Wave-Induced Sediment Transport and Sandbar Migration

Science ◽  
2003 ◽  
Vol 299 (5614) ◽  
pp. 1885-1887 ◽  
Author(s):  
F. Hoefel
2006 ◽  
Vol 53 (10) ◽  
pp. 817-824 ◽  
Author(s):  
Tian-Jian Hsu ◽  
Steve Elgar ◽  
R.T. Guza

2015 ◽  
Vol 42 (8) ◽  
pp. 2869-2877 ◽  
Author(s):  
A. Fernández-Mora ◽  
D. Calvete ◽  
A. Falqués ◽  
H. E. de Swart

2014 ◽  
Vol 56 (2) ◽  
pp. 1450008-1-1450008-21 ◽  
Author(s):  
Tomoaki Nakamura ◽  
Yuta Nezasa ◽  
Yong-Hwan Cho ◽  
Ryo Ishihara ◽  
Norimi Mizutani

Author(s):  
ZHUBIN CAO ◽  
CHI ZHANG ◽  
HONGSHUAI QI ◽  
YAO ZHANG ◽  
JINHAI ZHENG ◽  
...  

1988 ◽  
Vol 1 (21) ◽  
pp. 108 ◽  
Author(s):  
J.C. Doering ◽  
A.J. Bowen

It has been realized for nearly one hundred years that the transport of sediment is related to the characteristics of a wave, in particular its shape. Cornish (1898) noticed that the shoreward velocity associated with a wave crest was more effective at moving coarse sediment than was the seaward velocity associated with the wave trough. Cornish's observation was consistent with the theory of Stokes (1847), which predicts the onshore velocity associated with the wave crest is stronger and of shorter duration than the offshore velocity associated with the wave trough. This horizontal asymmetry of the cross-shore flow, which is a reflection of the wave shape, is known as velocity skewness. It has been suggested that "the existence of the beach depends on small departures from symmetry in the velocity field balancing the tendency for gravity to move material offshore"(Bowen, 1980). Although the concept of velocity skewness has been incorporated into detailed predictors of sediment transport (Bowen, 1980; Bailard and Inman, 1981) it is only one of many facets that needs to be understood in order to make the accurate prediction of sediment transport realizable. A comprehension of sediment transport is hampered by both an incomplete knowledge of the hydrodynamics and a lack of instrumentation to directly measure instantaneous sediment concentration and the accurate prediction of sediment transport is probably the most enigmatic problem in coastal engineering. Occasionally, suspended sediment concentration has been inferred from in situ pumps and hand-held tubes, but these methods lack the temporal and spatial resolution necessary to elucidate the details of the interaction between the waveinduced flow and the sediment. Recently, a miniature optical backscatter sensor (MOBS), which provides a time series of suspended sediment concentration at a "point", was developed by Downing et al. (1981). During a recent field experiment a vertical array of 5 of these optical backscatter sensors and a colocated flow meter was deployed close to the sea bed. These colocated measurements provide a unique opportunity to investigate the response of near-bed suspended sediment concentration to the wave-induced flow.


2020 ◽  
Vol 2020 ◽  
pp. 1-17
Author(s):  
Xiaojian Liu ◽  
Cheng Liu ◽  
Xiaowei Zhu ◽  
Yong He ◽  
Qisong Wang ◽  
...  

Breaking wave-induced scour is recognized as one of the major causes of coastal erosion and offshore structure failure, which involves in the full 3D water-air-sand interaction, raising a great challenge for the numerical simulation. To better understand this process, a nonlinear 3D numerical model based on the open-source CFD platform OpenFOAM® was self-developed in this study. The Navier–Stokes equations were used to compute the two-phase incompressible flow, combining with the finite volume method (FVM) to discretize calculation domain, a modified VOF method to track the free surface, and a k−ε model to closure the turbulence. The nearshore sediment transport process is reproduced in view of shear stress, suspended load, and bed load, in which the terms of shear stress and suspended load were updated by introducing volume fraction. The seabed morphology is updated based on Exner equation and implemented by dynamic mesh technique. The mass conservative sand slide algorithm was employed to avoid the incredible vary of the bed mesh. Importantly, a two-way coupling method connecting the hydrodynamic module with the beach morphodynamic module is implemented at each computation step to ensure the fluid-sediment interaction. The capabilities of this model were calibrated by laboratory data from some published references, and the advantages/disadvantages, as well as proper recommendations, were introduced. Finally, nonbreaking- and breaking wave-induced scour around the monopile, as well as breaking wave-induced beach evolution, were reproduced and discussed. This study would be significantly helpful to understand and evaluate the nearshore sediment transport.


2011 ◽  
Vol 58 (11) ◽  
pp. 1072-1088 ◽  
Author(s):  
Xin Chen ◽  
Yong Li ◽  
Xiaojing Niu ◽  
Daoyi Chen ◽  
Xiping Yu

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