scholarly journals BEACH AND DUKE EROSION TESTS

1968 ◽  
Vol 1 (11) ◽  
pp. 44
Author(s):  
T. Van der Meulen ◽  
M.R. Gourlay

In the Netherlands a large part of the country lying below sea level is protected by sand dunes. The erosion of sand dunes during storms at the North Sea, by which the strong wave action is attended with a high sea level, is therefore of extreme importance in the Netherlands. It is almost impossible to do adequate measurements along the coast during storms. Accordingly the Delft Hydraulics Laboratory was requested by the Public Works Department of the Dutch government to investigate in a model a number of matters related to both the maintenance of existing dunes and the design of artificial sand dunes as sea defence works. The investigations reported in this paper are concerned with the following problems a) the influence of the height of sand dunes upon the amount of coastal recession during storm conditions. b) the influence of the wave characteristics upon the amount of coastal recession. c) the differences in coastal recession and profiles obtained with regular waves and those obtained with wind waves. The reproduction on scale of the phenomena m the surf zone is a difficult matter. Many investigators have come to the conclusion that there are several scale effects. Till now our knowledge is not sufficient to determine the magnitude of the scale effects. Owing to this the described tests can give only qualitative information.

1978 ◽  
Vol 1 (16) ◽  
pp. 61
Author(s):  
A. Langerak ◽  
M.A.M. De Ras ◽  
J.J. Leendertse

In the mid-1950s the Netherlands government embarked on a massive construction program, called the Delta Plan. Its purpose was to enhance protection from floods caused by the North Sea in the estuaries of the Rhine, Meuse and Scheldt. According to the plan, all connections to the sea were to be closed by dams, except the New Waterway to Rotterdam and the Western Scheldt. In 1974 all dams and dikes were complete except the dam closing off the Eastern Scheldt from the sea. In view of growing opposition to a complete closure, plans were revised in 1976, and instead of the dam, a storm surge barrier will be constructed. This barrier will reduce the tidal range in the Eastern Scheldt and will be closed during storm surges. In support of engineering and environmental studies related to the construction and operation of this barrier, a large numerical model has been developed, which covers the Eastern and Western Scheldt and the adjacent offshore area. The section of the North Sea which is included in the model is about 120 km long and 30 km wide, running from Blankenberghe in Belgium to Scheveningen in the Netherlands (Fig. 1). The bathymetry of the model area varies widely. In general it slopes from the shore to about 25 m at 30 km from the coast. In certain sections of the offshore area, the bottom is relatively flat; in other areas it has offshore bars and the bottom contains underwater sand dunes with a height of several meters. In the estuaries the tidal flow has scoured deep channels. The tidal flats near the North Sea are generally sandy, but the ecologically important tidal marshes located more inland contain much finer material. The flow and the water levels in the region which is modeled are generally tide-induced. However, the influence of meteorological effects is always present and sometimes dominates water movements and water levels (storm surges). The influence of the fresh water discharges is of much less importance; generally their effects can only be noticed in the immediate vicinity of the discharge. The tides in the offshore area of the model are part of the complicated tide system in the North Sea. The semidiurnal tidal wave propagates along the coast in a northeasterly direction. During this propagation the amplitude reduces from about 1.90 m near Blankenberghe to about .85 m near Scheveningen.


Author(s):  
Dirk J. Beets ◽  
Adam J. F. van der Spek

AbstractFlooding of the southern part of the North Sea occurred between 9000 and 8000 BP, when the rate of relative sea-level rise was on the order of 0.7 cm per year for the Dover Strait Region and 1.6 cm per year for the area north of the Frisian Islands, forcing the shoreline to recede rapidly. When relative sea-level rise decelerated after 7000 BP for the Belgian coast and 6000 BP for the central Netherlands coast, sediment supply by the tidal currents balanced the creation of accommodation space in the estuaries and other back-barrier basins. Consequently, the barrier started to stabilize, and the tidal basins and their inlets silted up. Between 5500 and 4500 BP, the Belgian coastal plain changed into a freshwater marsh with peat accumulation, and the same happened 500–1000 years later in the western provinces of the Netherlands. The E-W running barrier/back-barrier system of the Frisian Islands in the northern Netherlands stayed open until today, however, because of lower sediment supply.The period between 4000 and 2000 BP was relatively quiet due to the strong deceleration of the rate of sea-level rise; peat cushions developed behind the barriers, which were straightened by erosion of the headlands. Major and often catastrophic flooding occurred in the Middle Ages, when the estuaries in the southwestern part of the Netherlands formed.About 226 (± 15%) × 109 m3 sediment, mostly sand, is stored in the barriers and back-barrier basins of the Netherlands, 70% of which was deposited prior to 5000 BP. About 10% of the stored sediment is estimated to be of alluvial origin. Most of the sediment is derived by the erosion of the Pleistocene basement during recession of the barriers, but tide-induced crossshore transport from the North Sea forms an additional source for the barriers and back-barriers of the west-facing coast of the Netherlands.


2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
Elin Andrée ◽  
Jian Su ◽  
Martin Drews ◽  
Morten Andreas Dahl Larsen ◽  
Asger Bendix Hansen ◽  
...  

<p>The potential impacts of extreme sea level events are becoming more apparent to the public and policy makers alike. As the magnitude of these events are expected to increase due to climate change, and increased coastal urbanization results in ever increasing stakes in the coastal zones, the need for risk assessments is growing too.</p><p>The physical conditions that generate extreme sea levels are highly dependent on site specific conditions, such as bathymetry, tidal regime, wind fetch and the shape of the coastline. For a low-lying country like Denmark, which consists of a peninsula and islands that partition off the semi-enclosed Baltic Sea from the North Sea, a better understanding of how the local sea level responds to wind forcing is urgently called for.</p><p>We here present a map for Denmark that shows the most efficient wind directions for generating extreme sea levels, for a total of 70 locations distributed all over the country’s coastlines. The maps are produced by conducting simulations with a high resolution, 3D-ocean model, which is used for operational storm surge modelling at the Danish Meteorological Institute. We force the model with idealized wind fields that maintain a fixed wind speed and wind direction over the entire model domain. Simulations are conducted for one wind speed and one wind direction at a time, generating ensembles of a set of wind directions for a fixed wind speed, as well as a set of wind speeds for a fixed wind direction, respectively.</p><p>For each wind direction, we find that the maximum water level at a given location increases linearly with the wind speed, and the slope values show clear spatial patterns, for example distinguishing the Danish southern North Sea coast from the central or northern North Sea Coast. The slope values are highest along the southwestern North Sea coast, where the passage of North Atlantic low pressure systems over the shallow North Sea, as well as the large tidal range, result in a much larger range of variability than in the more sheltered Inner Danish Waters. However, in our simulations the large fetch of the Baltic Sea, in combination with the funneling effect of the Danish Straits, result in almost as high water levels as along the North Sea coast.</p><p>Although the wind forcing is completely synthetic with no spatial and temporal structure of a real storm, this idealized approach allows us to systematically investigate the sea level response at the boundaries of what is physically plausible. We evaluate the results from these simulations by comparison to peak water levels from a 58 year long, high resolution ocean hindcast, with promising agreement.</p>


The development of the area, of the Thames Estuary is briefly traced since the late Cretaceous period, with its present outline being due to a combination of factors. The overall subsidence of the North Sea area, the ‘Alpine5 fold movements, and the transgression of the sea since the retreat of the Weichselian icesheets have all contributed. The positions of the shore-line during the critical phase, 9600 b.p. to 8000 b.p., of this last transgression of the sea are shown. Subsequent to this main transgressive phase, erosion of the shoreline has been rapid due to storm-waves and tidal current action. An estimation of the average rate of subsidence and/or sea-level rise is given based on the concept of sedimentary equilibrium in which a figure of 12.7 cm (5 in) per century is arrived at.


2014 ◽  
Vol 119 (10) ◽  
pp. n/a-n/a ◽  
Author(s):  
Sönke Dangendorf ◽  
Francisco M. Calafat ◽  
Arne Arns ◽  
Thomas Wahl ◽  
Ivan D. Haigh ◽  
...  

Records of sea level for several North Sea ports for the winter of 1953-4 have been in vestigated. They were split into 14-day intervals, and each 14-day record was Fourieranalyzed to determine if any non-astronomical periods were present. There was evidence of some activity between 40 and 50 h period, and a determination of the phase angles at different ports showed that the activity could be due to a disturbance travelling southwards from the north of the North Sea. The disturbance was partly reflected somewhere near the line from Lowestoft to Flushing, so that one part returned past Flushing and Esbjerg towards Bergen while the other part travelled towards Dover, and there was evidence of its existence on the sea-current records taken near St Margaret's Bay. These results were confirmed by subtracting the predicted astronomical tidal levels from the observed values of sea level and cross-correlating the residuals so obtained for each port with those found at Lowestoft. The residuals at Lowestoft and Aberdeen were compared with the meteorological conditions, and it was found that, although they could be attributed to a large extent to conditions within the North Sea, there was an additional effect due to a travelling surge which was of the same order of magnitude at both Lowestoft and Aberdeen and which was closely related to the rate of change with time of the atmospheric pressure difference between Wick and Bergen.


2021 ◽  
pp. 39-82
Author(s):  
Arika Okrent ◽  
Sean O’Neill

This chapter tells the story of how English got to be the weird way it is, which begins with the Germanic languages and the barbarians who spoke them. During the 5th century, an assortment of them poured across the North Sea, from what is today Denmark, the Netherlands, and Northern Germany, and conquered most of England. After about a century of the Germanic tribes taking over and settling in, the Romans returned. This time it was not soldiers but missionaries who arrived. The monks who came to convert the island to Christianity brought their Latin language with them, and they also brought the Latin alphabet. They set about translating religious texts into the language of the people they encountered, a language that by this time had coalesced into something that was Old English. However, there is another group of barbarians to blame: the Vikings. Their language was similar enough to Old English that they could communicate with the Anglo-Saxons without too much difficulty, and over time their own way of speaking mixed into the surrounding language, leaving vocabulary and expressions behind that do not quite fit the rest of the pattern at the old Germanic layer.


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