scholarly journals WAVE SHOALING CALCULATED FROM COKELET'S THEORY

1980 ◽  
Vol 1 (17) ◽  
pp. 6
Author(s):  
T. Sakai ◽  
J.A. Battjes

Cokelet's numerical non-linear theory for progressive, periodic gravity waves is applied to the two-dimensional shoaling of finite amplitude waves on a beach up to breaking. The shoaling curves so obtained are compared with existing shoaling curves calculated from different finite amplitude wave theories, and with existing experimental data. It was found that the shoaling curves calculated from Cokelet's theory predict higher wave height ratios than other curves. The agreement between the present curves and the experimental results is good except near the breakpoint, where the wave height of the present curves is larger than the experimental wave height.

1969 ◽  
Vol 39 (3) ◽  
pp. 497-509 ◽  
Author(s):  
B. S. H. Rarity

A non-linear theory of internal gravity waves of finite amplitude is developed in terms of conservation equations averaged with respect to the phase. The theory overcomes the failure of linear ray theory in regions in which waves are trapped and establishes the conditions under which finite amplitude waves may propagate. It gives a geometrical representation of the degeneration of waves into quasi-turbulence and predicts the dependence of the energy density on its parameters.


1967 ◽  
Vol 29 (2) ◽  
pp. 317-336 ◽  
Author(s):  
Bruce E. Larock ◽  
Robert L. Street

An analysis is made of the effect of a transverse gravity field on a two-dimensional fully cavitating flow past a flat-plate hydrofoil. Under the assumption that the flow is both irrotational and incompressible, a non-linear method is developed by using conformal mapping and the solution to a mixed-boundary-value problem in an auxiliary half plane. A new cavity model, proposed by Tulin (1964a), is employed. The solution to the gravity-affected case was found by iteration; the non-gravity solution was used as the initial trial of a rapidly convergent process. The theory indicates that the lift and cavity size are reduced by the gravity field. Typical results are presented and compared to Parkin's (1957) linear theory.


1972 ◽  
Vol 1 (13) ◽  
pp. 146
Author(s):  
Joseph L. Hammack ◽  
Frederic Raichlen

A linear theory is presented for waves generated by an arbitrary bed deformation {in space and time) for a two-dimensional and a three -dimensional fluid domain of uniform depth. The resulting wave profile near the source is computed for both the two and three-dimensional models for a specific class of bed deformations; experimental results are presented for the two-dimensional model. The growth of nonlinear effects during wave propagation in an ocean of uniform depth and the corresponding limitations of the linear theory are investigated. A strategy is presented for determining wave behavior at large distances from the source where linear and nonlinear effects are of equal magnitude. The strategy is based on a matching technique which employs the linear theory in its region of applicability and an equation similar to that of Korteweg and deVries (KdV) in the region where nonlinearities are equal in magnitude to frequency dispersion. Comparison of the theoretical computations with the experimental results indicates that an equation of the KdV type is the proper model of wave behavior at large distances from the source region.


1971 ◽  
Vol 50 (3) ◽  
pp. 545-563 ◽  
Author(s):  
R. J. Breeding

The behaviour of internal gravity waves near a critical level is investigated by means of a transient two dimensional finite difference model. All the important non-linear, viscosity and thermal conduction terms are included, but the rotational terms are omitted and the perturbations are assumed to be incompressible. For Richardson numbers greater than 2·0 the interaction of the incident wave and the mean flow is largely as predicted by the linear theory–very little of the incident wave penetrates through the critical level and almost all of the wave's energy and momentum are absorbed by changes in the original wind. However, these changes in the wind are centred above the critical level, so that the change in the wind has only a small effect on the height of the critical level. For Richardson numbers less than 2·0 and greater than 0·25 a significant fraction of the incident wave is reflected, part of which could have been predicted by the linear theory. For these stable Richardson numbers a steady state is apparently reached where the maximum wind change continues to grow slowly, but the minimum Richardson number and wave magnitudes remain constant. This condition represents a balance between the diffusion outward of the added momentum and the rate at which it is absorbed. For Richardson numbers less than 0·25, over-reflexion, predicted from the linear theory, is observed, but because the system is dynamically unstable no over-reflecting steady state is ever reached.


1981 ◽  
Vol 48 (4) ◽  
pp. 701-706 ◽  
Author(s):  
W.-S. Yeung ◽  
R.-J. Yang

The orthonormal version of the Method of Integral Relations (MIR) was applied to solve for a two-dimensional incompressible turbulent boundary layer. The flow was assumed to be nonseparating. Flows with favorable, unfavorable, and zero pressure gradient were considered, and comparisons made with available experimental data. In general, the method predicted very well the experimental results for flows with favorable or zero pressure gradient; for flows with unfavorable pressure gradient, it predicted the experimental data well only up to a certain distance from the initial station. This result is due to the flow not being in equilibrium beyond that distance. Finally, the scheme was shown to be efficient in obtaining numerical solutions.


The two-dimensional problem of symmetric finite amplitude gravity waves in an incompressible fluid of infinite depth is treated by a method which first involves satisfying a non-linear boundary condition exactly. The higher approximations are obtained by the method of small parameters. The breaking-wave conditions are discussed and expressions are given for the free-surface equation, the kinetic and the potential energies of the fluid.


2012 ◽  
Vol 256-259 ◽  
pp. 1960-1964
Author(s):  
Feng Jin

In order to study the specialties of wave slamming on open-piled structures, a two-dimensional regular wave tank was established based on commercial CFD software FLUENT. Three typical cases of regular wave slamming on the open-piled structures were reproduced by using the numerical wave tank and compared with the experimental data available. Good agreements were obtained between the numerical and experimental results and the average of peak impact pressure was chosen as the characteristic impact pressure. Then regular wave impact pressure on the open-piled structures under various wave height, period and over height were simulated. The influences of the three parameters on the distribution of impact pressure were analyzed.


1999 ◽  
Vol 122 (1) ◽  
pp. 96-104 ◽  
Author(s):  
Shigehiko Kaneko ◽  
Yasuo Mizota

An analytical model for describing the effectiveness of a deepwater-type cylindrical tuned liquid damper (TLD) with a submerged net for suppressing horizontal vibration of structures is first proposed. In this study, we performed calculations to estimate the effectiveness of a deepwater-type cylindrical TLD based on a proposed dynamical model and compared with experimental results obtained by shaking table experiments and free oscillation tests. In particular, the effect of hydraulic resistance produced by a submerged net and the liquid depth ratio (the ratio of the liquid depth to the diameter of the cylindrical tank) are examined intensively. In the analysis, employing finite amplitude wave theory and Galerkin method in the case of cylindrical tank, we obtained hydrodynamic forces and the free surface elevations. Then, combining the hydrodynamic forces with the equation of motion of the structure, damped transient responses were calculated. The calculated results thus obtained were compared with the experimental results, by which the validity of the modeling methodology was confirmed. [S0094-9930(00)00101-3]


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