scholarly journals NEARSHORE CURRENT ON A GENTLY SLOPING BEACH

1976 ◽  
Vol 1 (15) ◽  
pp. 35 ◽  
Author(s):  
Tamio Sasaki ◽  
Kiyoshi Horikawa ◽  
Shintaro Hotta

The authors developed a new field observation system called STEREOBACS by which simultaneous measurements of a spacial distribution on waves and currents in the nearshore environment can be obtained. This system was applyed on Ajigaura Beach, Japan, and several analyzed results are presented. Also field observations of infragravity low mode edge waves to support the Infragravity Domain Hypothesis on nearshore currents concerning a gently sloping beach [Sasaki(1974,1975), Sasaki and Horikawa (1975)] are introduced.

Author(s):  
Sam Smiley

The field observation, an ethnographic practice of collecting data and information about a given social setting and situation is often used in preliminary research to have an understanding of the community one is researching. However, from an artist/musician's perspective, the field observation has many commonalities with techniques used in audio field recording. How can field recording be used in parallel with field observations to explore and understand a community through art? This essay will begin with a comparison of field observations and field recordings as methods in their own disciplines, and continue with the concept of “attention” in art, music, science and anthropology. It will follow and conclude with a project that looks at combining qualitative research and art to explore a community of gardeners through recorded interviews and sounds. The work of Pauline Oliveros, Walter S. Gershon, Clifford Geertz, Anne McCrary Sullivan, and Steven Feld will be important in making the connections across disciplines.


1991 ◽  
Vol 233 ◽  
pp. 483-493 ◽  
Author(s):  
Peter Zhevandrov

Edge waves on a beach of gentle slope ε [Lt ] 1 are considered. For constant slope, Ursell (1952) has obtained a complete set of trapped modes and shown that there exists only a finite number n of such modes, (2n + 1)β < ½π, β = tan−1ε. For non-uniform slope the formulae for the trapped-mode frequencies were heuristically derived by Shen, Meyer & Keller (1968). For small n ∼ O(1) Miles (1989) has obtained formulae which coincide with Shen et al.'s (1968) with accuracy to O(ε) and differ from them by O(ε2). However, Miles’ formulae fail at n ∼ 1/ε. In this paper it is proved that Shen et al.'s (1968) formulae are valid for all n (including n ∼ 1/ε) with accuracy to O(ε) and corrections of any order in ε are given. Uniform asymptotic expansions are obtained for the corresponding eigenfunctions. These expansions give Miles’ (1989) result for small n. The formulae for the frequencies and the eigenfunctions have the same structure for both the full dispersion system and the shallow-water equation. For small n the frequencies for both models coincide with accuracy to O(ε2), but for n ∼ 1/ε they differ by O(1). In the last section the effect of rotation following Evans (1989) is taken into account. All the asymptotics have formal character, i.e. they satisfy the corresponding equations with accuracy to O(εN), N being arbitrarily large. The rigorous justification of these asymptotics is under way.


1986 ◽  
Vol 64 (2) ◽  
pp. 380-384 ◽  
Author(s):  
Valerius Geist

Seventy-two tanned, dehaired hides of four species of cervids from western Canada were examined for evidence of injuries. Combat injuries were segregated from injuries incurred from other sources. Forty-six of 55 males 1.5 years of age and older were scarred, as were 14 of 15 females. Of 15 males 1.5 years of age, 7 showed no scars, nor did two 6-month-old male fawns. Only 1of 22 male cervids over 2.5 years of age showed no combat scars. The frequency of wounding in males was 0–225, and in females0–18 per individual. About three-quarters of the scars were on the neck and haunches, about equally divided between these areas. The longest healed scar measured 420 mm; about 20% of the scars exceeded 100 mm in length. Field observations greatly underestimate wounding in cervids. A few males appear to opt out of rutting, but opt in when opportunity allows. The "dove" strategy is rare, but evidence from hides indicates that it does exist, confirming field observation.


1976 ◽  
Vol 79 (3) ◽  
pp. 573-585 ◽  
Author(s):  
Clare A. N. Morris

AbstractA line source whose strength varies sinusoidally with time and also with the co-ordinate measured along its length is situated parallel to the shoreline of a beach of angle ¼π0. Both long-and short-wave solutions are found. It is shown that for certain positions of the source, long waves are not radiated to infinity, while in the short-wave regime, the solutions take the form of edge-waves, with resonances occurring at certain wavenumbers. Computations of the free-surface contours are presented for a range of wavenumbers.


Nature ◽  
1973 ◽  
Vol 243 (5403) ◽  
pp. 160-162 ◽  
Author(s):  
D. A. HUNTLEY ◽  
A. J. BOWEN

1978 ◽  
Vol 1 (16) ◽  
pp. 43
Author(s):  
R.T. Guza ◽  
E.B. Thornton

Simultaneous measurements were made of the offshore directional spectra of gravity waves, and longshore currents within the surf zone. The goal was to test theories which suggest a direct relationship between mean longshore currents (V) in the surf zone and offshore values of the off axis component of radiation stress (S ). Seventeen minute — xv averages of both S and V showed considerable temporal xv variation, and little or no tendency to vary together. There was also considerable longshore spatial variability of the 1ongshore"current. Attempts to measure gradients of S in the surf zone failed because of small errors in instrument orientation. The measurements suggest that considerable temporal and spatial averaging will generally be required to obtain a representative picture of longshore currents, even if no rip currents are present, due to the presence of "eddy" motions or long edge waves.


1978 ◽  
Vol 1 (16) ◽  
pp. 45 ◽  
Author(s):  
Tamio O. Sasaki ◽  
Kiyoshi Horikawa

Nodal lines normal to the shoreline of infragravity low mode edge waves in the nearshore zone were observed with eleven wave staffs simultaneously with the nearshore current spatial velocity field on a gently sloping beach. About five peaks were found in the energy spectrum and their frequencies agreed well with cut-off mode edge waves [Huntley(1976)]. Based on the above observation, conceptual models of nearshore current patterns for the infragravity domain are proposed and general current patterns for the three domains are discussed by combining the horizontal patterns of Harris(1969) and the vertical patterns of Sasaki et al.(1976).


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