scholarly journals WAVE HEIGHT DISTRIBUTION AROUND PERMEABLE BREAKWATERS

1978 ◽  
Vol 1 (16) ◽  
pp. 39 ◽  
Author(s):  
Shintaro Hotta
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Water Depth ◽  
Height Distribution ◽  
Water Basin ◽  
Wave Height Distribution ◽  
Incident Waves

By superimposing solutions due to Sommerfeld, a calculation was made to obtain the wave height distribution around permeable breakwaters in a constant water depth. The cases dealt with were a semi-infinite breakwater, a single relatively large gap in a long breakwater and a single detached breakwater all with incident waves normal to the breakwater. Some cases were verified through experiments in a shallow water basin.

Experimental study on the wave height distribution of wind-induced waves in the growth stage under finite water depth

2019 ◽  
Vol 19 (8) ◽  
pp. 2270-2279
Author(s):  
Ang Gao ◽  
Shiqiang Wu ◽  
Li Chen ◽  
Sien Liu ◽  
Zhun Xu ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Water Depth ◽  
Growth Stage ◽  
Wind Wave ◽  
Model Parameters ◽  
Height Distribution ◽  
Distribution Models ◽  
Wave Height Distribution ◽  
Comparison Results ◽  
Optimized Model

Abstract With the method of a wind tank experiment, the real scenario of lakes with horizontal and vertical circulation of wind-induced flows is considered, and the features of wind wave height and its distribution in the different conditions of wind blowing distance, wind speed and water depth are studied systematically. Afterwards, comparison of the wave height distributions derived directly from experiment and the typical wave height distribution models show that some defects exist in typical wave height distribution models when describing wind wave height distribution in the wave growth stage. On this basis, we propose a new distribution model which is suitable for the description of wind wave height during the growth stage, and the model parameters are acquired with the programming solution method. Finally, the model is further optimized by relating B to σa, and Hs to σa. Comparison results of the optimized model and the typical ones show that the optimized model has advantages in calculation accuracy and convenience of use.

Wave height distribution in shallow water

1985 ◽  
Vol 12 (4) ◽  
pp. 309-319 ◽  
Author(s):  
T.S. Shahul Hameed ◽  
M. Baba
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Height Distribution ◽  
Wave Height Distribution

scholarly journals WAVE HEIGHT DISTRIBUTION IN CONSTANT AND FINITE DEPTHS

2012 ◽  
Vol 1 (33) ◽  
pp. 15 ◽  
Author(s):  
Sofia Caires ◽  
Marcel R.A. Van Gent
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Rayleigh Distribution ◽  
Height Distribution ◽  
High Wave ◽  
Wave Height Distribution ◽  
Individual Wave ◽  
Wave Heights

Several alternatives to the Rayleigh distribution have been proposed for describing individual wave heights in regions where depth-induced wave breaking occurs. The most widely used of these is the so-called Battjes and Groenendijk distribution. This distribution has been derived and validated in a context of a shallow water foreshore waves propagating over a gently sloping shallow region towards the shore. Its validity for waves propagating in regions with shallow flat bottoms is investigated here. It is concluded that the distribution on average underestimates (outside its range of validity) high wave height measurements in shallow flat bottoms by as much as 15%.

Dispersion Effects on Tsunami Propagation in South China Sea

2015 ◽  
Vol 09 (05) ◽  
pp. 1540001 ◽  
Author(s):  
Zhi-Yuan Ren ◽  
Xi Zhao ◽  
Hua Liu
Keyword(s):  
South China Sea ◽  
Shallow Water ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
South China ◽  
Shallow Water Equations ◽  
Height Distribution ◽  
Tsunami Propagation ◽  
China Sea ◽  
Dispersion Effects ◽  
Wave Height Distribution

As the Manila Trench is becoming the most tsunami-hazardous, it is necessary to ascertain the wave height and arrival time in the South China Sea region through numerical simulation of tsunamis generated from potential earthquake source along the Manila subduction zone. The Okada model is employed to generate tsunami. The surface elevation and depth-averaged horizontal velocity at first 5 min, coming from the simulation of shallow water equations, are then interpolated in the weakly dispersive model (FUNWAVE) to calculate tsunami propagation and far-field impact. The characteristics of tsunami wave height distribution in South China Sea are analyzed for the assessment of tsunami hazard near coasts around South China Sea due to the hypothetical earthquakes with magnitude of [Formula: see text] and the worst case scenario ([Formula: see text]). The maximum wave height distribution computed by the Boussinesq equations is compared with that by the shallow water equations to investigate the dispersion effects on propagation of tsunami in South China Sea. It is found that the dispersion effects of the tsunami waves propagating in South China Sea are not significant if the earthquake magnitude is large enough.

scholarly journals APPLICATIONS ON NONLINEAR WAVE COMBINATION

1986 ◽  
Vol 1 (20) ◽  
pp. 26
Author(s):  
J.T. Juang
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Taiwan Strait ◽  
Western Coast ◽  
Linear Wave ◽  
Wave System ◽  
Height Distribution ◽  
Wave Height Distribution ◽  
Local Wave ◽  
Source Wave ◽  
The Waves

Due to the special bathymetry in Taiwan Strait, the waves off the western coast of Taiwan are considered to be composed of two-source wave system. One propagates from the central part of the Strait named main wave, and the other is generated by the local wind known as local wave which occurs along the shore. After the combination and the transformation procedure from these two-nonlinear-source wave system, the wave height distribution in Taiwan Strait should be modified. A comparison of the wave height distributions based on the present proposed method with the field data indicates that the present method yields a better result than other theorems. Furthermore, the result of application of two non-linear wave theorem to wave prediction are also presented.

scholarly journals Links of the significant wave height distribution in the Mediterranean sea with the Northern Hemisphere teleconnection patterns

2008 ◽  
Vol 17 ◽  
pp. 13-18 ◽  
Author(s):  
P. Lionello ◽  
M. B. Galati
Keyword(s):  
Mediterranean Sea ◽  
Northern Hemisphere ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Significant Wave Height ◽  
Height Distribution ◽  
East Atlantic ◽  
Significant Wave ◽  
Teleconnection Patterns ◽  
Wave Height Distribution ◽  
The Mediterranean

Abstract. This study analyzes the link between the SWH (Significant Wave Height) distribution in the Mediterranean Sea during the second half of the 20th century and the Northern Hemisphere SLP (Sea Level Pressure) teleconnection patterns. The SWH distribution is computed using the WAM (WAve Model) forced by the surface wind fields provided by the ERA-40 reanalysis for the period 1958–2001. The time series of mid-latitude teleconnection patterns are downloaded from the NOAA web site. This study shows that several mid-latitude patterns are linked to the SWH field in the Mediterranean, especially in its western part during the cold season: East Atlantic Pattern (EA), Scandinavian Pattern (SCA), North Atlantic Oscillation (NAO), East Atlantic/West Russia Pattern (EA/WR) and East Pacific/ North Pacific Pattern (EP/NP). Though the East Atlantic pattern exerts the largest influence, it is not sufficient to characterize the dominant variability. NAO, though relevant, has an effect smaller than EA and comparable to other patterns. Some link results from possibly spurious structures. Patterns which have a very different global structure are associated to similar spatial features of the wave variability in the Mediterranean Sea. These two problems are, admittedly, shortcomings of this analysis, which shows the complexity of the response of the Mediterranean SWH to global scale SLP teleconnection patterns.

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