scholarly journals NEARSHORE SUSPENDED SEDIMENT LOAD DURING STORM AND POSXTSTORM CONDITIONS

1980 ◽  
Vol 1 (17) ◽  
pp. 70
Author(s):  
Timothy W. Kana ◽  
Larry G. Ward
Keyword(s):  
Suspended Sediment ◽  
Energy Flux ◽  
Wave Energy ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Field Research ◽  
Bulk Water ◽  
Total Load ◽  
Zone Width ◽  
Longshore Transport ◽  
Wave Energy Flux

As part of the DUCK-X experiment at the CERC field research facility at Duck, North Carolina in September, 1978, suspended sediment measurements were made along the CERC pier. In situ bulk water samples were collected during a moderate northeast storm and two days later during post-storm wave conditions. Concentrations varied from approximately 0.01 g/1 to over 10.0 g/1. Vertical arrays of suspended sediment samples indicated that concentration decreases rapidly up to two meters above the bed, then remains relatively constant, reflecting the nature of the suspension; intermittent suspension of sand near the bed, and continuous washload higher in the water column. Concentrations were at a maximum during storm conditions when measured values were 3 to 5 times higher than during non-storm conditions. The total load of sediment in a pier cross section during sampling periods in storm and post^storm conditions was calculated from arrays of 49 samples each. With H1/3 exceeding 2.3 HI and the surf zone width over 300 m during the storm, the total load of sediment in suspension was approximately 10 times higher than during poststorm conditions (Hi 73 - 1.2 m and surf zone width approximately 100 m) . Estimates of the longshore flux of suspended sediment indicate that as much as 60 times more sediment was transported during storm than during post-storm conditions. Longshore transport of sediment measured from 5 cm above the bed to the surface reached the equivalent of 22,330 m^/day. This value corresponds very closely to longshore transport predicted from wave energy flux. During post-storm conditions, on the other hand, transport of suspended sediment accounts for less than one-third of the transport predicted from wave energy flux.

scholarly journals LABORATORY TESTS OF LONGSHORE TRANSPORT

1970 ◽  
Vol 1 (12) ◽  
pp. 55 ◽  
Author(s):  
John C. Fairchild
Keyword(s):  
Energy Flux ◽  
Wave Energy ◽  
Current Transport ◽  
Longshore Current ◽  
Constant Depth ◽  
Flux Transport ◽  
Longshore Transport ◽  
Median Diameter ◽  
Wave Energy Flux ◽  
Made In

Tests were made in CERC's Shore Processes Test Basin witlt wayes approaching the toe of a test beach at a 30-degree angle Beach material was quartz sand with median diameter of 0 22 millimeter which, in most tests, was molded to a 1 on 10 slope before starting a test Long crested waves generated in a constant depth of 2 33 feet traveled over the beach, shoaled and were refracted before breaking near the shoreline The breaking action caused the sand to be transported along the shore in the direction of the longshore component of the wave energy flux Transport rates of 2 to 170 cubic yards per day were measured, with the lower rate within the range of laboratory rates reported by Savage^and the higher rate comparable to field rates reported by Watts^for South Lake Worth Inlet, Florida Analysis includes correlation of the measured rates to the longshore wave energy flux, and in some tests, to the longshore current Transport rates, defined by visual fit curve of the data, are about 3 times the rates indicated by the CERC TR-4 design curve for a longshore energy range of 0 016 to 0 760 millions of foot pounds per foot of shore per day.

scholarly journals Joint Modelling of Wave Energy Flux and Wave Direction

Processes ◽  
2021 ◽  
Vol 9 (3) ◽  
pp. 460
Author(s):  
Takvor H. Soukissian ◽  
Flora E. Karathanasi
Keyword(s):  
Energy Flux ◽  
Wave Energy ◽  
Goodness Of Fit ◽  
North Atlantic Ocean ◽  
Wave Climate ◽  
Western Mediterranean ◽  
Wave Direction ◽  
Bivariate Model ◽  
The North ◽  
Wave Energy Flux

In the context of wave resource assessment, the description of wave climate is usually confined to significant wave height and energy period. However, the accurate joint description of both linear and directional wave energy characteristics is essential for the proper and detailed optimization of wave energy converters. In this work, the joint probabilistic description of wave energy flux and wave direction is performed and evaluated. Parametric univariate models are implemented for the description of wave energy flux and wave direction. For wave energy flux, conventional, and mixture distributions are examined while for wave direction proven and efficient finite mixtures of von Mises distributions are used. The bivariate modelling is based on the implementation of the Johnson–Wehrly model. The examined models are applied on long-term measured wave data at three offshore locations in Greece and hindcast numerical wave model data at three locations in the western Mediterranean, the North Sea, and the North Atlantic Ocean. A global criterion that combines five individual goodness-of-fit criteria into a single expression is used to evaluate the performance of bivariate models. From the optimum bivariate model, the expected wave energy flux as function of wave direction and the distribution of wave energy flux for the mean and most probable wave directions are also obtained.

scholarly journals Emergence and Migration of a Nearshore Bar: Sediment Flux and Morphological Change on a Multi-Barred Beach in the Great Lakes

2007 ◽  
Vol 60 (1) ◽  
pp. 31-47 ◽  
Author(s):  
Brian Greenwood ◽  
Allana Permanand-Schwartz ◽  
Christopher A. Houser
Keyword(s):  
Great Lakes ◽  
Suspended Sediment ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Sandy Beaches ◽  
Sediment Flux ◽  
Accommodation Space ◽  
Longshore Transport ◽  
Sediment Balance ◽  
And Migration ◽  
Equilibrium Morphology

Abstract Burley Beach (southeastern Lake Huron) exhibits a multi-barred shoreface, the long-term equilibrium morphology characteristic of many low angle, sandy beaches in the Canadian Great Lakes. During a single major storm, a new bar emerged 50-60 m offshore as an irregular trough-crest form, through differential erosion of an existing shore terrace. Emergence, bar growth and offshore migration were associated with: (a) an overall negative sediment balance in the inner surf zone initially (‑2.30 m3>/m beach width), but with a large positive sediment balance (+5.10 m3/m) subsequent to the storm peak and during the storm decay; (b) progradation of the beach step to produce a new shore terrace; and (c) offshore migration of the two outer bars to provide the accommodation space necessary for the new bar. The primary transport mechanisms accounting for emergence of the new bar, its growth and migration were: (a) the mean cross-shore currents (undertow), which always transported suspended sediment offshore; and (b) the onshore transport of suspended sediment by incident gravity wave frequencies early in the storm and subsequently by infragravity waves (at the storm peak and the decay period). The longshore transport of sediment was significant in terms of the gross transport, although the net result was only a small transport to the south-west (historic littoral transport direction). It did not cause bar initiation, but it may have supplied some of the sediment for bar growth. The primary mechanism for bar initiation and growth was the cross-shore displacement of sediment by wave-driven (oscillatory) transport and cross-shore mean currents (undertow).

Horizontal energy flux of wind-driven intraseasonal waves in the tropical Atlantic by a unified diagnosis

2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
Qingyang Song ◽  
Hidenori Aiki
Keyword(s):  
Energy Flux ◽  
Wave Energy ◽  
Horizontal Distribution ◽  
Kelvin Waves ◽  
Asymmetric Distribution ◽  
Central Basin ◽  
Tropical Atlantic ◽  
Equatorial Wave ◽  
Wave Energy Flux ◽  
Velocity Anomalies

AbstractIntraseasonal waves in the tropical Atlantic Ocean have been found to carry prominent energy that affects interannual variability of zonal currents. This study investigates energy transfer and interaction of wind-driven intraseasonal waves using single-layer model experiments. Three sets of wind stress forcing at intraseasonal periods of around 30 days, 50 days and 80 days with a realistic horizontal distribution are employed separately to excite the second baroclinic mode in the tropical Atlantic. A unified scheme for calculating the energy flux, previously approximated and used for the diagnosis of annual Kelvin and Rossby waves, is utilized in the present study in its original form for intraseasonal waves. Zonal velocity anomalies by Kelvin waves dominate the 80-day scenario. Meridional velocity anomalies by Yanai waves dominate the 30-day scenario. In the 50-day scenario, the two waves have comparable magnitudes. The horizontal distribution of wave energy flux is revealed. In the 30-day and 50-day scenarios, a zonally alternating distribution of cross-equatorial wave energy flux is found. By checking an analytical solution excluding Kelvin waves, we confirm that the cross-equatorial flux is caused by the meridional transport of geopotential at the equator. This is attributed to the combination of Kelvin and Yanai waves and leads to the asymmetric distribution of wave energy in the central basin. Coastally-trapped Kelvin waves along the African coast are identified by along-shore energy flux. In the north, the bend of the Guinea coast leads the flux back to the equatorial basin. In the south, the Kelvin waves strengthened by local wind transfer the energy from the equatorial to Angolan regions.

scholarly journals Another Note on Rossby Wave Energy Flux

2020 ◽  
Vol 50 (2) ◽  
pp. 531-534
Author(s):  
Theodore S. Durland ◽  
J. Thomas Farrar
Keyword(s):  
Group Velocity ◽  
Energy Flux ◽  
Rossby Wave ◽  
Wave Energy ◽  
Energy Equation ◽  
Divergent Part ◽  
Pressure Work ◽  
Wave Energy Flux ◽  
The Difference ◽  
Definition Of

AbstractLonguet-Higgins in 1964 first pointed out that the Rossby wave energy flux as defined by the pressure work is not the same as that defined by the group velocity. The two definitions provide answers that differ by a nondivergent vector. Longuet-Higgins suggested that the problem arose from ambiguity in the definition of energy flux, which only impacts the energy equation through its divergence. Numerous authors have addressed this issue from various perspectives, and we offer one more approach that we feel is more succinct than previous ones, both mathematically and conceptually. We follow the work described by Cai and Huang in 2013 in concluding that there is no need to invoke the ambiguity offered by Longuet-Higgins. By working directly from the shallow-water equations (as opposed to the more involved quasigeostrophic treatment of Cai and Huang), we provide a concise derivation of the nondivergent pressure work and demonstrate that the two energy flux definitions are equivalent when only the divergent part of the pressure work is considered. The difference vector comes from the nondivergent part of the geostrophic pressure work, and the familiar westward component of the Rossby wave group velocity comes from the divergent part of the geostrophic pressure work. In a broadband wave field, the expression for energy flux in terms of a single group velocity is no longer meaningful, but the expression for energy flux in terms of the divergent pressure work is still valid.

scholarly journals Probabilistic forecasting of the wave energy flux

2012 ◽  
Vol 93 ◽  
pp. 364-370 ◽  
Author(s):  
P. Pinson ◽  
G. Reikard ◽  
J.-R. Bidlot
Keyword(s):  
Energy Flux ◽  
Wave Energy ◽  
Probabilistic Forecasting ◽  
Wave Energy Flux

scholarly journals SURF ZONE MEASUREMENTS OF SUSPENDED SEDIMENT

1978 ◽  
Vol 1 (16) ◽  
pp. 104 ◽  
Author(s):  
Timothy W. Kana
Keyword(s):  
South Carolina ◽  
Suspended Sediment ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Sediment Concentration ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Bulk Water ◽  
Scatter Plots ◽  
Water Volumes ◽  
Spilling Breakers

Suspended sediment concentration was measured in approximately 250 breaking waves on undeveloped beaches near Price Inlet, South Carolina, U.S.A., using portable in situ bulk water samplers. As many as 10 instantaneous 2-liter water volumes were obtained in each wave for a total of 1500 samples. Concentrations of suspended sediment were determined at fixed intervals of 10, 30, 60 and 100 cm above the bed for various surf zone positions relative to the breakpoint. The majority of waves sampled during 22 days in June and July, 1977 were relatively long crested, smooth, spilling to plunging in form, with breaker heights ranging from 20 to 150 cm. Surf zone process variables measured included breaker height and depth, breaker type, wave period, surface longshore current velocity, wind velocity and direction. Scatter plots of mean concentration against various process parameters indicate the amount of sediment entrained in breaking waves is primarily a function of elevation above the bed, breaker type, breaker height and distance from the breakpoint. Concentration ranged over 3 orders of magnitude up to 10 gm/1, but varied less than 1 order for samples collected under similar conditions with regard to elevation and breaker type. Plunging breakers generally entrain 1 order more sediment than spilling breakers equal in height. Despite considerable scatter, these data indicate concentration decreases with increasing wave height for waves 50 to 150 cm high, suggesting that small waves can be important in the transport of sand on gently-sloping open coasts.

Measurements of the wind-wave energy flux in an opposing wind

1985 ◽  
Vol 151 (-1) ◽  
pp. 427 ◽  
Author(s):  
Ian R. Young ◽  
Rodney J. Sobey
Keyword(s):  
Energy Flux ◽  
Wave Energy ◽  
Wind Wave ◽  
Wave Energy Flux
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