scholarly journals Inverse Gaussian distribution of wave set-up heights along a shoreline with complicated geometry

Author(s):  
Tarmo Soomere ◽  
Katri Pindsoo

Abstract. The phenomenon of wave set-up may substantially contribute to the formation of devastating coastal flooding in certain coastal sections. We study empirical probability distribution of the occurrence of different set-up heights in section of coastline near Tallinn in the Gulf of Finland, the eastern Baltic Sea. The shoreline in the study area is often attacked by high waves from various directions and also has a complex geometry. Shown is that this distribution substantially deviates from the Rayleigh or the Weibull distribution that usually reflect the distribution of different wave heights. The distribution of wave set-up heights matches a Wald (inverse Gaussian) distribution along the entire study area. Even though different sections of the study area are open to different directions and host substantially different wave regimes, the leading term of the exponent in the associated inverse Gaussian distribution varies insignificantly along the study area and generally is close to −1. This appearance signals that extreme set-up events are substantially more probable that it could be expected from the probability of occurrence of severe seas. This feature is invariant with respect to the orientation of the coastline and with respect to the properties of local wave climate.

Ocean Science ◽  
2020 ◽  
Vol 16 (5) ◽  
pp. 1047-1065
Author(s):  
Tarmo Soomere ◽  
Katri Pindsoo ◽  
Nadezhda Kudryavtseva ◽  
Maris Eelsalu

Abstract. The phenomenon of wave set-up may substantially contribute to the formation of devastating coastal flooding in certain coastal areas. We study the appearance and properties of empirical probability density distributions of the occurrence of different set-up heights on an approximately 80 km long section of coastline near Tallinn in the Gulf of Finland, eastern Baltic Sea. The study area is often attacked by high waves propagating from various directions, and the typical approach angle of high waves varies considerably along the shore. The distributions in question are approximated by an exponential distribution with a quadratic polynomial as the exponent. Even though different segments of the study area have substantially different wave regimes, the leading term of this polynomial is usually small (between −0.005 and 0.005) and varies insignificantly along the study area. Consequently, the distribution of wave set-up heights substantially deviates from a Rayleigh or Weibull distribution (that usually reflect the distribution of different wave heights). In about three-quarters of the occasions, it is fairly well approximated by a standard exponential distribution. In about 25 % of the coastal segments, it qualitatively matches a Wald (inverse Gaussian) distribution. The Kolmogorov–Smirnov test (D value) indicates that the inverse Gaussian distribution systematically better matches the empirical probability distributions of set-up heights than the Weibull, exponential, or Gaussian distributions.


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