scholarly journals PARAMETRIC REPRESENTATION OF A WIND-WAVE FIELD

1976 ◽  
Vol 1 (15) ◽  
pp. 11 ◽  
Author(s):  
Henrik Rye ◽  
Roald Svee
Keyword(s):  
Wave Field ◽  
Field Data ◽  
Wind Wave ◽  
Parametric Representation ◽  
Rayleigh Distribution ◽  
Spectral Shape ◽  
Height Distribution ◽  
Shape Parameters ◽  
Wave Parameters ◽  
Wave Height Distribution

The applicability of various spectral shape parameters is discussed. The wave .height distribution from 60 actual wave recordings is computed and compared to the Rayleigh distribution. The behaviour of various wave period parameters is discussed. Based on results from field data as well as numerical computations, it is concluded that some of the spectral wave parameters frequently used today may not be suitable for characterizing the wave field.

scholarly journals WAVE HEIGHT DISTRIBUTION OF WIND WAVES OVER LONG WAVES

1976 ◽  
Vol 1 (15) ◽  
pp. 21
Author(s):  
Shan-Hwei Ou ◽  
Frederick L.W. Tang
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Wave Energy ◽  
Wind Wave ◽  
Wind Waves ◽  
Rayleigh Distribution ◽  
Long Waves ◽  
Height Distribution ◽  
Long Wave ◽  
Wave Height Distribution ◽  
Wave Generator

Influence of long wave on the wave height distribution of wind waves was studied through the laboratory experiment. Experiments were conducted in a wind-wave tank where the wind waves were generated by a wind blower and the long waves were developed by an oscillating pendulum type wave generator. The wave height distribution of the wind waves over long wave is slightly different from the Rayleigh distribution in the small steepness of long wave. The ratios between the average of highest l/n-th waves vary with the steepness of long waves. The magnitude and the location of the spectral peak of wind waves are altered. The amount of the attenuation of wind wave energy is larger than the results of Mitsuyasu (1966).

Experimental study on the wave height distribution of wind-induced waves in the growth stage under finite water depth

2019 ◽  
Vol 19 (8) ◽  
pp. 2270-2279
Author(s):  
Ang Gao ◽  
Shiqiang Wu ◽  
Li Chen ◽  
Sien Liu ◽  
Zhun Xu ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Water Depth ◽  
Growth Stage ◽  
Wind Wave ◽  
Model Parameters ◽  
Height Distribution ◽  
Distribution Models ◽  
Wave Height Distribution ◽  
Comparison Results ◽  
Optimized Model

Abstract With the method of a wind tank experiment, the real scenario of lakes with horizontal and vertical circulation of wind-induced flows is considered, and the features of wind wave height and its distribution in the different conditions of wind blowing distance, wind speed and water depth are studied systematically. Afterwards, comparison of the wave height distributions derived directly from experiment and the typical wave height distribution models show that some defects exist in typical wave height distribution models when describing wind wave height distribution in the wave growth stage. On this basis, we propose a new distribution model which is suitable for the description of wind wave height during the growth stage, and the model parameters are acquired with the programming solution method. Finally, the model is further optimized by relating B to σa, and Hs to σa. Comparison results of the optimized model and the typical ones show that the optimized model has advantages in calculation accuracy and convenience of use.

Dependence of Shape Parameter of Weibull Distribution on Wave Spectral Width and Nonlinearity

2008 ◽  
Author(s):  
Changliang Li ◽  
Bingchen Liang ◽  
Lin Zhao
Keyword(s):  
Weibull Distribution ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Shape Parameter ◽  
Wave Train ◽  
Spectral Width ◽  
Rayleigh Distribution ◽  
Height Distribution ◽  
Irregular Wave ◽  
Wave Height Distribution ◽  
Ocean Environment

In practice, the wave height distribution associated with an irregular wave train is always mathematically modeled as a Rayleigh distribution. However, the realistic ocean wave height distribution might deviate from a Rayleigh distribution. The present study demonstrates that a better mathematical model for wave height distribution under realistic ocean environment is a Weibull distribution. In comparison with a Rayleigh distribution, a Weibull distribution has the flexibility on choosing its “shape parameter”. According to the nonlinear Monte Carlo simulations, this study investigates the nonlinearity and spectral width effects on the shape parameter for the Weibull wave height distribution. A new empirical formula for calculating the shape parameter is proposed, which can be used easily in application.

scholarly journals Extreme waves at Filyos, southern Black Sea

2011 ◽  
Vol 11 (3) ◽  
pp. 659-666 ◽  
Author(s):  
E. Bilyay ◽  
B. O. Ozbahceci ◽  
A. C. Yalciner
Keyword(s):  
Black Sea ◽  
Rayleigh Distribution ◽  
Height Distribution ◽  
Extreme Waves ◽  
Black Sea Region ◽  
Average Value ◽  
Wave Measurement ◽  
Wave Height Distribution ◽  
Current Interaction ◽  
Surface Profiles

Abstract. A wave measurement project was carried out for a new port planned in Filyos, in the Western Black Sea region of Turkey. The measurement at a depth of 12.5 m lasted for a period of two years and 7949 records were obtained. During the analysis, it was noticed that there were 209 records in which H/Hs ratio was higher than 2.0. These higher waves in a record are called extreme waves in this study. Although the purpose of wave measurement is not to investigate extreme waves, it is believed that studying these unexpected waves could be interesting. Therefore, detailed statistical and spectral analyses on the extreme waves were done for the records. The analyses results show that the distribution of surface profiles of the records containing extreme waves deviates from Gaussian distribution with the negative skewness changing between –0.01 and –0.4 and with the high kurtosis in the range of 3.1–4.2. Although the probability of occurrence of the extreme waves is over-predicted by the Rayleigh distribution, a higher ratio of Hs/ηrms indicates that the wave height distribution can be represented by Rayleigh. The average value of the slope of the frequency spectrum at the high frequency range is proportional to f–9 which is much steeper than the typical wind-wave frequency power law, f–4, –5. The directional spreading is measured with the parameter Smax and it is in the range of 5–70 for the extreme wave records. The wave and current interaction was also investigated and it was found that in most cases, extreme waves occur when the wave and the current are almost aligned. Furthermore, it is observed that extreme waves appear within a group of high waves.

scholarly journals WAVE HEIGHT DISTRIBUTION IN CONSTANT AND FINITE DEPTHS

2012 ◽  
Vol 1 (33) ◽  
pp. 15 ◽  
Author(s):  
Sofia Caires ◽  
Marcel R.A. Van Gent
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Rayleigh Distribution ◽  
Height Distribution ◽  
High Wave ◽  
Wave Height Distribution ◽  
Individual Wave ◽  
Wave Heights

Several alternatives to the Rayleigh distribution have been proposed for describing individual wave heights in regions where depth-induced wave breaking occurs. The most widely used of these is the so-called Battjes and Groenendijk distribution. This distribution has been derived and validated in a context of a shallow water foreshore waves propagating over a gently sloping shallow region towards the shore. Its validity for waves propagating in regions with shallow flat bottoms is investigated here. It is concluded that the distribution on average underestimates (outside its range of validity) high wave height measurements in shallow flat bottoms by as much as 15%.

Maximum Wave Height Distribution in a Sea State: Effects of Record Length and Spectral Peakedness

2004 ◽  
Author(s):  
Germa´n Rodri´guez ◽  
Mercedes Pacheco ◽  
Carlos Guedes Soares
Keyword(s):  
Probability Distribution ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Spectral Shape ◽  
Height Distribution ◽  
Sea State ◽  
Maximum Wave Height ◽  
Record Length ◽  
State Duration ◽  
Long Duration ◽  
Wave Height Distribution

The probability distribution of the maximum wave height in a sea state is examined in terms of the spectral peakedness and the sea state duration. The study is based on the analysis of numerically simulated gaussian wave records with given target spectra to fulfill the long duration and stationarity jointly required conditions, seldom found in nature. Results indicate a clear dependence of the probability distribution structure and location on the record length and the spectral shape.

Maximum Wave Height Distribution in a Sea State: Effects of Record Length and Spectral Peakedness

2005 ◽  
Vol 127 (4) ◽  
pp. 340-344 ◽  
Author(s):  
Germán Rodríguez ◽  
Mercedes Pacheco ◽  
C. Guedes Soares
Keyword(s):  
Probability Distribution ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Spectral Shape ◽  
Height Distribution ◽  
Sea State ◽  
Maximum Wave Height ◽  
Record Length ◽  
State Duration ◽  
Long Duration ◽  
Wave Height Distribution

The probability distribution of the maximum wave height in a sea state is examined in terms of the spectral peakedness and the sea state duration. The study is based on the analysis of numerically simulated Gaussian wave records with given target spectra to fulfill the long duration and stationarity jointly required conditions, seldom found in nature. Results indicate a clear dependence of the probability distribution structure and location on the record length and the spectral shape.

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