scholarly journals Frequency Downshifting in Wave Spectra in Coastal Zone and Its Influence on Mudbank Formation

2020 ◽  
Vol 8 (9) ◽  
pp. 723
Author(s):  
Yana Saprykina ◽  
Margarita Shtremel ◽  
Samiksha Volvaiker ◽  
Sergey Kuznetsov
Keyword(s):  
Wave Attenuation ◽  
Wind Waves ◽  
Wave Spectrum ◽  
Peak Frequency ◽  
Southwest Monsoon ◽  
Main Peak ◽  
Coastal Zones ◽  
Frequency Peak ◽  
The Difference ◽  
Frequency Downshifting

The evolution of wind waves in coastal zones leads to changes in the shape of the wave spectrum. Along the coast of Kerala, due to the presence of mudbanks during the southwest monsoon, we could observe downshifting of the peak frequency in the wave spectral data. The present study aims at proving the mechanism of frequency downshifting and possible influence of the downshifting process on mudbank formation. The results of SWASH (Simulating WAves till SHore) modeling and bispectral analysis shows that frequency downshifting occurs due to the difference nonlinear triad interactions of the main frequency peak of the wave spectrum with frequencies of the infragravity range independent of the viscosity of the medium. The increase in wave dissipation accelerates frequency downshifting additionally, decreasing the wave energy in the main peak frequency. It is shown that frequency downshifting can be one of the possible wave mechanisms of mudbank formation due to essentially different wave attenuation coefficients at the beginning and end of this process. For muddy cohesive sediments, it will lead to formation with an erosive profile at first and then an accumulative profile, i.e., mudbank formation.

scholarly journals Random wave-driven drag forces on near-bed vegetation in shallow water based on deepwater wind conditions

2019 ◽  
Vol 233 (4) ◽  
pp. 1287-1290
Author(s):  
Dag Myrhaug
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water ◽  
Drag Force ◽  
Wind Waves ◽  
Wave Spectrum ◽  
Random Wave ◽  
Random Waves ◽  
Coastal Zones ◽  
Drag Forces ◽  
Mean Wind Speed ◽  
Wave Induced

This article provides a simple analytical method for giving estimates of random wave-driven drag forces on near-bed vegetation in shallow water from deepwater wind conditions. Results are exemplified using a Pierson–Moskowitz model wave spectrum for wind waves with the mean wind speed at the 10 m elevation above the sea surface as the parameter. The significant value of the drag force within a sea state of random waves is given, and an example typical for field conditions is presented. This method should serve as a useful tool for assessing random wave-induced drag force on vegetation in coastal zones and estuaries based on input from deepwater wind conditions.

Spectral Modeling of Ice-Induced Wave Decay

2020 ◽  
Vol 50 (6) ◽  
pp. 1583-1604 ◽  
Author(s):  
Qingxiang Liu ◽  
W. Erick Rogers ◽  
Alexander Babanin ◽  
Jingkai Li ◽  
Changlong Guan
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Wave Attenuation ◽  
Wave Spectrum ◽  
Wave Model ◽  
Beaufort Sea ◽  
Peak Frequency ◽  
Large Wave ◽  
Wave Decay ◽  
Operational Forecasts ◽  
The Antarctic

AbstractThree dissipative (two viscoelastic and one viscous) ice models are implemented in the spectral wave model WAVEWATCH III to estimate the ice-induced wave attenuation rate. These models are then explored and intercompared through hindcasts of two field cases: one in the autumn Beaufort Sea in 2015 and the other in the Antarctic marginal ice zone (MIZ) in 2012. The capability of these dissipative models, along with their limitations and applicability to operational forecasts, are analyzed and discussed. The sensitivity of the simulated wave height to different source terms—the ice-induced wave decay Sice and other physical processes Sother (e.g., wind input, nonlinear four-wave interactions)—is also investigated. For the Antarctic MIZ experiment, Sother is found to be remarkably less than Sice and thus contributes little to the simulated significant wave height Hs. The saturation of dHs/dx at large wave heights in this case, as reported by a previous study, is well reproduced by the three dissipative ice models with or without the utilization of Sother in the ice-infested seas. A clear downward trend in the peak frequency fp is found as Hs increases. As fp decreases, the dominant wave components of a wave spectrum will experience reduced damping by sea ice, and finally result in the flattening of dHs/dx for Hs > 3 m in this specific case. Nonetheless, Sother should not be disregarded within a more general modeling perspective, as our simulations suggest Sother could be comparable to Sice in the Beaufort Sea case where wave and ice conditions are remarkably different.

scholarly journals DIRECTIONAL SPECTRA OF OCEAN SURFACE WAVES

1976 ◽  
Vol 1 (15) ◽  
pp. 18 ◽  
Author(s):  
H. Mitsuyasu ◽  
S. Mizuno
Keyword(s):  
Angular Distribution ◽  
Frequency Spectrum ◽  
Wind Waves ◽  
Wave Spectrum ◽  
Ocean Waves ◽  
Peak Frequency ◽  
Spectral Peak ◽  
Energy Concentration ◽  
Spectral Energy ◽  
Directional Spectrum

From 1971-74 seven cruises were made to measure the directional spectrum of ocean waves by using a cloverleaf buoy. Typical sets of wave data measured both in open seas and in a bay under relatively simple conditions have been analyzed to clarify the fundamental properties of the directional spectrum of ocean waves in deep water. It is shown that the directional wave spectrum can be approximated by the product of the frequency spectrum and a unimodal angular distribution with mean direction approximately equal to that of the wind. The normalized forms of the frequency spectrum show various forms lying between the Pierson-Moskowitz spectrum and the spectrum of laboratory wind wave which has a very sharp energy concentration near the spectral peak frequency. The form of the JONSWAP spectrum is very close to that of laboratory wind waves. The concentration of the spectral energy near the spectral peak frequency seems to decrease with increasing the dimensionless fetch and the spectral form finally approaches to the Pierson-Moskowitz spectrum which can be considered as the spectrum with the least concentration of the normalized spectral energy. However, the definite relation between the shape of the normalized spectrum and the dimensionless fetch has not been obtained. Concerning the angular distribution, it is shown that the shape of angular distribution of the single-peaked wave spectrum in a generating area can be approximated by the function G(6,f) = G'(s) | cos (6-6)/2 | ** proposed originally by Longuet=Higgins et al. (1963). Here G'(s) is a normalizing function, 6 is the mean direction of the spectral component, and s is a parameter which controls the concentration of the angular distribution function.

scholarly journals Analysis and Interpretation of Frequency–Wavenumber Spectra of Young Wind Waves

2015 ◽  
Vol 45 (10) ◽  
pp. 2484-2496 ◽  
Author(s):  
Fabien Leckler ◽  
Fabrice Ardhuin ◽  
Charles Peureux ◽  
Alvise Benetazzo ◽  
Filippo Bergamasco ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Wind Wave ◽  
Wind Waves ◽  
Wave Spectrum ◽  
Peak Frequency ◽  
Bimodal Distribution ◽  
Second Order ◽  
The Black Sea ◽  
Full Spectrum ◽  
Directional Spectrum ◽  
Linear Waves

AbstractThe energy level and its directional distribution are key observations for understanding the energy balance in the wind-wave spectrum between wind-wave generation, nonlinear interactions, and dissipation. Here, properties of gravity waves are investigated from a fixed platform in the Black Sea, equipped with a stereo video system that resolves waves with frequency f up to 1.4 Hz and wavelengths from 0.6 to 11 m. One representative record is analyzed, corresponding to young wind waves with a peak frequency fp = 0.33 Hz and a wind speed of 13 m s−1. These measurements allow for a separation of the linear waves from the bound second-order harmonics. These harmonics are negligible for frequencies f up to 3 times fp but account for most of the energy at higher frequencies. The full spectrum is well described by a combination of linear components and the second-order spectrum. In the range 2fp to 4fp, the full frequency spectrum decays like f−5, which means a steeper decay of the linear spectrum. The directional spectrum exhibits a very pronounced bimodal distribution, with two peaks on either side of the wind direction, separated by 150° at 4fp. This large separation is associated with a significant amount of energy traveling in opposite directions and thus sources of underwater acoustic and seismic noise. The magnitude of these sources can be quantified by the overlap integral I(f), which is found to increase sharply from less than 0.01 at f = 2fp to 0.11 at f = 4fp and possibly up to 0.2 at f = 5fp, close to the 0.5π value proposed in previous studies.

scholarly journals Asymptotes of the nonlinear transfer and wave spectrum in the frame of the kinetic equation solution

2018 ◽  
Author(s):  
Vladislav G. Polnikov ◽  
Fangli Qiao ◽  
Yong Teng
Keyword(s):  
Energy Transfer ◽  
Kinetic Equation ◽  
Wave Spectrum ◽  
Low Frequency ◽  
Peak Frequency ◽  
Two Dimensional ◽  
Equation Solution ◽  
Nonlinear Energy Transfer ◽  
The Difference ◽  
Nonlinear Energy

Abstract. The kinetic equation for a gravity wave spectrum is solved numerically to study the high frequencies asymptotes for the one-dimensional nonlinear energy transfer and the variability of spectrum parameters that accompany the long-term evolution of nonlinear waves. The cases of initial two-dimensional spectra S(ω,θ) of modified JONSWAP type with the frequency decay-law S(ω) ~ ω−n (for n = 6, 5, 4 and 3.5) and various initial functions of the angular distribution are considered. It is shown that at the first step of the kinetic equation solution, the nonlinear energy transfer asymptote has the power-like decay-law, Nl(ω) ~ ω−p, with values p ≤ n − 1, valid in cases when n ≥ 5, and the difference, n-p, changes significantly when n approaches 4. On time scales of evolution greater than several thousands of initial wave periods, in every case, a self-similar spectrum Ssf(ω,θ) is established with the frequency decay-law of form S(ω) ~ ω−4. Herein, the asymptote of nonlinear energy transfer becomes negative in value and decreases according to the same law (i.e., Nl(ω) ~ −ω−4). The peak frequency of the spectrum, ωp(t), migrates in time t to the low-frequency region such that the angular and frequency characteristics of the two-dimensional spectrum Ssf(ω,θ) remain constant. However, these characteristics depend on the degree of angular anisotropy of the initial spectrum. The solutions obtained are interpreted, and their connection with the analytical solutions of the kinetic equation by Zakharov and co-authors for gravity waves in water is discussed.

scholarly journals Directionality and spread of shallow water waves along the eastern Arabian Sea

2013 ◽  
Vol 31 (10) ◽  
pp. 1817-1827 ◽  
Author(s):  
V. Sanil Kumar ◽  
T. R. Anoop
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Arabian Sea ◽  
Wave Spectrum ◽  
Peak Frequency ◽  
Wave Direction ◽  
Shallow Water Waves ◽  
Average Value ◽  
Eastern Arabian Sea ◽  
The Difference

Abstract. The directional characteristics of shallow water waves are described based on measured data during 2011 at two locations spaced at 350 km along the eastern Arabian Sea. Study shows that, for high swells (significant wave height > 1 m) approaching almost parallel to the coast, the difference between mean and principal wave direction at spectral peak is negligible. The directional spreading of wind-sea-dominated wave spectrum is less than that of the swell-dominated spectrum. Average value of the ratio of the directional width at twice the peak frequency and that at the peak frequency is 1.9 indicating that the directional width increased at higher frequency. Even though both locations studied are along the eastern Arabian Sea, there are more northwest waves due to shamal events and local winds found at the northern location (27%) than at the southern location (7%).

The growth of duration-limited wind waves

1978 ◽  
Vol 85 (4) ◽  
pp. 705-730 ◽  
Author(s):  
Hisashi Mitsuyasu ◽  
Kunio Rikiishi
Keyword(s):  
Growth Rate ◽  
Exponential Growth ◽  
Empirical Formula ◽  
Wind Wave ◽  
Wind Waves ◽  
Wave Spectrum ◽  
Peak Frequency ◽  
Spectral Peak ◽  
Spectral Energy ◽  
Wave Spectra

Laboratory measurements have been made of the one-dimensional spectra of the duration-limited wind waves which are generated when a wind abruptly begins to blow over a water surface, maintaining a constant speed during the succeeding period of time. The duration dependences of the wave energy E and the spectral peak frequency fm determined from the measured spectra are slightly different from those inferred from the fetch dependences of these quantities. The normalized spectra of the duration-limited wind waves are also slightly different from those of fetch-limited wind waves: the concentration of the normalized spectral energy near the spectral peak frequency is smaller, in many cases, for the duration-limited wind waves than for fetch-limited wind waves. The exponential growth rates β of the duration-limited wind-wave spectra are generally larger than those of fetch-limited wind-wave spectra. Furthermore, both for the duration-limited wind waves and for fetch-limited wind waves the exponential growth rate has a behaviour which is different from the empirical formula of Snyder & Cox (1966). A new empirical formula for the growth rate of the wave spectrum is proposed, from which the empirical formula of Snyder & Cox (1966) can be derived as a special case. Agreement between the new empirical formula and the experimental results is satisfactory for fetch-limited wave spectra, but is confined to the qualitative features for the duration-limited wave spectra.

An improved method to estimate Q based on the logarithmic spectrum of moving peak points

2019 ◽  
Vol 7 (2) ◽  
pp. T255-T263 ◽  
Author(s):  
Yanli Liu ◽  
Zhenchun Li ◽  
Guoquan Yang ◽  
Qiang Liu
Keyword(s):  
Seismic Waves ◽  
Wave Attenuation ◽  
Real Data ◽  
Peak Frequency ◽  
Seismic Reflection Data ◽  
The Real ◽  
Time Frequency ◽  
Reflection Data ◽  
Text Filtering ◽  
The Impact

The quality factor ([Formula: see text]) is an important parameter for measuring the attenuation of seismic waves. Reliable [Formula: see text] estimation and stable inverse [Formula: see text] filtering are expected to improve the resolution of seismic data and deep-layer energy. Many methods of estimating [Formula: see text] are based on an individual wavelet. However, it is difficult to extract the individual wavelet precisely from seismic reflection data. To avoid this problem, we have developed a method of directly estimating [Formula: see text] from reflection data. The core of the methodology is selecting the peak-frequency points to linear fit their logarithmic spectrum and time-frequency product. Then, we calculated [Formula: see text] according to the relationship between [Formula: see text] and the optimized slope. First, to get the peak frequency points at different times, we use the generalized S transform to produce the 2D high-precision time-frequency spectrum. According to the seismic wave attenuation mechanism, the logarithmic spectrum attenuates linearly with the product of frequency and time. Thus, the second step of the method is transforming a 2D spectrum into 1D by variable substitution. In the process of transformation, we only selected the peak frequency points to participate in the fitting process, which can reduce the impact of the interference on the spectrum. Third, we obtain the optimized slope by least-squares fitting. To demonstrate the reliability of our method, we applied it to a constant [Formula: see text] model and the real data of a work area. For the real data, we calculated the [Formula: see text] curve of the seismic trace near a well and we get the high-resolution section by using stable inverse [Formula: see text] filtering. The model and real data indicate that our method is effective and reliable for estimating the [Formula: see text] value.

Estimates of Surface Waves Using Subsurface EM-APEX Floats under Typhoon Fanapi 2010

2018 ◽  
Vol 35 (5) ◽  
pp. 1053-1075 ◽  
Author(s):  
Je-Yuan Hsu ◽  
Ren-Chieh Lien ◽  
Eric A. D’Asaro ◽  
Thomas B. Sanford
Keyword(s):  
Surface Wave ◽  
Surface Waves ◽  
Wave Spectrum ◽  
Nonlinear Least Squares ◽  
Peak Frequency ◽  
Wave Propagation Direction ◽  
Model Studies ◽  
Surface Wave Propagation ◽  
Left Quadrant ◽  
Field Inclination

AbstractSeven subsurface Electromagnetic Autonomous Profiling Explorer (EM-APEX) floats measured the voltage induced by the motional induction of seawater under Typhoon Fanapi in 2010. Measurements were processed to estimate high-frequency oceanic velocity variance associated with surface waves. Surface wave peak frequency fp and significant wave height Hs are estimated by a nonlinear least squares fitting to , assuming a broadband JONSWAP surface wave spectrum. The Hs is further corrected for the effects of float rotation, Earth’s geomagnetic field inclination, and surface wave propagation direction. The fp is 0.08–0.10 Hz, with the maximum fp of 0.10 Hz in the rear-left quadrant of Fanapi, which is ~0.02 Hz higher than in the rear-right quadrant. The Hs is 6–12 m, with the maximum in the rear sector of Fanapi. Comparing the estimated fp and Hs with those assuming a single dominant surface wave yields differences of more than 0.02 Hz and 4 m, respectively. The surface waves under Fanapi simulated in the WAVEWATCH III (ww3) model are used to assess and compare to float estimates. Differences in the surface wave spectra of JONSWAP and ww3 yield uncertainties of <5% outside Fanapi’s eyewall and >10% within the eyewall. The estimated fp is 10% less than the simulated before the passage of Fanapi’s eye and 20% less after eye passage. Most differences between Hs and simulated are <2 m except those in the rear-left quadrant of Fanapi, which are ~5 m. Surface wave estimates are important for guiding future model studies of tropical cyclone wave–ocean interactions.

The Effect of Pitch Gyradius on Added Resistance of Yacht Hulls

1991 ◽  
Author(s):  
James F. Moran
Keyword(s):  
Water Resistance ◽  
Wave Spectrum ◽  
Response Amplitude ◽  
Added Resistance ◽  
Regular Waves ◽  
Low Frequencies ◽  
Irregular Wave ◽  
Wave Data ◽  
The Difference ◽  
Response Amplitude Operators

The purpose of this investigation was to determine the effect of pitch gyradius on added resistance of yacht hulls. Tank testing of a model yacht in head seas was performed in the Webb Robinson Model Basin. The model was tested in regular waves at two speeds and five variations of gyradius. The model was also evaluated in irregular seas of the Pierson-Moskowitz spectrum at various speeds with two gyradii. Response Amplitude Operators were developed from the regular wave data and comparisons made. The irregular wave data were analyzed for the effect of speed on the difference in added resistance between the maximum and minimum gyradius settings. Several conclusions were arrived at after analyzing the data. The Response Amplitude Operaters shift as the gyradius changes. In regular waves, at low frequencies of encounter, a lower, gyradius resulted in less added frequencies of encounter in regular waves, this trend reverses itself and the higher gyradii result in reduced added resistance. However, at higher frequencies of encounter in regular waves, this trend reverses, reverses itself in reduced added resistance. The peaks of the RAO curves shift to higher frequencies at higher gyradii. It was also concluded that at the higher speed, Froude Number of 0.3, the added resistance was lower relative to the still-water resistance for each gyradius tested. The irregular wave testing revealed the effect of the lower frequencies dominating the irregular wave spectrum. The minimum gyradius, in irregular seas showed less added resistance than the maximum gyradius. In addition, the irregular wave testing verified, the reduction of added resistance, relative to still-water resistance, at increasing speeds for both the minimum and maximum gyradii.

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