scholarly journals Wave Climate at Shallow Waters along the Abu Dhabi Coast

Water ◽  
2018 ◽  
Vol 10 (8) ◽  
pp. 985 ◽  
Author(s):  
Waleed Hamza ◽  
Letizia Lusito ◽  
Francesco Ligorio ◽  
Giuseppe Tomasicchio ◽  
Felice D’Alessandro
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water ◽  
Numerical Models ◽  
Grid Point ◽  
Arabian Gulf ◽  
Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler ◽  
Wave Climate ◽  
Abu Dhabi ◽  
Water Conditions ◽  
Key Factor ◽  
Offshore Wave

High-resolution, reliable global atmospheric and oceanic numerical models can represent a key factor in designing a coastal intervention. At the present, two main centers have the capabilities to produce them: the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) in the U.S.A. and the European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts (ECMWF). The NOAA and ECMWF wave models are developed, in particular, for different water regions: deep, intermediate, and shallow water regions using different types of spatial and temporal grids. Recently, in the Arabian Gulf (also named Persian Gulf), the Abu Dhabi Municipality (ADM) installed an ADCP (Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler) to observe the atmospheric and oceanographic conditions (water level, significant wave height, peak wave period, water temperature, and wind speed and direction) at 6 m water depth, in the vicinity of the shoreline of the Saadiyat beach. Courtesy of Abu Dhabi Municipality, this observations dataset is available; the recorded data span the period from June 2015 to January 2018 (included), with a time resolution of 10 min and 30 min for the atmospheric and oceanographic variables, respectively. At the ADCP deployment location (ADMins), the wave climate has been determined using wave propagation of the NOAA offshore wave dataset by means of the Simulating WAves Nearshore (SWAN) numerical model, the NOAA and ECMWF wave datasets at the closest grid point in shallow water conditions, and the SPM ’84 hindcasting method with the NOAA wind dataset used as input. It is shown that the best agreement with the observed wave climate is obtained using the SPM ’84 hindcasting method for the shallow water conditions.

scholarly journals On the feasibility of the use of wind SAR to downscale waves on shallow water

Ocean Science ◽  
2016 ◽  
Vol 12 (1) ◽  
pp. 39-49 ◽  
Author(s):  
O. Q. Gutiérrez ◽  
F. Filipponi ◽  
A. Taramelli ◽  
E. Valentini ◽  
P. Camus ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water ◽  
Spatial Resolution ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Wave Climate ◽  
Wind Fields ◽  
Northern Adriatic Sea ◽  
Northern Adriatic ◽  
Wave Fields ◽  
Wind Regimes ◽  
Offshore Wave

Abstract. In recent years, wave reanalyses have become popular as a powerful source of information for wave climate research and engineering applications. These wave reanalyses provide continuous time series of offshore wave parameters; nevertheless, in coastal areas or shallow water, waves are poorly described because spatial resolution is not detailed. By means of wave downscaling, it is possible to increase spatial resolution in high temporal coverage simulations, using forcing from wind and offshore wave databases. Meanwhile, the reanalysis wave databases are enough to describe the wave climate at the limit of simulations; wind reanalyses at an adequate spatial resolution to describe the wind structure near the coast are not frequently available. Remote sensing synthetic aperture radar (SAR) has the ability to detect sea surface signatures and estimate wind fields at high resolution (up to 300 m) and high frequency. In this work a wave downscaling is done on the northern Adriatic Sea, using a hybrid methodology and global wave and wind reanalysis as forcing. The wave fields produced were compared to wave fields produced with SAR winds that represent the two dominant wind regimes in the area: the bora (ENE direction) and sirocco (SE direction). Results show a good correlation between the waves forced with reanalysis wind and SAR wind. In addition, a validation of reanalysis is shown. This research demonstrates how Earth observation products, such as SAR wind fields, can be successfully up-taken into oceanographic modeling, producing similar downscaled wave fields when compared to waves forced with reanalysis wind.

scholarly journals Tsunami propagation kernel and its applications

2021 ◽  
Vol 21 (7) ◽  
pp. 2093-2108
Author(s):  
Takenori Shimozono
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water ◽  
Kernel Method ◽  
Numerical Models ◽  
Computational Cost ◽  
Specific Area ◽  
Tsunami Propagation ◽  
Wave Data ◽  
Kernel Convolution ◽  
Tsunami Risk ◽  
Offshore Wave

Abstract. Tsunamis rarely occur in a specific area, and their occurrence is highly uncertain. Suddenly generated from their sources in deep water, they occasionally undergo tremendous amplification in shallow water to devastate low-lying coastal areas. Despite the advancement of computational power and simulation algorithms, there is a need for novel and rigorous approaches to efficiently predict coastal amplification of tsunamis during different disaster management phases, such as tsunami risk assessment and real-time forecast. This study presents convolution kernels that can instantly predict onshore waveforms of water surface elevation and flow velocity from observed/simulated wave data away from the shore. Kernel convolution involves isolating an incident-wave component from the offshore wave data and transforming it into the onshore waveform. Moreover, unlike previously derived ones, the present kernels are based on shallow-water equations with a damping term and can account for tsunami attenuation on its path to the shore with a damping parameter. Kernel convolution can be implemented at a low computational cost compared to conventional numerical models that discretise the spatial domain. The prediction capability of the kernel method was demonstrated through application to real-world tsunami cases.

scholarly journals Remarks on the Boundary Conditions for a Serre-Type Model Extended to Intermediate-Waters

Modelling ◽  
2021 ◽  
Vol 2 (4) ◽  
pp. 626-640
Author(s):  
José Simão Antunes Do Carmo
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water ◽  
Nonlinear Models ◽  
Numerical Models ◽  
Wave Theory ◽  
Coastal Protection ◽  
Type Model ◽  
Water Conditions ◽  
Potential Risks ◽  
Bathymetric Changes ◽  
Limited Depth

Numerical models are useful tools for studying complex wave–wave and wave–current interactions in coastal areas. They are also very useful for assessing the potential risks of flooding, hydrodynamic actions on coastal protection structures, bathymetric changes along the coast, and scour phenomena on structures’ foundations. In the coastal zone, there are shallow-water conditions where several nonlinear processes occur. These processes change the flow patterns and interact with the moving bottom. Only fully nonlinear models with the addition of dispersive terms have the potential to reproduce all phenomena with sufficient accuracy. The Boussinesq and Serre models have such characteristics. However, both standard versions of these models are weakly dispersive, being restricted to shallow-water conditions. The need to extend them to deeper waters has given rise to several works that, essentially, add more or fewer terms of dispersive origin. This approach is followed here, giving rise to a set of extended Serre equations up to kh ≈ π. Based on the wavemaker theory, it is also shown that for kh > π/10, the input boundary condition obtained for shallow-waters within the Airy wave theory for 2D waves is not valid. A better estimate for the input wave that satisfies a desired value of kh can be obtained considering a geometrical modification of the conventional shape of the classic piston wavemaker by a limited depth θh, with θ≤ 1.0.

scholarly journals A NUMERICAL SOLUTION OF BOUSSINESQ TYPE WAVE EQUATIONS

1984 ◽  
Vol 1 (19) ◽  
pp. 72 ◽  
Author(s):  
H. Schaper ◽  
W. Sielke
Keyword(s):  
Boundary Conditions ◽  
Numerical Solution ◽  
Shallow Water ◽  
Wave Equations ◽  
Numerical Models ◽  
Practical Interest ◽  
Wave Climate ◽  
Recent Discussion ◽  
Short Waves ◽  
Transfer Capability

Numerical models of short waves in shallow water, which are of particular interest for the calculation of the wave climate in harbours and coastal areas, have been presented by Abbott et al. (1978) and by Hauguel (1980). These models are based on the solution of the Boussinesq or Serre type equations. A recent discussion of the range of application for the equations has been presented by McCowan (1982). Nevertheless, there is some uncertainty as to which terms in the differential equations are of importance, and how they are to be approximated. Therefore, no final judgement can presently be made on the accuracy and credibility of the solutions. Research on such models is still in progress and is of high theoretical and practical interest. Some of the aspects of current research relate to the handling of nonlinear terms, the non-reflecting boundary conditions and the transfer capability of the models for spectral input. This paper will reflect on these points.

scholarly journals On the feasibility of the use of wind SAR to downscale waves on shallow water

2015 ◽  
Vol 12 (4) ◽  
pp. 1567-1593
Author(s):  
O. Q. Gutiérrez ◽  
F. Filipponi ◽  
A. Taramelli ◽  
E. Valentini ◽  
P. Camus ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water ◽  
Spatial Resolution ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Wave Climate ◽  
Wind Fields ◽  
Northern Adriatic Sea ◽  
Northern Adriatic ◽  
Wave Fields ◽  
Offshore Wave ◽  
Wave Reanalysis

Abstract. On the recent years wave reanalysis have become popular as a powerful source of information for wave climate research and engineering applications. These wave reanalysis provide continuous time-series of offshore wave parameters, nevertheless on coastal areas or shallow water waves are poorly described because spatial resolution is not detailed. By means of wave downscaling it is possible to increase spatial resolution in high temporal coverage simulations, using forcing from wind and offshore wave databases. Meanwhile the reanalysis wave databases are enough to describe the wave climate on the limit of simulations, wind reanalysis at an adequate spatial resolution to describe the wind structure near the coast are not frequently available. Remote Sensing Synthetic Aperture Radar (SAR) has the ability to detect sea surface signatures and estimate wind field at high resolution (up to 300 m) and high frequency. In this work a wave downscaling is done on the northern Adriatic sea, using an hybrid methodology and Global wave and wind reanalysis as forcing. The wave fields produced were compared to wave fields produced with SAR winds that represent the two dominant wind regimes in the area: the Bora (ENE direction) and Sirocco (SE direction). Results show a good correlation between the waves forced with reanalysis wind and SAR wind. In addition, a validation of reanalysis is shown. This research demonstrates how Earth Observation products, as SAR wind fields, can be successfully up-taken into oceanographic modeling, producing similar downscaled wave field when compared to waves forced with reanalysis wind.

scholarly journals Kelvin wave hydraulic control induced by interactions between vortices and topography

2011 ◽  
Vol 687 ◽  
pp. 194-208 ◽  
Author(s):  
Andrew McC. Hogg ◽  
William K. Dewar ◽  
Pavel Berloff ◽  
Marshall L. Ward
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water ◽  
Analytical Solutions ◽  
Critical Condition ◽  
Numerical Models ◽  
Kelvin Waves ◽  
Water Model ◽  
Hydraulic Jumps ◽  
Hydraulic Control ◽  
Kelvin Wave ◽  
Shallow Water Model

AbstractThe interaction of a dipolar vortex with topography is examined using a combination of analytical solutions and idealized numerical models. It is shown that an anticyclonic vortex may generate along-topography flow with sufficient speeds to excite hydraulic control with respect to local Kelvin waves. A critical condition for Kelvin wave hydraulic control is found for the simplest case of a 1.5-layer shallow water model. It is proposed that in the continuously stratified case this mechanism may allow an interaction between low mode vortices and higher mode Kelvin waves, thereby generating rapidly converging isopycnals and hydraulic jumps. Thus, Kelvin wave hydraulic control may contribute to the flux of energy from mesoscale to smaller, unbalanced, scales of motion in the ocean.

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