scholarly journals Cross-Correlation of Station-to-Station Free Surface Elevation Time Series for Breaking Water Waves

2018 ◽  
Vol 09 (02) ◽  
pp. 138-152
Author(s):  
Raphael Mukaro
Keyword(s):  
Time Series ◽  
Free Surface ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Cross Correlation ◽  
Surface Elevation ◽  
Free Surface Elevation

scholarly journals Relation between orbital velocities, pressure and surface elevation in non-linear nearshore water waves

2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
Kévin Martins ◽  
Philippe Bonneton ◽  
David Lannes ◽  
Hervé Michallet
Keyword(s):  
Free Surface ◽  
Surface Energy ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Energy Levels ◽  
Sea Surface ◽  
Surface Elevation ◽  
Linear Wave ◽  
Free Surface Elevation ◽  
High Frequencies ◽  
Non Linear

AbstractThe inability of the linear wave dispersion relation to characterize the dispersive properties of non-linear shoaling and breaking waves in the nearshore has long been recognised. Yet, it remains widely used with linear wave theory to convert between sub-surface pressure, wave orbital velocities and the free surface elevation associated with non-linear nearshore waves. Here, we present a non-linear fully dispersive method for reconstructing the free surface elevation from sub-surface hydrodynamic measurements. This reconstruction requires knowledge of the dispersive properties of the wave field through the dominant wavenumbers magnitude κ, representative in an energy-averaged sense of a mixed sea-state composed of both free and forced components. The present approach is effective starting from intermediate water depths - where non-linear interactions between triads intensify - up to the surf zone, where most wave components are forced and travel approximately at the speed of non-dispersive shallow-water waves. In laboratory conditions, where measurements of κ are available, the non-linear fully dispersive method successfully reconstructs sea-surface energy levels at high frequencies in diverse non-linear and dispersive conditions. In the field, we investigate the potential of a reconstruction that uses a Boussinesq approximation of κ, since such measurements are generally lacking. Overall, the proposed approach offers great potential for collecting more accurate measurements under storm conditions, both in terms of sea-surface energy levels at high frequencies and wave-by-wave statistics (e.g. wave extrema). Through its control on the efficiency of non-linear energy transfers between triads, the spectral bandwidth is shown to greatly influence non-linear effects in the transfer functions between sub-surface hydrodynamics and the sea-surface elevation.

Estimation of Wave Loads due to Green Water Events in 10000-Year Conditions on a TLP Deck Structure

2016 ◽  
Author(s):  
Csaba Pakozdi ◽  
Anders Östman ◽  
Guomin Ji ◽  
Carl Trygve Stansberg ◽  
Ola Reum ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Time Series ◽  
Free Surface ◽  
Model Test ◽  
Extreme Events ◽  
Structural Design ◽  
Surface Elevation ◽  
Green Water ◽  
Free Surface Elevation ◽  
Numerical Wave ◽  
Steep Wave

In order to provide qualitative and quantitative information on the hydrodynamics loads during green water events on a module on the deck of a TLP in 10000-year conditions, MARINTEK has carried out CFD simulations. This paper presents extreme wave events and corresponding hydrodynamics loads on the module which can be directly linked to the extreme events observed in model tests. This means that the simulated extreme events can be related to a probability of occurrence, found from the model test. A prerequisite for the structural design is that reliable estimates of hydrodynamic loads during a green water event can be made. Measured time series of waves from existing model test data are compared with CFD generated synthetic numerical waves. The selection of steep wave events are based on two physical parameters: the wave crest height and the rise velocity (time derivative of the free surface elevation at a given location). These parameters are relevant for green water and corresponding loads. The comparison of the measured free surface elevation of the calibrated waves with the time series of the numerical waves, as well as the measured and simulated relative wave probes time series shows that the applied numerical wave events have similar physical conditions as those observed in the model test. In a new procedure developed by MARINTEK one identifies observed steep wave events, which are similar to existing numerical wave events, instead of trying to reproduce measured events. This procedure reduces the computational time, as well as computational costs, to an industrially acceptable level. Traditional load estimation is not able to provide such reliable detailed local load history for structural design purpose at areas exposed to wave impacts. Therefore, topside modules are currently not installed in such areas. This new procedure, where CFD simulates realistic breaking waves with coupling to structural analysis tools, offers new possibilities for the design of structures subject to risk of green water loading.

System Identification Techniques for Prediction of Fluid Accelerations Under Irregular Waves Based on Free-Surface Elevation Measurements

2002 ◽  
Author(s):  
Witold Cies´likiewicz ◽  
Ove T. Gudmestad
Keyword(s):  
Time Series ◽  
Particle Acceleration ◽  
Free Surface ◽  
System Identification ◽  
Surface Elevation ◽  
Irregular Waves ◽  
Free Surface Elevation ◽  
Acceleration Time ◽  
Wave Kinematics ◽  
Identification Techniques

A parametric model linking the free-surface elevations with the fluid acceleration field under an irregular wave is developed. In order to estimate the parameters of the model, system identification procedures are applied based on data recorded in a wave tank. The free-surface time series are taken as input data and the output data are components of the particle acceleration vector. The particle acceleration time series were obtained by taking the numerical derivative of the measured orbital velocity time series. A simple algorithm of numerical diffrentiation is proposed. This algorithm gives very accurate values of the particle acceleration and is quite straightforward as the derivative is computed directly in time domain. A linear time-invariant model with the static nonlinearities incorporated at the input side is assumed. This paper demonstrates the results of modelling the horizontal component of the particle acceleration in comparison with the time series calculated from wave kinematics data taken in a wave flume during an earlier experiment using Laser Doppler Velocimetry. The modelled particle acceleration time series compare well with those calculated from the observed velocity time series. This proves the effectiveness of the applied approach. The system identification techniques allow for preparing the model which constructs the wave kinematics (both velocities and accelerations) using the measured time series of only the free-surface elevation. This feature of the proposed approach may be very useful in maritime engineering and oceanography.

scholarly journals SPECTRAL DESCRIPTION OF ENERGY DISSIPATION IN BREAKING WAVE GROUPS

2011 ◽  
Vol 1 (32) ◽  
pp. 19
Author(s):  
James Kaihatu ◽  
Hoda M. El Safty
Keyword(s):  
Time Series ◽  
Free Surface ◽  
Spectral Density ◽  
Dissipation Rate ◽  
Long Waves ◽  
Surface Elevation ◽  
Breaking Wave ◽  
Random Waves ◽  
Free Surface Elevation ◽  
Wave Groups

The dissipation characteristics of laboratory breaking wave groups and random waves are studied. A time-domain eddy viscosity model is used to represent the breaking wave, and the instantaneous dissipation time series deduced from measurements of free surface elevation. Fourier series of these time series yields the dissipation rate as a function of frequency, the frequency dependence of which has been shown to be the inverse of that of the spectral density of free surface elevation for random waves. It is shown that the inverse relationship between the dissipation rate and the free surface spectral density does not appear to hold for wave groups, likely due to the presence of generated long waves in the dissipation time series. These long waves introduce a periodicity into the dissipation time series and inhibit any true randomness from developing. The overall bulk dissipation is calculated from the dissipation rate for both the wave groups and random waves. It appears that, overall, the wave groups undergo a greater degree of dissipation than equivalent random waves.

Numerical Investigation of Focused Waves and Their Interaction With a Vertical Cylinder Using REEF3D

2017 ◽  
Vol 139 (4) ◽  
Author(s):  
Hans Bihs ◽  
Mayilvahanan Alagan Chella ◽  
Arun Kamath ◽  
Øivind Asgeir Arntsen
Keyword(s):  
Free Surface ◽  
Stokes Equations ◽  
Free Surface Flows ◽  
Surface Elevation ◽  
Numerical Wave Tank ◽  
Free Surface Elevation ◽  
Wave Tank ◽  
Numerical Wave ◽  
Focused Wave ◽  
The Impact

For the stability of offshore structures, such as offshore wind foundations, extreme wave conditions need to be taken into account. Waves from extreme events are critical from the design perspective. In a numerical wave tank, extreme waves can be modeled using focused waves. Here, linear waves are generated from a wave spectrum. The wave crests of the generated waves coincide at a preselected location and time. Focused wave generation is implemented in the numerical wave tank module of REEF3D, which has been extensively and successfully tested for various wave hydrodynamics and wave–structure interaction problems in particular and for free surface flows in general. The open-source computational fluid dynamics (CFD) code REEF3D solves the three-dimensional Navier–Stokes equations on a staggered Cartesian grid. Higher order numerical schemes are used for time and spatial discretization. For the interface capturing, the level set method is selected. In order to test the generated waves, the time series of the free surface elevation are compared with experimental benchmark cases. The numerically simulated free surface elevation shows good agreement with experimental data. In further computations, the impact of the focused waves on a vertical circular cylinder is investigated. A breaking focused wave is simulated and the associated kinematics is investigated. Free surface flow features during the interaction of nonbreaking focused waves with a cylinder and during the breaking process of a focused wave are also investigated along with the numerically captured free surface.

Nonlinear Wave Crest Distribution on a Vertical Breakwater

2018 ◽  
Author(s):  
Valentina Laface ◽  
Giovanni Malara ◽  
Felice Arena ◽  
Ioannis A. Kougioumtzoglou ◽  
Alessandra Romolo
Keyword(s):  
Experimental Data ◽  
Free Surface ◽  
Vertical Wall ◽  
Surface Elevation ◽  
Wave Crest ◽  
Height Distribution ◽  
Free Surface Elevation ◽  
Pressure Transducers ◽  
Pressure Time ◽  
Time Histories

The paper addresses the problem of deriving the nonlinear, up to the second order, crest wave height probability distribution in front of a vertical wall under the assumption of finite spectral bandwidth, finite water depth and long-crested waves. The distribution is derived by relying on the Quasi-Deterministic representation of the free surface elevation in front of the vertical wall. The theoretical results are compared against experimental data obtained by utilizing a compressive sensing algorithm for reconstructing the free surface elevation in front of the wall. The reconstruction is pursued by starting from recorded wave pressure time histories obtained by utilizing a row of pressure transducers located at various levels. The comparison shows that there is an excellent agreement between the proposed distribution and the experimental data and confirm the deviation of the crest height distribution from the Rayleigh one.

scholarly journals On generation and propagation of tsunamis in a shallow running ocean

1978 ◽  
Vol 1 (3) ◽  
pp. 373-390
Author(s):  
Lokenath Debnath ◽  
Uma Basu
Keyword(s):  
Free Surface ◽  
Three Dimensional ◽  
Relative Magnitude ◽  
Ocean Floor ◽  
Surface Elevation ◽  
Free Surface Elevation ◽  
Surface Disturbance ◽  
Fourier And Laplace Transforms ◽  
The Given ◽  
Integral Solutions

A theory is presented of the generation and propagation of the two and the three dimensional tsunamis in a shallow running ocean due to the action of an arbitrary ocean floor or ocean surface disturbance. Integral solutions for both two and three dimensional problems are obtained by using the generalized Fourier and Laplace transforms. An asymptotic analysis is carried out for the investigation of the principal features of the free surface elevation. It is found that the propagation of the tsunamis depends on the relative magnitude of the given speed of the running ocean and the wave speed of the shallow ocean. When the speed of the running ocean is less than the speed of the shallow ocean wave, both the two and the three dimensional free surface elevation represent the generation and propagation of surface waves which decay asymptotically ast−12for the two dimensional case and ast−1for the three dimensional tsunamis. Several important features of the solution are discussed in some detail. As an application of the general theory, some physically realistic ocean floor disturbances are included in this paper.

Focused Plunging Breaking Waves Impact on Cylinder Group in Deep Water

2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
Ting Cui ◽  
Arun Kamath ◽  
Weizhi Wang ◽  
Lihao Yuan ◽  
Duanfeng Han ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Free Surface ◽  
Deep Water ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Surface Elevation ◽  
Relative Distance ◽  
Structural Safety ◽  
Wave Forces ◽  
Free Surface Elevation ◽  
Single Cylinder ◽  
Numerical Wave

Abstract The correct estimation of wave loading on a cylinder in a cylinder group under different impact scenarios is essential to determine the structural safety of coastal and offshore structures. This scenario differs from the interaction of waves with a single cylinder but not a lot of studies focus on cylinder groups under different arrangements. In this study, the interaction between plunging breaking waves and cylinder groups in deep water is investigated using the two-phase flow model in REEF3D, an open-source computational fluid dynamics program. The Reynolds-averaged Navier-Stokes equation with the two equation k–Ω turbulence model is adopted to resolve the numerical wave tank, with free surface calculated using the level set method. In this study, focused waves in deep water were modeled with a fixed wave steepness method. Wave breaking occurs when the steepness of the wave crest front satisfies the breaking criteria. The model is validated by comparing the numerical wave forces and free surface elevation with measurements from experiments. The computational results show fairly good agreement with experimental data for both free surface elevation and wave forces. Four cases are simulated to investigate the interaction of breaking waves with a cylinder group with different relative distance, number of cylinders and arrangement. Results show that breaking wave forces on the upstream cylinder are smaller than on a single cylinder with a relative distance of one cylinder diameter. The wave forces on cylinders in the pile group are effected by the relative distance between cylinders. The staggered arrangement has a significant influence on the wave forces on the first and second cylinder. The interaction inside a cylinder group mostly happens between the neighbouring cylinders. These interactions are also effected by the relative distance and the numbers of the neighbouring cylinders.

On uniqueness and solvability in the linearized two-dimensional problem of a supercritical stream about a surface-piercing body

1995 ◽  
Vol 450 (1939) ◽  
pp. 233-253 ◽  
Keyword(s):  
Free Surface ◽  
Linear Relation ◽  
Existence Of Solutions ◽  
Surface Elevation ◽  
Two Dimensional ◽  
Dimensional Problem ◽  
Free Surface Elevation ◽  
Unique Existence ◽  
Velocity Circulation ◽  
Well Posed

Uniqueness and solvability theorems are proved for a well-posed formulation of the two-dimensional Neumann-Kelvin problem (the modified Neumann-Kelvin problem) in the case, when a body is partly immersed in a supercritical stream. Uniqueness is provided by two supplementary conditions which prescribe (i) additional flux at infinity downstream due to presence of body and (ii) a linear relation between the free-surface elevation at stern point and the velocity circulation along wetted contour. Two versions of source method are developed to find a solution. The first version is simpler, but it fails for some irregular values of the body’s velocity. In the second ver­sion complex sources’ strengths are used, avoiding irregular values and establishing the unique existence of solutions.

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