport mechanisms accounting for emergence of the new bar, its growth and migration were: (a) the mean cross-shore currents (undertow), which always transported suspended sediment offshore; and (b) the onshore transport of suspended sediment by incident gravity wave frequencies early in the storm and subsequently by infragravity waves (at the storm peak and the decay period). The longshore transport of sediment was significant in terms of the gross transport, although the net result was only a small transport to the south-west (historic littoral transport direction). It did not cause bar initiation, but it may have supplied some of the sediment for bar growth. The primary mechanism for bar initiation and growth was the cross-shore displacement of sediment by wave-driven (oscillatory) transport and cross-shore mean currents (undertow).


Author(s):  
Arthur Mouragues ◽  
Philippe Bonneton ◽  
Bruno Castelle ◽  
Vincent Marieu

We present field measurements of nearshore currents at a high-energy mesotidal beach with the presence of a 500-m headland and a submerged reef. Small changes in wave forcing and tide elevation were found to largely impact circulation patterns. In particular, under 4-m oblique wave conditions, our measurements indicate the presence of an intense low-frequency fluctuating deflection rip flowing against the headland and extending well beyond the surf zone. An XBeach model is further set up to hindcast such flow patterns.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/EiqnjBIkWJE


1978 ◽  
Vol 1 (16) ◽  
pp. 105 ◽  
Author(s):  
Jay E. Leonard ◽  
Benno M. Brenninkmeyer

An array of electronic sensors was installed on Nauset Light Beach, Cape Cod, Massachusetts, U.S.A., in order to provide a description of the sediment movement during storm conditions. These sensors included two sediment concentration indicators (almometers) which monitor sediment movement as a function of elevation and time, one bidirectional electromagnetic current meter, and a resistive wave staff. Prior field studies performed during "normal" conditions have indicated that surf-zone suspended sediment movement is a low-frequency phenomenon, with the relatively high-frequency component (normal wave period) contributing little to the amount of total sediment transported. Development of a computational technique based upon discrete Fourier analysis and digital filtering called Spectrally Filtered Integration (SFI) provides the calculation and filtering of true units of sediment change in grams-per-liter. Moreover, the SFI technique eliminates the possibility spurious sediment information created by the presence of air bubbles in the water column. Generally, higher-frequency sediment movement is more common during storm conditions than during normal non-storm conditions. This movement is controlled not by the prevailing wave and swell periods, but by a longer period which may be due to water interactions below the surface.


Author(s):  
PING WANG

The shoreline of northern Colombia is located in the tropical zone along the south coast of Caribbean Sea. Its coastal processes are strongly influenced by the northeast trade wind, which results in the dominating northeasterly approaching wave occurring over 95% of the time. This drives a persistent southwestward longshore sand transport. The state of the beach along the generally northeast-southwest trending northern Colombia coast is strongly influenced by this constant unidirectional longshore sediment transport. At locations where this westward longshore sand transport is interrupted, naturally or  anthropogenically, beach accretion occurs along the updrift shoreline coupled with erosion at the downdrift side. Natural interruption of longshore transport can be caused by tidal inlets, protruding headland, shoreline orientation change, and nearshore bathymetry variations. Anthropogenic interruption of the longshore transport along the northern Colombia coast is mainly caused by the construction of groins, as well as harbors at some locations. Numerous groins were constructed due to their local success in creating beach accretion at the drift side. However, severe beach erosion occurs along the downdrift shoreline. Shoreline protection along the northern Colombia coast, and coasts in the tropical area in general, should carefully consider the persistent unidirectional longshore sand transport and should not be misguided by the local updrift accumulation as being a successful project.


Shore & Beach ◽  
2021 ◽  
pp. 36-54
Author(s):  
Jirat Laksanalamai ◽  
Nobuhisa Kobayashi

Sand beaches are essential for coastal tourism in Thailand, but erosion narrowed some beaches significantly over the years. Pattaya is a famous resort near Bangkok in the upper Gulf of Thailand. The Pattaya beach is microtidal with the average tidal range of 1.5 m. The average significant wave height is 0.2 m and the wave energy is low. The beach was widened by placing 130 m3/m of medium sand along the shoreline length of 2.8 km between two terminal groins constructed in 2018. The bathymetry and topography were measured in 2015, 2019, and 2020. Approximately 14% of the placed sand in the water depth less than 2 m was lost after one year, as may be expected for nourished beaches. The bathymetry change in the water depth of 2-4 m varied alongshore. The sand volume change in this offshore zone beyond the surf zone was as large as that in the landward sand placement zone. The assumption of negligible profile changes seaward of a closure depth is not applicable to this beach during 2015-2020.


2020 ◽  
Vol 90 (2) ◽  
pp. 250-267 ◽  
Author(s):  
Sergio A. Marenssi ◽  
Carlos O. Limarino ◽  
Laura J. Schencman ◽  
Patricia L. Ciccioli

ABSTRACT Two episodes of lacustrine sedimentation, separated by an erosional surface and fluvial sedimentation, took place in the southern part of the broken foreland Vinchina basin (NW Argentina) between 11 and 5 Ma. The lacustrine deposits, 768 and 740 meters thick, are recorded in the upper part of the Vinchina Formation (“Vinchina lake”) and the lower part of the Toro Formation (“Toro Negro lake”) respectively. According to sedimentological features, four sedimentary facies associations (FAs) are recognized in the lacustrine deposits: 1) thinly laminated mudstones facies association (FA 1), 2) coarsening- and thickening-upward muddy to sandy cycles (FA 2), 3) medium- to coarse-grained sandstones (FA 3), and 4) mudstones, sandstones, and oolitic limestones (FA 4). Altogether, these facies correspond to ephemeral, shallow, lacustrine systems including saline mudflats. The total thickness of each lacustrine interval, the thickness of the individual cycles and their lithology, and the overall aggradational facies arrangement suggest that both lakes developed during underfilled stages of the basin. The coarsening-upward cycles can be regarded as lacustrine parasequences representing cyclic episodes of expansion and contraction of the lake, but unlike marine parasequences these cycles do not correlate to water depth. The development of lacustrine conditions and continuous base-level rise, together with the coeval southward-directed paleoflow indicators, suggest axial drainages and that the basin was externally closed (endorheic) at that time. The large thicknesses of each lacustrine interval also points to high accommodation in the southern part of the Vinchina basin during these times. Lake filling cycles are one order of magnitude thicker than lake depth, so we postulate that subsidence (tectonic) and rise of the spill point (geomorphology) increased accommodation but not water depth. Thus, unlike marine parasequences, the analyzed coarsening-upward cycles do not correlate to water depth, but rather they are controlled by more complex basinal accommodation processes. We hypothesize that the coeval uplift of the Umango and Espinal basement block to the south, coupled with the initial doming of the Sierra de Los Colorados to the east, may have generated the damming of the southward-directed drainage and a zone of maximum accommodation, then controlling the location of the two lakes and the preservation of their thick sedimentary records. Therefore, localized accommodation was enhanced by a combination of tectonic subsidence and topographic growth. The two lacustrine intervals and the intervening fluvial deposits record changing contributions from axial to transverse drainages and different cycles of closed and open conditions in the basin. A low-frequency, closed to open and back to closed (axial to transverse and return to axial drainage) basin evolution, is envisaged by the development of the two lakes (closed stages) and the erosional surface followed by the interval of fluvial sedimentation that separates them (open stage). In addition, several high-frequency lake fluctuations (expansion–contraction) are represented by the coarsening-upward cycles within each lacustrine interval. The thick lacustrine intervals and their intermediate incision surfaces record cyclic filling and re-excavation stages and localized episodes of increased subsidence in the Vinchina basin, which seem to be a common feature of tectonically active broken foreland basins.


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