scholarly journals Geologic and Oceanographic Data Determining the "Old Foreshore Zone", of the Heraklion Coastal Area, Crete Island

2013 ◽  
Vol 6 (2) ◽  
pp. 157-166
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Coastal Area ◽  
Field Measurements ◽  
Wave Prediction ◽  
Wave Measurements ◽  
Sea Bottom ◽  
Crete Island ◽  
Wind Measurements ◽  
Run Up ◽  
Sea Wave

Geologic, oceanographic and topographic data and field measurements, of the coastal area in front of Heraklion City, Crete Island, as well as deep sea wave measurements and shallow wave prediction numerical modelling were used for the determination of the 1884 foreshore. Data from numerous drills performed in the coastal area of Heraklion City used for the stratigraphic study of the area. For the calculation of the shallow area wave height, the deep area wave height and wind measurements in the of Cretan Sea were used, as input data of the shallow wave prediction model, taking into account the archive data about the sea bottom bathymetry and the topography of Heraklion area. Then, the maximum wave run up on the coastal area in 1884, which determines the limit of the old foreshore zone was calculated, and the critical requirements of the Act 2971/2001 and the Compulsory Law 2344/1940 "the bigger however unexceptional sea wave run up" were estimated. Finally the innermost limit of the foreshore zone during 1884 was defined, as the 3.5 m level.

scholarly journals Kajian Energi Gelombang Laut Di Daerah Abrasi Serangai, Bengkulu Utara Melalui Pengamatan Tinggi Gelombang Laut

2021 ◽  
Vol 11 (2) ◽  
pp. 143
Author(s):  
Ashar Muda Lubis ◽  
Yosi Apriani Putri ◽  
Rio Saputra ◽  
Juhendi Sinaga ◽  
M Hasanudin ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Wave Energy ◽  
Seasonal Variations ◽  
Coastal Area ◽  
Significant Wave Height ◽  
Ocean Waves ◽  
Wave Period ◽  
Maximum Wave Height ◽  
Significant Wave ◽  
Sea Wave

<p class="AbstractText"><span lang="EN-AU">The Serangai area, Batik Nau District, North Bengkulu has the highest average abrasion speed of 20 m/year. The abrasion could cause the coastal area to erode the coastline till several tens of meters. The purpose of this study was to determine the height of the ocean waves and to determine the energy of the ocean waves that has the potential to accelerate the abrasion process in the Serangai area. The research was carried out on November 5-7, 2018 in the Serangai beach area at a depth of 5 m using SBE 26 Plus Seagauge Wave equipment. The results showed that the observed wave height was between 0.8-1.6 m with a significant wave height (Hs) of 1.38 m. In addition, the wave period ranges from 5-11 s with a significant wave period (Ts) of 8.2 s. The result also shows that the maximum wave height of 1.6 m occurred on November 7, 2018 with maximum wave energy of 1800 J/m<sup>2</sup>. This result can perhaps accelerate the abrasion process in the Serangai area. It can also be seen that the wave height in the Serangai region is higher than in several other areas in Indonesia. However, it is necessary to continue observing the wave height to see the seasonal variations in sea wave height in Serangai area.</span></p>

The seismic sea wave of 22 May 1960 along the Chilean coast

1963 ◽  
Vol 53 (6) ◽  
pp. 1125-1190
Author(s):  
Hellmuth A. Sievers C. ◽  
Guillermo Villegas C. ◽  
Guillermo Barros
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Water Depth ◽  
Time Of Arrival ◽  
Affected Area ◽  
Tidal Waves ◽  
Chilean Coast ◽  
Run Up ◽  
The Times ◽  
Almost All ◽  
Sea Wave

Abstract This paper details the efforts of the Chilean Navy in warning of the tidal waves that followed the earthquakes of May 1960 and the efforts made to collect information concerning the tsunami. Details of time of arrival, damages, wave height and run up are presented for almost all ports in the affected area beginning at Puerto Aysen and working northward. Changes in water depth, caused by erosion, deposition, and changes in land elevation are reported. The fates of several ships caught in the great waves are described in detail. Marigrams of the tsunami are given for all available Chilean ports. The times of high and low tides in the Gulf of Chiloé changed following the earthquakes.

scholarly journals Wave height and period on 16 March, 21 April, and 22 September 2019, in the Ujung Batee coastal waters and Lampanah coastal waters, Aceh Besar District, Indonesia

2021 ◽  
Vol 869 (1) ◽  
pp. 012040
Author(s):  
I Setiawan ◽  
S M Yuni ◽  
M Ulfah ◽  
S Purnawan ◽  
H A Haridhi ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Coastal Waters ◽  
Measurement Data ◽  
Research Station ◽  
Wave Data ◽  
Wave Measurements ◽  
Wave Measurement ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
Station Location ◽  
Sea Wave

Abstract Waves are one of the sea parameters that affect the rate of retreat of the coastline. This research investigation was carried out in the coastal waters of Ujong Batee and Lampanah, Aceh Besar District on 16 March, 21 April, and 22 September 2019, with the aim of examining wave parameters, namely wave height and period. Then the wave measurement data sampled at the research station location was carried out by purposive random sampling method. Sea wave data were taken using a scale board that has been labeled with numbers and a stopwatch. Wave measurements were carried out approximately 1000 times. Then the sea wave data is processed to obtain the wave height and period and then analyzed. The results obtained that the wave heights on 16 March, 21 April, and 22 September 2019 were 67 cm, 83 cm, and 80 cm in Ujong Batee and 55 cm, 67 cm, and 66 cm in Lampanah. While the wave period is 12 seconds on March 16, April 21, and September 22 in Ujong Batee and Lampanah. Thus, the wave height and period at both locations ranged from 50 cm to 80 cm and 12 s.

scholarly journals Combining probability distributions of sea level variations and wave run-up to evaluate coastal flooding risks

2018 ◽  
Author(s):  
Ulpu Leijala ◽  
Jan-Victor Björkqvist ◽  
Milla M. Johansson ◽  
Havu Pellikka ◽  
Lauri Laakso ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Sea Level ◽  
Probability Distributions ◽  
Field Measurements ◽  
Joint Effect ◽  
Mean Sea Level ◽  
Safety Margins ◽  
Acceptable Risks ◽  
Flooding Hazards ◽  
Sea Level Variations ◽  
Run Up

Abstract. Tools for estimating probabilities of flooding hazards caused by the simultaneous effect of sea level and waves are needed for the secure planning of densely populated coastal areas that are strongly vulnerable to climate change. In this paper we present a method for combining location-specific probability distributions of three different components: (1) long-term mean sea level change, (2) short-term sea level variations, and (3) wind-generated waves. We apply the method in two locations in the Helsinki Archipelago to obtain run-up level estimates representing the joint effect of the still water level and the wave run-up. These estimates for the present, 2050 and 2100 are based on field measurements and mean sea level scenarios. In the case of our study locations, the significant locational variability of the wave conditions leads to a difference in the safe building levels of up to one meter. The rising mean sea level in the Gulf of Finland and the uncertainty related to the associated scenarios contribute significantly to the run-up levels for the year 2100. We also present a sensitivity test of the method and discuss its applicability to other coastal regions. Our approach allows for the determining of different building levels based on the acceptable risks for various infrastructure, thus reducing building costs while maintaining necessary safety margins.

scholarly journals VOLCANIC ERUPTION-INDUCED TSUNAMI AT ANAK KRAKATAU VOLCANO, SUNDA STRAIT, INDONESIA

2020 ◽  
pp. 33
Author(s):  
Kaori Nagai ◽  
Taro Arikawa ◽  
Kwanchai Pakoksung ◽  
Fumihiko Imamura ◽  
Masashi Watanabe ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Coastal Area ◽  
Volcanic Eruption ◽  
Run Up ◽  
Krakatau Volcano

On 22 December 2018, a volcanic eruption occurred at Anak Krakatau, Sunda Strait, Indonesia, which induced a tsunami. At the coastal area in the Sunda Strait, the destructive tsunami destroyed many structures and killed more than 400 people approximately 30 to 40 min after the eruption. In this event, it has been reported that many residents start to evacuate after seeing tsunami because alert of tsunami was not occurred. It is difficult to escape from a tsunami after seeing it waves, so early evacuation become important. Previously, many studies which handle Krakatau volcanic eruption induced tsunamis have been conducted. Pakoksung et al. (2019) conducted its simulation, but it was reported that the observed run-up heights and inundation depths were underestimated. Moreover, there were few studies which handle evacuation from non- seismic tsunami. The purpose of the study is to reveal the actual evacuation action from the tsunami induced by the 2018 volcanic eruption.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/ELOif7G4eNo

scholarly journals THE EXTENT OF AGRICULTURAL LAND DAMAGE IN VARIOUS TSUNAMI WAVE HEIGHT SCENARIOS: DISASTER MANAGEMENT AND MITIGATION

2018 ◽  
Vol XLII-3/W4 ◽  
pp. 51-57 ◽  
Author(s):  
S. Antoni ◽  
R. A. Bantan ◽  
H. M. Taki ◽  
W. Anurogo ◽  
M. Z. Lubis ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Vegetation Index ◽  
Agricultural Land ◽  
Numerical Data ◽  
Earthquake Hazard ◽  
Case Scenario ◽  
Worst Case ◽  
Large Power ◽  
Aster Image ◽  
Run Up

<p><strong>Abstract.</strong> The southern coastal areas of Java are highly vulnerable areas of earthquake hazard because they located 200&amp;thinsp;km from the southern Java subduction zone. This zone is an active seismicity area, resulting in many tectonic earthquakes caused by collisions and shift between the plates. This shift when it occurs under the sea surface with a large power intensity can lead to a tsunami. This research conducted to identify the extent of agricultural land (AL) damaged by the tsunami for disaster risk management and mitigation. Numerical modelling was performed to determine the run-up height of the tsunami through numerical data. This model was designed using the worst-case scenario. The tsunami inundation model analysed from the coming wave (run-up) with a height of 30&amp;thinsp;m. This model used scenarios of tsunami run-up height in a coastline, coarse coefficient and slope. The data extracted using remote sensing (RS) data was the slope obtained from the ASTER image GDEM data, the agricultural land productivity data obtained using NDVI vegetation index transformation and field data on productivity, and tsunami hazard analysis with various altitude scenarios using run-up model impact on existing AL conditions. The elevation-data was obtained from the 15&amp;thinsp;m ASTER image data (GDEM) that was reclassified into a slope class map. The risk of destruction of AL based on wave height extracted by using RS data generated rice risk loss index of AL of 190.5071&amp;thinsp;tons for a height of 1&amp;thinsp;m, 1851.522&amp;thinsp;tons for a height of 5&amp;thinsp;m, 7402.71&amp;thinsp;tons for a height of 10&amp;thinsp;m, 10776.47&amp;thinsp;tons to a height of 15&amp;thinsp;m, 11823.9&amp;thinsp;tons for height 20&amp;thinsp;m, and 11824.27&amp;thinsp;tons to a height of 30&amp;thinsp;m.</p>

Filters for linear sea-wave prediction

2006 ◽  
Vol 33 (17-18) ◽  
pp. 2332-2351 ◽  
Author(s):  
M.R. Belmont ◽  
J.M.K. Horwood ◽  
R.W.F. Thurley ◽  
J. Baker
Keyword(s):  
Wave Prediction ◽  
Sea Wave

Wave Measurements at Eastern Green Canyon During Hurricane Ike

2009 ◽  
Author(s):  
Oriol Rijken ◽  
Adam Bangs
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Wave Energy ◽  
Repetitive Sequences ◽  
Wave Crest ◽  
Hurricane Ike ◽  
Wave Trough ◽  
Wave Measurements ◽  
Wave Event ◽  
Measurement Location ◽  
Insight Into

Wave measurements were obtained at an Eastern Green Canyon location during hurricane Ike in September 2009. The eye of the hurricane passed approximately 68 nautical miles to the South West of the measurement location. The significant wave height was above 30 ft for about 20 hours and above 40 ft for about 5.5 hours. The wave time series provide an insight into the wave field as the storm approaches and leaves the location. One of the interesting features observed was that there were repetitive sequences, where each sequence consisted of a period of increased wave energy followed by periods of reduced wave energy. Each sequence lasted approximately one hour. Measured wave crest, wave trough and wave height distributions are discussed. One unique wave event was observed. This event was characterized by a predictably-sized crest followed by a very deep trough.

Statistical Analysis of a Set of Basin Waves

2011 ◽  
Author(s):  
Jule Scharnke ◽  
Janou Hennig
Keyword(s):  
Statistical Analysis ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Water Depth ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Rayleigh Distribution ◽  
Second Order ◽  
Distribution Functions ◽  
Wave Crest ◽  
Intermediate Water ◽  
Wave Measurements

In a recent paper the effect of variations in calibrated wave parameters on wave crest and height distributions was analyzed (OMAE2010-20304, [1]). Theoretical distribution functions were compared to wave measurements with a variation in water depth, wave seed (group spectrum) and location of measurement for the same initial power spectrum. The wave crest distribution of the shallow water waves exceeded both second-order and Rayleigh distribution. Whereas, in intermediate water depth the measured crests followed the second order distribution. The distributions of the measured waves showed that different wave seeds result in the same wave height and crest distributions. Measured wave heights were lower closer to the wave maker. In this paper the results of the continued statistical analysis of basin waves are presented with focus on wave steepness and their influence on wave height and wave crest distributions. Furthermore, the sampling variability of the presented cases is assessed.

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