Extreme Forces in Short-Crested Seas

1980 ◽  
Vol 20 (06) ◽  
pp. 567-578
Author(s):  
S.W. Huntington ◽  
G. Gilbert

Abstract The overall wave force on a large structure in a real multidirectional sea does not occur in a single direction but is a vector randomly varying in magnitude and direction. Although existing theories enable us to calculate the extremes of the orthogonal components of force, the designer needs the extreme resultant or total force. A theory is presented for estimating the extremes of the resultant and is confirmed by experimental measurement. Introduction Recent development of offshore resources in deep water and severe environmental conditions has led to the use of monolithic concrete structures. These structures have members large enough to modify the wave field, and are regarded as being in the diffraction regime of wave loading. Thus, the induced forces and moments are considered linear responses to the incident waves. Estimation of the forces and moments on such structures is based on the linear diffraction theory of Havelock. Several numerical models are used to compute the transfer functions between the incident waves and resuring forces and moments on large structures of arbitrary shape. In general, such models give the magnitude and phase of the transfer function between the waves and the loading at a range of discrete frequencies and angles of wave incidence. In parallel with the numerical approach, analytical methods have been developed to give directly the transfer functions for force and moment on a vertical cylinder in long-crested random waves. This analytical approach has also been extended to real seas that are multidirectional (short crested). In such seas, forces and moments are induced on structures both in line with and at right angles to the principal wave direction. The method gives the transfer functions between the components of force and moment and the total wave spectrum for any particular angular distribution of wave energy. The validity of this direct approach in short-crested seas has been confirmed by laboratory model tests in multidirectional random waves. These two approaches are complementary in that the numerical method allows estimation for regular waves on arbitrarily-shaped real structures; the analytical and laboratory studies allows the extension of results to real multidirectional random seas using the principle of superposition. By using this method, it is possible to compute the spectra of force and moment in two horizontal component directions on a real structure in a real short-crested sea. Since linear superposition is used both in the frequency and angular domains, the calculated component forces and moments also are linear with respect to the waves. However, the spectra of force and moment on a structure are of little direct value to designers concerned with primary failure. They are interested in the possible extremes and will want to set design limits on the forces and moments that are unlikely to be exceeded during the lift of the structure. Since the component forces and moments are linear responses to the waves, the statistical technique used to describe extreme wave elevations can be used to describe the extremes of the components of the loading. This method requires only the gross parameters of the spectra. Since the total (vector) force or moment combines the components and their probabilities in a nonlinear manner, the vital extreme values cannot be derived from the standard theory. This paper presents an analytical solution to this vector problem. SPEJ P. 567^

1978 ◽  
Vol 1 (16) ◽  
pp. 16 ◽  
Author(s):  
H. Lundgren ◽  
S.E. Sand

In many applications there is a great need for a correct description of the natural, irregular three-dimensional sea and its reproduction in physical and numerical models. Because of the tremendous difficulties inherent in the nonlinearities, the science of coastal engineering is still very far from this ultimate goal. Indeed, the scope of this paper is comparatively very modest: To describe and reproduce natural, irregular two-dimensional waves, i.e. waves propagating in one direction in a flume. In addition, this scope is fulfilled only by assuming linear superposition of Fourier terms. As opposed to the usual spectral description, the deterministic description presented here does not eliminate the phase information in the wave train recorded. Because of the nonlinearities, however, the linear deterministic description invariably degenerates with the distance travelled by the waves. It appears though from the present paper that the degeneration is fairly slow even for rather steep waves.


2012 ◽  
Vol 1 (33) ◽  
pp. 20
Author(s):  
Renata Archetti ◽  
Maria Gabriella Gaeta

The main parameter for the assessment of coastal vulnerability and sediment transport is the wave run-up on the beach, defining the limit of maximum flooding, but also hydrodynamic properties in the Swash Zone (SZ) are trivial for the comprehension of hydro-morphodynamic processes. Several studies have been carried out on the SZ but few literature is still available on the run-up and on SZ flows on beaches protected by Low Crested Structures (LCSs), where flow motion is driven by a combination of low frequency infra-gravity waves and incident waves. In presence of breakwaters, swash incident waves are transmitted through the structure. In the transmission area behind the structures, wave energy is shifted to higher frequencies with respect to the incident wave spectrum and in general its mean period considerably decreases with respect to the incident one. Collecting in situ run-up measurements during storms is essential to understand the SZ processes and properly calibrate their both empirical and numerical models but measuring extreme run-up is difficult, due to the severe sea conditions and due to unexpected nature of storms. The present paper present a numerical and experimental analysis of the wave run-up and of the flow properties on a beach: the study shows the different behavior of unprotected and protected beach, subjected to the same wave conditions. In particular the paper shows that submerged breakwaters reduce in general the run-up height, on the basis of the calibrated 2DV numerical simulations, under extreme wave conditions (TR >50 years), the effect of submerged breakwaters seems to be negligible on the run-up height. Moreover a preliminary empirical equation for run-up with protected beach is proposed


1999 ◽  
Vol 33 (3) ◽  
pp. 33-37 ◽  
Author(s):  
Nobuhisa Kobayashi

The quantitative understanding of regular and irregular wave runup on inclined coastal structures and beaches has improved considerably for the last decade owing to the improved laboratory and field experimental capabilities followed by the development of time-dependent numerical models. Numerical models based on the finite-amplitude shallow-water equations including the effects of bottom friction have been verified fairly extensively using laboratory and field data. The capabilities and limitations of the models are summarized so that marine engineers and scientists may be able to apply them effectively. The existing models are practically limited to normally incident waves on coastal structures and beaches of alongshore uniformity. The extension of these models to directional random waves on coastal structures and beaches of arbitrary three-dimensional geometry will be challenging numerically.


1994 ◽  
Vol 116 (3) ◽  
pp. 127-136 ◽  
Author(s):  
A. Naess

The paper presents the results of statistical analyses of combined first-order and second-order, sum-frequency response in heave, pitch, and roll of a TLP structure subjected to random, long-crested seas. The results are based on available numerically calculated data for the linear and quadratic transfer functions from the waves to the hydrodynamic loads on the TLP. It has also been assumed that the equations of motion in heave, pitch, and roll can be reasonably well approximated by a set of uncoupled, linear, and time-invariant equations.


Mathematics ◽  
2021 ◽  
Vol 9 (9) ◽  
pp. 920
Author(s):  
Chukwuma Ogbonnaya ◽  
Chamil Abeykoon ◽  
Adel Nasser ◽  
Ali Turan

A system of transcendental equations (SoTE) is a set of simultaneous equations containing at least a transcendental function. Solutions involving transcendental equations are often problematic, particularly in the form of a system of equations. This challenge has limited the number of equations, with inter-related multi-functions and multi-variables, often included in the mathematical modelling of physical systems during problem formulation. Here, we presented detailed steps for using a code-based modelling approach for solving SoTEs that may be encountered in science and engineering problems. A SoTE comprising six functions, including Sine-Gordon wave functions, was used to illustrate the steps. Parametric studies were performed to visualize how a change in the variables affected the superposition of the waves as the independent variable varies from x1 = 1:0.0005:100 to x1 = 1:5:100. The application of the proposed approach in modelling and simulation of photovoltaic and thermophotovoltaic systems were also highlighted. Overall, solutions to SoTEs present new opportunities for including more functions and variables in numerical models of systems, which will ultimately lead to a more robust representation of physical systems.


2021 ◽  
Vol 9 (6) ◽  
pp. 600
Author(s):  
Hyun Dong Kim ◽  
Shin-ichi Aoki

When erosion occurs, sand beaches cannot maintain sufficient sand width, foreshore slopes become steeper due to frequent erosion effects, and beaches are trapped in a vicious cycle of vulnerability due to incident waves. Accordingly, beach nourishment can be used as a countermeasure to simultaneously minimize environmental impacts. However, beach nourishment is not a permanent solution and requires periodic renourishment after several years. To address this problem, minimizing the period of renourishment is an economical alternative. In the present study, using the Tuvaluan coast with its cross-sectional gravel nourishment site, four different test cases were selected for the hydraulic model experiment aimed at discovering an effective nourishment strategy to determine effective alternative methods. Numerical simulations were performed to reproduce gravel nourishment; however, none of these models simultaneously simulated the sediment transport of gravel and sand. Thus, an artificial neural network, a deep learning model, was developed using hydraulic model experiments as training datasets to analyze the possibility of simultaneously accomplishing the sediment transport of sand and gravel and supplement the shortcomings of the numerical models.


2021 ◽  
pp. 107754632110337
Author(s):  
Arup Maji ◽  
Fernando Moreu ◽  
James Woodall ◽  
Maimuna Hossain

Multi-Input-Multi-Output vibration testing typically requires the determination of inputs to achieve desired response at multiple locations. First, the responses due to each input are quantified in terms of complex transfer functions in the frequency domain. In this study, two Inputs and five Responses were used leading to a 5 × 2 transfer function matrix. Inputs corresponding to the desired Responses are then computed by inversion of the rectangular matrix using Pseudo-Inverse techniques that involve least-squared solutions. It is important to understand and quantify the various sources of errors in this process toward improved implementation of Multi-Input-Multi-Output testing. In this article, tests on a cantilever beam with two actuators (input controlled smart shakers) were used as Inputs while acceleration Responses were measured at five locations including the two input locations. Variation among tests was quantified including its impact on transfer functions across the relevant frequency domain. Accuracy of linear superposition of the influence of two actuators was quantified to investigate the influence of relative phase information. Finally, the accuracy of the Multi-Input-Multi-Output inversion process was investigated while varying the number of Responses from 2 (square transfer function matrix) to 5 (full-rectangular transfer function matrix). Results were examined in the context of the resonances and anti-resonances of the system as well as the ability of the actuators to provide actuation energy across the domain. Improved understanding of the sources of uncertainty from this study can be used for more complex Multi-Input-Multi-Output experiments.


2021 ◽  
Vol 13 (11) ◽  
pp. 2070
Author(s):  
Ana Basañez ◽  
Vicente Pérez-Muñuzuri

Wave energy resource assessment is crucial for the development of the marine renewable industry. High-frequency radars (HF radars) have been demonstrated to be a useful wave measuring tool. Therefore, in this work, we evaluated the accuracy of two CODAR Seasonde HF radars for describing the wave energy resource of two offshore areas in the west Galician coast, Spain (Vilán and Silleiro capes). The resulting wave characterization was used to estimate the electricity production of two wave energy converters. Results were validated against wave data from two buoys and two numerical models (SIMAR, (Marine Simulation) and WaveWatch III). The statistical validation revealed that the radar of Silleiro cape significantly overestimates the wave power, mainly due to a large overestimation of the wave energy period. The effect of the radars’ data loss during low wave energy periods on the mean wave energy is partially compensated with the overestimation of wave height and energy period. The theoretical electrical energy production of the wave energy converters was also affected by these differences. Energy period estimation was found to be highly conditioned to the unimodal interpretation of the wave spectrum, and it is expected that new releases of the radar software will be able to characterize different sea states independently.


2021 ◽  
Vol 9 (1) ◽  
pp. 64
Author(s):  
Silvia Pennino ◽  
Antonio Angrisano ◽  
Vincenzo Della Corte ◽  
Giampaolo Ferraioli ◽  
Salvatore Gaglione ◽  
...  

A parametric wave spectrum resembling procedure is applied to detect the sea state parameters, namely the wave peak period and significant wave height, based on the measurement and analysis of the heave and pitch motions of a vessel in a seaway, recorded by a smartphone located onboard the ship. The measurement system makes it possible to determine the heave and pitch acceleration spectra of the reference ship in the encounter frequency domain and, subsequently, the absolute sea spectra once the ship motion transfer functions are provided. The measurements have been carried out onboard the research ship “Laura Bassi”, during the oceanographic campaign in the Antarctic Ocean carried out in January and February 2020. The resembled sea spectra are compared with the weather forecast data, provided by the global-WAM (GWAM) model, in order to validate the sea spectrum resembling procedure.


2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
Pablo Poulain ◽  
Anne Le Friant ◽  
Rodrigo Pedreros ◽  
Anne Mangeney ◽  
Andrea Filippini ◽  
...  

<p>Since May 2018, Mayotte island has experienced an important seismic activity linked to the on-going sismo-volcanic crisis. The epicenters of the seismic swarms are located between 5 and 15 km east of Petite Terre for the main swarm, and 25 km east of Petite Terre for the secondary swarm. Although variations in the number of earthquakes and their distribution have been observed since the start of the eruption in early July 2018 [Lemoine A.(2020), Cesca et al.(2020)], a continuous seismicity persists and could generate several earthquakes of magnitudes close to M4 widely felt by the population. This recurrent seismicity could weaken the steep submarine slopes of Mayotte, as highlighted by the high resolution bathymetry data collected during the MAYOBS cruise in May 2019 (Feuillet et al.,submitted) and trigger submarine landslides with associated tsunamis.</p><p>To address the hazards associated with such events, we analyzed morphological data to define 8 scenarios of potential submarine slides with volumes ranging from 11,25.10<sup>6</sup> to 800.10<sup>6</sup> m<sup>3</sup> and we simulate the landslide dynamics and generated waves. We use two complementary numerical models: (i) the code HYSEA to simulate the dynamic of the submarine granular flows and the water wave generation, and (ii) the Boussinesq FUNWAVE- TVD model simulate the waves propagation and the inundation on Mayotte. The effect of the time at which the models are coupled is investigated.</p><p>The most impacting submarine slide scenarios are located close to Petite Terre at a shallow depth. They can locally generate a sea surface elevation more than a meter in local areas especially at Petite Terre. The various simulations show that parts of the island are particularly sensitive to the risk of tsunamis. Indeed, some scenarios that does not cause significant coastal flooding still seems to cause significant hazards in these exposed areas. The barrier reef around Mayotte has a prominent role in controlling the wave propagation towards the island and therefore reducing the impact on land. It should be noted that the arrival of tsunamis on the coastline is not necessarily preceded by a retreat from the sea and the waves can reach the coasts of Mayotte very quicky (few minutes).</p><p> </p><p>Cesca, S., Letort, J., Razafindrakoto, H.N.T. et al. Drainage of a deep magma reservoir near Mayotte inferred from seismicity and deformation. Nat. Geosci. <strong>13, </strong>87–93 (2020). https://doi.org/10.1038/s41561-019-0505-5</p><p>Feuillet, N, Jorry, S. J., Crawford, W, Deplus, C. Thinon, I, Jacques, E. Saurel, J.M., Lemoine, A., Paquet, F., Daniel, R., Gaillot, A., Satriano, C., Peltier, A., Aiken, C., Foix, O., Kowalski, P., Laurent, A., Beauducel, F., Grandin, R., Ballu, V., Bernard, P., Donval, J.P., Geli, L., Gomez, J. Guyader, V., Pelleau, P., Rinnert, E., Bertil, D., Lemarchand, A., Van der Woerd, J.et al. (in rev). Birth of a large volcano offshore Mayotte through lithosphere-scale rifting, Nature.</p><p>Anne Lemoine, Pierre Briole, Didier Bertil, Agathe Roullé, Michael Foumelis, Isabelle Thinon, Daniel Raucoules, Marcello de Michele, Pierre Valty, Roser Hoste Colomer, The 2018–2019 seismo-volcanic crisis east of Mayotte, Comoros islands: seismicity and ground deformation markers of an exceptional submarine eruption, Geophysical Journal International, Volume 223, Issue 1, October 2020, Pages 22–44, https://doi.org/10.1093/gji/ggaa273</p>


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