scholarly journals Effects of Wave Breaking on the Near-Surface Profiles of Velocity and Turbulent Kinetic Energy

2004 ◽  
Vol 34 (2) ◽  
pp. 490-504 ◽  
Author(s):  
Arne Melsom ◽  
Øyvind SÆtra
Keyword(s):  
Surface Stress ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Traditional Approach ◽  
Surface Region ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Stokes Drift ◽  
Surface Velocity ◽  
Momentum Exchange ◽  
Near Surface ◽  
The Mean

Abstract A theoretical model for the near-surface velocity profile in the presence of breaking waves is presented. Momentum is accumulated by growing waves and is released upon wave breaking. In effect, such a transition is a process involving a time-dependent surface stress acting on the mean current. In this paper, conventional theory for the Stokes drift is expanded to fourth-order accuracy in wave steepness. It is shown that the higher-order terms lead to an enhancement of the surface Stokes drift and a slight retardation of the Stokes volume flux. Furthermore, the results from the wave theory are used to obtain a bulk parameterization of momentum exchange during the process of wave breaking. The mean currents are then obtained by application of a variation of the “level 2.5” turbulence closure theory of Mellor and Yamada. When compared with the traditional approach of a constant surface stress, the mean Eulerian current exhibits a weak enhancement in the near-surface region, compensated by a negative shift deeper in the water column. However, it is found that the results of Craig and Banner and the results of Craig are not significantly affected by the present theory. Hence, this study helps to explain why the Craig and Banner model agrees well with observations when a realistic, time-varying surface stress acts on the drift currents.

Characteristics of the wind drift layer and microscale breaking waves

2007 ◽  
Vol 573 ◽  
pp. 417-456 ◽  
Author(s):  
M. H. KAMRAN SIDDIQUI ◽  
MARK R. LOEWEN
Keyword(s):  
Wind Speed ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Mean Velocity ◽  
Wind Drift ◽  
Near Surface ◽  
Wind Speeds ◽  
The Mean ◽  
Rate Of Dissipation ◽  
Drift Layer

An experimental study, investigating the mean flow and turbulence in the wind drift layer formed beneath short wind waves was conducted. The degree to which these flows resemble the flows that occur in boundary layers adjacent to solid walls (i.e. wall-layers) was examined. Simultaneous DPIV (digital particle image velocimetry) and infrared imagery were used to investigate these near-surface flows at a fetch of 5.5 m and wind speeds from 4.5 to 11 m s−1. These conditions produced short steep waves with dominant wavelengths from 6 cm to 18 cm. The mean velocity profiles in the wind drift layer were found to be logarithmic and the flow was hydrodynamically smooth at all wind speeds. The rate of dissipation of turbulent kinetic energy was determined to be significantly greater in magnitude than would occur in a comparable wall-layer. Microscale breaking waves were detected using the DPIV data and the characteristics of breaking and non-breaking waves were compared. The percentage of microscale breaking waves increased abruptly from 11% to 80% as the wind speed increased from 4.5 to 7.4 m s− and then gradually increased to 90% as the wind speed increased to 11 m s−. At a depth of 1 mm, the rate of dissipation was 1.7 to 3.2 times greater beneath microscale breaking waves compared to non-breaking waves. In the crest–trough region beneath microscale breaking waves, 40% to 50% of the dissipation was associated with wave breaking. These results demonstrated that the enhanced near-surface turbulence in the wind drift layer was the result of microscale wave breaking. It was determined that the rate of dissipation of turbulent kinetic energy due to wave breaking is a function of depth, friction velocity, wave height and phase speed as proposed by Terray et al. (1996). Vertical profiles of the rate of dissipation showed that beneath microscale breaking waves there were two distinct layers. Immediately beneath the surface, the dissipation decayed as ζ−0.7 and below this in the second layer it decayed as ζ−2. The enhanced turbulence associated with microscale wave breaking was found to extend to a depth of approximately one significant wave height. The only similarity between the flows in these wind drift layers and wall-layers is that in both cases the mean velocity profiles are logarithmic. The fact that microscale breaking waves were responsible for 40%–50% of the near-surface turbulence supports the premise that microscale breaking waves play a significant role in enhancing the transfer of gas and heat across the air–sea interface.

scholarly journals Mean Velocity Decomposition and Vertical Eddy Diffusivity of the Pacific Ocean from Surface GDP Drifters and 1000-m Argo Floats

2016 ◽  
Vol 46 (6) ◽  
pp. 1751-1768 ◽  
Author(s):  
Stephen M. Chiswell
Keyword(s):  
Eddy Diffusivity ◽  
Surface Velocity ◽  
Mean Velocity ◽  
Argo Data ◽  
Near Surface ◽  
Argo Floats ◽  
Velocity Decomposition ◽  
The Mean ◽  
Vertical Eddy Diffusivity ◽  
Vertical Eddy

AbstractWith the relatively recent development of Global Drifter Program (GDP) drifters that measure the near-surface ocean velocity and Argo floats that can be used to derive both the intermediate-ocean (1000 m) velocity and the mean dynamic height of the surface relative to 1000 dbar, there now exists the opportunity to directly observe the mean velocity decomposition of the ocean. This study computes the mean Ekman velocity by subtracting the mean referenced velocity derived from Argo data from the mean surface velocity derived from GDP data. This Ekman velocity is slightly stronger than previous observations and shows a spatial structure consistent with a vertical eddy diffusivity that is linearly dependent on wind stress. To do this analysis, the author has to deal with the fact that GDP drifters often lose their drogues, and a product of this research is validation of the wind-slip correction applied to GDP drifters that have lost their drogues.

scholarly journals On the distortion of turbulence by a progressive surface wave

2002 ◽  
Vol 458 ◽  
pp. 229-267 ◽  
Author(s):  
M. A. C. TEIXEIRA ◽  
S. E. BELCHER
Keyword(s):  
Shear Flow ◽  
Reynolds Stress ◽  
Wave Attenuation ◽  
Flow Instability ◽  
Laboratory Data ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Stokes Drift ◽  
Streamwise Vortices ◽  
Vertical Vorticity ◽  
The Mean

A rapid-distortion model is developed to investigate the interaction of weak turbulence with a monochromatic irrotational surface water wave. The model is applicable when the orbital velocity of the wave is larger than the turbulence intensity, and when the slope of the wave is sufficiently high that the straining of the turbulence by the wave dominates over the straining of the turbulence by itself. The turbulence suffers two distortions. Firstly, vorticity in the turbulence is modulated by the wave orbital motions, which leads to the streamwise Reynolds stress attaining maxima at the wave crests and minima at the wave troughs; the Reynolds stress normal to the free surface develops minima at the wave crests and maxima at the troughs. Secondly, over several wave cycles the Stokes drift associated with the wave tilts vertical vorticity into the horizontal direction, subsequently stretching it into elongated streamwise vortices, which come to dominate the flow. These results are shown to be strikingly different from turbulence distorted by a mean shear flow, when ‘streaky structures’ of high and low streamwise velocity fluctuations develop. It is shown that, in the case of distortion by a mean shear flow, the tendency for the mean shear to produce streamwise vortices by distortion of the turbulent vorticity is largely cancelled by a distortion of the mean vorticity by the turbulent fluctuations. This latter process is absent in distortion by Stokes drift, since there is then no mean vorticity.The components of the Reynolds stress and the integral length scales computed from turbulence distorted by Stokes drift show the same behaviour as in the simulations of Langmuir turbulence reported by McWilliams, Sullivan & Moeng (1997). Hence we suggest that turbulent vorticity in the upper ocean, such as produced by breaking waves, may help to provide the initial seeds for Langmuir circulations, thereby complementing the shear-flow instability mechanism developed by Craik & Leibovich (1976).The tilting of the vertical vorticity into the horizontal by the Stokes drift tends also to produce a shear stress that does work against the mean straining associated with the wave orbital motions. The turbulent kinetic energy then increases at the expense of energy in the wave. Hence the wave decays. An expression for the wave attenuation rate is obtained by scaling the equation for the wave energy, and is found to be broadly consistent with available laboratory data.

scholarly journals Ocean bubbles under high wind conditions. Part 1: Bubble distribution and development

2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
Helen Czerski ◽  
Ian M. Brooks ◽  
Steve Gunn ◽  
Robin Pascal ◽  
Adrian Matei ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Void Fraction ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Surface Flow ◽  
Stokes Drift ◽  
Gas Transfer ◽  
Langmuir Circulation ◽  
Near Surface ◽  
Wind Speeds ◽  
Void Fractions ◽  
Bubble Plumes

Abstract. The bubbles generated by breaking waves are of considerable scientific interest due to their influence on air-sea gas transfer, aerosol production, and upper ocean optics and acoustics. However, a detailed understanding of the processes creating deeper bubble plumes (extending 2–10 metres below the ocean surface) and their significance for air-sea gas exchange is still lacking. Here, we present bubble measurements from the HiWinGS expedition in the North Atlantic in 2013, collected during several storms with wind speeds of 10–27 m s−1. A suite of instruments was used to measure bubbles from a self-orienting free-floating spar buoy: a specialised bubble camera, acoustical resonators, and an upward-pointing sonar. The focus in this paper is on bubble void fractions and plume structure. The results are consistent with the presence of a heterogeneous shallow bubble layer occupying the top 1–2 m of the ocean which is regularly replenished by breaking waves, and deeper plumes which are only formed from the shallow layer at the convergence zones of Langmuir circulation. These advection events are not directly connected to surface breaking. The void fraction distributions at 2 m depth show a sharp cut-off at a void fraction of 10−4.5 even in the highest winds, implying the existence of mechanisms limiting the void fractions close to the surface. Below wind speeds of 16 m s−1 or RHw = 2 × 106, the probability distribution of void fraction at 2 m depth is very similar in all conditions, but increases significantly above either threshold. Void fractions are significantly different during periods of rising and falling winds, but there is no distinction with wave age. There is a complex near-surface flow structure due to Langmuir circulation, Stokes drift, and wind-induced current shear which influences the spatial distribution of bubbles within the top few metres. We do not see evidence for slow bubble dissolution as bubbles are carried downwards, implying that collapse is the more likely termination process. We conclude that the shallow and deeper bubble layers need to be studied simultaneously to link them to the 3D flow patterns in the top few metres of the ocean. Many open questions remain about the extent to which deep bubble plumes contribute to air-sea gas transfer. A companion paper (Czerski, 2021) addresses the observed bubble size distributions and the processes responsible for them.

scholarly journals Transport due to Transient Progressive Waves

2019 ◽  
Vol 49 (9) ◽  
pp. 2323-2336
Author(s):  
Juan M. Restrepo ◽  
Jorge M. Ramirez
Keyword(s):  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Stokes Drift ◽  
Lagrangian Model ◽  
Navier Stokes ◽  
Lagrangian Description ◽  
Transient Waves ◽  
Two Phase ◽  
Transient Transport ◽  
The Mean ◽  
Progressive Waves

AbstractMaking use of a Lagrangian description, we interpret the kinematics and analyze the mean transport due to numerically generated transient progressive waves, including breaking waves. The waves are packets and are generated with a boundary-forced, air–water, two-phase Navier–Stokes solver. These transient waves produce transient transport, which can sometimes be larger than what would be estimated using estimates developed for translationally invariant progressive waves. We identify the critical assumption that makes our standard notion of the steady Stokes drift inapplicable to the data and explain how and in what sense the transport due to transient waves can be larger than the steady counterpart. A comprehensive analysis of the data in the Lagrangian framework leads us to conclude that much of the transport can be understood using an irrotational approximation of the velocity, even though the simulations use Navier–Stokes fluid simulations with moderately high Reynolds numbers. Armed with this understanding, it is possible to formulate a simple Lagrangian model that captures the mean transport and variance of transport for a large range of wave amplitudes. For large-amplitude waves, the parcel paths in the neighborhood of the free surface exhibit increased dispersion and lingering transport due to the generation of vorticity. We examined the wave-breaking case. For this case, it is possible to characterize the transport very well, away from the wave boundary layer, and approximately using a simple model that captures the unresolved breaking dynamics via a stochastic parameterization.

Upslope Internal-Wave Stokes Drift, and Compensating Downslope Eulerian Mean Currents, Observed above a Lakebed

2016 ◽  
Vol 46 (6) ◽  
pp. 1947-1961 ◽  
Author(s):  
Stephen M. Henderson
Keyword(s):  
Boundary Layer ◽  
Internal Wave ◽  
Internal Waves ◽  
Outer Boundary ◽  
Stokes Drift ◽  
Surface Velocity ◽  
Intermediate Water ◽  
Mean Velocity ◽  
Near Surface ◽  
Velocity Fluctuations

AbstractIn a small lake, where flows were dominated by internal waves with 10–32-h period, slow but persistent mean transport of water over many wave periods was examined. Acoustic Doppler profilers (ADPs) and a vertical string of temperature loggers were deployed where the lower thermocline intersected the sloping lakebed. Near (<1 m above) the bed, internal waves, coherent with a lakewide seiche, propagated upslope at ~0.023 m s−1. Near-bed wave-induced water velocity fluctuations had a standard deviation of <0.02 m s−1. Near the surface, velocity fluctuations had similar magnitude, but lateral wave propagation was unclear. Averaged over many wave periods, the near-bed Eulerian velocity flowed downslope at ~0.01 m s−1, and was roughly cancelled by an upslope internal-wave Stokes drift (estimated by assuming that weakly nonlinear waves propagated without change of form). To examine net transport, while relaxing approximations used to estimate the Stokes drift, the observed temperature range (9°–25°C) was divided into 0.5°C increments, and the depth-integrated, wave-averaged flux of water in each temperature class was calculated. The coldest (near-bed) water was slowly transported onshore, opposite the Eulerian mean velocity. Onshore flux of warm near-surface water was comparable to an Eulerian-mean flux, indicating minimal near-surface Stokes drift. Intermediate water, from the middle of the water column and the outer boundary layer, was transported offshore by an offshore Stokes drift. The downslope near-bed Eulerian mean velocity, together with intensification of mean stratification within 0.4 m of the bed, may enhance boundary layer mixing.

Analysis of Numerical Simulation on Near Surface Beneath Clean and Contaminated Small-Scale Wind-Driven Water Waves

2007 ◽  
Author(s):  
Xiaoxia Hu ◽  
Ali Dolatabadi ◽  
Kamran Siddiqul
Keyword(s):  
Numerical Model ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Numerical Study ◽  
Surface Region ◽  
Surface Flow ◽  
Small Scale ◽  
Mean Velocity ◽  
Near Surface ◽  
The Mean ◽  
Good Agreement

We report on a numerical study conducted to investigate the near-surface flow beneath clean and contaminated small-scale wind-driven water surfaces. The numerical model is validated in terms of the velocity and surface wave characteristics. A good agreement is observed between the experimental and numerical values. The results from the numerical model show that the mean velocity in the near-surface region is 25–50% higher beneath the contaminated surface as compared to the clear surface. The present trend is also in agreement with the previous experimental observations.

Properties of Gallium Disorder and Gold Implants in GaN

2000 ◽  
Vol 647 ◽  
Author(s):  
W. Jiang ◽  
W.J. Weber ◽  
S. Thevuthasan ◽  
V. Shutthanandan
Keyword(s):  
Rutherford Backscattering Spectrometry ◽  
High Mobility ◽  
Surface Region ◽  
Intermediate Stage ◽  
Near Surface ◽  
Projected Range ◽  
Implantation Damage ◽  
The Mean ◽  
Fluence Range

AbstractEpitaxial single-crystal GaN films on sapphire were implanted 60° off the <0001> surface normal with 1 MeV Au2+ or 3 MeV Au3+ over a fluence range from 0.88 to 86.2 ions/nm2 at 180 and 300 K. The implantation damage was studied in-situ using 2 MeV He+ Rutherford backscattering spectrometry in channeling geometry (RBS/C). The disordering rate in the near- surface region is faster than at the damage peak. In all cases, results show an intermediate stage of Ga disorder saturation at the damage peak. During the thermal annealing at 870 K for 20 min, some Au implants in GaN diffuse into the amorphized surface region, while the remaining Au atoms distribute around the mean ion-projected-range. These results suggest a high mobility of both Ga defects and Au implants in GaN. Deeper damage implantation by 3 MeV Au3+ indicates that GaN cannot be completely amorphized up to the highest ion fluence (86.2 ions/nm2) applied at 300 K.

scholarly journals Measurement Characteristics of Near-Surface Currents from Ultra-Thin Drifters, Drogued Drifters, and HF Radar

2018 ◽  
Vol 10 (10) ◽  
pp. 1633 ◽  
Author(s):  
Steven Morey ◽  
Nicolas Wienders ◽  
Dmitry Dukhovskoy ◽  
Mark Bourassa
Keyword(s):  
High Frequency ◽  
Measurement Techniques ◽  
Hf Radar ◽  
Stokes Drift ◽  
Surface Velocity ◽  
Surface Currents ◽  
Material Transport ◽  
Surface Shear ◽  
Near Surface ◽  
Radar Velocity

Concurrent measurements by satellite tracked drifters of different hull and drogue configurations and coastal high-frequency radar reveal substantial differences in estimates of the near-surface velocity. These measurements are important for understanding and predicting material transport on the ocean surface as well as the vertical structure of the near-surface currents. These near-surface current observations were obtained during a field experiment in the northern Gulf of Mexico intended to test a new ultra-thin drifter design. During the experiment, thirty small cylindrical drifters with 5 cm height, twenty-eight similar drifters with 10 cm hull height, and fourteen drifters with 91 cm tall drogues centered at 100 cm depth were deployed within the footprint of coastal High-Frequency (HF) radar. Comparison of collocated velocity measurements reveals systematic differences in surface velocity estimates obtained from the different measurement techniques, as well as provides information on properties of the drifter behavior and near-surface shear. Results show that the HF radar velocity estimates had magnitudes significantly lower than the 5 cm and 10 cm drifter velocity of approximately 45% and 35%, respectively. The HF radar velocity magnitudes were similar to the drogued drifter velocity. Analysis of wave directional spectra measurements reveals that surface Stokes drift accounts for much of the velocity difference between the drogued drifters and the thin surface drifters except during times of wave breaking.

Wave-driven currents and vortex dynamics on barred beaches

2001 ◽  
Vol 449 ◽  
pp. 313-339 ◽  
Author(s):  
OLIVER BÜHLER ◽  
TIVON E. JACOBSON
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water ◽  
Shallow Water Equations ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Bottom Topography ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Vortex Structures ◽  
Water Model ◽  
Mean Flow ◽  
The Mean

We present a theoretical and numerical investigation of longshore currents driven by breaking waves on beaches, especially barred beaches. The novel feature considered here is that the wave envelope is allowed to vary in the alongshore direction, which leads to the generation of strong dipolar vortex structures where the waves are breaking. The nonlinear evolution of these vortex structures is studied in detail using a simple analytical theory to model the effect of a sloping beach. One of our findings is that the vortex evolution provides a robust mechanism through which the preferred location of the longshore current can move shorewards from the location of wave breaking. Such current dislocation is an often-observed (but ill-understood) phenomenon on real barred beaches.To underpin our results, we present a comprehensive theoretical description of the relevant wave–mean interaction theory in the context of a shallow-water model for the beach. Therein we link the radiation-stress theory of Longuet-Higgins & Stewart to recently established results concerning the mean vorticity generation due to breaking waves. This leads to detailed results for the entire life-cycle of the mean-flow vortex evolution, from its initial generation by wave breaking until its eventual dissipative decay due to bottom friction.In order to test and illustrate our theory we also present idealized nonlinear numerical simulations of both waves and vortices using the full shallow-water equations with bottom topography. In these simulations wave breaking occurs through shock formation of the shallow-water waves. We note that because the shallow-water equations also describe the two-dimensional flow of a homentropic perfect gas, our theoretical and numerical results can also be applied to nonlinear acoustics and sound–vortex interactions.

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