scholarly journals DIFFRACTION DIAGRAMS FOR DIRECTIONAL RANDOM WAVES

1978 ◽  
Vol 1 (16) ◽  
pp. 35 ◽  
Author(s):  
Yoshimi Goda ◽  
Tomotsuka Takayama ◽  
Tasumasa Suzuki
Keyword(s):  
Wave Diffraction ◽  
Spectral Characteristics ◽  
Wave Spectrum ◽  
Standard Form ◽  
Random Wave ◽  
Random Waves ◽  
Directional Spectrum ◽  
Spreading Function ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
Directional Wave

Conventional wave diffraction diagrams often yield erroneous estimation of wave heights behind breakwaters in the sea, because they are prepared for monochromatic waves while actual waves in the sea are random with directional spectral characteristics. A proposal is made for the standard form of directional wave spectrum on the basis of Mitsuyasu's formula for directional spreading function. A new set of diffraction diagrams have been constructed for random waves with the proposed directional spectrum. Problems of multi-diffraction and multi-reflection within a harbour can also be solved with serial applications of random wave diffraction.

The Diffraction of Multidirectional Random Waves by Trapezoidal Submarine Pits

2003 ◽  
Author(s):  
Hong Sik Lee ◽  
A. Neil Williams ◽  
Sung Duk Kim
Keyword(s):  
Numerical Model ◽  
Wave Diffraction ◽  
Boundary Integral ◽  
Random Wave ◽  
Linear Wave ◽  
Wave System ◽  
Random Waves ◽  
Random Surface ◽  
Directional Spectrum ◽  
Integral Equation Approach

A numerical model is presented to predict the interaction of multidirectional random surface waves with one or more trapezoidal submarine pits. In the present formulation, each pit may have a different side slope, while the four side slopes at the interior edge of any given pit are assumed equal. The water depth in the fluid region exterior to the pits is taken to be uniform, and the solution method for a random wave system involves the superposition of linear-wave diffraction solutions based on a two-dimensional boundary integral equation approach. The incident wave conditions are specified using a discrete form of the Mitsuyasu directional spectrum. The results of the present numerical model have been compared with those of previous theoretical studies for regular and random wave diffraction by single or multiple rectangular pits. Reasonable agreement was obtained in all cases. Based on these comparisons it is concluded that the present numerical model is an accurate and efficient tool to predict the wave field around multiple submarine pits of trapezoidal section in many practical situations.

scholarly journals OBSERVATION OF DIRECTIONAL WAVE SPECTRA AND REFLECTION COEFFICIENT OF BREAKWATER IN A HARBOR

1988 ◽  
Vol 1 (21) ◽  
pp. 3
Author(s):  
Tetsunori Ohshimo ◽  
Kosuke Kondo ◽  
Tsunehiro Sekimoto
Keyword(s):  
Reflection Coefficient ◽  
Wave Diffraction ◽  
Maximum Likelihood Method ◽  
Wave Spectrum ◽  
Field Investigation ◽  
Likelihood Method ◽  
Electromagnetic Current ◽  
Wave Spectra ◽  
Field Investigations ◽  
Directional Wave

Field investigations were performed in order to show the effect of wave diffraction by breakwaters through directional wave spectra measurements in a harbor, and to estimate the reflection coefficient by resolving the incident and reflected wave energy in front of a composite type breakwater. Combinations of an ultrasonic wave gage (USW) and an electromagnetic current meter (EMC) were used to measure the synchronized data of the water surface elevation and two horizontal velocities. The EMLM (Extended Maximum Likelihood Method) was applied for the calculation of the directional wave spectrum, and the modified EMLM for an incident and reflection wave field was applied for the estimation of the reflection coefficient. Through the estimated directional wave spectra, the effect of wave diffraction by breakwaters were discussed and the reflection coefficient was estimated at about 0.9. As a result, the applicability of the field investigation method and the modified EMLM were verified.

scholarly journals Random wave-driven drag forces on near-bed vegetation in shallow water based on deepwater wind conditions

2019 ◽  
Vol 233 (4) ◽  
pp. 1287-1290
Author(s):  
Dag Myrhaug
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water ◽  
Drag Force ◽  
Wind Waves ◽  
Wave Spectrum ◽  
Random Wave ◽  
Random Waves ◽  
Coastal Zones ◽  
Drag Forces ◽  
Mean Wind Speed ◽  
Wave Induced

This article provides a simple analytical method for giving estimates of random wave-driven drag forces on near-bed vegetation in shallow water from deepwater wind conditions. Results are exemplified using a Pierson–Moskowitz model wave spectrum for wind waves with the mean wind speed at the 10 m elevation above the sea surface as the parameter. The significant value of the drag force within a sea state of random waves is given, and an example typical for field conditions is presented. This method should serve as a useful tool for assessing random wave-induced drag force on vegetation in coastal zones and estuaries based on input from deepwater wind conditions.

scholarly journals COMPARISONS OF NUMERICAL RANDOM WAVE SIMULATORS

1988 ◽  
Vol 1 (21) ◽  
pp. 70 ◽  
Author(s):  
Josep R. Medina ◽  
Carlos R. Sanchez-Carratala
Keyword(s):  
Random Wave ◽  
Random Numbers ◽  
Random Waves ◽  
Spectral Parameters ◽  
Mean Values ◽  
Simulation Techniques ◽  
Target Spectrum ◽  
Wave Superposition ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
Fft Algorithms

A review of unidimensional numerical random sea simulators is provided, centering the attention on the measurement of distortions introduced by the different simulation techniques. Simulators by wave superposition are analyzed, with the conclusion being that they generate significant distortions on the realizations when the number of simulated points are larger than two times the number of wave components. Composed simulators are proposed for the purpose of generating long non-periodic realizations using FFT algorithms. In order to qualify simulators, a justification, based on physical properties of random waves, is given to use mn> m1» Qp and mo as the best spectral parameters to characterize processes. Mean values and variabilities of wave heights and periods are controlled by these parameters. A new robust technique is developed to estimate the parameters of an AR(p) model corresponding to a given target spectrum, S 77 ( f ). MA(q) and ARMA(p,q) approximations are studied. The source of pseudo-random numbers to generate the input white noise has a critical impact on the statistical properties of the output.

scholarly journals 3-D HOS simulations of extreme waves in open seas

2007 ◽  
Vol 7 (1) ◽  
pp. 109-122 ◽  
Author(s):  
G. Ducrozet ◽  
F. Bonnefoy ◽  
D. Le Touzé ◽  
P. Ferrant
Keyword(s):  
Wave Spectrum ◽  
Original Study ◽  
Test Cases ◽  
Extreme Waves ◽  
Extreme Wave ◽  
Freak Waves ◽  
Freak Wave ◽  
Directional Spectrum ◽  
Long Time ◽  
Directional Wave

Abstract. In the present paper we propose a method for studying extreme-wave appearance based on the Higher-Order Spectral (HOS) technique proposed by West et al. (1987) and Dommermuth and Yue (1987). The enhanced HOS model we use is presented and validated on test cases. Investigations of freak-wave events appearing within long-time evolutions of 2-D and 3-D wavefields in open seas are then realized, and the results are discussed. Such events are obtained in our periodic-domain HOS model by using different kinds of configurations: either i) we impose an initial 3-D directional spectrum with the phases adjusted so as to form a focused forced event after a while, or ii) we let 2-D and 3-D wavefields defined by a directional wave spectrum evolve up to the natural appearance of freak waves. Finally, we investigate the influence of directionality on extreme wave events with an original study of the 3-D shape of the detected freak waves.

scholarly journals COMBINED REFRACTION-DIFFRACTION CALCULATIONS WITH DIRECTIONAL WAVE SPECTRA

1984 ◽  
Vol 1 (19) ◽  
pp. 71 ◽  
Author(s):  
P. Gaillard
Keyword(s):  
Water Depth ◽  
Arbitrary Shape ◽  
Wave Spectrum ◽  
Wave Spectra ◽  
Combined Effects ◽  
Random Waves ◽  
Method Of Calculation ◽  
Wave Refraction ◽  
Directional Wave

A method of calculation of the combined effects of wave refraction, diffraction and reflection in harbours of arbitrary shape and non uniform water depth, subject to periodic or random waves is presented. Examples of application are given and practical aspects on the wave spectrum discretisation are considered.

scholarly journals WAVE TRANSMISSION THROUGH A DOUBLE-ROW PILE BREAKWATER

1988 ◽  
Vol 1 (21) ◽  
pp. 165 ◽  
Author(s):  
John B. Herbich ◽  
Barry Douglas
Keyword(s):  
Wave Transmission ◽  
Random Wave ◽  
Random Waves ◽  
Double Row ◽  
Single Row ◽  
Pile Diameter ◽  
Gap Ratio ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
Pass Through ◽  
Gap Spacing

Several previous investigators have conducted experiments leading to expressions for predicting the transformation of waves passing through closely-spaced pile or large cylinder breakwaters. The present study extends the earlier experiments which used a single row of piles instead of a double row of piles forming a breakwater. The experiments using the double-pile breakwater were performed in the same facility as the experiments conducted on a single-pile breakwater and employed the same method of analysis for a more meaningful comparison. The experiments consisted of allowing waves to pass through a pile array and measuring the incident and transmitted wave heights. The variables were: depth, period, diameter, monochromatic and random waves. The experimental matrix was three water depths, four wave periods, two pile diameters, two gap dimensions between piles and four random wave spectra: Darbyshire, I.T.T.C., Pierson- Moskowitz and JONSWAP, two pile diameters and two gap dimensions between piles. The two-row breakwater had less wave transmission than the single-row breakwater, as expected. For a gap to a pile diameter ratio, or b/D = 0.2 (where b = gap spacing, D — pile diameter), the wave transmission was reduced by 15 percent, as compared with a single-row breakwater; for a gap ratio of b/D - 0.1, the wave transmission was reduced by 5 to 10 percent.

scholarly journals ENHANCEMENT OF DIRECTIONAL WAVE SPECTRUM ESTIMATES

1974 ◽  
Vol 1 (14) ◽  
pp. 14
Author(s):  
Narayana N. Panicker ◽  
Leon E. Borgman
Keyword(s):  
Practical Importance ◽  
Wave Spectrum ◽  
Wave Force ◽  
Entropy Method ◽  
Likelihood Method ◽  
Smoothing Function ◽  
Random Waves ◽  
Directional Distribution ◽  
Directional Spectrum ◽  
Data Limitations

Determination of the directional distribution of ocean surface waves is of practical importance and analytical schemes for it are developed and discussed here. Based on a generalized representation of wave properties such as surface elevation, subsurface pressure or horizontal components of water particle velocity, acceleration or wave force, two general schemes of analysis are developed. In one scheme the predictive equations for the directional distribution of both the amplitude and phase of waves are derived. Distribution of energy as a function of direction for random waves is obtained in the other scheme. Fourier series parameterization is used to represent directional spectrum. The truncation of the series dictated by data limitations introduce directional spread and negative side lobes for the estimated directional spectrum. A procedure to remove these undesirable side lobes by a non-negative smoothing function is described. The smoothing causes further directional spread. Methods for obtaining better directional resolution are discussed. Data adaptive spectral analysis techniques such as Maximum Likelihood Method and Maximum Entropy Method are suggested.

Set-Up due to Random Waves: Influence of the Directional Spectrum

2013 ◽  
Vol 155 (A3) ◽  
Keyword(s):  
Frequency Spectrum ◽  
Mathematical Expression ◽  
The United States ◽  
Random Waves ◽  
Directional Spectrum ◽  
Flow Parameters ◽  
Spreading Function ◽  
Set Up ◽  
Correct Estimation ◽  
Buoy Data

The correct estimation of set-up is very important to evaluate coastal hazard and to design coastal structures. In this paper, we derived a mathematical expression for wave set-up in the context of random waves. The solution to this expression assumes straight, parallel depth contours and constant average flow parameters in the longshore direction. We then investigated the effect of different types of sea state taking account of different frequency spectrum and spreading function assumed in the expression on estimates of wave set-up. We found the set-up was highly influenced by the frequency spectrum used. Finally, we applied this expression to estimate set-up values at locations in Italy and in the United States using buoy data provided by ISPRA (Istituto Superiore per la Protezione e la Ricerca Ambientale) and NDBC (National Data Buoy Centre).

scholarly journals VERIFICATION OF A MODIFIED BAYESIAN METHOD FOR ESTIMATING DIRECTIONAL WAVE SPECTRA FROM HF RADAR

2011 ◽  
Vol 1 (32) ◽  
pp. 65 ◽  
Author(s):  
Lukijanto Lukijanto ◽  
Noriaki Hashimoto ◽  
Masaru Yamashiro
Keyword(s):  
Field Data ◽  
Bayesian Method ◽  
Wave Spectrum ◽  
Coastal Engineering ◽  
Hf Radar ◽  
Ocean Wave ◽  
Wave Spectra ◽  
Directional Spectrum ◽  
Radio Science ◽  
Directional Wave

A Modified Bayesian Method (MBM) for estimating directional wave spectra from Doppler spectra obtained by HF radar is examined using field data which were employed in the verification of Bayesian Method (BM). Applicability, validity and accuracy of the MBM are demonstrated compared with the directional wave spectra estimated by BM and observed by buoy acquired from the reliable field data obtained from Surface Current and Wave Variability Experiments (SCAWVEX) project. The necessary conditions of the Doppler spectral components to be used to estimate a reliable directional spectrum are correspondingly estimated by BM. The results clearly demonstrate that directional wave spectra can be estimated by MBM on the basis of Doppler spectra. In addition, though BM shows very time consuming in computations, BM is more robust against the presence of noise than MBM. References Akaike, H. (1980). Likelihood and Bayesian procedure, Bayesian statistics. In J.M. Bernardo, M.H. De Groot, D.U. Lindley, and A.F.M. Smith (Eds.), 143-166. Valencia: University Press. PMid:6252024 Barrick, D. E. (1972a). First order theory and analysis of MF/HF/VHF scatter from sea. IEEE Trans., Antennas Propagation, 20, 2-10. http://dx.doi.org/10.1109/TAP.1972.1140123 Barrick, D. E. (1977). Extraction of wave parameters from measured HF radar sea-echo Doppler spectra. Radio Science, 12(3), 415–424. http://dx.doi.org/10.1029/RS012i003p00415 Crombie, D. (1955). Doppler spectrum of sea echo at 13.56Mc/s. Nature, 175, 681-682. http://dx.doi.org/10.1038/175681a0 Hashimoto, N. and Kobune, K. (1986). Estimation of directional spectra from the maximum entropy principle. Proceedings of 5th International Offshore Mechanics and Arctic Engineering Symposium, 1, 80-85. Hashimoto, N., Kobune, K., and Kameyama, Y. (1987). Estimation of directional spectrum using the Bayesian approach, and its application to field data analysis. Report of P.H.R.I., 26(5), 57-100. Hashimoto N., and Tokuda M., (1999): A Bayesian Method Approach for Estimation of Directional Wave Spectra with HF radar, Coastal Engineering Journal, vol. 41, 137-147. http://dx.doi.org/10.1142/S0578563499000097 Hashimoto, N., Wyatt, L and Kojima, S. (2003): Verification of Bayesian Method for Estimating Directional Spectra from HF Radar Surface. Coastal Engineering Journal, 45(2), 255-274. http://dx.doi.org/10.1142/S0578563403000725 Hashimoto, N., Lukijanto, and Yamashiro, M. (2008). Development of a practical method for estimating directional spectrum from HF radar backscatter. Annual Journal of Coastal Engineering (in Japanese), 55(1), 1451-1455. http://dx.doi.org/10.2208/proce1989.55.1451 Hisaki, Y. (1996). Nonlinear inversion of the integral equation to estimate ocean wave spectra from HF radar. Radio science, 31(1), 25-39. http://dx.doi.org/10.1029/95RS02439 Howell, R., and Walsh, J. (1993). Measurement of ocean wave spectra using a ship mounted HF radar. IEEE Journal of Oceanic Engineering, 18(3), 306-310. http://dx.doi.org/10.1109/JOE.1993.236369 Lipa, B. J. and Barrick, D.E. (1982) : Analysis Methods for Narrow-Beam High-Frequency Radar Sea Echo, NOAA Technical Report ERL 420-WPL 56, 1-55. Lukijanto, Hashimoto, N., and Yamashiro, M. (2009a). Further modification practical method for estimating directional wave spectrum by HF radar. Proc. of 19 th ISOPE, 898-905. Lukijanto, Hashimoto, N., and Yamashiro, M. (2009b). An improvement of Modified Bayesian Method for estimating directional wave spectra from HF radar backscatter. Proceedings of 5 th APAC (Asian and Pacific Coasts), 105-111. Lukijanto, Hashimoto, N., and Yamashiro, M. (2009c). A comparison of analysis methods for estimating directional wave spectrum from HF ocean radar. Journal of Memoirs of the Faculty of Engineering, 69(4). Kyushu University, 163-185. Wyatt, L.R. (1990). A relaxation method for integral inversion applied to HF radar measurement of the ocean wave directional spectrum. International Journal Remote Sensing, 11(8), 1481-1494. http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/01431169008955106 Wyatt, L. R. Gurgel, K.W., Peters, H.C., Prandle, D., Krogstad, H.E., Haug, O., Gerritsen, H., Wensink, G.J. (1997b). The SCAWVEX Project. Proceedings of WAVES97, ASCE.

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