scholarly journals EFFECT OF WAVE-CURRENT INTERACTION ON THE WAVE PARAMETER

1982 ◽  
Vol 1 (18) ◽  
pp. 28
Author(s):  
Yu-Cheng Li ◽  
John B. Herbich
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Wave Length ◽  
Wave Theory ◽  
Length Change ◽  
Numerical Calculations ◽  
Wave Parameter ◽  
Linear Wave ◽  
Linear Wave Theory ◽  
Wide Range ◽  
Non Linear

The interaction of a gravity wave with a steady uniform current is described in this paper. Numerical calculations of the wave length change by different non-linear wave theories show that errors in the results computed by the linear wave theory are less than 10 percent within the range of 0.15 < d/Ls s 0.40, 0.01 < Hs/Ls < 0.07 and -0.15 < U/Cs i 0.30. Numerical calculations of wave height change employing different wave theories show that errors in the results obtained by the linear wave theory in comparison with the non-linear theories are greater when the opposing relative current and wave steepness become larger. However, within range of the following currents such errors will not be significant. These results were verified by model tests. Nomograms for the modification of wave length and wave height by the linear wave theory and Stokes1 third order theory are presented for a wide range of d/Ls, Hs/Ls and U/C. These nomograms provide the design engineer with a practical guide for estimating wave lengths and heights affected by currents.

scholarly journals Dynamics of Wave Setup over a Steeply Sloping Fringing Reef

2015 ◽  
Vol 45 (12) ◽  
pp. 3005-3023 ◽  
Author(s):  
Mark L. Buckley ◽  
Ryan J. Lowe ◽  
Jeff E. Hansen ◽  
Ap R. Van Dongeren
Keyword(s):  
Wave Theory ◽  
Water Levels ◽  
Wave Radiation ◽  
Linear Wave ◽  
Radiation Stress ◽  
Wave Setup ◽  
Fringing Reef ◽  
Linear Wave Theory ◽  
Stress Gradients ◽  
Wide Range

AbstractHigh-resolution observations from a 55-m-long wave flume were used to investigate the dynamics of wave setup over a steeply sloping reef profile with a bathymetry representative of many fringing coral reefs. The 16 runs incorporating a wide range of offshore wave conditions and still water levels were conducted using a 1:36 scaled fringing reef, with a 1:5 slope reef leading to a wide and shallow reef flat. Wave setdown and setup observations measured at 17 locations across the fringing reef were compared with a theoretical balance between the local cross-shore pressure and wave radiation stress gradients. This study found that when radiation stress gradients were calculated from observations of the radiation stress derived from linear wave theory, both wave setdown and setup were underpredicted for the majority of wave and water level conditions tested. These underpredictions were most pronounced for cases with larger wave heights and lower still water levels (i.e., cases with the greatest setdown and setup). Inaccuracies in the predicted setdown and setup were improved by including a wave-roller model, which provides a correction to the kinetic energy predicted by linear wave theory for breaking waves and produces a spatial delay in the wave forcing that was consistent with the observations.

The Average Shape of Large Waves in the Norwegian Sea: Is Non-Linear Physics Important?

2019 ◽  
Author(s):  
Tianning Tang ◽  
Margaret J. Yelland ◽  
Thomas A. A. Adcock
Keyword(s):  
Field Data ◽  
Wave Theory ◽  
Linear Wave ◽  
Wave Problem ◽  
Linear Dispersion ◽  
Norwegian Sea ◽  
Linear Wave Theory ◽  
Average Shape ◽  
Non Linear ◽  
Average Wave

Abstract Linear wave theory predicts that in a random sea, the shape of the average wave is given by the scaled autocorrelation function — the “NewWave”. However, the gravity wave problem is non-linear. Numerical simulations of waves on deep water have suggested that their average shape can become modified in a number of ways, including the largest wave in a group tending to move to the front of the group through non-linear dispersion. In this paper we examine whether this occurs for waves in the Norwegian Sea. Field data measured from the weather ship Polarfront is analysed for the period 2000 to 2009. We find that, at this location, the effect of non-linearity is small due to the moderate steepness of the sea-states.

scholarly journals Wave Energy Potential and Simulation on the Andaman Sea Coast of Thailand

2020 ◽  
Vol 12 (9) ◽  
pp. 3657 ◽  
Author(s):  
Chutipat Foyhirun ◽  
Duangrudee Kositgittiwong ◽  
Chaiwat Ekkawatpanit
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Wave Energy ◽  
Measurement Data ◽  
Wave Theory ◽  
Andaman Sea ◽  
Linear Wave ◽  
Energy Potential ◽  
Significant Wave ◽  
Linear Wave Theory ◽  
Swan Model

Ocean wave energy is an interesting renewable energy because it will never run out and can be available all the time. If the wave energy is to be used, then the feasibility study of localized wave potential has to be studied. This goal is to study the potential of waves in the Andaman Sea. The Simulating WAves Nearshore (SWAN) model was used to calculate the significant wave heights, which were validated with the measurement data of the Jason-2 satellite. The coastal area of Phuket and Phang Nga provinces are suitable locations for studying wave energy converters because they have high significant wave height. Moreover, this study used computational fluid dynamics (CFD) for the simulation of wave behavior in accordance with wave parameters from the SWAN model. The wave height simulated from CFD was validated with linear wave theory. The results found that it was in good agreement with linear wave theory. It can be applied for a simulation of the wave energy converter.

Schumpeterian dynamics as a non-linear wave theory

1991 ◽  
Vol 20 (6) ◽  
pp. 551-590 ◽  
Author(s):  
Gennadi M. Henkin ◽  
Victor M. Polterovich
Keyword(s):  
Wave Theory ◽  
Linear Wave ◽  
Linear Wave Theory ◽  
Non Linear ◽  
Schumpeterian Dynamics
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