scholarly journals SHALLOW WATER WAVES A COMPARISON OF THEORIES AND EXPERIMENTS

1968 ◽  
Vol 1 (11) ◽  
pp. 7 ◽  
Author(s):  
Bernard Le Mahaute ◽  
David Divoky ◽  
Albert Lin
Keyword(s):  
Velocity Field ◽  
Shallow Water ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Large Amplitude ◽  
Wave Theory ◽  
Engineering Practice ◽  
Cnoidal Wave ◽  
Shallow Water Waves ◽  
Series Of Experiments ◽  
Water Depths

A series of experiments were performed to determine the velocity field and other characteristics of large amplitude shallow water waves. The experimental results were compared with the predictions of a variety of wave theories including those commonly used in engineering practice. While no theory was found exceptionally accurate, the cnoidal wave theory of Keulegan and Patterson appears most adequate for the range of wavelengths and water depths studied.

scholarly journals Coupling Conditions for Water Waves at Forks

Symmetry ◽  
2019 ◽  
Vol 11 (3) ◽  
pp. 434 ◽  
Author(s):  
Jean-Guy Caputo ◽  
Denys Dutykh ◽  
Bernard Gleyse
Keyword(s):  
Conservation Laws ◽  
Numerical Solution ◽  
Shallow Water ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Large Amplitude ◽  
Narrow Channel ◽  
Effective Model ◽  
Interface Conditions ◽  
Shallow Water Waves ◽  
Coupling Conditions

We considered the propagation of nonlinear shallow water waves in a narrow channel presenting a fork. We aimed at computing the coupling conditions for a 1D effective model, using 2D simulations and an analysis based on the conservation laws. For small amplitudes, this analysis justifies the well-known Stoker interface conditions, so that the coupling does not depend on the angle of the fork. We also find this in the numerical solution. Large amplitude solutions in a symmetric fork also tend to follow Stoker’s relations, due to the symmetry constraint. For non symmetric forks, 2D effects dominate so that it is necessary to understand the flow inside the fork. However, even then, conservation laws give some insight in the dynamics.

scholarly journals SCOUR OF SAND BEACHES IN FRONT OF SEAWALLS

1968 ◽  
Vol 1 (11) ◽  
pp. 40 ◽  
Author(s):  
John B. Herbich ◽  
Stephen C. Ko
Keyword(s):  
Mathematical Model ◽  
Shallow Water ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Water Wave ◽  
Wave Theory ◽  
Beach Erosion ◽  
Theoretical Development ◽  
Scour Depth ◽  
Shallow Water Waves ◽  
Boundary Layer Equations

Many previous studies were confined to problem of beach erosion due to waves breaking on the structure. The investigation reported here involved regular non-breaking, shallow water waves progressing toward a seawall. An analytical solution was developed and compared with laboratory- scale experiments. The shallow-water wave theory and boundary layer equations were used in theoretical development, which resulted in a mathematical model for the ultimate scour depth in front of a seawall.

RESPONSE CHARACTERISTICS OF GRAVEL BEACH FROM THE VIEWPOINT OF SHALLOW WATER WAVES AND MOVEMENT OF GRAVELS

2020 ◽  
Vol 76 (2) ◽  
pp. I_565-I_570
Author(s):  
Shin-ichi AOKI ◽  
Tomoki HAMANO ◽  
Taishi NAKAYAMA ◽  
Eiichi OKETANI ◽  
Takahiro HIRAMATSU ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Shallow Water Waves ◽  
Response Characteristics ◽  
Gravel Beach

scholarly journals Active-subspace analysis of exceedance probability for shallow-water waves

2021 ◽  
Vol 126 (1) ◽  
Author(s):  
Kenan Šehić ◽  
Henrik Bredmose ◽  
John D. Sørensen ◽  
Mirza Karamehmedović
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Exceedance Probability ◽  
Subspace Analysis ◽  
Shallow Water Waves ◽  
Active Subspace
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