scholarly journals RELATIONSHIPS BETWEEN SHORELINE CHANGE RATE, WAVE ENERGY FLUX AND LONGSHORE CURRENT VELOCITY IN LONG-TERM SHORELINE CHANGE

2008 ◽  
Vol 64 (4) ◽  
pp. 280-290
Author(s):  
Takayuki SUZUKI ◽  
Yoshiaki KURIYAMA
Keyword(s):  
Energy Flux ◽  
Wave Energy ◽  
Current Velocity ◽  
Shoreline Change ◽  
Longshore Current ◽  
Change Rate ◽  
Shoreline Change Rate ◽  
Wave Energy Flux

scholarly journals FIELD OBSERVATIONS OF SHORELINE CHANGE BY FREQUENCY-BANDED WAVE ENERGY FLUX AND FORESHORE SHAPE

2012 ◽  
Vol 1 (33) ◽  
pp. 10 ◽  
Author(s):  
Takayuki Suzuki ◽  
Yoshiaki Kuriyama
Keyword(s):  
Wave Energy ◽  
Shoreline Change ◽  
Movement Speed ◽  
Shoreline Erosion ◽  
Field Observations ◽  
Energy Fluxes ◽  
Data Set ◽  
Change Rate ◽  
Shoreline Position ◽  
Wave Energy Flux

In this paper, correlations between shoreline change rates and six frequency-sectioned wave energy fluxes were discussed using a 5-year data set of beach profiles and offshore waves observed at the Hasaki coast. Also, an effect of foreshore beach shape on shoreline backward movement speed was discussed. From the results, it is possible to separate shoreline erosion events from shoreline advance events and shoreline stand still events by using frequency-sectioned wave energy fluxes. Furthermore, the results revealed that the shoreline position and foreshore shape affect shoreline backward movement speed. This indicates that for the estimation of the shoreline change rate, we need to consider not only wave energy but also shoreline position and foreshore shape.

scholarly journals LABORATORY TESTS OF LONGSHORE TRANSPORT

1970 ◽  
Vol 1 (12) ◽  
pp. 55 ◽  
Author(s):  
John C. Fairchild
Keyword(s):  
Energy Flux ◽  
Wave Energy ◽  
Current Transport ◽  
Longshore Current ◽  
Constant Depth ◽  
Flux Transport ◽  
Longshore Transport ◽  
Median Diameter ◽  
Wave Energy Flux ◽  
Made In

Tests were made in CERC's Shore Processes Test Basin witlt wayes approaching the toe of a test beach at a 30-degree angle Beach material was quartz sand with median diameter of 0 22 millimeter which, in most tests, was molded to a 1 on 10 slope before starting a test Long crested waves generated in a constant depth of 2 33 feet traveled over the beach, shoaled and were refracted before breaking near the shoreline The breaking action caused the sand to be transported along the shore in the direction of the longshore component of the wave energy flux Transport rates of 2 to 170 cubic yards per day were measured, with the lower rate within the range of laboratory rates reported by Savage^and the higher rate comparable to field rates reported by Watts^for South Lake Worth Inlet, Florida Analysis includes correlation of the measured rates to the longshore wave energy flux, and in some tests, to the longshore current Transport rates, defined by visual fit curve of the data, are about 3 times the rates indicated by the CERC TR-4 design curve for a longshore energy range of 0 016 to 0 760 millions of foot pounds per foot of shore per day.

scholarly journals PROSES AKRASI DAN ABRASI BERDASARKAN PEMETAAN KARAKTERISTIK PANTAI DAN DATA GELOMBANG DI TELUK PELABUHAN RATU DAN CILETUH, KABUPATEN SUKABUMI, JAWA BARAT

2016 ◽  
Vol 13 (1) ◽  
Author(s):  
Deny Setiady ◽  
Lili Sarmili
Keyword(s):  
Energy Flux ◽  
Wave Energy ◽  
Coastal Sediments ◽  
Longshore Current ◽  
West Java ◽  
Wave Energy Flux ◽  
Flux Energy

Lokasi Penelitian dilakukan di teluk Pelabuhan Ratu dan Teluk Ciletuh, Kabupaten Sukabumi, Provinsi Jawa Barat. Tujuan penelitian adalah untuk mengetahui karakteristik pantai dan hubungannya dengan akrasi dan abrasi berdasarkan energi flux. Metode penelitian terdiri dari penentuan posisi, karakteristik pantai, pengambilan sampel sedimen pantai, dan analisis gelombang. Proses abrasi dan akrasi di daerah penelitian erat kaitannya dengan besar kecilnya energi gelombang. Energi gelombang merupakan salah satu komponen dari arus sejajar pantai. Berdasarkan karakteristik pantai, tipe pantai terdiri dari : (1) Daerah perbukitan terjal, (2) Daerah perbukitan bergelombang, dan (3) Daerah dataran rendah. Analisis energi flux gelombang menunjukkan bahwa proses abrasi terjadi dititik tinjau 2 ke 3, 4 ke 5, 6 ke 8, 10 ke 11, 14 ke 15, dan 16 ke 17, sedangkan proses akrasi terjadi di titik tinjau 3 ke 4, 5 ke 6, 8 ke 10, 11 ke 13, 15 ke 16, 17 ke 18, dan 20 ke 21.Kata Kunci: Akrasi, abrasi, karakteristik pantai, energi flux, Pantai Pelabuhan Ratu. Location of the study at Pelabuhan Ratu and Ciletuh bays, Sukabumi of West Java Province. The aim of study is to map the coastal charectristics in relation to accretion and abrasion processes based on wave energy flux. The method consists of navigation, coastal characteristics, coastal sediments samples and wave analyses. The abrasion and accresion processes are closely related to how big the wave energy. Wave energy is one of longshore current components. Based on the coastal characteristics, the coastal types can be divided into : (1) steep hills (2) undulating hills, and (3) lowland. Wave energy flux shows that abrasion processes occur from the point of 2 to 3, 4 to 5, 6 to 8, 10 to 11, 14 to 15, and 16 to 17, while for accretion processes occur from the point of 3 to 4, 5 to 6, 8 to 10, 11 to 13, 15 to 16, 17 to 18, and 20 to 21. Keywords: acrasion, abrasion, coastal characteristic, flux energy, Pelabuhan Ratu coast

scholarly journals Temporal Variation of the Wave Energy Flux in Hotspot Areas of the Black Sea

2019 ◽  
Vol 11 (3) ◽  
pp. 562 ◽  
Author(s):  
Adem Akpınar ◽  
Halid Jafali ◽  
Eugen Rusu
Keyword(s):  
Temporal Variation ◽  
Black Sea ◽  
Energy Flux ◽  
Wave Energy ◽  
Temporal Variations ◽  
The Black Sea ◽  
Wave Power ◽  
Increasing Trend ◽  
Wave Energy Flux

This paper aims to examine the temporal variation of wave energy flux in the hotspot areas of the Black Sea. For this purpose, a 31-year long-term wave dataset produced by using a three-layered nested modelling system was used. Temporal variations of wave energy were determined at hourly, monthly, seasonal, and yearly basis at seventeen stations. Based on the results obtained, it can be concluded that the stations have very low fluctuations in mean wave power during the day. Mean wave power in the summer months shows a low difference between the stations, but in the winter months, there is a higher difference in wave power between the stations. This difference is more at the stations in the southwestern part of the Black Sea and much lower in the eastern Black Sea stations around Sinop, being in the middle of the southern coast of the Black Sea. In addition, it is concluded that mean wave energy flux presents a decreasing trend at all stations, but maximum wave power offers an increasing trend at most of the stations.

scholarly journals Joint Modelling of Wave Energy Flux and Wave Direction

Processes ◽  
2021 ◽  
Vol 9 (3) ◽  
pp. 460
Author(s):  
Takvor H. Soukissian ◽  
Flora E. Karathanasi
Keyword(s):  
Energy Flux ◽  
Wave Energy ◽  
Goodness Of Fit ◽  
North Atlantic Ocean ◽  
Wave Climate ◽  
Western Mediterranean ◽  
Wave Direction ◽  
Bivariate Model ◽  
The North ◽  
Wave Energy Flux

In the context of wave resource assessment, the description of wave climate is usually confined to significant wave height and energy period. However, the accurate joint description of both linear and directional wave energy characteristics is essential for the proper and detailed optimization of wave energy converters. In this work, the joint probabilistic description of wave energy flux and wave direction is performed and evaluated. Parametric univariate models are implemented for the description of wave energy flux and wave direction. For wave energy flux, conventional, and mixture distributions are examined while for wave direction proven and efficient finite mixtures of von Mises distributions are used. The bivariate modelling is based on the implementation of the Johnson–Wehrly model. The examined models are applied on long-term measured wave data at three offshore locations in Greece and hindcast numerical wave model data at three locations in the western Mediterranean, the North Sea, and the North Atlantic Ocean. A global criterion that combines five individual goodness-of-fit criteria into a single expression is used to evaluate the performance of bivariate models. From the optimum bivariate model, the expected wave energy flux as function of wave direction and the distribution of wave energy flux for the mean and most probable wave directions are also obtained.

Horizontal energy flux of wind-driven intraseasonal waves in the tropical Atlantic by a unified diagnosis

2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
Qingyang Song ◽  
Hidenori Aiki
Keyword(s):  
Energy Flux ◽  
Wave Energy ◽  
Horizontal Distribution ◽  
Kelvin Waves ◽  
Asymmetric Distribution ◽  
Central Basin ◽  
Tropical Atlantic ◽  
Equatorial Wave ◽  
Wave Energy Flux ◽  
Velocity Anomalies

AbstractIntraseasonal waves in the tropical Atlantic Ocean have been found to carry prominent energy that affects interannual variability of zonal currents. This study investigates energy transfer and interaction of wind-driven intraseasonal waves using single-layer model experiments. Three sets of wind stress forcing at intraseasonal periods of around 30 days, 50 days and 80 days with a realistic horizontal distribution are employed separately to excite the second baroclinic mode in the tropical Atlantic. A unified scheme for calculating the energy flux, previously approximated and used for the diagnosis of annual Kelvin and Rossby waves, is utilized in the present study in its original form for intraseasonal waves. Zonal velocity anomalies by Kelvin waves dominate the 80-day scenario. Meridional velocity anomalies by Yanai waves dominate the 30-day scenario. In the 50-day scenario, the two waves have comparable magnitudes. The horizontal distribution of wave energy flux is revealed. In the 30-day and 50-day scenarios, a zonally alternating distribution of cross-equatorial wave energy flux is found. By checking an analytical solution excluding Kelvin waves, we confirm that the cross-equatorial flux is caused by the meridional transport of geopotential at the equator. This is attributed to the combination of Kelvin and Yanai waves and leads to the asymmetric distribution of wave energy in the central basin. Coastally-trapped Kelvin waves along the African coast are identified by along-shore energy flux. In the north, the bend of the Guinea coast leads the flux back to the equatorial basin. In the south, the Kelvin waves strengthened by local wind transfer the energy from the equatorial to Angolan regions.

Sign in / Sign up

Export Citation Format

Share Document