scholarly journals A METHOD OF NUMERICAL ANALYSIS OF WAVE PROPAGATION APPLICATION TO WAVE DIFFRACTION AND REFRACTION

1972 ◽  
Vol 1 (13) ◽  
pp. 25 ◽  
Author(s):  
Yoshiyuki Ito ◽  
Katsutoshi Tanimoto
Keyword(s):  
Wave Propagation ◽  
Numerical Analysis ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Wave Diffraction ◽  
Arbitrary Shape ◽  
Bottom Topography ◽  
Height Distribution ◽  
Initial State ◽  
Wave Refraction ◽  
Wave Height Distribution

A method is presented to obtain numerically wave patterns in the region of arbitrary shape. The principle is to solve the linearized wave equations under given boundary conditions from a certain initial state. In this paper, two principal applications of our method of numerical analysis are presented in the fundamental fashion. The first application of our method is related to wave diffraction. The distribution of wave height along a semi-infinite breakwater and a detached breakwater is calculated and compared with that obtained from the conventional analytic solutions to confirm the validity of our numerical method. Three examples of application are presented to the wave height distribution along breakwaters of arbitrary shape and of arbitrary reflecting power and to wave force upon a large isolated vertical structure. The second application is to wave refraction. In particular, this method of numerical analysis is applicable to the analysis of wave propagation in the region of ray intersections which are indicated by the conventional geo-optic wave refraction theory. An example of application to a submerged shoal with concentric circular contours where a cusped caustics is formed is presented and the calculated wave height distribution around the shoal is compared with that obtained from hydraulic model experiments. Our method of numerical analysis might be applied to the calculation of wave height distribution in the region of more realistic bottom topography and it is possible to include vertical boundaries of arbitrary shape.

scholarly journals ATTENUATION OF WAVE INDUCED OSCILLATION IN PORTS BY IMPROVING THE CONDITIONS AT THE HARBOR ENTRANCE

1984 ◽  
Vol 1 (19) ◽  
pp. 196
Author(s):  
M. Kubo ◽  
S. Aoki ◽  
J.J. Avitia Segura
Keyword(s):  
Numerical Method ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Arbitrary Shape ◽  
Height Distribution ◽  
Remarkable Effect ◽  
Wave Height Distribution ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
Wave Induced

The authors developed the numerical method to calculate the wave height distribution around a pair of breakwaters with arbitrary shape of the edge. The effect of the resonators equipped in the breakwaters on the diffracted wave height is simulated by using this method. Simulated results show that the resonators have remarkable effect to reduce wave heights in a harbor. However, in the experiments, resonators are not so effective as predicted by the theory.

scholarly journals APPLICATIONS ON NONLINEAR WAVE COMBINATION

1986 ◽  
Vol 1 (20) ◽  
pp. 26
Author(s):  
J.T. Juang
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Taiwan Strait ◽  
Western Coast ◽  
Linear Wave ◽  
Wave System ◽  
Height Distribution ◽  
Wave Height Distribution ◽  
Local Wave ◽  
Source Wave ◽  
The Waves

Due to the special bathymetry in Taiwan Strait, the waves off the western coast of Taiwan are considered to be composed of two-source wave system. One propagates from the central part of the Strait named main wave, and the other is generated by the local wind known as local wave which occurs along the shore. After the combination and the transformation procedure from these two-nonlinear-source wave system, the wave height distribution in Taiwan Strait should be modified. A comparison of the wave height distributions based on the present proposed method with the field data indicates that the present method yields a better result than other theorems. Furthermore, the result of application of two non-linear wave theorem to wave prediction are also presented.

scholarly journals Links of the significant wave height distribution in the Mediterranean sea with the Northern Hemisphere teleconnection patterns

2008 ◽  
Vol 17 ◽  
pp. 13-18 ◽  
Author(s):  
P. Lionello ◽  
M. B. Galati
Keyword(s):  
Mediterranean Sea ◽  
Northern Hemisphere ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Significant Wave Height ◽  
Height Distribution ◽  
East Atlantic ◽  
Significant Wave ◽  
Teleconnection Patterns ◽  
Wave Height Distribution ◽  
The Mediterranean

Abstract. This study analyzes the link between the SWH (Significant Wave Height) distribution in the Mediterranean Sea during the second half of the 20th century and the Northern Hemisphere SLP (Sea Level Pressure) teleconnection patterns. The SWH distribution is computed using the WAM (WAve Model) forced by the surface wind fields provided by the ERA-40 reanalysis for the period 1958–2001. The time series of mid-latitude teleconnection patterns are downloaded from the NOAA web site. This study shows that several mid-latitude patterns are linked to the SWH field in the Mediterranean, especially in its western part during the cold season: East Atlantic Pattern (EA), Scandinavian Pattern (SCA), North Atlantic Oscillation (NAO), East Atlantic/West Russia Pattern (EA/WR) and East Pacific/ North Pacific Pattern (EP/NP). Though the East Atlantic pattern exerts the largest influence, it is not sufficient to characterize the dominant variability. NAO, though relevant, has an effect smaller than EA and comparable to other patterns. Some link results from possibly spurious structures. Patterns which have a very different global structure are associated to similar spatial features of the wave variability in the Mediterranean Sea. These two problems are, admittedly, shortcomings of this analysis, which shows the complexity of the response of the Mediterranean SWH to global scale SLP teleconnection patterns.

Transformation of wave height distribution

1983 ◽  
Vol 88 (C10) ◽  
pp. 5925 ◽  
Author(s):  
Edward B. Thornton ◽  
R. T. Guza
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Height Distribution ◽  
Wave Height Distribution

Experimental study on the wave height distribution of wind-induced waves in the growth stage under finite water depth

2019 ◽  
Vol 19 (8) ◽  
pp. 2270-2279
Author(s):  
Ang Gao ◽  
Shiqiang Wu ◽  
Li Chen ◽  
Sien Liu ◽  
Zhun Xu ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Water Depth ◽  
Growth Stage ◽  
Wind Wave ◽  
Model Parameters ◽  
Height Distribution ◽  
Distribution Models ◽  
Wave Height Distribution ◽  
Comparison Results ◽  
Optimized Model

Abstract With the method of a wind tank experiment, the real scenario of lakes with horizontal and vertical circulation of wind-induced flows is considered, and the features of wind wave height and its distribution in the different conditions of wind blowing distance, wind speed and water depth are studied systematically. Afterwards, comparison of the wave height distributions derived directly from experiment and the typical wave height distribution models show that some defects exist in typical wave height distribution models when describing wind wave height distribution in the wave growth stage. On this basis, we propose a new distribution model which is suitable for the description of wind wave height during the growth stage, and the model parameters are acquired with the programming solution method. Finally, the model is further optimized by relating B to σa, and Hs to σa. Comparison results of the optimized model and the typical ones show that the optimized model has advantages in calculation accuracy and convenience of use.

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