scholarly journals A LABORATORY STUDY OF OFFSHORE TRANSPORT OF SEDIMENT AND A MODEL FOR ERODING BEACHES

1980 ◽  
Vol 1 (17) ◽  
pp. 64 ◽  
Author(s):  
Tsuguo Sunamura
Keyword(s):  
Simple Model ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
High Speed ◽  
Sediment Flux ◽  
Data Sets ◽  
Two Dimensional ◽  
Shallow Water Waves ◽  
Picture Analysis ◽  
Offshore Transport ◽  
Existing Data

A two-dimensional laboratory investigation of sediment transport, induced by shallow-water waves, showed that the sediment motion over suspension-dominant asymmetric ripples is closely related to the development of eroding beaches. High-speed motion picture analysis revealed that vortices, formed over this type of ripple, play a crucial role in transporting the sediment to the offshore region. A relation for net offshore sediment flux was formulated for sand 0.02 cm in diameter. A simple model for eroding beaches was proposed and its validity was checked by using two existing data sets for 0.02-cm sand beaches; the model could predict fairly well profile and shoreline changes in the early stages.

Influence of Wave Shape on the Impact of Shallow-Water Waves on Vertical Walls

2006 ◽  
Author(s):  
Claudio Zanzi ◽  
Pablo Go´mez ◽  
Julia´n Palacios ◽  
Joaqui´n Lo´pez ◽  
Julio Herna´ndez
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water ◽  
Level Set ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
High Speed ◽  
Numerical Study ◽  
Local Level ◽  
Wave Shape ◽  
Shallow Water Waves ◽  
Vertical Walls ◽  
The Impact

A numerical study of the impact of shallow-water waves on vertical walls is presented. The air-liquid flow was simulated using a code for incompressible viscous flow, based on a local level set algorithm and a second-order approximate projection method. The level set transport and reinitialization equations were solved in a narrow band around the interface using an adaptive refined grid. The wave is assumed to be generated by a plunger which is accelerated in an open channel containing water. An arbitrary Lagrangian-Eulerian method was used to take into account the relative movement between the plunger and the end wall of the channel. The evolution of the free surface was visualized using a laser light sheet and a high-speed camera, with a sampling frequency of 1000 Hz. Several simulations were carried out to investigate the influence of the shape of the wave approaching the wall on the relevant quantities associated with the impact. The wave shape just before the impact was changed varying the total length of the channel. The results are compared with experimental results and with results obtained by other authors.

scholarly journals Comment on “Two-dimensional third-and fifth-order nonlinear evolution equations for shallow water waves with surface tension” [Nonlinear Dyn,  doi:10.1007/s11071-017-3938-7]

2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
Piotr Rozmej ◽  
Anna Karczewska
Keyword(s):  
Surface Tension ◽  
Shallow Water ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Evolution Equations ◽  
Nonlinear Evolution ◽  
Nonlinear Evolution Equations ◽  
Two Dimensional ◽  
Shallow Water Waves ◽  
Small Parameters ◽  
Fifth Order

AbstractThe authors of the paper “Two-dimensional third-and fifth-order nonlinear evolution equations for shallow water waves with surface tension” Fokou et al. (Nonlinear Dyn 91:1177–1189, 2018) claim that they derived the equation which generalizes the KdV equation to two space dimensions both in first and second order in small parameters. Moreover, they claim to obtain soliton solution to the derived first-order (2+1)-dimensional equation. The equation has been obtained by applying the perturbation method Burde (J Phys A: Math Theor 46:075501, 2013) for small parameters of the same order. The results, if correct, would be significant. In this comment, it is shown that the derivation presented in Fokou et al. (Nonlinear Dyn 91:1177–1189, 2018) is inconsistent because it violates fundamental properties of the velocity potential. Therefore, the results, particularly the new evolution equation and the dynamics that it describes, bear no relation to the problem under consideration.

scholarly journals FINITE ELEMENT MODEL FOR ESTUARIES WITH INTER-TIDAL FLATS

1976 ◽  
Vol 1 (15) ◽  
pp. 194
Author(s):  
Bruno Herrling
Keyword(s):  
Mathematical Model ◽  
Finite Element ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Element Model ◽  
Tidal Flats ◽  
Two Dimensional ◽  
Shallow Water Waves ◽  
Long Period ◽  
Tidal Propagation ◽  
Finite Element Formulations

This paper deals with finite element formulations for the numerical computation of two-dimensional incompressible long period shallow water waves. The described mathematical model is used to reproduce the dynamic situation occurring at the tidal propagation in estuaries. Areas which fall dry and wet again within a tidal cycle - so called inter-tidal flats - are taken into account.

scholarly journals Patterns of water in light

2019 ◽  
Vol 475 (2227) ◽  
pp. 20190110 ◽  
Author(s):  
Theodoros P. Horikis ◽  
Dimitrios J. Frantzeskakis
Keyword(s):  
Liquid Crystals ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Soliton Solutions ◽  
Direct Numerical Simulations ◽  
Two Dimensional ◽  
Shallow Water Waves ◽  
Soliton Interactions ◽  
Non Local ◽  
Local Nonlinearity ◽  
Non Locality

The intricate patterns emerging from the interactions between soliton stripes of a two-dimensional defocusing nonlinear Schrödinger (NLS) model with a non-local nonlinearity are considered. We show that, for sufficiently strong non-locality, the model is asymptotically reduced to a Kadomtsev–Petviashvilli-II (KPII) equation, which is a common model arising in the description of shallow water waves, as such patterns of water may indeed exist in light (this non-local NLS finds applications in nonlinear optics, modelling beam propagation in media featuring thermal nonlinearities, in plasmas, and in nematic liquid crystals). This way, approximate antidark soliton solutions of the NLS model are constructed from the stable KPII line solitons. By means of direct numerical simulations, we demonstrate that non-resonant and resonant two- and three-antidark NLS stripe soliton interactions give rise to wave configurations that are found in the context of the KPII equation. Thus, our study indicates that patterns which are usually observed in water can also be found in optics.

Two-dimensional KdV-burgers for shallow-water waves

1984 ◽  
Vol 81 (2) ◽  
pp. 260-272
Author(s):  
M. Bartuccelli ◽  
V. Muto ◽  
P. Carbonaro
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Two Dimensional ◽  
Shallow Water Waves
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