The structure of wind waves and the contribution of its components in the alongshore sandy sediment transport

Author(s):  
Boris Divinskii ◽  
Ruben Kosyan
2013 ◽  
Vol 718-720 ◽  
pp. 371-376
Author(s):  
Yin Cai ◽  
Meng Guo Li ◽  
Ming Xiao Xie

Based on a series of multi-source satellite remote sensing imageries and wind parameters extracted from QuickSCAT satellite datasets, the surface suspended sediment concentrations (SSC) of the Zhuanghe coastal area, China was investigated using the retrieval technique. The results showed that the SSC of the Zhuanghe coastal area is higher in the nearshore zone, and gradually diminishes to the offshore. During the ebbing process, the range of high SSC zone is wider than that during the flooding process. This feature indicated that the suspended sediment transport is mainly determined by the ebb currents, and the sediment source comes from the nearshore shallow flats, where the sediments could be entrained by the wind waves and then diffuses offshore or alongshore with the tidal currents.


2008 ◽  
Vol 49 (2) ◽  
pp. 325-345 ◽  
Author(s):  
N. P. Kurian ◽  
K. Rajith ◽  
T. S. Shahul Hameed ◽  
L. Sheela Nair ◽  
M. V. Ramana Murthy ◽  
...  

2021 ◽  
Vol 12 (23) ◽  
pp. 33-48
Author(s):  
Goran Lončar ◽  
◽  
Filip Kalinić ◽  
Dalibor Carević ◽  
Damjan Bujak ◽  
...  

The morphodynamics of an artificial gravel beach in the Bay of Rijeka (Ploče Beach) was analyzed. The morphological changes of the beach face were monitored through an intense situation of gravitational surface wind waves from the incident SSW direction. A numerical modeling technique was applied, after initially establishing a numerical model for wave deformation. A model for sediment transport was established based on its results. Both models were based on the finite volume method. In addition, the partial contribution of the longshore component of sediment transport was analyzed based on empirical formulae. The modeling results were verified by comparing the positions and amounts of eroded/accumulated material along the beach with the processing of terrain images in the form of point clouds. The erosion and accumulation positions of the beach sediment material, obtained by numerical model simulations, corresponded to the surveyed positions. The total volume of eroded and accumulated material based on terrain image processing corresponded to the model values.


Water ◽  
2020 ◽  
Vol 12 (7) ◽  
pp. 2072
Author(s):  
Courtney Elliton ◽  
Kehui Xu ◽  
Victor H. Rivera-Monroy

Sediment transport in coastal regions is regulated by the interaction of river discharge, wind, waves, and tides, yet the role of vegetation in this interaction is not well understood. Here, we evaluated these variables using multiple acoustic and optical sensors deployed for 30–60 days in spring and summer/fall 2015 at upstream and downstream stations in Mike Island, a deltaic island within the Wax Lake Delta, LA, USA. During a flooding stage, semidiurnal and diurnal tidal impact was minimal on an adjacent river channel, but significant in Mike Island where vegetation biomass was low and wave influence was greater downstream. During summer/fall, a “vegetated channel” constricted the water flow, decreasing current speeds from ~13 cm/s upstream to nearly zero downstream. Synchrony between the upstream and downstream water levels in spring (R2 = 0.91) decreased in summer/fall (R2 = 0.84) due to dense vegetation, which also reduced the wave heights from 3–20 cm (spring) to nearly 0 cm (summer/fall). Spatial and temporal differences in total inorganic nitrogen and orthophosphate concentrations in the overlying and sediment porewater were evident as result of vegetation growth and expansion during summer/fall. This study provides key hourly/daily data and information needed to improve the parameterization of biophysical models in coastal wetland restoration projects.


2011 ◽  
Vol 1 (32) ◽  
pp. 34 ◽  
Author(s):  
Raul Gonzalez-Santamaria ◽  
Qingping Zou ◽  
Shunqi Pan ◽  
Roberto Padilla-Hernandez

The Wave Hub project will create the world’s largest wave farm off the coast of Cornwall, Southwest England. This study is to investigate wave and tide interactions, in particular their effects on bottom friction and sediment transport at the wave-farm coast. This is an ambitious project research which includes the use of a very complex numerical modelling system. The main question to answer is how waves, tidal currents and winds affect the bottom friction at the Wave Hub site and the near-shore zone, as well as their impact on the sediment transport. Results show that tidal elevation and tidal currents have a significant effect on the wave height predictions, tidal forcing and wind waves have a significant effect on the bed shear-stress, relevant to sediment transport, waves via radiation stresses have an important effect on the long-shore and cross-shore velocity components, particularly during the spring tides, waves can impact on bottom boundary layer and the mixing in the water column. Interactions between waves and tides at the Wave Hub site is important when modelling coastal morphology influenced by wave energy devices, this open-source modelling system tool will help the study of physical impacts on the Wave Hub farm area.


2021 ◽  
Vol 49 (1) ◽  
pp. 93-141
Author(s):  
R. D. Kosyan ◽  
B. V. Divinsky

Due to the development of measuring instruments, a more detailed analysis of the wave field and the field of suspended sediments spatio-temporal characteristics has become possible. Through the efforts of Russian specialists over the past decades: A unique database of observations of the sediment movement in storm situations in different physical and geographical areas of the coastal zone of the Black, Baltic, North, Mediterranean, South China Seas has been collected, supplemented by extensive data of laboratory experiments in the best laboratory in Europe (Hannover, Germany). New experimental material has been obtained to determine the physical features of sediment transport by wave flow. The main mechanisms controlling the amplitude and phase relationships of the concentration fluctuations and discharge of suspended sediment on time scales less than the period of the peak of the wind wave spectrum are considered. The presence of low-frequency fluctuations in sediment concentration with a period of the order of several periods of wind waves and an amplitude several times higher than the average value of concentration is noted. The previously unexplored problem of the wave energy frequency distribution in the spectrum of surface waves influence on the sediment transport has been analyzed. Differences in the response of the washed-out bottom to an external disturbance, represented by irregular surface waves with constant integral characteristics (significant wave height and period of the spectrum peak) and variable wave energy frequency distribution, were revealed. The influence of swell waves on the redistribution of bottom sediments in the sea coastal zone was investigated. It is shown that dividing the wave field into separate components allows a more correct description of the spatiotemporal structure of surface waves, as well as a significant refinement of the bottom sediment transport schemes in the coastal zone. Using the example of the Anapa bay bar, it is shown that situations are possible in which the alongshore flow of bottom sediments is almost completely determined by swell waves. The results of field and laboratory experiments make it possible to determine the directions for further research on the creation of physically based models of sediment transport by waves and wave currents.


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