Experimental statistics of long wave runup on a plane beach

2013 ◽  
Vol 65 ◽  
pp. 195-200 ◽  
Author(s):  
Petr Denissenko ◽  
Ira Didenkulova ◽  
Artem Rodin ◽  
Madis Listak ◽  
Efim Pelinovsky
Keyword(s):  
Wave Runup ◽  
Long Wave

scholarly journals A UNIFIED RUNUP FORMULA FOR BREAKING SOLITARY WAVES ON A UNIFORM BEACH

2018 ◽  
pp. 3
Author(s):  
Yun-Ta Wu ◽  
Philip Li-Fan Liu ◽  
Philip Li-Fan Liu ◽  
Kao-Shu Hwang ◽  
Kao-Shu Hwang ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Solitary Wave ◽  
Solitary Waves ◽  
Large Scale ◽  
Storm Surges ◽  
Research Area ◽  
Easy Access ◽  
Wave Runup ◽  
Wave Flume ◽  
Long Wave ◽  
Analytical Approaches

For coastal management, it is of great importance to understand long-wave induced runup processes and predict maximum runup heights. Long-wave in nature could take different forms, such as swells, storm surges and tsunamis. One of the fundamental waveforms is solitary wave, which has a permanent form in a constant depth. Thus, the issue of solitary wave propagation, shoaling, breaking and runup has been an active research area in coastal engineering community, using experimental, numerical and analytical approaches. Among existing runup experiments, only limited numbers of experiments were conducted in large-scale wave flume facilities because of the lack of easy access. To enhance the range of surf parameters for breaking solitary waves, new laboratory experiments were carried out in a large-scale wave flume with a 1/100 slope. Several wave conditions in the experiments were on the borderline of plunging and spilling breakers. The main objective of this paper is twofold. The first aim is to present a new dataset for solitary wave runup. The second objective aims to develop a unified empirical formula, based on the available runup data in the literature and the present new data, for the runup of breaking solitary waves on a uniform slope.

Long wave runup on piecewise linear topographies

1998 ◽  
Vol 374 ◽  
pp. 1-28 ◽  
Author(s):  
UTKU KÂNOĞLU ◽  
COSTAS EMMANUEL SYNOLAKIS
Keyword(s):  
Solitary Waves ◽  
Numerical Models ◽  
Piecewise Linear ◽  
Physical Parameters ◽  
Wave Runup ◽  
Asymptotic Results ◽  
Tidal Waves ◽  
Topographic Slope ◽  
Long Wave ◽  
Time Histories

We study long-wave evolution and runup on piecewise linear one- and two-dimensional bathymetries analytically and experimentally with the objective of understanding certain coastal effects of tidal waves. We develop a general solution method for determining the amplification factor of different ocean topographies consisting of linearly varying and constant-depth segments to study how spectral distributions evolve over bathymetry, and apply our results to study the evolution of solitary waves. We find asymptotic results which suggest that solitary waves often interact with piecewise linear topographies in a counter-intuitive manner. We compare our analytical predictions with numerical results, with results from a new set of laboratory experiments from a physical model of Revere Beach, and also with the data on wave runup around an idealized conical island. We find good agreement between our theory and the laboratory results for the time histories of free-surface elevations and for the maximum runup heights. Our results suggest that, at least for simple piecewise linear topographies, analytical methods can be used to calculate effectively some important physical parameters in long-wave runup. Also, by underscoring the effects of the topographic slope at the shoreline, this analysis qualitatively suggests why sometimes predictions of field-applicable numerical models differ substantially from observations of tsunami runup.

scholarly journals Rapid forecasting of tsunami runup heights from 2-D numerical simulations

2011 ◽  
Vol 11 (3) ◽  
pp. 707-714 ◽  
Author(s):  
B. H. Choi ◽  
V. Kaistrenko ◽  
K. O. Kim ◽  
B. I. Min ◽  
E. Pelinovsky
Keyword(s):  
Numerical Simulations ◽  
Japan Sea ◽  
Historical Event ◽  
Wave Runup ◽  
Coastal Inundation ◽  
Tsunami Runup ◽  
Long Wave ◽  
Tsunami Scenarios ◽  
Inundation Model

Abstract. We propose a method to compute tsunami runup heights that is based on an integration of numerical, 2-D shallow-water modelling and an analytical, 1-D long-wave runup theory. This approach provides a faster forecast of tsunami runup heights than a complicated coastal inundation model. Through simulations of potential tsunami scenarios, this approach can also be applied to long-term tsunami prediction. We tested the model by simulating the historical event in the East (Japan) Sea and found that the estimates of runup heights agreed well with the available observations.

scholarly journals Influence of the nonlinearity on statistical characteristics of long wave runup

2011 ◽  
Vol 18 (6) ◽  
pp. 967-975 ◽  
Author(s):  
P. Denissenko ◽  
I. Didenkulova ◽  
E. Pelinovsky ◽  
J. Pearson
Keyword(s):  
Wave Field ◽  
Incident Wave ◽  
Extreme Values ◽  
Irregular Waves ◽  
Statistical Characteristics ◽  
Band Spectrum ◽  
Wave Runup ◽  
Long Wave ◽  
Theoretical Predictions ◽  
Set Up

Abstract. Runup of long irregular waves on a plane beach is studied experimentally in the water flume at the University of Warwick. Statistics of wave runup (displacement and velocity of the moving shoreline and their extreme values) is analyzed for the incident wave field with the narrow band spectrum for different amplitudes of incident waves (different values of the breaking parameter Brσ). It is shown experimentally that the distribution of the shoreline velocity does not depend on Brσ and coincides with the distribution of the vertical velocity in the incident wave field as it is predicted in the statistical theory of nonlinear long wave runup. Statistics of runup amplitudes shows the same behavior as that of the incident wave amplitudes. However, the distribution of the wave runup on a beach differs from the statistics of the incident wave elevation. The mean sea level at the coast rises with an increase in Brσ causing wave set-up on a beach, which agrees with the theoretical predictions. At the same time values of skewness and kurtosis for wave runup are similar to those for the incident wave field and they might be used for the forecast of sea floods at the coast.

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