scholarly journals WATER WAVES PROPAGATING ON BEACHES OF ARBITRARY SHAPE

1982 ◽  
Vol 1 (18) ◽  
pp. 51
Author(s):  
Y.Y. Chen ◽  
H.H. Hwung
Keyword(s):  
Water Waves ◽  
Small Amplitude ◽  
Arbitrary Shape ◽  
Water Surface ◽  
Wave Motion ◽  
Progressive Wave ◽  
Amplitude Wave ◽  
Theoretical Derivation ◽  
Beach Slope ◽  
Sloping Beach

When a small amplitude wave climbing along an arbitrary sloping beach from deep water toward the shore, the variation of characteristics in the process of wave motion has been described in this paper. From the results of theoretical derivation, it is found out that the variation of water surface and amplitude are function of beach slope) and dimensionless distance (kx~) from the shore. And under the condition of the beach slope is a = 0 and a = °o that the solution will become a progressive wave and a standing wave respectively.

scholarly journals KINEMATICS AND RETURN FLOW IN A CLOSED WAVE FLUME

1988 ◽  
Vol 1 (21) ◽  
pp. 31 ◽  
Author(s):  
Jerald D. Ramsden ◽  
John H. Nath
Keyword(s):  
Water Waves ◽  
Water Surface ◽  
Large Scale ◽  
Wave Motion ◽  
Finite Amplitude ◽  
Return Flow ◽  
Order Stream ◽  
Wave Flume ◽  
Seventh Order ◽  
Surface Measurements

Stokes (1847) showed that finite amplitude progressing waves cause a net drift of fluid, in the direction of wave motion, which occurs in the upper portion of the water column. In a closed wave flume this drift must be accompanied by a return flow toward the wave generator to satisfy the conservation of mass. This study presents Eulerian velocity and water surface measurements soon after the onset of wave motion from 12 locations in a large scale flume. Waves with .67 < kh < 2.29 and .09 < H/h < .39 were produced in a water depth of 3.5 meters. Superimposing the return flow theory of Kim (1984) with seventh order stream function theory is shown to improve the velocity predictions. The measured return flows are a function of time and depth and agree with Kim's theory as a first approximation. The mean water surface set-down agrees with the theory of Brevik (1979) except for the nearly deep water waves.

scholarly journals THE SPIRAL WAVEMAKER FOR LITTORAL DRIFT STUDIES

1972 ◽  
Vol 1 (13) ◽  
pp. 34 ◽  
Author(s):  
Robert A. Dalrymple ◽  
Robert G. Dean
Keyword(s):  
Water Waves ◽  
Small Amplitude ◽  
Angle Of Incidence ◽  
Long Beach ◽  
Shallow Water Waves ◽  
Littoral Drift ◽  
Amplitude Wave ◽  
End Effects ◽  
Small Circle ◽  
Theoretical Developments

A technique for simulating an infinitely long beach in the laboratory is introduced, with the objective of eliminating end effects usually present with short straight beach sections. The technique involves the spiral wavemaker generating waves in the center of a circular basin. The wavemaker, consisting of a vertical right-circular cylinder oscillating in a small circle about its axis, is described in detail. Theoretical developments, using small-amplitude wave assumptions, show that the surface wave crests generated by the wavemaker may be described, at a particular time, as an Archimedian-type of spiral, with the wavemaker at its origin. Also, the crests impinge on the circular beach everywhere at the same angle of incidence. Experiments with a prototype spiral wavemaker verify the theory, with close results for shallow water waves. Littoral drift applications of the wavemaker are given.

Forced small-amplitude water waves: a comparison of theory and experiment

1960 ◽  
Vol 7 (1) ◽  
pp. 33-52 ◽  
Author(s):  
F. Ursell ◽  
R. G. Dean ◽  
Y. S. Yu
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Small Amplitude ◽  
Experimental Error ◽  
Wave Motion ◽  
Wave Theory ◽  
Finite Amplitude ◽  
Uniform Density ◽  
Wave Channel ◽  
Wave Heights

This paper describes an attempt to verify experimentally the wavemaker theory for a piston-type wavemaker. The theory is based upon the usual assumptions of classical hydrodynamics, i.e. that the fluid is inviscid, of uniform density, that motion starts from rest, and that non-linear terms are neglected. If the water depth, wavelength, wave period, and wavemaker stroke (of a harmonically oscillating wavemaker) are known, then the wavemaker theory predicts the wave motion everywhere, and in particular the wave height a few depths away from the wavemaker.The experiments were conducted in a 100 ft. wave channel, and the wave-height envelope was measured with a combination hook-and-point gauge. A plane beach (sloping 1:15) to absorb the wave energy was located at the far end of the channel. The amplitude-reflexion coefficient was usually less than 10%. Unless this reflexion effect is corrected for, it imposes one of the most serious limitations upon experimental accuracy. In the analysis of the present set of measurements, the reflexion effect is taken into account.The first series of tests was concerned with verifying the wavemaker theory for waves of small steepness (0.002 ≤ H/L ≤ 0.03). For this range of wave steepnesses, the measured wave heights were found to be on the average 3.4% below the height predicted by theory. The experimental error, as measured by the scatter about aline 3.4% below the theory, was of the order of 3%. The systematic deviation of 3.4% is believed to be partly due to finite-amplitude effects and possibly to imperfections in the wavemaker motion.The second series of tests was concerned with determining the effects of finite amplitude. For therange of wave steepnesses 0.045 ≤ H/L ≤ 0.048, themeasured wave heights were found to be on the average 10% below the heightspredictedfrom the small-amplitude theory. The experimental error was again of the order of 3%.It is considered that these measurements confirm the validity of the small-amplitude wave theory. No confirmation of this accuracy has hitherto been given for forced motions.

The propagation of capillary-gravity waves on a clean water surface

1981 ◽  
Vol 108 ◽  
pp. 127-131 ◽  
Author(s):  
John C. Scott
Keyword(s):  
Gravity Waves ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Small Amplitude ◽  
Water Surface ◽  
Hydrodynamic Theory ◽  
Clean Water ◽  
Clean Surface ◽  
Frequency Range ◽  
Good Agreement

Measurements are reported on the wavelength of small-amplitude water waves in a parallel-sided channel, covering the frequency range 2 to 10 Hz. Clean-surface techniques were employed in the experiments, and the results show good agreement with the predictions of linearized hydrodynamic theory.

Wave propagation in a partilly-ionized chemically-reacting plasma

1973 ◽  
Vol 9 (3) ◽  
pp. 349-365 ◽  
Author(s):  
Ta-Ming Fang ◽  
Howard R. Baum†
Keyword(s):  
Wave Propagation ◽  
Chemical Reactions ◽  
Small Amplitude ◽  
Wave Motion ◽  
Dominant Role ◽  
Amplitude Wave ◽  
Longitudinal Waves ◽  
Long Wavelength ◽  
Chemically Reacting ◽  
Frozen Plasma

Multi-fluid equations derived in a previous paper are used to study small- amplitude wave motion in a partially ionized chemically-reacting plasma. The plasma is assumed to be infinite and without external fields. The dispersion equations are derived and solved both numerically and analytically for several limiting cases. The effects of chemical reactions have been explicitly obtained. It is found that at the long-wavelength limit, the ionization and recombination terms play the dominant role for the damping of certain longitudinal waves even for a nearly frozen plasma.

scholarly journals Glacial lake outburst caused by small amplitude wave overflow

2021 ◽  
Vol 643 ◽  
pp. 012078
Author(s):  
Baoliang Wang ◽  
Hongfei Wang ◽  
Zhenguo Yao
Keyword(s):  
Small Amplitude ◽  
Glacial Lake ◽  
Amplitude Wave

Shallow water wave generation by unsteady flow

1968 ◽  
Vol 31 (4) ◽  
pp. 779-788 ◽  
Author(s):  
J. E. Ffowcs Williams ◽  
D. L. Hawkings
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Water Wave ◽  
Small Amplitude ◽  
Point Of View ◽  
Sound Waves ◽  
Aerodynamic Sound ◽  
Shallow Layer ◽  
Sound Theory ◽  
Water Simulation

Small amplitude waves on a shallow layer of water are studied from the point of view used in aerodynamic sound theory. It is shown that many aspects of the generation and propagation of water waves are similar to those of sound waves in air. Certain differences are also discussed. It is concluded that shallow water simulation can be employed in the study of some aspects of aerodynamically generated sound.

Thermoelastic Small-Amplitude Wave Propagation in Nonlinear Elastic Multilayers

2004 ◽  
Vol 9 (5) ◽  
pp. 555-568 ◽  
Author(s):  
Massimiliano Gei ◽  
Davide Bigoni ◽  
Giulia Franceschni
Keyword(s):  
Wave Propagation ◽  
Small Amplitude ◽  
Amplitude Wave ◽  
Nonlinear Elastic
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