scholarly journals ANOMALOUS DISPERSION OF FOURIER COMPONENTS OF SURFACE GRAVITY WAVES IN THE NEAR SHORE AREA

1978 ◽  
Vol 1 (16) ◽  
pp. 12 ◽  
Author(s):  
Fritz Busching

Water level deflections ri (t) have been measured synchronously at some positions in a beach profile on the isle of SYLT / North Sea during severe storm surge conditions as well as at attenuating wave action. A steadily increasing wave period T in the upbeach direction, turning out from strip chart evaluations, is in accordance with the result of FOURIER syntheses. Near shore wave deformation is explained by ANOMALOUS dispersion of the frequency components.

2019 ◽  
Vol 49 ◽  
pp. 187-196 ◽  
Author(s):  
Anthony James Kettle

Abstract. Storm Tilo on 8–9 November 2007 ranks among the serious winter storms in northern Europe over the past 30 years. Its low pressure centre passed across the northern North Sea, and this led to a cold air outbreak in northwest Europe. Strong north winds across the North Sea contributed to a high storm surge that was serious for coastal regions in eastern England, the Netherlands and Germany. Storm winds and unusually high waves caused shipping accidents and damage to some offshore energy infrastructure. This report presents an outline of the met-ocean conditions and a short overview of storm impacts on societal and energy infrastructure. The progress of the storm surge around the North Sea is analysed using data from the national tide gauge networks. A spectral analysis of the water level data is used to isolate the long period storm surge and short period oscillations (i.e., <4.8 h) from the tidal signal. The calculated skew surge is compared with literature reports for this storm and also with another serious North Sea storm from 31 October–1 November 2006 (Storm Britta). The short period oscillations are compared with the platform and shipping incident reports for the 2 d storm period. The results support previous reports of unusual wave and water level dynamics during some severe regional winter storms.


1984 ◽  
Vol 1 (19) ◽  
pp. 84
Author(s):  
A. Swain ◽  
J.R. Houston

A numerical model is presented for calculating beach profile development due to offshore sediment transport and tested with laboratory and field data. The model allows variable wave conditions, water level fluctuations due to tide and storm surge, arbitrary bathymetry, and arbitrary sediment size. The agreement between calculated and measured beach profile erosion is good.


2008 ◽  
Vol 32 (9) ◽  
pp. 1696-1710 ◽  
Author(s):  
Eduardo Godoy ◽  
Axel Osses ◽  
Jaime H. Ortega ◽  
Alvaro Valencia

1973 ◽  
Vol 29 (3) ◽  
pp. 94-105 ◽  
Author(s):  
Ken Sasaki ◽  
Takashi Murakami

2017 ◽  
Vol 127 ◽  
pp. 95-104 ◽  
Author(s):  
Rob Witbaard ◽  
Magda J.N. Bergman ◽  
Evaline van Weerlee ◽  
Gerard C.A. Duineveld

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