scholarly journals The Theory of Trapped-Fetch Waves with Tropical Cyclones—An Operational Perspective

2005 ◽  
Vol 20 (3) ◽  
pp. 229-244 ◽  
Author(s):  
Peter J. Bowyer ◽  
Allan W. MacAfee

Abstract The majority of high wave events and almost all cases of extreme or phenomenal wave growth are the result of a high degree of synchronicity between moving storms and the waves that they generate. This wave containment or resonance phenomenon, referred to as trapped-fetch waves, has been known for generations, but not always well understood by forecasters. The twofold threat of trapped-fetch waves is that they have the potential for extreme growth, yet are unheralded by leading swell. Conceptual and numerical Lagrangian reference frame experiments on wave containment are presented, illustrating the influence on tropical cyclone ocean waves by three storm parameters: storm speed, wind speed, and fetch length. To further illustrate the concepts and provide real-time application, a simple, desktop Lagrangian trapped-fetch wave model, used for training and operational assessment of trapped-fetch waves, is described in a companion article.

2016 ◽  
Vol 46 (7) ◽  
pp. 2049-2061 ◽  
Author(s):  
Christopher J. Zappa ◽  
Michael L. Banner ◽  
Russel P. Morison ◽  
Sophia E. Brumer

AbstractA spectral framework for quantifying the geometric/kinematic and dynamic/energetic properties of breaking ocean waves was proposed by Phillips in 1985. Phillips assumed a constant breaking strength coefficient to link the kinematic/geometric breaking crest properties to the associated excess energy and momentum fluxes from the waves to the upper ocean. However, a scale-dependent (spectral) breaking strength coefficient is needed, but is unavailable from measurements. In this paper, the feasibility of a parametric mean effective breaking strength coefficient valid for a wide range of sea states is investigated. All available ocean breaking wave datasets were analyzed and complemented with wave model behavior. Robust evidence is found supporting a single linear parameter relationship between the effective breaking strength and wave age or significant wave steepness. Envisaged applications for the effective breaking strength are described.


2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
Lise Retailleau ◽  
Lucia Gualtieri

<p>The coupling between the ocean activity driven by winds and the solid Earth generates seismic signals recorded by seismometers worldwide. The 2-10 s period band, known as secondary microseism, represents the largest background seismic wavefield. While moving over the ocean, tropical cyclones generate particularly strong and localized sources of secondary microseisms that are detected remotely by seismic arrays.</p><p>We assess and compare the seismic sources of P, SV, and SH waves associated with typhoon Ioke during its extra-tropical transition. To understand their generation mechanisms, we compare the observed multi-phase sources with theoretical sources computed with a numerical ocean wave model, and we assess the influence of the ocean resonance (or ocean site effect) and coastal reflection of ocean waves. We show how the location and lateral extent of the associated seismic source is period- and phase-dependent. This information is crucial for the use of body waves for ambient noise imaging and gives insights about the sea state, complementary to satellite data.</p>


2019 ◽  
Author(s):  
Romain Rainaud ◽  
Lotfi Aouf ◽  
Alice Dalphinet ◽  
Marcos Garcia Sotillo ◽  
Enrique Alvarez-Fanjul ◽  
...  

Abstract. This work aims to evaluate the ocean/waves coupling based on input from the wave modelMFWAM. 1-year coupled runs including seasonal variability has been performed for the IberianBiscay and Ireland domain. We investigated the consequences of improvement in wave physics onthe mixed layer of the ocean with a fine horizontal grid size of 1/36°. The ocean model NEMO andthe wave model MFWAM have been used for this study to prepare the use of coupling operationallyin the IBI Copernicus Marine Service and Monitoring Evironment (CMEMS). Two wave physicsversions have been discussed in this study. The validation of sea surface temperature, surfacecurrents have been implemented in comparison with satellite and in-situ observations. The resultsshow a positive impact of the waves forcing on surface key parameters. For storm cases it has beendemonstrated a good skill of the ocean/wave coupling to capture the peak of surge event such as theone observed for Petra storm.


2021 ◽  
Vol 12 (1) ◽  
Author(s):  
Lise Retailleau ◽  
Lucia Gualtieri

AbstractThe coupling between the ocean activity driven by winds and the solid Earth generates seismic signals recorded by seismometers worldwide. The 2–10 s period band, known as secondary microseism, represents the largest background seismic wavefield. While moving over the ocean, tropical cyclones generate particularly strong and localized sources of secondary microseisms that are detected remotely by seismic arrays. We assess and compare the seismic sources of P, SV, and SH waves associated with typhoon Ioke (2006) during its extra-tropical transition. To understand their generation mechanisms, we compare the observed multi-phase sources with theoretical sources computed with a numerical ocean wave model, and we assess the influence of the ocean resonance (or ocean site effect) and coastal reflection of ocean waves. We show how the location and lateral extent of the associated seismic source is period- and phase-dependent. This information is crucial for the use of body waves for ambient noise imaging and gives insights about the sea state, complementary to satellite data.


2018 ◽  
Vol 115 (17) ◽  
pp. E3969-E3977 ◽  
Author(s):  
Sasikumar Rajoo ◽  
Pascal Vallotton ◽  
Evgeny Onischenko ◽  
Karsten Weis

The nuclear pore complex (NPC) is an eightfold symmetrical channel providing selective transport of biomolecules across the nuclear envelope. Each NPC consists of ∼30 different nuclear pore proteins (Nups) all present in multiple copies per NPC. Significant progress has recently been made in the characterization of the vertebrate NPC structure. However, because of the estimated size differences between the vertebrate and yeast NPC, it has been unclear whether the NPC architecture is conserved between species. Here, we have developed a quantitative image analysis pipeline, termed nuclear rim intensity measurement (NuRIM), to precisely determine copy numbers for almost all Nups within native NPCs of budding yeast cells. Our analysis demonstrates that the majority of yeast Nups are present at most in 16 copies per NPC. This reveals a dramatic difference to the stoichiometry determined for the human NPC, suggesting that despite a high degree of individual Nup conservation, the yeast and human NPC architecture is significantly different. Furthermore, using NuRIM, we examined the effects of mutations on NPC stoichiometry. We demonstrate for two paralog pairs of key scaffold Nups, Nup170/Nup157 and Nup192/Nup188, that their altered expression leads to significant changes in the NPC stoichiometry inducing either voids in the NPC structure or substitution of one paralog by the other. Thus, our results not only provide accurate stoichiometry information for the intact yeast NPC but also reveal an intriguing compositional plasticity of the NPC architecture, which may explain how differences in NPC composition could arise in the course of evolution.


2010 ◽  
Vol 40 (1) ◽  
pp. 155-169 ◽  
Author(s):  
Heidi Pettersson ◽  
Kimmo K. Kahma ◽  
Laura Tuomi

Abstract In slanting fetch conditions the direction of actively growing waves is strongly controlled by the fetch geometry. The effect was found to be pronounced in the long and narrow Gulf of Finland in the Baltic Sea, where it significantly modifies the directional wave climate. Three models with different assumptions on the directional coupling between the wave components were used to analyze the physics responsible for the directional behavior of the waves in the gulf. The directionally decoupled model produced the direction at the spectral peak correctly when the slanting fetch geometry was narrow but gave a weaker steering than observed when the fetch geometry was broader. The method of Donelan estimated well the direction at the spectral peak in well-defined slanting fetch conditions, but overestimated the longer fetch components during wave growth from a more complex shoreline. Neither the decoupled nor the Donelan model reproduced the observed shifting of direction with the frequency. The performance of the third-generation spectral wave model (WAM) in estimating the wave directions was strongly dependent on the grid resolution of the model. The dominant wave directions were estimated satisfactorily when the grid-step size was dropped to 5 km in the gulf, which is 70 km in its narrowest part. A mechanism based on the weakly nonlinear interactions is proposed to explain the strong steering effect in slanting fetch conditions.


2009 ◽  
Vol 642 ◽  
pp. 235-277 ◽  
Author(s):  
M. NITSCHE ◽  
P. D. WEIDMAN ◽  
R. GRIMSHAW ◽  
M. GHRIST ◽  
B. FORNBERG

Over two decades ago, some numerical studies and laboratory experiments identified the phenomenon of leapfrogging internal solitary waves located on separated pycnoclines. We revisit this problem to explore the behaviour of the near resonance phenomenon. We have developed a numerical code to follow the long-time inviscid evolution of isolated mode-two disturbances on two separated pycnoclines in a three-layer stratified fluid bounded by rigid horizontal top and bottom walls. We study the dependence of the solution on input system parameters, namely the three fluid densities and the two interface thicknesses, for fixed initial conditions describing isolated mode-two disturbances on each pycnocline. For most parameter values, the initial disturbances separate immediately and evolve into solitary waves, each with a distinct speed. However, in a narrow region of parameter space, the waves pair up and oscillate for some time in leapfrog fashion with a nearly equal average speed. The motion is only quasi-periodic, as each wave loses energy into its respective dispersive tail, which causes the spatial oscillation magnitude and period to increase until the waves eventually separate. We record the separation time, oscillation period and magnitude, and the final amplitudes and celerity of the separated waves as a function of the input parameters, and give evidence that no perfect periodic solutions occur. A simple asymptotic model is developed to aid in interpretation of the numerical results.


This paper describes an investigation of the height and length of ocean waves and swell in relation to the strength, extent and duration of the wind in the generating area, and the subsequent travel of the swell through calm and disturbed water. The investigation is based on records of waves made on the north coast of Cornwall, in the Irish Sea and in Lough Neagh. It is a practical continuation of the work of Barber & Ursell (1948), who showed that the waves leaving the generating area behave as a continuous spectrum of component wave trains which travel independently with the group velocities appropriate to their periods. The spectral distribution of energy in the storm area is considered, and the relative amplitudes of the different components are deduced empirically under various wind conditions. The results indicate that the wave characteristics become practically independent of fetch after 200 to 300 miles, and that in the equilibrium condition the steepness of the highest waves is inversely proportional to the square root of the wind speed. Some theoretical foundation can be found for the form of the empirical relationships if it is assumed that the wind acts on each wave component independently, and that the sheltering coefficient used by Jeffreys is proportional to the wave steepness. The results provide a basis for making reasonably accurate predictions of waves and swell from meteorological charts and forecasts.


2020 ◽  
Vol 38 ◽  
pp. 101-130
Author(s):  
Jennie Sandström ◽  
Mattias Edman ◽  
Bengt Gunnar Jonsson

Almost all forests in Sweden are managed and only a small fraction are considered natural. One exception is low productive forests where, due to their limited economical value, natural dynamics still dominate. One example is the Scots pine (Pinus sylvestris L.) forests occurring on rocky and nutrient-poor hilltops. Although these forests represent a regionally common forest type with a high degree of naturalness, their dynamics, structure and history are poorly known. We investigated the structure, human impact and fire history in eight rocky pine forests in the High Coast Area in eastern Sweden, initially identified as good representatives of this forest type. This was done by sampling and measuring tree sizes, -ages, fire-scarred trees, as well as dead wood volumes and quality along three transects at each site. The structure was diverse with a sparse layer of trees (basal area 9 m2 and 640 trees larger than 10 cm ha-1) in various sizes and ages; 13 trees ha-1 were more than 300 years old. Dead wood (DW), snags and logs in all stages of decay, was present and although the actual DW (pine) volume (4.4 m3 ha-1) and number of units (53 ha-1) was low, the DW share of total wood volume was 18% on average. Dead wood can be present for several centuries after death; we found examples of both snags and logs that had been dead more than 300 years. Frequent fires have occurred, with an average cycle of 40 years between fires. Most fires occurred between 1500-1900 and many of them (13) during the 1600s. However, fires were probably small since most fire years were only represented at one site and often only in one or a few samples. The rocky pine forests in the High Coast Area are representative of undisturbed forests with low human impact, exhibiting old-growth characteristics and are valuable habitats for organisms connected to sun-exposed DW. Management of protected rocky pine forests may well include small-scale restoration fires and the limited DW volumes should be protected.


2021 ◽  
Vol 893 (1) ◽  
pp. 012058
Author(s):  
R Kurniawan ◽  
H Harsa ◽  
A Ramdhani ◽  
W Fitria ◽  
D Rahmawati ◽  
...  

Abstract Providing Maritime meteorological forecasts (including ocean wave information) is one of BMKG duties. Currently, BMKG employs Wavewatch-3 (WW3) model to forecast ocean waves in Indonesia. Evaluating the wave forecasts is very important to improve the forecasts skill. This paper presents the evaluation of 7-days ahead BMKG’s wave forecast. The evaluation was performed by comparing wave data observation and BMKG wave forecast. The observation data were obtained from RV Mirai 1708 cruise on December 5th to 31st 2017 at the Indian Ocean around 04°14'S and 101°31'E. Some statistical properties and Relative Operating Characteristics (ROC) curve were utilized to assess the model performance. The evaluation processes were carried out on model’s parameters: Significant Wave Height (Hs) and Wind surface for each 7-days forecast started from 00 UTC. The comparation results show that, in average, WW3 forecasts are over-estimate the wave height than that of the observation. The forecast skills determined from the correlation and ROC curves are good for the first- and second-day forecast, while the third until seventh day decrease to fair. This phenomenon is suspected to be caused by the wind data characteristics provided by the Global Forecasts System (GFS) as the input of the model. Nevertheless, although statistical correlation is good for up to 2 days forecast, the average value of Root Mean Square Error (RMSE), absolute bias, and relative error are high. In general, this verifies the overestimate results of the model output and should be taken into consideration to improve BMKG’s wave model performance and forecast accuracy.


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