Onshore Sandbar Migration

2002 ◽  
Author(s):  
Steve Elgar
Keyword(s):  
Sandbar Migration

scholarly journals Numerical modeling of the undertow structure and sandbar migration in the surfzone

2017 ◽  
Vol 31 (5) ◽  
pp. 549-558
Author(s):  
Ming-xiao Xie ◽  
Chi Zhang ◽  
Zhi-wen Yang ◽  
Shan Li ◽  
Xin Li ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Numerical Modeling ◽  
Sandbar Migration

NEARSHORE SANDBAR MIGRATION

2007 ◽  
Author(s):  
Gonzalo Simarro ◽  
Alejandro Orfila ◽  
Phillip L.-F. Liu
Keyword(s):  
Sandbar Migration

A New Approach to Model Numerically the Nonlinear Wave Propagation

2015 ◽  
Vol 12 (05) ◽  
pp. 1550031 ◽  
Author(s):  
Khouane Meftah
Keyword(s):  
Moving Boundary ◽  
Vertical Direction ◽  
Physical Nature ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Free Surface Flows ◽  
Nonlinear Wave Propagation ◽  
New Approach ◽  
Nonhydrostatic Pressure ◽  
Sediment Transport Equation ◽  
Sandbar Migration

In order to model nonlinear breaking waves with moving boundary and coastal sandbar migration; we presented a morphodynamic model, where hydrodynamic equations (free surface flows) and sediment transport equation are solved in a coupled manner. The originality lies in the development of an innovative approach, in which, we project the horizontal velocity onto a basis functions depending only on the variable z and we calculate analytically the vertical velocity and the nonhydrostatic pressure. The choice of basis depends on the problem under consideration. This model is numerically stable because there is no mesh in the vertical direction. This model is accurate because we can directly introduce functions that best fits the physical nature of the flow. Our model is validated through laboratory measurements carried out by Dingemans [1994, J. Comput. Phys. 231, 328–344], Cox and Kobayashi [2000, J. Geophys. Res. 105(c6), 223–236. and Dette et al. [2002, Coast. Eng. 47, 137–177].

scholarly journals Wave-induced sediment transport and onshore sandbar migration

2006 ◽  
Vol 53 (10) ◽  
pp. 817-824 ◽  
Author(s):  
Tian-Jian Hsu ◽  
Steve Elgar ◽  
R.T. Guza
Keyword(s):  
Sediment Transport ◽  
Wave Induced ◽  
Sandbar Migration

scholarly journals The morphodynamic responses of artificial embayed beaches to storm events

2010 ◽  
Vol 26 ◽  
pp. 99-103 ◽  
Author(s):  
E. Ojeda ◽  
J. Guillén ◽  
F. Ribas
Keyword(s):  
Morphological Changes ◽  
Video Monitoring ◽  
Relevant Parameter ◽  
Storm Events ◽  
Shoreline Position ◽  
Monitoring Techniques ◽  
Configuration Change ◽  
Differential Adaptation ◽  
Submerged Bar ◽  
Sandbar Migration

Abstract. The morphological changes caused by storm events in two Barcelona beaches were recorded using video monitoring techniques during the period 2001–2006. Changes in shoreline position and configuration and submerged bar position and shape were analyzed during the 25 major storm events that occurred during the study period. Beach responses to storms were grouped into three categories: shoreline advance or retreat (including rotation), sandbar migration and/or configuration change (linear or crescentic shape) and formation of megacusps. This work provides examples of the differential adaptation of both beaches to the same storm and of some unexpected morphological responses of both beaches. The response of the beach to storm events is not straightforward because wave conditions are not the only relevant parameter to be considered. In particular, in such embayed beaches it is crucial to take into account their specific morphodynamic configuration prior to the storm.

scholarly journals Onshore sandbar migration in the surf zone: New insights into the wave-induced sediment transport mechanisms

2015 ◽  
Vol 42 (8) ◽  
pp. 2869-2877 ◽  
Author(s):  
A. Fernández-Mora ◽  
D. Calvete ◽  
A. Falqués ◽  
H. E. de Swart
Keyword(s):  
Sediment Transport ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Transport Mechanisms ◽  
Wave Induced ◽  
Sandbar Migration

scholarly journals Multivariate analysis of nonlinearity in sandbar behavior

2008 ◽  
Vol 15 (1) ◽  
pp. 145-158 ◽  
Author(s):  
L. Pape ◽  
B. G. Ruessink
Keyword(s):  
Time Series ◽  
Time Series Data ◽  
Nonlinear Models ◽  
Multivariate Time Series ◽  
Series Data ◽  
Small Scale ◽  
Synthetic Datasets ◽  
Long Term Prediction ◽  
Sandbar Migration

Abstract. Alongshore sandbars are often present in the nearshore zones of storm-dominated micro- to mesotidal coasts. Sandbar migration is the result of a large number of small-scale physical processes that are generated by the incoming waves and the interaction between the wave-generated processes and the morphology. The presence of nonlinearity in a sandbar system is an important factor determining its predictability. However, not all nonlinearities in the underlying system are equally expressed in the time-series of sandbar observations. Detecting the presence of nonlinearity in sandbar data is complicated by the dependence of sandbar migration on the external wave forcings. Here, a method for detecting nonlinearity in multivariate time-series data is introduced that can reveal the nonlinear nature of the dependencies between system state and forcing variables. First, this method is applied to four synthetic datasets to demonstrate its ability to qualify nonlinearity for all possible combinations of linear and nonlinear relations between two variables. Next, the method is applied to three sandbar datasets consisting of daily-observed cross-shore sandbar positions and hydrodynamic forcings, spanning between 5 and 9 years. Our analysis reveals the presence of nonlinearity in the time-series of sandbar and wave data, and the relative importance of nonlinearity for each variable. The relation between the results of each sandbar case and patterns in bar behavior are discussed, together with the effects of noise. The small effect of nonlinearity implies that long-term prediction of sandbar positions based on wave forcings might not require sophisticated nonlinear models.

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