Wind Input, Surface Dissipation and Directional Properties in Shoaling Waves

2000 ◽  
Author(s):  
Hans C. Graber ◽  
Mark A. Donelan ◽  
William M. Drennan ◽  
Fred W. Dobson
Keyword(s):  
Input Surface ◽  
Wind Input ◽  
Shoaling Waves

scholarly journals The Accelerations of a Wave Measurement Buoy Impacted by Breaking Waves in the Surf Zone

2021 ◽  
Vol 9 (2) ◽  
pp. 214
Author(s):  
Adam C. Brown ◽  
Robert K. Paasch
Keyword(s):  
Inertial Measurement Unit ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Spherical Wave ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Measurement Unit ◽  
High Fidelity ◽  
Wave Measurement ◽  
Near Shore ◽  
Shoaling Waves ◽  
Multiple Deployments

A spherical wave measurement buoy capable of detecting breaking waves has been designed and built. The buoy is 16 inches in diameter and houses a 9 degree of freedom inertial measurement unit (IMU). The orientation and acceleration of the buoy is continuously logged at frequencies up to 200 Hz providing a high fidelity description of the motion of the buoy as it is impacted by breaking waves. The buoy was deployed several times throughout the winter of 2013–2014. Both moored and free-drifting data were acquired in near-shore shoaling waves off the coast of Newport, OR. Almost 200 breaking waves of varying type and intensity were measured over the course of multiple deployments. The characteristic signature of spilling and plunging breakers was identified in the IMU data.

Shoaling waves simulator

1998 ◽  
Author(s):  
Suzanne M. Lea ◽  
Matthew Lybanon ◽  
Peter M. Smith
Keyword(s):  
Shoaling Waves

scholarly journals Incipient motion of coarse particles under regular shoaling waves

2006 ◽  
Vol 53 (1) ◽  
pp. 81-92 ◽  
Author(s):  
Emanuele Terrile ◽  
Ad J.H.M. Reniers ◽  
Marcel J.F. Stive ◽  
Maarten Tromp ◽  
Henk Jan Verhagen
Keyword(s):  
Coarse Particles ◽  
Incipient Motion ◽  
Shoaling Waves

Space-Time Imaging of Shoaling Waves and Surf

2002 ◽  
Author(s):  
John P. Dugan ◽  
Cindy C. Piotrowski ◽  
J. Zandy Williams ◽  
K. Todd Holland
Keyword(s):  
Space Time ◽  
Shoaling Waves

Increased Aerodynamic Roughness Owing to Surfzone Foam

2017 ◽  
Vol 47 (8) ◽  
pp. 2115-2122 ◽  
Author(s):  
Jamie MacMahan
Keyword(s):  
Wind Stress ◽  
Source Region ◽  
Sandy Beaches ◽  
Open Ocean ◽  
Alternative Mechanism ◽  
Monterey Bay ◽  
Atmospheric Conditions ◽  
Near Shore ◽  
Shoaling Waves ◽  
Aerodynamic Roughness

AbstractDrag coefficients Cd obtained through direct eddy covariance estimates of the wind stress were observed at four different sandy beaches with dissipative surfzones along the coastline of Monterey Bay, California. The measured surfzone Cd (~2 × 10−3) is twice as large as open-ocean estimates and consistent with recent estimates of Cd over the surfzone and shoaling region. Owing to the heterogeneous nature of the near shore consisting of nonbreaking shoaling waves and breaking surfzone waves, the surfzone wind stress source region is estimated from the footprint probability distribution derived for stable and unstable atmospheric conditions. An empirical model developed for estimating the Cd for open-ocean foam coverage dependent on wind speed is modified for foam coverage owing to depth-limited wave breaking within the surfzone. A modified empirical Cd model for surfzone foam predicts similar values as the measured Cd and provides an alternative mechanism to describe roughness.

Measured Internal Kinematics for Shoaling Waves with Theoretical Comparisons

1992 ◽  
Vol 118 (3) ◽  
pp. 280-299 ◽  
Author(s):  
M. W. Griffiths ◽  
W. J. Easson ◽  
C. A. Greated
Keyword(s):  
Shoaling Waves
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