scholarly journals Bathymetric Inversion and Uncertainty Estimation from Synthetic Surf-Zone Imagery with Machine Learning

2020 ◽  
Vol 12 (20) ◽  
pp. 3364
Author(s):  
Adam Collins ◽  
Katherine Brodie ◽  
Andrew Spicer Bak ◽  
Tyler Hesser ◽  
Matthew Farthing ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Surf Zone ◽  
Mean Squared Error ◽  
Numerical Models ◽  
Wave Theory ◽  
Complete Information ◽  
Breaking Wave ◽  
Linear Wave ◽  
Wave Refraction ◽  
Additional Information ◽  
Single Frame

Resolving surf-zone bathymetry from high-resolution imagery typically involves measuring wave speeds and performing a physics-based inversion process using linear wave theory, or data assimilation techniques which combine multiple remotely sensed parameters with numerical models. In this work, we explored what types of coastal imagery can be best utilized in a 2-dimensional fully convolutional neural network to directly estimate nearshore bathymetry from optical expressions of wave kinematics. Specifically, we explored utilizing time-averaged images (timex) of the surf-zone, which can be used as a proxy for wave dissipation, as well as including a single-frame image input, which has visible patterns of wave refraction and instantaneous expressions of wave breaking. Our results show both types of imagery can be used to estimate nearshore bathymetry. However, the single-frame imagery provides more complete information across the domain, decreasing the error over the test set by approximately 10% relative to using timex imagery alone. A network incorporating both inputs had the best performance, with an overall root-mean-squared-error of 0.39 m. Activation maps demonstrate the additional information provided by the single-frame imagery in non-breaking wave areas which aid in prediction. Uncertainty in model predictions is explored through three techniques (Monte Carlo (MC) dropout, infer-transformation, and infer-noise) to provide additional actionable information about the spatial reliability of each bathymetric prediction.

scholarly journals A MODEL FOR BREAKER DECAY ON BEACHES

1984 ◽  
Vol 1 (19) ◽  
pp. 6 ◽  
Author(s):  
William R. Dally ◽  
Robert G. Dean ◽  
Robert A. Dalrymple
Keyword(s):  
Surf Zone ◽  
Laboratory Data ◽  
Wave Theory ◽  
Energy Balance Equation ◽  
Bottom Friction ◽  
Breaking Wave ◽  
Linear Wave ◽  
Wave Decay ◽  
Equilibrium Beach Profile ◽  
Wide Range

Based on the observation that a shallow water breaking wave propagating over a region of uniform depth will reform and stabilize after some distance, an intuitive expression for the rate of energy dissipation is developed. Using linear wave theory and the energy balance equation, analytical solutions for monochromatic waves breaking on a flat shelf, plane slope, and "equilibrium" beach profile are presented and compared to laboratory data from Horikawa and Kuo (1966) with favorable results. Set-down/up in the mean water level, bottom friction losses, and bottom profiles of arbitrary shape are then introduced and the equations solved numerically. The model is calibrated and verified to laboratory data with very good results for wave decay for a wide range of beach slopes and incident conditions, but not so favorable for set-up. A test run on a prototype scale profile containing two bar and trough systems demonstrates the model's ability to describe the shoaling, breaking, and wave reformation process commonly observed in nature. Bottom friction is found to play a negligible role in wave decay in the surf zone when compared to shoaling and breaking.

scholarly journals WAVE HEIGHT DECAY MODEL WITHIN A SURF ZONE

1986 ◽  
Vol 1 (20) ◽  
pp. 52
Author(s):  
Shigeki Sakai ◽  
Kouetsu Hiyamizu ◽  
Hiroshi Saeki
Keyword(s):  
Energy Dissipation ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Wave Theory ◽  
Momentum Balance ◽  
Breaking Wave ◽  
Good Prediction ◽  
Linear Wave ◽  
Energy And Momentum ◽  
Spilling Breaker

A model for wave height decay of a spilling breaker is proposed. The energy dissipation of a breaking wave is approximated by that of a propagating bore. In order to explain the gentle decay of spilling breaker at the initial stage, a development of a foam region, which indicates the amount of foam on the wave profile and determines the rate of energy dissipation, is considered. In addition to this formulation, the energy and momentum balance equations are described by a linear wave theory in shallow water and are simultaneously solved. Comparisons with experimental results show that the model gives a good prediction in both inner and outer regions, and that two coefficients in the present model are related to the deep water wave steepness and the slope of beaches.

A Methodology to Characterize Internal Solitons in the Ocean

2018 ◽  
Author(s):  
Henrique Coelho ◽  
Zhong Peng ◽  
Dave Sproson ◽  
Jill Bradon
Keyword(s):  
Internal Waves ◽  
Large Scale ◽  
Numerical Models ◽  
Phase Speed ◽  
Selection Procedure ◽  
Wave Theory ◽  
Tidal Energy ◽  
Internal Tides ◽  
Linear Wave ◽  
Soliton Generation

Internal waves in the ocean occur in stably stratified fluids when a water parcel is vertically displaced by some external forcing and is restored by buoyancy forces. A specific case of such internal waves is internal tides and their associated currents. These currents can be significant in areas where internal waves degenerate into nonlinear solitary waves, known as solitons. Solitons are potentially hazardous for offshore engineering constructions, such as oil/gas pipelines and floating platforms. The most efficient mechanism of soliton generation is the tidal energy conversion from barotropic to baroclinic component over large-scale oceanic bottom obstructions (shelf breaks, seamounts, canyons and ridges). In this paper, a methodology is provided to compute diagnostics and prognostics for soliton generation and propagation, including the associated currents. The methodology comprises a diagnostic tool which, through the use of a set of theoretical and empirical formulations, selects areas where solitons are likely to occur. These theoretical and empirical formulations include the computation of the integral body force (1), the linear wave theory to compute the phase speed and the empirical model proposed by (2). After the selection procedure, the tool provides initial and boundary conditions for non-hydrostatic numerical models. The numerical models run in 2D-V configuration (vertical slices) with horizontal and vertical resolutions ranging from 50 to 200 m and 5 to 10 m, respectively. Examples are provided for an open ocean location over the Mascarene Plateau in the Indian Ocean. Validation of diagnostics and prognostics are provided against ADCP and satellite data.

scholarly journals NUMERICAL MODEL OF BREAKING WAVE AROUND A RIVER MOUTH

1986 ◽  
Vol 1 (20) ◽  
pp. 97
Author(s):  
Jong-Sup Lee ◽  
Toru Sawaragi ◽  
Ichiro Deguchi
Keyword(s):  
Numerical Model ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Small Amplitude ◽  
River Mouth ◽  
Wave Theory ◽  
Experimental Result ◽  
Breaking Wave ◽  
Linear Wave ◽  
Amplitude Wave ◽  
Current Interaction

Equations for wave kinematics and wave dynamics based on small amplitude wave theory have been used in the prediction of wave deformations and wave-indused currents. However, the applicability of the linear wave theory is questionable in a river mouth where forced wave breaking and strong wave-current interaction take place. A numerical model based on the non-linear dispersive wave theory has been developed, the results by this model was compared with the values of the experiments and the linear theory. Wave transformations including shoaling, wave-current interaction and wave breaking by the model showed a good agreement with the experimental result. In the prediction of wave-induced currents, the excess momentum flux (Pxx) computed by the model has more reasonable value than the radiation stress ( Sxx) calculated by the small amplitude wave theory.

scholarly journals BORE PROPAGATION SPEED AT THE TERMINATION OF WAVE BREAKING

2011 ◽  
Vol 1 (32) ◽  
pp. 7 ◽  
Author(s):  
Takashi Okamoto ◽  
Conceição Juana Fortes ◽  
David R. Basco
Keyword(s):  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Propagation Speed ◽  
Wave Theory ◽  
Theoretical Models ◽  
Breaking Wave ◽  
Linear Wave ◽  
Mass Transportation ◽  
Higher Harmonics ◽  
Wave Celerity ◽  
Set Up

Wave breaking is the most important event in nearshore hydrodynamics because of the energy exertion and mass transportation during the event drive all the nearshore phenomena, such as wave set-up/down, long shore current, and nearshore circulation. Wave celerity is a key parameter in wave breaking especially for the mass transportation, the energy dissipation during the wave breaking event, and the wave breaking index calculation, for example. There are many models to calculate the wave celerity during the breaking event (bore propagation speed) and it is well known that the bore propagation speed is faster than that is given by linear wave theory. But Okamoto et al. (2008) found the bore propagation speed at the termination location of wave breaking becomes much slower than the theoretical estimation when the termination of wave breaking occurs on inversely sloped bottom. In this paper, the bore propagation speed at the termination location of wave breaking is examined with the experimental data collected in a wave tank with simplified bar-trough beach settings. Comparisons with theoretical models are presented. Fourier analysis is performed to investigate the evolution of higher harmonics and synthesized time series, which is a simple summation of linear wave components, is constructed by using the obtained information to calculate the wave celerity during and after the wave breaking. Calculation result reveals that as the breaking wave approaches to the termination, the bore propagation speed decreases towards the value which can be explained by the existence of slowly and independently propagating higher harmonics.

Cyclic Soil Loads on an Offshore Wind Turbine During Storm

2018 ◽  
Author(s):  
Shaofeng Wang ◽  
Torben J. Larsen
Keyword(s):  
Wind Turbine ◽  
Wave Theory ◽  
Offshore Wind ◽  
Irregular Waves ◽  
Offshore Wind Turbine ◽  
Breaking Wave ◽  
Cyclic Loads ◽  
Linear Wave ◽  
Pile Settlement ◽  
Cyclic Degradation

Offshore wind turbines are subjected to combined static and cyclic loads due to its self weight, wind, current and waves. For the design of support structures, a point of concern is whether the highly varying loads may cause cyclic degradation of the soil leading to a permanent undesired pile settlement and tilting for the wind turbine. In particular during a severe storm, the large cyclic loads are being more critical as the wind and waves are typically from a single direction. The DTU 10MW wind turbine supported by a jacket at 33 m water depth is considered in this study, where the piles are axially loaded in order to bear the moment under wind and wave actions. This paper investigates the cyclic loads using traditional linear irregular waves and fully nonlinear irregular waves realized from the wave solver Ocean-Wave3D previously validated until near-breaking wave conditions. This study shows that the nonlinear irregular waves introduce more extreme cyclic loads, which result in significantly larger pile settlement than using linear wave realizations. For the case in this study, linear wave theory underestimates pile settlement at least 30% compared to nonlinear wave realizations.

scholarly journals COMPUTATIONS OF LONGSHORE CURRENTS

1964 ◽  
Vol 1 (9) ◽  
pp. 12
Author(s):  
Tsao-Yi Chiu ◽  
Per Bruun
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Wave Spectrum ◽  
Wave Theory ◽  
Breaking Wave ◽  
Height Distribution ◽  
Longshore Current ◽  
Longshore Currents ◽  
Actual Height

This article introduces the longshore current computations based on theories published under the title "Longshore Currents and Longshore Troughs" (Bruun, 1963). Two approaches are used to formulate the longshore current velocities for a beach profile with one bar under the following assumptions: (1) that longshore current is evenly distributed (or a mean can be taken) along the depthj (2) that the solitary wave theory is applicable for waves in the surf zone; (3) that the statistical wave-height distribution for a deep water wave spectrum with a single narrow band of frequencies can be used near the shore, and (4) that the depth over the bar crest, Dcr, equal 0.8Hv/i /o\. Breaking wave height H^Q/^X is designated to be the actual height equal to Hw-j (significant wave height). Diagrams have been constructed for both approaches for beach profiles with one bar, from which longshore current velocities caused by various wave-breaking conditions can be read directly. As for longshore currents along the beach with a multibar system, fifteen diagrams covering a great variety of wave-breaking conditions are provided for obtaining longshore current velocities in different troughs.

scholarly journals REFRACTION OF FINITE-HEIGHT AND BREAKING WAVES

1976 ◽  
Vol 1 (15) ◽  
pp. 28 ◽  
Author(s):  
James R. Walker
Keyword(s):  
Three Dimensional ◽  
Wave Theory ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Finite Amplitude ◽  
Primary Objective ◽  
Test Series ◽  
Data Sets ◽  
Linear Wave ◽  
Wave Refraction ◽  
Wave Shoaling

The primary objective of this study was to ascertain the influence of wave height and breaking on wave refraction over a three-dimensional shoal. The subject wave transformations were studied in an hydraulic model. Wave shoaling, decay in the breaker zone, and phase velocities were analyzed in a base test series over a bottom slope of 1:30. A second test series was conducted over a three-dimensional shoal. Wave patterns were photographed and wave heights and celerities were measured. The measurements were compared with wave refraction patterns and coefficients computed by analytical methods. Wave shoaling observed over the constant 1:30 slope was 25 percent greater than predicted by Airy theory at the breaking point for wave steepness H0/L0=.030 and 50 percent greater than predicted for H0/Lo = •002. Shoaling measurements were compared with other empirical data sets, confirming the inadequacy of commonly used practice using linear wave theory near the breaker zone. The celerity measurements indicated that the non-breaking celerity was given by C = (1+.25 H/d)Ca, where Ca is the Airy celerity. The discussion and results give a basic understanding of wave refraction near the breaker zone, supplementing analytical papers on refraction procedures using finite amplitude wave theories.

scholarly journals POLYNOMIAL APPROXIMATION AND WATER WAVES

1986 ◽  
Vol 1 (20) ◽  
pp. 15 ◽  
Author(s):  
John D. Fenton
Keyword(s):  
Polynomial Approximation ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Three Dimensional ◽  
Wave Theory ◽  
General Nature ◽  
Linear Wave ◽  
Wave Refraction ◽  
Approximate Wave ◽  
Spatial Approximation ◽  
Wave Problems

A different approach to the solution of water wave problems is considered. Instead of using an approximate wave theory combined with highly accurate global spatial approximation methods, as for example in many applications of linear wave theory, a method is developed which uses local polynomial approximation combined with the full nonlinear equations. The method is applied to the problem of inferring wave properties from the record of a pressure transducer, and is found to be capable of high accuracy for waves which are not too short, even for large amplitude waves. The general approach of polynomial approximation is well suited to problems of a rather more general nature, especially where the geometry is at all complicated. It may prove useful in other areas, such as the nonlinear interaction of long waves, shoaling of waves, and in three dimensional problems, such as nonlinear wave refraction and diffraction.

scholarly journals A NEW 3D ROLLER APPROACH FOR FACING ROTATIONAL SURF ZONE HYDRODYNAMICS

2011 ◽  
Vol 1 (32) ◽  
pp. 50
Author(s):  
Antonino Viviano ◽  
Rosaria Ester Musumeci ◽  
Enrico Foti
Keyword(s):  
Surf Zone ◽  
Numerical Models ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Wave Crest ◽  
Breaking Wave ◽  
Wake Effect ◽  
Highly Nonlinear ◽  
Rotational Momentum ◽  
Definition Of ◽  
Vorticity Transport

A 2DH highly nonlinear Boussinesq-type of model for breaking waves has been developed in order to investigate surf zone hydrodynamics, also in the presence of complex bathymetries. The set of equations includes continuity and rotational momentum equations, coupled with the vorticity transport equation. An appropriate spatial definition of the 3D roller concept, along with an algorithm for accurately tracking the roller position, have been on purposely developed. Several numerical simulations have been carried out for the case of a submerged elliptic shoal. The results have been compared with both experimental data and with the results of other numerical models available in the literature. Finally, the vorticity dynamics under a breaking wave has been analyzed both in time and space, showing that a fairly correct interpretation of the wake effect in the rear part of the wave crest is obtained.

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