scholarly journals A PROBABLE LEVEL OF WAVE CREST FOR THE DESIGN OF COASTAL STRUCTURES

1966 ◽  
Vol 1 (10) ◽  
pp. 4
Author(s):  
Masafumi Kubo ◽  
Mitsup Takezawa
Keyword(s):  
Water Level ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Sea Water ◽  
Wave Crest ◽  
Coastal Structures ◽  
Astronomical Tide ◽  
Structure Changes ◽  
Short Period ◽  
Meteorological Effect ◽  
Period Wave

The height of sea water level in front of a coastal structure changes by the astronomical tide, the meteorological effect and the short period wave. From three histograms of the astronomical tide, meteorological tide and wave height, the probable level of wave crest in the coast will be estimated by the method presented in this paper.

scholarly journals Wave Force Characteristics of Large-Sized Offshore Wind Support Structures to Sea Levels and Wave Conditions

2019 ◽  
Vol 9 (9) ◽  
pp. 1855
Author(s):  
Youn-Ju Jeong ◽  
Min-Su Park ◽  
Jeongsoo Kim ◽  
Sung-Hoon Song
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Wave Force ◽  
Diffraction Effect ◽  
Support Structures ◽  
Sea Levels ◽  
Irregular Wave ◽  
Long Period ◽  
Short Period ◽  
Period Wave

This paper presents the results of wave force tests conducted on three types of offshore support structures considering eight waves and three sea levels to investigate the corresponding wave forces. As a result of this study, it is found that the occurrence of shoaling in shallow water induces a significant increase of the wave force. Most of the test models at the shallow water undergo a nonlinear increase of the wave force with higher wave height increasing. In addition, the larger the diameter of the support structure within the range of this study, the larger the diffraction effect is, and the increase in wave force due to shoaling is suppressed. Under an irregular wave at the shallow water, the wave force to the long-period wave tends to be slightly higher than that of the short period wave since the higher wave height component included in the irregular wave has an influence on the shoaling. In addition, it is found that the influence of shoaling under irregular wave becomes more apparent in the long period.

Environmental Assessment of Xinhe Beach Development

2020 ◽  
Vol 980 ◽  
pp. 459-468
Author(s):  
Zhi Lin Sun ◽  
Ju Yuan Luo ◽  
Weng Ang Xiang ◽  
Yu Meng Gong
Keyword(s):  
Velocity Field ◽  
Water Level ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Ecological Environment ◽  
Environmental Damage ◽  
Height Distribution ◽  
Astronomical Tide ◽  
Effective Wave ◽  
Hydrodynamic Environment ◽  
The Impact

The proliferation of beach renovation is affecting the change of the landform of the coast and threatening the ecological environment. Therefore, it is necessary to assess the impact on the environment after the beach is transformed. The survey area is located near the Shipu fishing port in the south of Ningbo City, Zhejiang Province. Based on the Delft-3D grid nesting model and wave-fluid coupling model, the astronomical tide and hydrodynamic environment of the 30 days before the construction were simulated. After the beach was rebuilt and sand was added and the spur dike was added, the astronomical tide and hydrodynamic environment were again simulated. Finally, based on the simulated data, the water level, velocity field, effective wave height distribution, and siltation and siltation of Xinhe Beach were obtained. Xinhe Beach's environmental damage risk indicators can be evaluated based on water level, velocity field, effective wave height direction and sediment erosion and deposition. Artificial sanding and construction of spur dikes will change the hydrodynamics and scouring and siltation of Xinhe Beach, but have little effect on the coastal terrain and ecological environment.

Effects of Wave Height and Sea Water Level on Wave Overtopping and Wave Run-Up

1965 ◽  
Vol 8 (1) ◽  
pp. 141-151 ◽  
Author(s):  
Yuichi Iwagaki ◽  
Akira Shima ◽  
Masao Inoue
Keyword(s):  
Water Level ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Sea Water ◽  
Wave Overtopping ◽  
Run Up

scholarly journals Spatial distribution of water level impact to back-barrier bays

2018 ◽  
Author(s):  
Alfredo L. Aretxabaleta ◽  
Neil K. Ganju ◽  
Zafer Defne ◽  
Richard P. Signell
Keyword(s):  
Water Level ◽  
Sea Level ◽  
Water Levels ◽  
Analytical Models ◽  
Barnegat Bay ◽  
Sea Level Fluctuations ◽  
Flooding Hazard ◽  
Short Period ◽  
Inlet Geometry ◽  
Spatial Estimates

Abstract. Water level in semi-enclosed bays, landward of barrier islands, is mainly driven by offshore sea level fluctuations that are modulated by bay geometry and bathymetry, causing spatial variability in the ensuing response (transfer). Local wind setup can have a secondary role that depends on wind speed, fetch, and relative orientation of the wind direction and the bay. Inlet geometry and bathymetry primarily regulate the magnitude of the transfer between open ocean and bay. Tides and short-period offshore oscillations are more damped in the bays than longer-lasting offshore fluctuations, such as storm surge and sea level rise. We compare observed and modeled water levels at stations in a mid-Atlantic bay (Barnegat Bay) with offshore water level proxies. Observed water levels in Barnegat Bay are compared and combined with model results from the Coupled Ocean–Atmosphere–Wave–Sediment Transport (COAWST) modeling system to evaluate the spatial structure of the water level transfer. Analytical models based on the dimensional characteristics of the bay are used to combine the observed data and the numerical model results in a physically consistent approach. Model water level transfers match observed values at locations inside the Bay in the storm frequency band (transfers ranging from 70–100 %) and tidal frequencies (10–55 %). The contribution of frequency-dependent local setup caused by wind acting along the bay is also considered. The approach provides transfer estimates for locations inside the Bay where observations were not available resulting in a complete spatial characterization. The approach allows for the study of the Bay response to alternative forcing scenarios (landscape changes, future storms, and rising sea level). Detailed spatial estimates of water level transfer can inform decisions on inlet management and contribute to the assessment of current and future flooding hazard in back-barrier bays and along mainland shorelines.

Semi-Empirical Crest Distributions of Long-Crest Nonlinear Waves of Three-Hour Duration

2017 ◽  
Author(s):  
Zhenjia (Jerry) Huang ◽  
Qiuchen Guo
Keyword(s):  
Nonlinear Wave ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Model Test ◽  
Significant Wave Height ◽  
Spectral Peak ◽  
Wave Crest ◽  
Empirical Formulas ◽  
Peak Period ◽  
Significant Wave ◽  
Semi Empirical

In wave basin model test of an offshore structure, waves that represent the given sea states have to be generated, qualified and accepted for the model test. For seakeeping and stationkeeping model tests, we normally accept waves in wave calibration tests if the significant wave height, spectral peak period and spectrum match the specified target values. However, for model tests where the responses depend highly on the local wave motions (wave elevation and kinematics) such as wave impact, green water impact on deck and air gap tests, additional qualification checks may be required. For instance, we may need to check wave crest probability distributions to avoid unrealistic wave crest in the test. To date, acceptance criteria of wave crest distribution calibration tests of large and steep waves of three-hour duration (full scale) have not been established. The purpose of the work presented in the paper is to provide a semi-empirical nonlinear wave crest distribution of three-hour duration for practical use, i.e. as an acceptance criterion for wave calibration tests. The semi-empirical formulas proposed in this paper were developed through regression analysis of a large number of fully nonlinear wave crest distributions. Wave time series from potential flow simulations, computational fluid dynamics (CFD) simulations and model test results were used to establish the probability distribution. The wave simulations were performed for three-hour duration assuming that they were long-crested. The sea states are assumed to be represented by JONSWAP spectrum, where a wide range of significant wave height, peak period, spectral peak parameter, and water depth were considered. Coefficients of the proposed semi-empirical formulas, comparisons among crest distributions from wave calibration tests, numerical simulations and the semi-empirical formulas are presented in this paper.

scholarly journals The lunar and solar diurnal variations of water-level in a well at Kew observatory, Richmond

1918 ◽  
Vol 94 (663) ◽  
pp. 476-478
Keyword(s):  
Water Level ◽  
Royal Society ◽  
Correlation Coefficients ◽  
Barometric Pressure ◽  
Diurnal Variations ◽  
Range Of Movement ◽  
Nearest Point ◽  
Similar Relation ◽  
Short Period ◽  
The Mean

In a paper communicated to the Royal Meteorological Society, it was shown that the experimental well at Kew Observatory responded to the lunar fortnightly oscillation of mean level in the River Thames, which is 300 yards from the Observatory at its nearest point. The sensitiveness of the water-level to barometric pressure has also been investigated, and the results have been given in a paper recently read before the Royal Society. The present paper deals with the effects of the short-period tides in the solar and lunar series, S 1 , S 2 , S 3 , S 4 , and M 1 , M 2 , M 3 , M 4 . Two-hourly measurements, both in lunar and solar time, were made on the traces obtained during the first two years, August, 1914-August, 1916, omitting days of very irregular movement. Monthly mean inequalities were then computed. Well marked solar and lunar diurnal variations were found in each month, taking the form of double oscillations with two maxima and two minima during the 24 hours. The range of movement was in each case found to be highly associated with the mean height of the water in the well, the correlation coefficients being 0·89 (lunar) and 0·90 (solar). A similar relation had been previously found to exist in the case of barometric pressure.

scholarly journals Observation of Kelvin–Helmholtz instabilities and gravity waves in the summer mesopause above Andenes in Northern Norway

2018 ◽  
Vol 18 (9) ◽  
pp. 6721-6732 ◽  
Author(s):  
Gunter Stober ◽  
Svenja Sommer ◽  
Carsten Schult ◽  
Ralph Latteck ◽  
Jorge L. Chau
Keyword(s):  
Gravity Waves ◽  
Middle Atmosphere ◽  
Phase Speed ◽  
Velocity Measurements ◽  
Wind Variability ◽  
Short Period ◽  
Strong Shear ◽  
Summer Echoes ◽  
Period Wave ◽  
Horizontal Wavelength

Abstract. We present observations obtained with the Middle Atmosphere Alomar Radar System (MAARSY) to investigate short-period wave-like features using polar mesospheric summer echoes (PMSEs) as a tracer for the neutral dynamics. We conducted a multibeam experiment including 67 different beam directions during a 9-day campaign in June 2013. We identified two Kelvin–Helmholtz instability (KHI) events from the signal morphology of PMSE. The MAARSY observations are complemented by collocated meteor radar wind data to determine the mesoscale gravity wave activity and the vertical structure of the wind field above the PMSE. The KHIs occurred in a strong shear flow with Richardson numbers Ri < 0.25. In addition, we observed 15 wave-like events in our MAARSY multibeam observations applying a sophisticated decomposition of the radial velocity measurements using volume velocity processing. We retrieved the horizontal wavelength, intrinsic frequency, propagation direction, and phase speed from the horizontally resolved wind variability for 15 events. These events showed horizontal wavelengths between 20 and 40 km, vertical wavelengths between 5 and 10 km, and rather high intrinsic phase speeds between 45 and 85 m s−1 with intrinsic periods of 5–10 min.

Non-Gaussian Extreme Waves in the Central North Sea

1997 ◽  
Vol 119 (3) ◽  
pp. 146-150 ◽  
Author(s):  
J. Skourup ◽  
N.-E. O. Hansen ◽  
K. K. Andreasen
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
North Sea ◽  
Upper Bound ◽  
Wave Crest ◽  
Extreme Waves ◽  
Freak Waves ◽  
Freak Wave ◽  
Wave Trains ◽  
Central North Sea ◽  
Crest Height

The area of the Central North Sea is notorious for the occurrence of very high waves in certain wave trains. The short-term distribution of these wave trains includes waves which are far steeper than predicted by the Rayleigh distribution. Such waves are often termed “extreme waves” or “freak waves.” An analysis of the extreme statistical properties of these waves has been made. The analysis is based on more than 12 yr of wave records from the Mærsk Olie og Gas AS operated Gorm Field which is located in the Danish sector of the Central North Sea. From the wave recordings more than 400 freak wave candidates were found. The ratio between the extreme crest height and the significant wave height (20-min value) has been found to be about 1.8, and the ratio between extreme crest height and extreme wave height has been found to be 0.69. The latter ratio is clearly outside the range of Gaussian waves, and it is higher than the maximum value for steep nonlinear long-crested waves, thus indicating that freak waves are not of a permanent form, and probably of short-crested nature. The extreme statistical distribution is represented by a Weibull distribution with an upper bound, where the upper bound is the value for a depth-limited breaking wave. Based on the measured data, a procedure for determining the freak wave crest height with a given return period is proposed. A sensitivity analysis of the extreme value of the crest height is also made.

A Method to Implement the Random Signals for Time Varying Offshore Wave Height During Storm Condition in an Intra-Wave Period Wave Model

2006 ◽  
Author(s):  
Yuliang Zhu ◽  
Shunqi Pan ◽  
Premanandan T. Fernando ◽  
Xiaoyan Zhou
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Wave Model ◽  
Peak Frequency ◽  
Wave Period ◽  
Storm Event ◽  
Time Varying ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
Offshore Wave ◽  
Storm Condition ◽  
Period Wave

In this paper, a method to implement the surface elevation at the offshore boundary during storm conditions is presented in the intra-wave period wave model. At storm condition, the offshore incident significant wave height is time varying. In the case of time varying incident wave height, the JONSWAP energy spectrum can be manipulated as follows: H1/32s(f). s(f) is the energy density function for a unit wave height. During a storm event not only the offshore boundary significant wave heights but also the peak frequency varies. If we choose a mean peak frequency during a storm event, s(f) can be calculated for the mean peak frequency for the storm event. The amplitudes of the component waves for the random signals are calculated from the unit energy density function s(f), and the phase angle of the component wave, So we can numerically generate surface elevation time series for the time varying offshore wave heights. The method was verified in the intra-wave period wave model using field measurements at Sea Palling site Norfolk UK.

scholarly journals ARMOUR UNIT STRUCTURAL RESPONSE - A PARAMETRIC STUDY

1988 ◽  
Vol 1 (21) ◽  
pp. 176
Author(s):  
C. David Anglin ◽  
William F. Baird ◽  
Etienne P.D. Mansard ◽  
R. Douglas Scott ◽  
David J. Turcke
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Parametric Study ◽  
Structural Integrity ◽  
Design Procedure ◽  
Structural Response ◽  
Design Parameters ◽  
Coastal Structures ◽  
Log Normal ◽  
Wave Induced ◽  
Hydraulic Stability

There is a general lack of knowledge regarding the nature and magnitude of loads acting on armour units used for the protection of rubblemound coastal structures. Thus, a comprehensive design procedure incorporating both the hydraulic stability and the structural integrity of the armour units does not exist. This paper presents the results of a detailed parametric study of the structural response of armour units to wave-induced loading in a physical breakwater model. The effect of the following design parameters is investigated: breakwater slope, armour unit location, wave period and wave height. This research has made a number of significant contributions towards the development of a comprehensive design procedure for concrete armour units. It has identified a linear relationship between the wave-induced stress in the armour units and the incident wave height. In addition, it has shown that the conditional probability of waveinduced stress given wave height can be estimated by a log-normal distribution. Finally, a preliminary design chart has been developed which incorporates both the structural integrity and the hydraulic stability of the armour units.

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