scholarly journals FIELD INVESTIGATION OF LONGSHORE TRANSPORT DISTRIBUTION

1982 ◽  
Vol 1 (18) ◽  
pp. 98 ◽  
Author(s):  
E.P. Berek ◽  
R.G. Dean
Keyword(s):  
Sediment Transport ◽  
Active Contours ◽  
Field Investigation ◽  
Wave Direction ◽  
Change Analysis ◽  
Incoming Wave ◽  
Longshore Sediment Transport ◽  
Longshore Transport ◽  
The Cross ◽  
Water Depths

Following a change in wave direction, the active contours in an idealized pocket beach respond by rotating such that they approach a perpendicular orientation relative to the incoming wave rays. Assuming that cross-shore sediment transport does not contribute to this contour rotation, and that the contours are in the early stages of this equilibration process, the amount of contour rotation can be interpreted as the cross-shore distribution of the longshore sediment transport. As part of the Nearshore Sediment Transport Study, detailed nearshore profile measurements were conducted at Santa Barbara, California. Twenty-two of these profile lines were located on Leadbetter Beach, which is a quasi-pocket beach. To explore the concept described above, two of the nine intersurvey periods were selected due to their strong indications of wave direction change. Analysis of these data sets yielded two estimates of cross-shore distribution of longshore sediment transport which were compared with those presented by Komar, Fulford and Tsuchiya. Although these three distributions differ significantly, the effect of the tidal variations is to "smear" the differences in the inferred distributions as evident in the contour displacements. It was found that none of the relationships for longshore transport distribution predicted the amount of transport inferred in water depths greater than one meter. It is possible, especially for one of the intersurvey periods that the changes in contour locations were so extreme that substantial crossshore sediment transport was induced and would be interpreted as longshore transport occurring in water depths greater than had actually occurred. The method introduced here should be useful in other field and laboratory programs to investigate the cross-shore distribution of longshore sediment transport.

scholarly journals FIELD INVESTIGATION OF BEACH PROFILE CHANGES AND THE ANALYSIS USING EMPIRICAL EIGENFUNCTIONS

1982 ◽  
Vol 1 (18) ◽  
pp. 84
Author(s):  
Hiroshi Hashimoto ◽  
Takaaki Uda
Keyword(s):  
Sediment Transport ◽  
Time Lag ◽  
Field Investigation ◽  
Sand Transport ◽  
Wave Direction ◽  
Beach Profile ◽  
Sand Waves ◽  
Longshore Sediment Transport ◽  
Profile Changes ◽  
Incident Waves

In order to investigate the response of beach profiles to incident waves, computations by the empirical eigenfunction analysis proposed by Winant et al. are performed. The analysis of the data obtained at Ajigaura Beach over three years from 1976 to 1979 indicates that beach profile changes due to longshore and onshore-offshore sediment transport are separable by the empirical eigenfunction method. The beach profile changes due to longshore sediment transport has a time lag of 12 weeks with respect to the change of wave direction at Ajigaura Beach. It was found theoretically that this time lag was due to the sand waves propagating in the longshore direction. Regarding as onshore-offshore sand transport, the second eigenfunction is associated with the beach changes due to onshore-offshore sand transport caused by the change of wave height.

scholarly journals LONGSHORE TRANSPORT AT A TOTAL LITTORAL BARRIER

1976 ◽  
Vol 1 (15) ◽  
pp. 70 ◽  
Author(s):  
Richard O. Bruno ◽  
Christopher G. Gable
Keyword(s):  
Sediment Transport ◽  
Accurate Determination ◽  
Coastal Engineering ◽  
Channel Islands ◽  
Shore Protection ◽  
Material Transport ◽  
Engineering Research ◽  
Longshore Sediment Transport ◽  
Longshore Transport

Analysis of longshore transport at a littoral barrier is presented. Channel Islands Harbor, California was selected as the study site because its offshore breakwater and jetties form a unique complete littoral barrier. Through repetitive surveys an accurate determination of longshore material transport in one direction was made. Measured transport rates ranged from 160,000 to 1,284,000 cubic meters per year. Utilizing visual observations of surf parameters, estimates of longshore wave thrust were computed. The range of wave thrust was 145 to 1,988 Newtons per meter. Comparison of the relation of wave thrust and longshore sediment transport is made. This study indicates that in an environment of high transport, nearly twice as much transport is predicted tinder corresponding wave thrust as that of the data summarized in the Coastal Engineering Research Center's Shore Protection Manual.

scholarly journals APPLICATION OF A SEMI-EMPIRICAL LONGSHORE TRANSPORT FORMULATION

2012 ◽  
Vol 1 (33) ◽  
pp. 22
Author(s):  
Giuseppe Barbaro ◽  
Giuseppe Roberto Tomasicchio ◽  
Giovanni Malara ◽  
Felice D'Alessandro
Keyword(s):  
Sediment Transport ◽  
Transport Rate ◽  
Sediment Transport Rate ◽  
Longshore Sediment Transport ◽  
Longshore Transport ◽  
Semi Empirical

The present paper deals with the determination of longshore sediment transport rate. Specifically, case study of Saline Joniche (Reggio Calabria, Italy, is discussed. This case is of interest because, in this location, an artificial basin was built in the 70’s. After few years, port entrance experienced total obstruction by sand. Actually, the area is abandoned and several projects have been proposed for revitalising port activities. This paper discusses a method for estimating the longshore sediment transport rate at Saline Joniche and complements previous methodology.

scholarly journals Nearshore Waves and Littoral Drift Along a Micro-Tidal Wave-Dominated Coast Having Comparable Wind-Sea and Swell Energy

2020 ◽  
Vol 8 (1) ◽  
pp. 55
Author(s):  
Jesbin George ◽  
V. Sanil Kumar ◽  
R. Gowthaman ◽  
Jai Singh
Keyword(s):  
Sediment Transport ◽  
Wave Model ◽  
Model Data ◽  
Wave Direction ◽  
Littoral Drift ◽  
Relative Contribution ◽  
Wave Parameters ◽  
Longshore Sediment Transport ◽  
Wind Sea ◽  
Small Change

The nearshore wave characteristics and variations in littoral drift (longshore sediment transport; LST) are estimated based on different approaches for four years along the Vengurla coast, with comparable wind-sea and swell energy assessed. The waverider buoy-measured data at 15 m water depth is utilized as the input wave parameters along with the reanalysis model data, and the numerical wave model Delft-3D is used for estimating the nearshore wave parameters. The relative contribution of wind-seas and swells on LST rates are specifically examined. The clear prevalence of west-southwest waves implies the prevalence of south to north longshore sediment transport with net transport varying from 0.19–0.37 × 105 m3/yr. LST is strongly dependent on the breaker angle and a small change in the wave direction substantially alters the LST, and hence reanalysis/model data with coarse resolutions produce large errors (~38%) in the LST estimate. The annual gross LST rate based on integral wave parameters is only 58% considering the wind-seas and swells separately, since the wind-sea energy is comparable to swell energy, and the direction of these two systems differs significantly.

scholarly journals LONGSHORE TRANSPORT EVALUATIONS AT A DETACHED BREAKWATER

1980 ◽  
Vol 1 (17) ◽  
pp. 86 ◽  
Author(s):  
R.O. Bruno ◽  
R.G. Dean ◽  
C.G. Gable
Keyword(s):  
Sediment Transport ◽  
Engineering Research ◽  
Pressure Transducers ◽  
Longshore Sediment Transport ◽  
Longshore Transport ◽  
Wave Energy Flux ◽  
Correlation Constant ◽  
Wave Induced ◽  
The Relationship ◽  
The Waves

A field experiment was conducted by the Coastal Engineering Research Center (CERC) to develop correlations between wave characteristics and longshore sediment transport. The waves were measured by two near-bottom mounted pressure transducers and the average longshore sediment transport rates were determined from sequential volumetric surveys behind an offshore breakwater which was regarded as a total trap. The data analyzed herein encompass a period of nine months during which a total accumulation of 675,000 m3 occurred as documented by eight surveys. Spectral analyses of the wave data were conducted and yielded one direction per frequency. The correlations include immersed weight sediment transport rate, I, versus (1) longshore component of wave energy flux at breaking, P&Sf and (2) the onshore flux of the longshore component of wave-induced momentum, S „. The most widely used correlation constant, K, in the relationship I = KPjig is 0,77. The best-fit values found from the data were K = 0.65 and 0.92 for linear and log best-fits, respectively, as based on the p£s values directed toward the trap. The corresponding values of KA (dimensional) relating I and Sxv are 4.98 m/s and 6.37 m/s, respectively. One feature of this type of trap is the potential for overtrapping if the waves are directed nearly normal to shore.

scholarly journals LONGSHORE SEDIMENT TRANSPORT RATE vs. CROSS - SHORE DISTRIBUTION OF SEDIMENT GRAIN SIZES

1988 ◽  
Vol 1 (21) ◽  
pp. 145
Author(s):  
C.I. Moutzouris
Keyword(s):  
Grain Size ◽  
Sediment Transport ◽  
Transport Rate ◽  
Longshore Current ◽  
Sediment Grain Size ◽  
Grain Sizes ◽  
Sediment Transport Rate ◽  
Power Equation ◽  
Longshore Sediment Transport ◽  
The Cross

Existing models for longshore sediment transport rate computations assume the sediment grain size and grain sizerelated parameters to be uniform in both the cross-shore and longshore directions. Field results from tideless beaches, which are briefly described in the paper, show that the latter change in both directions due to changing wave energylevels. The sensitivity analysis described in the paper shows that both longshore current and transport rate computations are sensitive to the cross-shore changes in grain size.Finally, a modified linearity coefficient for the wave power equation is proposed based upon the cross-shore distributions of grain size as found in nature.

scholarly journals LONGSHORE TRANSPORT DETERMINED BY AN EFFICIENT TRAP

1982 ◽  
Vol 1 (18) ◽  
pp. 60 ◽  
Author(s):  
R.G. Dean ◽  
E.P. Berek ◽  
C.G. Gable ◽  
R.J. Seymour
Keyword(s):  
Sediment Transport ◽  
Field Component ◽  
Santa Barbara ◽  
Wave Characteristics ◽  
Nearshore Sediment Transport ◽  
Longshore Sediment Transport ◽  
Longshore Transport ◽  
Correlation Constant ◽  
The Relationship ◽  
Best Fit

The Nearshore Sediment Transport Study (NSTS), sponsored by the National Sea Grant Office included a field component to quantify the total longshore sediment transport relationship. This component was conducted at Santa Barbara, California and encompassed a period of eighteen months during which ten surveys were conducted. To date, eight of these surveys have been analyzed, yielding seven intersurvey periods. A total of 288,600 m3 of net sediment transport was documented by these eight surveys. The wave characteristics are based on one of two Sxy gages located in a water depth of 7 m. The most widely used correlation constant, K, in the relationship I = KP, is 0.77. The values found from the data were 0.93 and 1.23 for linear and log best-fit values, respectively. The corresponding values of K4 relating I and S are 2.60 and 2.63 m/s, respectively.

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